• Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals with High Quality System 1
  • Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals with High Quality System 2
  • Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals with High Quality System 3
Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals with High Quality

Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals with High Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals


Basic Info. of Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals


Model NO.:50ZS-42

Pump Casing Combined:Horizontal Split Pumps

Impeller:Open

Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump

Position of Pump Shaft:Horizontal Pump

Usage:Pump

Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump

Mounting Height:Suction Centrifugal

Outlet Diameter:25~300mm

Capacity:44~2200m3/H

Head:16~116m

Motor Power:5.5~800kw

Rotation:490/590/740/980/1480rpm

Volume Density (CV):Less Than 30%

Weight Density(Cw):Less Than 60%

Wet Part Material:Most Suitable Wear-Resistant Selected

Export Markets:Global


Additional Info. of Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals


Packing:Wooden Case

Standard:CE

Product Description


Product Specifications of Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals

ZS-Series cantilevered, horizontal, centrifugal slurry pumps.

1.Outlet Diameter: DN=25~300mm

2.Capacity: Q=22~2200m3/h

3.Head: H=16~116m

4.Motor Power: P=5.5~800kw

5.Rotation Speed: n=490/590/740/980/1480rmp

6.Allowable series connection working pressure: 2Mpa

7.Max. Volume desnsity: Cv≤30%

8.Max.Weight density: Cw≤60%


Typical Applications of Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals

1.Mines-feeding (non) ferrous ore pulp, transmitting concentrate pulp and reject pulp

2.Metallurgy--transmitting slimes in aluminum plant and slurry in steel plant.

3.Coals--coal exploitation, coal slurry for washing transportation

4.Electrical plant--clean our and rinse dust, transmit ashes & mortars etc.

5.Construction--transmitting sand slurry like cement mill slime etc.

6.Chemical industry--transmitting chemical abrasive and corrosive slimes

7.Enviroment--stack gas desulfurization,abrasive and corrosive slimes transmit

8.Hydraulic engineering--dredging of pools and waterway,pumping of sand,grit and clays.


FAQ

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.


