Single Stage Single Suction Chemical Cantilever Centrifugal Pump

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General Description

The single-stage, single-suction chemical cantilever centrifugal pump, it is instead of type F anti-corrosive centrifugal pump, it is a saving energy products, it widely used in the field of chemical engineering, petroleum, metallurgy paper-making, food, medicine, fiber, etc., it is suitable for delivery corrosive medium or the medium which are not permitted to contaminate, the inlet pressure is ≤0.3MPa, the medium temperature is 20℃ to 105℃, it can deliver more higher temperature medium by cooling unit.

Performance Range(design point)

Flow:6.3~400m3/h

Head H :5m~125m.

Structure
The pump is single-stage single-suction overhanging centrifugal pump. The pump is back pull-out type. It is unnecessary to disturb the intel piping, outlet piping and pump casing, the impeller can be dismantled for maintenance.
The shaft seal adopts packing seal or mechanical seal according to customers ‘requirements. The pump uses rolling bearings which get lubricated with dilute oil.

Rotation direction
The rotating of the pump rotor is clockwise looking from the motor to the pump.

Material of main parts
The medium-contacting parts are made of alloy stainless steel, material No.ZG1Cr18Ni9 and ZGCr18Ni12Mo2Ti,etc.

Parts range
Pump, Motor, common bedplate, coupling, check value and sluice valve.

Q: what is NPSH for the water pump. Can you anyone explain in details? How can it calculate?: NPSH stands for Net Positive Suction Head. It usually refers to the amount of pressure needed at the inlet of the pump for the pump to work properly. If there is insufficient pressure pushing the fluid into the pump, and the pressure at the inlet is lower than the NPSH requirement, then the pressure will be so low in the sucking center of the pump that the fluid will boil (this is called cavitation). It usually makes a racket, reduces pump performance, and erodes away the pump. To make sure this doesn't happen you have to have enough head (as in some level in the tank feeding the pump) and low pressure drop on the way to the pump (meaning big enough lines, no obstructions, and not too many bends). Some pumps are designed for very low npsh requirements. These pumps can suck water from some depth without cavitating. No pump can suck room temperature water from fore than about 25 feet below the pump, because the vacuum needed to lift the water 25 feet or so is close to the vacuum needed to boil water at room temperature. You cannot easily calculate the npsh a pump needs. This is a function of the design and geometry of the pump. You can calculate the delivered npsh by figuring the pressure of the liquid in the feed tank (don't forget atmospheric pressure) and subtracting the pressure loss due to friction in the piping between feed tank and pump. This loss will be a function of flow rate. Faster flow, more frictional pressure loss.

Q: i have the power max xp652 water pump, 2 inch inlet and outlet, 6.5 horsepower, and says it can reach 100 psi. now i bought the pump so i can use it for my mobile detailing business, the problem is im barely getting 40 psi out the end and its not very much water to wash a car with. Im using a two inch suction hose to get it in, then right after the outlet i reduced it down to 3/4 inch into a 50 ft. garden hose. this only got me 40 psi and the nozzle was basically just spitting it out, so i tried using 50 ft. of 1/4 inch pressure washer hose and it didnt change anything still 40 psi. so please if there is any way i can up the psi, please tell me any ideas are good. i dont know if its just because i reduced it down too quick or if my suction hose is too big. someone who is into hydraulics please help.: I don't know anything about the xp652 , but if this pump goes in a well you also need a pressure tank and then a preassure switch , the pump starts it you the get a tank , if your tank has a bladder it will probably be preset at 30 psi but thats not where you get your pressure the switch has two little screws one will set how hard she blasts ( thats where your pump comes in) the other one sets how low your pressure gets before the pump turns on again , But if the xp652 is an outside system , ( outside of your regular weter pumping system then , Never mind .

Q: Does anyone know or can show me a picture of the location of the water pump in the '97 Totota avalon please? I'm trying to replace mine.Please and Thank you :): Front of engine block, behind fan and driven usually by the crankshaft.

Q: my car ran hot a few times, its a 2006 chevy impala LS with about 50k miles.I do alot of driving but never had a problem until now. I took it to get an oil change and they said that I need a new water pump. I really dont know what that means but im afraid to drive my car until i get a new pump. i called around a few auto places and no one has the part. I called the chevy dealer and they said part and labor is $600. any suggestions of other places i can check for the part? can i still drive my car in the mean time? is it safe?are water pumps usually that expensive?: Actually a re-manufactured water pump costs less than $70.00 at any auto parts store. Any private mechanic will change it for a lot less than $600.00. If you don't have a large water pump weep hole leak with the associated loss of coolant do the following: For the time being you can cheat your cooling system's intimate standard 16 PSI (pounds per square inch) by going to Carquest and buying a 4 - 8 lb. radiator pressure cap. Change the cap when the motor and cooling system is stone cold. After installing it try not using your car's air conditioning system. It will raise the systems heat slightly. It's the pressure in the cooling system that causes a higher leak rate of the water pump. Keep an eye on the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank. Get the water pump taken care of before the snow flies!

