Single Stage Single Suction Chemical Cantilever Centrifugal Pump

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General Description

The single-stage, single-suction chemical cantilever centrifugal pump, it is instead of type F anti-corrosive centrifugal pump, it is a saving energy products, it widely used in the field of chemical engineering, petroleum, metallurgy paper-making, food, medicine, fiber, etc., it is suitable for delivery corrosive medium or the medium which are not permitted to contaminate, the inlet pressure is ≤0.3MPa, the medium temperature is 20℃ to 105℃, it can deliver more higher temperature medium by cooling unit.

Performance Range(design point)

Flow:6.3~400m3/h

Head H :5m~125m.

Structure
The pump is single-stage single-suction overhanging centrifugal pump. The pump is back pull-out type. It is unnecessary to disturb the intel piping, outlet piping and pump casing, the impeller can be dismantled for maintenance.
The shaft seal adopts packing seal or mechanical seal according to customers ‘requirements. The pump uses rolling bearings which get lubricated with dilute oil.

Rotation direction
The rotating of the pump rotor is clockwise looking from the motor to the pump.

Material of main parts
The medium-contacting parts are made of alloy stainless steel, material No.ZG1Cr18Ni9 and ZGCr18Ni12Mo2Ti,etc.

Parts range
Pump, Motor, common bedplate, coupling, check value and sluice valve.

Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?: I would replace the whole unit,for one if it was to go bad you are going to have water everywhere,and also the new one will be smaller and more energy effecient.

Q: please answer my below question whether it is possible or not.can i get 15,00,000 lit/day amount of water by using 10hp water pump at the distance of 5m total head?: This Site Might Help You. RE: what is the discharge amount of 10hp water pump? please answer my below question whether it is possible or not. can i get 15,00,000 lit/day amount of water by using 10hp water pump at the distance of 5m total head?

Q: 1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :): When all these pumps were replaced, were they new pumps or remanufactured pumps? It makes a difference in the quality and longevity. Spring for the new pump, preferably from Ford. The impeller problem was on the 2.5 liter V6 Contour, they are plastic and tend to scatter under load. As far as the gauge goes, it is normal on the four cylinder Contour for the hand to be between the M and the L in normal on the gauge. All of the 4 cylinder Contours are like this and the vehicle is not overheating. There is a TSB from Ford concerning the gauge, the TSB number is 98-21-3, the dealer can pull it up and let you look at it.

Q: Do it yourself steps: The okorder You don't want to leave anything out and certainly don't want to trust a stranger on Yahoo Answers! Good luck!

Q: I have a 73 dodge charger 400 cubic inch engine, The water pump broke (causing the fan to chew into the radiator) I replaced the water pump and fan (will be replacing the radiator this week) But the problem I am encountering is the belt for the water pump is lose, How do I go about tightening this?: Well without seeing the problem I would say you either didn't put everything back or like the other guy answered you loosen usually the bolts to the alternator or power steering pump and use a pry bar to tighten everything up.

Q: I want to build a portable, working steam room display for trade shows. I need to feed water from a storage tank to a steam generator when it's called for. How can I do this? Is there a type of water pump that would work for this?: I would buy a little aquarium filter pump to feed the steam system.You can regulate it with a little valve in the tubing and use any kind of tub as a reservoir for the water depending on the amount you need to create the steam.

Q: Im considering installing an electric water pump in my car and i dont know much about electric water pumps yet so if you could tolerate a couple of dumb questions....? are electric water pumps reliable enough to be put into a daily driver (i just used the meziere name as an example, its the only name i am familiar with in electric water pumps)? i realise what the engine is basically done if the water pump goes.... could a change this small ever show up on either mpg or hp readings for a 200hp v6? finally, if the electric water pump just isnt worth the reliability risk, would a water pump underdrive pully do (almost) the same job of freeing work from the engine without putting the motor in harms way? thanks!: I personally would not use an electric water pump on a street car. But ive seen them last pretty long on some cars. You can underdrive the pump but Im pretty sure the HP benefit of the electric pump is better. Meziere makes good quality electric pumps. If your going to go electric, go with Meziere.

Q: guys i have a mini-water pump.....i wanna pump kerosene instead of water,to make a mini stove,on my own..my doubt is ...if the water pump is used to pump kerosene,will the kerosene ignite inside the pump itself or will cause any problem..i just want the pump to pump kerosene....will it ignite inside of the pump,because the pump runs on electricity....can u clear my doubt: Is the motor of the pump built-in so that the pumped fluid flows through the motor also? If the answer to the question is yes then do not use the pump for pumping kerosene. However, if the pumped liquid does not come in contact with motor then you can use the pump for pumping kerosene. But ensure that the pump shaft seal is of mechanical type (so that kerosene does not leak from the shaft sealing area) with parts (specially any rubber parts) compatible with hydrocarbons (use viton rubber parts instead of EPDM)

Q: I have a 1978 El Camino V8 305. My power steering has been going out on me, and since then my belt has been squeaking usually when it first starts up. This morning when I got to work, smoke was bellowing from under my hood. Im trying to troubleshoot. Is it possible that my power steering pump damaged the belt enough that the water pump went out?: If the power steering pump was dragging, you probably lost the belt, so the water pump was not working and the engine overheated. Water pump is probably OK. Replace the belt and fix or replace the power steering pump.

Q: I bought a salt water filter system for my inflatable pool(14' X 40deep) and filled it up with 80 pounds of salt as the directions call for. Unfortunately Intex did not design the pump correctly and it leaks.There is supposed to be some copper ion exchange with the water as it goes through the system. I returned the salt water system. Since salt is a natural bacterial fighter by itself, can I just add salt once in a while and keep the water salty and use the filter pump that came with the pool? You never see lakewater(which is a little salty) with algae in it unless it is stagnant. With a filter pump this would not happen as the water is being filtered frequently.: I don't think you or others really understand a salt water chlorination unit. The salt is added to the pool water through water circulation of the pool water the ION unit water passes past these two electrodes which in turn give off a chlorine gas which becomes the chlorine requirements for the pool On the ioniser is a dial that is set to a required setting to do with the volume of certain sized swimming pools. Even though one has this unit connected to their pool, they still have to add chlorine to their pool of the chlorine level isn't enough. This can be done in various methods, via a floating skimmer or have pellets put in hair lint pot or scattered over the pool surface, once dissolved in a bucket of warm water. Just by leaving the salt in the water as you suggest won't really do much other than help keep the water salty! This is my opinion I'll not get into a wage or wars over who is right who is wrong! Your trying to get others on your side, because you made the wrong choice purchased a salty pool chlorinator pump your dis- satisfied with your choice I am not going to agree or disagree with your statement other that to say your putting your families health at risk being a skin flint! So you think your doing the right thing, by putting your families health at risk for the sake of a few lousy dollars. Do it properly have a professional to come connect it all up for youin a proper manner!! Surely your families health means a lot more to you than risking a few lousy bucks on the proper unit! Cheers!!

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