• Corrosion Resisting Slurry Pump with High Quality System 1
  • Corrosion Resisting Slurry Pump with High Quality System 2
Corrosion Resisting Slurry Pump with High Quality

Corrosion Resisting Slurry Pump with High Quality

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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Basic Info

  • Working Pressure: High Pressure Pump

  • Position of Pump Shaft: Horizontal Pump

  • Impeller Number: Single-Stage Pump

  • Influent Type of Impeller: Single Suction Pump

  • Export Markets: Global

Product Description

AH/AHR Series Horizontal Centrifugal Slurry Pump
1. Brief
LWA series slurry pump offers a wide range of seal and rubber (wear-resistant metal) liner configurations allowing the pump to be tailored to the customer's specific application.
2. Applications
ZTNM series horizontal and cantilever centrifugal slurry pumps are used widely throughout the beneficiation section of the mining industry. ZTNM slurry pumps are also widely used for the disposal of ash from power plants the manufacture of fertilizers, and the long distance transportation of coal and minerals.
3. Features
(1)Bearing assembly--A large diameter shaft with short overhang minimizes deflection and contributes to long bearing life.
(2)Liners -- Easily replaceable liners are bolted, not glued, to the casing for positive attachment and ease of maintenance. Hard metal liners are completely interchangeable with pressure molded elastomers.

Capacity (m³ )  Head (m)  Speed (r/min)  Inlet (mm)  Outlet (mm)
  3.6-1209  5-99.4  350-3800  38-254  25-203

 

