Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals with High Quality
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
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Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals
Basic Info. of Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals
Model NO.:50ZS-42
Pump Casing Combined:Horizontal Split Pumps
Impeller:Open
Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump
Position of Pump Shaft:Horizontal Pump
Usage:Pump
Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump
Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump
Mounting Height:Suction Centrifugal
Outlet Diameter:25~300mm
Capacity:44~2200m3/H
Head:16~116m
Motor Power:5.5~800kw
Rotation:490/590/740/980/1480rpm
Volume Density (CV):Less Than 30%
Weight Density(Cw):Less Than 60%
Wet Part Material:Most Suitable Wear-Resistant Selected
Export Markets:Global
Additional Info. of Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals
Packing:Wooden Case
Standard:CE
Product Description
Product Specifications of Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals
ZS-Series cantilevered, horizontal, centrifugal slurry pumps.
1.Outlet Diameter: DN=25~300mm
2.Capacity: Q=22~2200m3/h
3.Head: H=16~116m
4.Motor Power: P=5.5~800kw
5.Rotation Speed: n=490/590/740/980/1480rmp
6.Allowable series connection working pressure: 2Mpa
7.Max. Volume desnsity: Cv≤30%
8.Max.Weight density: Cw≤60%
Typical Applications of Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals
1.Mines-feeding (non) ferrous ore pulp, transmitting concentrate pulp and reject pulp
2.Metallurgy--transmitting slimes in aluminum plant and slurry in steel plant.
3.Coals--coal exploitation, coal slurry for washing transportation
4.Electrical plant--clean our and rinse dust, transmit ashes & mortars etc.
5.Construction--transmitting sand slurry like cement mill slime etc.
6.Chemical industry--transmitting chemical abrasive and corrosive slimes
7.Enviroment--stack gas desulfurization,abrasive and corrosive slimes transmit
8.Hydraulic engineering--dredging of pools and waterway,pumping of sand,grit and clays.
FAQ
Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors
A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.
Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?
A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?
A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?
A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.
- Q: I have 2004 Chevy Trailblazer V8 4x4 that the water pump went out on. Does anyone know how long it takes to change it and where it is located? The dealer wants $750.00 to fix it. I really don't want to get riped off.
- Takes a special tool,you can pick one up at Autozone or Checkers for under 50 bucks, or just pull the water pump with the fan still attached and take it in for them to replace it for a small fee when you buy the water pump.
- Q: What is a fair price to have a water pump with belts replaced on a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer?
- Price okorder , Water-pumps and serpentine belts are very easy to change in all rear wheel drive cars
- Q: Water pump is STILL constantly running! Since this past thursday, we did:new check valvenew pressure controlnew foot valve (well)well is not dryprime, air pressure are finewe have above ground pump in the basement. we called a plumber and he could do nothing! we have water and pump/tank and everything seem working fine.But the pump is on and off every 30 seconds - 1 minute. It is so annoying and out of ideas what could be wrong.My husband think it could be the tank and suggested that we replace it. But the plumber didn't say anything about the tank. And it is not too old.Do you think it is the tank and we need to replace it? If so, we will do it on this Sunday morning even though it might cost extra charge! please help!!!
- I had the same problem with this in my home and I fixed it by simply adding air to my pressure tank. where your well line comes in there you should have a water softener and filters and a tank for holding pressure in the lines. shut off the water to the house and start filling the tank with air until you get to around 46 PSI once that's done turn the house water back on. It should take a lot longer for the pump to kick on now. It's pretty easy and I would definitely try to do it yourself first before calling a repair man out. It'll save you a few bucks!
- Q: An engineer is given the job of designing the water system for a tall building. He decides to locate the pumps at ground level and feed the entire building from there. If the top floor of the building is 236 m above ground level, what must the pressure be at pump level?
- 23.6 E5 Pa
- Q: I have a 1969 Chrysler with a new 3 core radiator. It still has the stock water pump and I am wondering if a high volume pump would make it run cooler at higher speeds. It runs hotter when you get off the freeway. I have flushed the system and installed a new thermostat. I also replaced the fan clutch. I am at a loss of why it still runs warmer than the 180* thermostat.
- IT is normal for the engne to WANDER AROUND the 180 degree temp! if the engine does NOT BOIL OVER, then things are FINE! COOLANT boils as you know at about 212 degrees, and it may take the COOLING FAN longer to TURN ON! BASICALLY< if the engine does NOT BOIL OVER< then everything is JUST OKAY! USUALLY chrylsers run on the COOL side GOOD LUCK!!
- Q: My truck has been over heating, and I cant figure out whats going on...the only thing that gets really hot is the upper radiator hose, and the radiator....I just noticed there was a plug unhooked from the water pump, what does that do? Or maybe it could be the thermostat? It just overheats, and when I park it, it wont start half the time, usually I can let it cool off and go, but sometimes it just dies and I have to let it cool off and jump it off.
- Most likely the thermostat. If there is no leak that's most likely. That plug could go to the fan sensor, but I think F-150 fans were belt driven. More likely it goes to the temp guage. If you have an electric fan, check to see if it goes on.
- Q: I think the water pump on my 40 hp mercury outboard 2 stroke is not working, the hole witch usually pours out all the water that was used to cool the engine does not pour any water at all. Is this a problem with the water pump? If not what?
- requires visual inspection of the water pump. actually, checking the telltale outlet first might be preferable.
- Q: does aquarium pump go in water?
- Yes! it would not work otherwise.
- Q: I installed a circulating pump in the far bathroom, since the length to the water heater made for a long wait. It takes 25 seconds for the hot water to arrive, which means 25 seconds of hot water wasted, once the water is shut off.Is it cheaper to, selectively(2 settings on timer) run the pump, or just wait on the hot water? And without the consideration, that time equals money. I imagine the more people that use it, the more efficient it gets.
- If you mean your hot water heater is not heating as fast as it should be, is there anything wrong with the heater itself? Is the temperature setting proper? It sounds like you may mean it is just taking a long time for the hot water to get to the faucet. A lot of things can factor into that: --long pipe runs --colder winter temperature --less insulation of pipes The only things I can think of to reduce waste are: --making sure that all hot water tasks are done at about the same time, e.g., baths one after another, so the water cannot cool off in the pipes between bathers; --water heater timer or install a tankless water heater or two; --not running the water the whole time in the shower, e.g., wet down, turn off water, soap up, rrinse. --keeping buckets to fill with the cooler water, then using that water for plant watering, the first cycle in a clothes washer, or toilet flushing.
- Q: Mechanic really could not locate the origin of the leak but says the water pump needs to be replaced and says it's a lot of work and would cost $350. How can the origin of the leak be determined. He used a pump and raised the pressure on the radiator but that didn't reveal anything either. Please help.
- Water pumps should be replaced every 60K miles and the timing belt should be done at the same time. If your water pump hasn't been replaced in that long or longer I'd blame it having shaft play for your leak. The water pump is in the same area as the belts so it's definitely the most likely culprit.
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Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals with High Quality
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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