Heavy Duty Processing Slurry Pump for Minerals with High Quality

Q: 2 different pulleys are in the way of the 2 remaining long bolts. at each end of the pump. tensioner did not need to be moved as belt is already off. Motor mount is 1/2 way removed and motor has dropped slightly gt; Am reading a jack must be placed under motor with wood via oil pan ( am hoping no other damage was done) Am told there is a certain device available to remove the pulleys? ... -Would appreciate anyone's info and advice on the remaining steps to this procedure on this make and model engine. as I have come into it obviously with it having begun the wrong way!! Thanks!!
to get the water pump out you need to remove the water pump pulley first it has four 10 mm bolts (I have seem them with 8 mm bolt with a large shoulder on them too ) you can break the bolts loose one of 2 ways 1) put a long screwdriver between the two of the bolt to hold the pulley in place while u break one loose then spin the pulley around rinse and repeat once there all loose u can turn them out by hand and pull off the pulley some time u have to give the pully a little tap to come off you shouldn't need to take off the motor mount unless u plan on chaging the serpintine belt ? be sure once you get the pump off you clean the block side of the surface really good with a scraper make sure u get all the old gasket off the block side so it will seal right when u install the new pump I also recommend a tube of ultra black rtv sealant and only black I have used blue silicone before on many occasion and it has failed me I only use black rtv plus it makes it a lot easier if you have to replace the pump in the future as it come off a little easyier hope this helps a little good luck may the car gods be with you also I would recommend doing a back flush with warm or hot water and using the old school green antifreeze either full or 50/50 mix Dexcool orange has a very well know issue of eating gaskets and putting engine into a vapor lock very costly to fix
Q: I'm trying to make water pump with solar energy. I need to have good water pump. Could you find good websites to find DC 12v water pump, or is there any place that I can get it?
Most accessories for boats are pricey, Daniel - but not all.
Q: Hello, i have a 1987 volkswagen cabriolet that i purchased earlier this year. So far its been a pain in the butt. Recently i noticed it overheats real quick, but it didnt use to. then i noticed the coolant/antifreeze was being used up like no other! I discovered, after being parked at work, that it was leaking.it leaks basically anything i put in there now!! it leaks from the water pump housing,.,.... at least thats what the internet said it was.. its leaking from the end of the hose that connects to the engine... (the hose that comes from the coolant reservoir.)What do i do? I dont feel any cracks? does this part crack? is it an o-ring or somehting? I am really absolutely NOTHING ABOUT CARS. Please help!!
You say it has been below freezing for a while. *IF* it has been very cold and *IF* your pipes are not below the frost lines in your area, then the pipe could be frozen. That would cause the pump to likely trip out as it would over-work while trying to push water through ice (not easily done!) The good news is if the pipe is frozen, it is most likely frozen near the point where the water goes into or out of the ground. If you have access to 110 power in both of those areas, (or can get it there by some safe means) try this. Take a heating pad (like you use for sore backs/ knees) and wrap it around the pipe right at the point where it transitions into the ground. Tie it in place with string or yarn and turn it on at it's highest setting. After about an hour try turning on the pump. Still trip? Give it another hour. Still trip? Do the other end. Believe me this works surprisingly well, and once you get the water flowing, even just a little bit, the rest will melt quickly. Good Luck. James
Q: need to know how to change water pump of my plymouth voyager its a 96 and motor is a 4.
Ummm I kind of agree and disagree with C-tech. the 96 Voyager came in one of 3 four cylinder engines, 2.2.L 2.5L or , 2.5L turbo, I think the 2.6L was discontinued in the late 80's or around 91. And the water pump is driven externally, Just look under the alternator and you will see it. So remove the alt, remove the bracket then unbolt the whole pump/pump housing assy, then unbolt the housing from the pump. Clean the surface where the o-ring seals the housing to the block, Run a bead of silicone on the cleaned housing to pump surface, bolt together (dont glob on the glue) Install the housing to the block with a new o-ring, and finish the assy.And to even make sure you have a 2.2 or 2.5 right where the thermostat goes, the head has a housing cast on the head there is a galley plug. Slightly tighten then remove the plug, pour in the coolant ( in the radiator)water mix (50-50) install plug then run engine, what for fan to kick in, then wait for fan to shut off, set your level in the reservoir and BAMM your done. And where I do agree with C is when MBZ owned Chrysler and had the 2.4 installed, somewhere in the 00, but I dont know, I quite Chrysler in 99 And if its a 2.6 get a mechanic to do it
Q: We are leasing land from a friend to put horses on. We're in the process of building a barn. We don't want to run water out there because its too much trouble for the meter and everything, but someone said to get a water pump and pump the water from the pond and filter it and use it. I have no idea what all we need or what kind of pump to get. Helpp!
One of our neighbors uses water from a small stream to water his garden and lawn. He uses a pump very similar to the self priming pumps used for pools and hot tubs. You can install a filter on the discharge and provide all the water you might need. Just be sure the filter is really more like a strainger than a true filter. A true filter will plug up too often to be practical.
Q: I could get a 1994 Camaro, v6, no rust, automatic, excellent condition for $1200. THe ony thing is that it needs a water pump. Is it worth the buy? How much other damage could have been done with the water pump damaged? and how hard is it to replace the water pump?
I am fairly SURE that car is going to have the 3.4L V-6 in it. The seller may be telling you that it needs a water pump, but it is FAR FAR more likely that it has a blown head gasket($$$). It it didn't start overheating because of that, it is the current reality if it has been overheated. Those engines are INFAMOUS for blowing head gaskets do to the cylinder heads on them. I would have him put the water pump on it. If the car then runs fine, give him the additional cost for the pump.
Q: I just put a new water pump in my jeep and after I put it in I ran it and it seemed to have a small leak while it was running it seems like it was coming from the crank which is under the water pump so it might be a leak coming from the bottom of the pump. When I turn the car off it is no longer a leak its more like pouring water out. What do you think it can be? I put a gasket and the blue silicone gasket sealant all around it and on it before I put it in so I have no idea. Thank you for the help.
The blue silicone has caused a hole in the water pump. Get it fixed now or the blue silicone will leak onto your engine causing more damage.
Q: 1997 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2 engine. In the past 2 days I noticed that my temp gauge was reading a little higher than usual but not in the danger range. I checked and nedded to add coolant. Last night it started making a chattering or maybe klunking sound. As far as I could tell it was coming from the water pump but it stopped before I could get out of the car and look to see. Now the coolant is low again. Are these signs of the water pump being bad or could it be something else?
It is possible your water pump is worn out, yes...but it could be other things too. I would change the thermostat first, being a much lower cost. If the thermostat is sticking shut, or not opening right at all, it can prevent the coolant from circulating right. That lets the whole engine heat up and coolant boil. That may be the sound you hear, normally called a water hammer... If you take it to the shop, which you should do now, ask them to check the thermostat and water pump, to be certain of the problem... I hope it is just the thermostat that is causing this, but check it good...
Q: Whats the difference between a faulty water pump and head gasket? The coolant reservoir has a quot;bubblingeffect when the car is running. I just changed the radiator and filled it. Most of whats in the radiator is water honestly. The car sounds a little rough and sputtery like a head gasket. The spark plugs are dry and I took the cover off and nothing looked watery or moisturous. I also had to change the head and head gasket a month ago. The head gasket didn't have any damage to it so I assumed the head was bad. I used a new head gasket also. Anything else I can check? The car is a 91 corolla.
properly in case you place the water pump in 3 weeks in the past and you probably did no longer have a leak until final nighttime i would not suspect the pump.i'd take it to a radiator save and characteristic them tension try your gadget to be sure in case you have a leak and probably inform you the place that's.I in basic terms have been given completed the pinnacle gasket situation on our ninety 3 ranger with the 4.0 engine and the two heads have been leaking anti-freeze.good success to you.
Q: After the pump has the control box, but also the power distribution box, the control box and the distribution box is not the same box?
This look at the specific situation, the water pump circuit is divided into power, power and control signal two parts,They can be placed in a larger cabinet, which is convenient for future inspection and repair.There is power and signal is separated from the general distribution box and put some air contactors, frequency converter etc.,There are some buttons, lights, etc. in the control box.

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