Q: When I turn on my pump for the pool water-fountain it will run for 30 seconds or 4 minutes or anywhere in between then it just shuts off. I push the remote on button on again and it runs for a few seconds. Sometimes it will run for a while longer but mostly short durations. Thanks in advance for your help.
For it to cycle it fairly is maximum possibly a overheat thermostat change someplace on the motor. A fuse would not reset itself. Are you particular the pump is circulating water. If water isn't flowing and motor is on motor can particularly overheat. have you ever tried priming the pump; the pump can no longer artwork if there is air in the pump or pump intake line (pour water down the pump to do away with air)
Q: Water pumps are always pumping water, what's the matter?
Cause analysis of water pump without waterThere is air in the inlet pipe and pump body(1) before the water pump is started, the water is not filled enough. Sometimes it seems that the water has been discharged from the vent hole, but the pump shaft is not rotated. The air is completely discharged, resulting in a small amount of air remaining in the inlet pipe or pump body.(2) in contact with the water pump inlet of the horizontal application of reverse flow direction, fell more than 0.5% slope, connect one end of the highest import pumps, do not completely level. If the upward tilt, the intake pipe will retain air, reducing the water pipes and pumps in the vacuum, water absorption.(3) pump packing has been used for long-term wear or packing pressed too loose, discharge gap caused by the large amounts of water from filling with the shaft sleeve, the external air gap into the pump from the inside, affected the water.(4) because of the long latent water and the corrosion of the pipe wall, the water inlet of the water inlet is constantly dropping. When the holes appear above the water, the air enters the water inlet pipe from the hole.(5) there is a crack at the bend of the inlet pipe, and there is a small gap between the inlet pipe and the water pump, which may cause the air to enter the inlet pipe.
Q: i changed my fuel pump and now my car wont turn over....any help? maybe starter?
From the info you give, I would have to say, MAYBE!
Q: no water is running my deep well pump kicks on every 15 min. it runs for 1-2 min when it kicks off then a noise like someone threw a ball against the house. can you help
check the back flow preventor sound like it might have trash and or build up casing it to stay in the closed position and when your pump turn off you hear that thud like sound due to the pump having to be slammed it reverse do to pressure build up.
Q: My water pump is starting to leak. The shops are quoting $250- $300 to replace but I can buy a water pump at the auto parts store and install myself for less than $100 but I don't know what all is involved with this repair or if I should try (my only experience with car repair up to now is recently replacing the alternator). If anyone has done this please let me know what you think. thanks
if you have the right tools it not to hard make sure the old gasket is clean off the engine before installing the new pump use a light coat of gasket sealer with it
Q: 2004 chevy impala 3.4 v6 The small leak is right behind the pulley of the water pump. Car is not overheating .the leak is only for a little while then it stops . water pump seems to be working fine but the leak ,what could it be ?
Unfortunately, this quite often requires a new pump. It can be feasible (however not going) that the gasket is leaking - extra probably, the seal around the pulley shaft is the hindrance. Substitute is the one choice. Almost always, that is done while because the timing belt - has this been executed yet? If it was once executed before you obtained the car, its viable they tried to save lots of a few bucks via skipping the water pump. This is in most cases a foul move - the pump as a rule wears out at in regards to the same time - but it's cheaper, if they have been planning on getting rid of the car quickly. And when you consider that one quite often needs to be removed to access the other...You get the thought. Excellent success!
Q: I have a 1990 GMC K1500 Sierra and about 1 week ago I went to check the anti-freeze level. I noticed it was a tiny bit down. So I look down at the lower radiator hose and it had a slow drip. So the next day I changed the anti-freeze, New thermostat, and a New lower radiator hose. So I thought it was fine but yesterday I went to go check the anti-freeze and the level was down. I look at the lower radiator hose and it has a slow drip again. The hose I replace was Brand New. Could this be a water pump? I did notice a tiny bit of anti-freeze on the water pump. Or what could this be or do I have to change the hose again?
If the water pump is leaking, there should be a trail of coolant going down the engine. Gotta find where the leak is coming from to determine what to replace. Upper hose, clamps, radiator? Sometimes ya gotta hose off all the antifreeze, let it dry, then look. Good luck.
Q: Hi,My problem is of this automatic water pump ,it is disrupt always I don't no why..I also want to knew what is the function of the pressure air tank??? The picture is here:
WHAT does it is disrupt always really MEAN?? OK, that said... pumps such as this work to maintain a pressure with two set points even though the regulator only has one indicated.. The lower set point which as pressure drops, the pump turns on, and the upper set point where when the pressure rises to that point, the pump shuts off. When the pressure drops to the lower set point, it triggers the pump to run. When the pressure rises to the upper set point, the pump turns off. If the set point is 50 pounds, it may turn on at 47 and off at 53, or the window could be smaller and on at 49 and off at 51. The air bladder works as a shock absorber, just as the shocks work in your car to smooth the ride. When the pump turns ON there is a pressure pulse that without the air space, would promptly turn the pump off again. This is called short cycling and will cause your pump to on-off-on-off-on-off rapidly. The solution is to refill the air bladder. People with well pumps instead of city water have this problem frequently as the air bladder loses the bubble and does not work as a spring or shock absorber. I have city water NOW, but I used to use a well (which is still operational if I choose to use it) and I experienced pump short cycling the very first year I bought the house. The thing IS, I was ignorant. I missed the thing about a well and a septic tank that also uses a pump to an above ground drain field. YES. I was STUPID because I had NOT paid attention. NOW, years later, I have learned, the HARD way mind you, how these sanitary systems WORK in real life in RURAL America....
Q: In the past 9 months, Ive went through 6 or 7 gallons of antifreeze, I was told this was not normal. Ive had my coolant tank flushed 4 times this year, only to be told thats not normal and one lasts a few years. Now that its colder outside my car takes a while to run hot of course, but during the summer it ran hot in about 15 minutes tops. I got a brand new coolant tank before I got another flush because I did have a leak, but that did not combat the problem. I had my radiator looked at and I was told thats fine. So im thinking either a cracked head gasket or a bad water pump...help please. im getting tired of putting money into this car only for the same stuff to keep happening.
if it is a head gasket your oil will have water in it, my guess is a water pump or hoses, check the oil first to see if there is water, then have the water pump checked, then hoses, process of elimination works the best 99% of the time
Q: Work done in water pumping?Water is to be brought from a well 60 meters bellow ground level to a tower 10 meters high, once there the water falls freely on a 5000 liter tank. A submerged pump 10 meters under water level and a two inch diameter pipe is to be used. What is the work done by the pump when 2000 liters have been served to the tank; what is the power of a pump selected to do this work in 20 minutes.
Power_W = (Mass_kg * Gravity_m/s/s * Height_m) / time_s Where: Mass kg is 1kg/l of 2000 liters Gravity is 9.81m/s/s Head is 60m + 10m (height). The suction head is ignored because the pump is submerged. In practice there is some suction head due to intake restrictions like pipes, check valves, strainers. The time is 20 minutes in seconds. The work is the energy used in the time allocated, which is: power * time in seconds, which is watt seconds = joules. Not needed here as it is in the formula above. Power is the rate of doing work. The depth below water is not really relevant except for pipe losses which increase the head slightly. The flow is 2000 liters/20 minutes = 100 l/min. This can be used with the head of 70m to determine the pipe restriction, which amounts to a pressure drop representing extra head added. It will indicate whether the pipe is too small (excessive head added) or whether the pipe is overkill (no head added). You can find on line calculators for this, e.g. search pipe resistance flow on line calculator. I am guessing a 2 inch pipe has little loss at this flow. This is the so called water power. It is the output power of the pump. The pump may only be 50% or so efficient, so the mechanical power delivered by the motor needs to be greater by this ratio. The electrical input power to the motor is greater again to allow for motor efficiency. This might be 60-90%. In practice the efficiency of pump and motor are determined from user manual or specification of the actual devices with the actual loads (head and flow).

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