Q: I've searched the net but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for and hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction! Maybe I'm not looking in the right place....or do I have to fabricate my own? I'm up for the challenge!1) Trying to source a water pump that I'm going to power by HAND or a BICYCLE. 2) My choice of pump to give a continuous stream of water (very important) is a rotary (centrifugal) type or is there something else capable of a continuous output?3) This will NOT BE USED for potable water. SPECS:a) lightweight but durable, the smaller, the better. b) low RPM, high volume output and capable of producing/handling pressure. c) self-primingd) able to handle some small particulates in the water as I am using rain water. (from outside, NOT filtered, so the following may be present: bugs, dust, etc...) Thank you, in advance, for your help and would be nice to thank the individual(s) for a unique answer to my request at a later date so let me know you're preferred method of contact!: There are very small rotary water pumps designed to be driven with hand-held electric drills. These pumps may be purchased in some hardware stores or farm supply stores. One could be adapted to a bicycle- type drive. Small pumps have about a 50% efficiency so you would need to produce sustained muscle power applied at around 150-200 watts to achieve 75 -100 watts of effective hydraulics. Applied watts = (GPM) (PSI) / 1.277 million (eff.) Where eff. is as a decimal. Edit : A 3/8 drill will pull about 280 watts. I can do 200 watts on an exercise bike, but not for long. I am a 79 heart patient, so you can probably do better..

Q: i mean, the water that runs through the ground from rain and ends up in the pit in the basement,is it clean to drink in an emergency? live close to a public road where they salt for snow and ice, so do you suppose that is in the water?: take a sample to you local plumber supply shop they will send it off to be tested they will know 4 sure................

Q: Hoping that someone may read this.Broke down yesterday after re-filling coolant when car re-heated and mechanic who rescued us advised that the water pump is leaking and requires replacement.Our local garage have advised that to change the water pump also requires a new camber (?) kit and including both and 3.5 hours labour their total quote is ?315.08.This sounds crazy for changing a water pump - can anyone shed any light and reckon that they may be taking the mickey?Am not technical so wouldn't attempt to do work myself, however if we go back to garage, or to others, I'd like to know exactly what work needs doing.Thanks!: well you will need a new pump, but im wondering why they are advising you to get a camber kit. camber kits are for the slant of how your wheels touch the ground i.e When the bottom of the tire is more inwards and the top is out, that is referred to as positive camber. Positive camber wears the outside of the tires at a rapid rate. Positive camber is generally the result of a bad alignment or wearing ball joint. A camber kit is not usually required for this because replacing the faulty part and realignment generally pulls everything into spec. One time a camber kit will be needed for positive camber is when the vehicles ride height is raised. When it is raised, it puts stress on the top ball joint because the wheels lifting motion conflicts with the ball joint position therefore pushing it to the side. With an adjustable camber kit, this is corrected by sliding the ball joint back inwards, towards the motor, to bring the wheel back into spec. they will of needed to look underneath your car to diagnose the problem. but i would take it to another garage to get them to diagnose the problem. i hope this helps man.

Q: I moved into a house on a rural property in January, and we live off tank water and have a Grunfos PT18 pumping all our water into the house.The problem is, not all the time, but alot of the time my pump stays on after having a shower, the motor keeps running and restarting continuously as if it is desperately trying to pump more water through, until I go underneath my house and literally turn it off at the powerpoint, wait for a bit then turn it back on. I am scared if I leave the motor keep going like that it will burn my pump out. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can fix this problem, or why it may be doing this, or is something causing it?Thankyou in advance, from someone who has next to no knowledge about pumps!!: Sounds like it's waterlogged. That's what it's called when the water and the air in the resevoir tank mix, and the volume of air gets so small as to not be able to provide any decent compression with which to push water through the system. At that point, any time you open a fixture, the pressure drops enough to turn on the pump, and when you turn off the pump, if it's just right, it will turn off and then back on, then off, then on, back and forth till you shut it off and it can set and stabilize, till you need water again. The solution is to reintroduce a sizeable amount of air back into the top of the tank. If it's an older tank, without a bladder, (identified by the small bulge around the center of the tank and either a blue or rust color), then the best way is to simply drain the tank and restart the system. That way it will trap all the air in the top of the tank and you'll have enough pressurized air to push a gallon or two of water out, before the pump needs to kick on again. If it's the bladder type, with the bulge, then the bladder has blown and you're, in effect, working with a standard resevoir tank now, except that it will have an air valve in the top like a bicycle tire, so you can pressurize it with an air tank. If so, open some fixtures, start pressurizing the top of the tank and blow all the water out of the system. Once it's dry, put about 20 lbs. of pressure in the tank and start up the pump. You should be good to go.

Q: 90kw pump star delta start, in the end to use the circuit breaker, AC contactor (Star contactor, angle contactor), what kind of thermal relay?: The star delta circuit you give belongs to the international standard starting mode, different from the old gb. The first said (the old national standard, is actually the domestic elders step-down manner, they are the main contactor) after shunt implementation of star triangle, so there will be a larger contactor, down economic calculation.And the new international standard (you give the circuit diagram) can be seen that the air switch to select the motor current to meet the given amount of surplus, 90kw motor rated current 175A, so choose 225A air switch can be. 1KM 2KM is the main operation of contactors, contactor, they each pay half the current line in triangle, so choose 110A (like never seen 100A) current, 3KM star, because of short-time current will not cause damage to the contact, a little lower 80A is not affected. Heat meter: if you don't use a transformer, you can choose JR36---160A.Some friends may feel small, in fact as long as you pay attention, you will find a lot of electrical equipment factory are doing this standard. In this way, both cost savings and service requirements are met.

Q: the question i have is can the pump be turning and not leaking but not pump water??? i know the olden days (the good ole days) as long as the impeller was turning it would pump water! leaking seal is when it went bad,or locked up..like a box fan blade as long as it is turning its moving air...: some vehicles could have a loud water pump without extra issues. often times a defective water pump might reason problems with the cylinder head if the engine overheats. So examine right here: one million. is there steam in the exhaust smoke? 2. Do drops of water look on the tip of the exhaust? the two between the above can mean a warped cylinder head or blown gasket. if it is so, do no longer purchase. in case you have any concerns, get the motor vehicle regarded at by a mechanic.

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