• Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 1
  • Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 2
  • Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 3
Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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1)  Product outline
WQ series submersible sewage pump absorbs the advantages with the same products made abroad and at home, holds a comprehensive optimized design on its hydraulic model, mechanical structure,sealing, cooling, protection, control etc. points, features a good performance in discharging solids and in the prevention of fiber wrapping, high efficiency and energy-saving, strong reliability and, equipped with a specially developed electric control cabinet, not only the auto-control can be realized but also the motor can be made sure to work safely and reliably.Available with various types of installation to simplify the pump station and save the investment.
WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for the municipal works, buildings, industrial sewage and sewage treatment to discharge the sewage, waste water and rainwater containing solids and long fibers.
2)  Characteristic and advantage
1. Most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture below 400 come as a bi-runner impeller and few of them is a multi-blade centrifugal impeller. While most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture 400 and above come as a mixed flow impeller and few of them is a bi-runner impeller. The spacious pump casing runner lets the solids easily passing and the fibers uneasily wrapping so that it is most suitable for discharging sewage and dirt.
2. Two independent single end-face mechanical seals are in-series mounted, with the installation mode as the internal installation mode, and, compared with the external installation mode, the medium is more uneasy to leak and also its sealing friction pair are easier lubricated by the oil in the oil chamber. A special spiral slot or a small seam is used to resist the solid
grains to be deposited on the mechanical seal by the pump to make sure of its stable work. The unique mechanical seal layout mode and bearing combination makes the suspension arm of the shaft short, a heavy rigidity and a small jump, more benefit for reducing the leak from the mechanical seal and extending the life of it.
3. The motor of a protective grade IPX8 works in submerged mode and holds the best cooling effect. The grade F insulation makes the winding bearable to a higher temperature and, compared with common motors, more durable.
4. The perfect combination of the special electric control cabinet, the liquid level floating-ball switch and the protective components carries out the automatic monitor and alarm for
water leak and winding overheat, the protections at shortcircuit, overload, lack-of-phase and voltage-lost cut-off, the accurately auto-controls of start, stop, alternation and minimum
submerged depth of the pump, without need of special persons for looking-after, option at will is available between the selfcoupled reducing start and electronic soft start. All of these
makes sure of safe and reliable use of the pump without any worry.
5. Both motor and hydraulic parts are directly linked together, without need of turning the shaft for centering, easily disassembled and assembled to save the time, benefit for the
site maintenance, reducing the stopped time, saving the cost of repair; simple and compact structure leaves a small volume, only simple lifting equipment is needed, as a special lifting
handler is set on the pump; less land area and the pump can be placed directly in the sewage pond, without need of a special pump house, and the therefore the construction investment
can be saved by over 40.
6. Available with five installation modes for you to choose: auto-coupled, movable hard-pipe, movable soft-pipe, fixed wet type and fixed dry type installation modes.The auto-coupled installation means the connection between the pump and the water-out pipeline is made with the water outlet pipe seat of the auto-coupling, without use of the common fasteners, and, when to separate the pump from the water outlet pipe seat, just place it down along with the guide rod and then lift it, simply enough to get free from worry and trouble and save time.
The submersible sewage pump in the fixed dry type installation not only can replace the old vertical sewage pump but also does not fear of flood submersion, so there is no need of a separate flood-proof facility, benefit for lowering the cost of construction.


3) FAQ

1.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps




Q: when replacing the Water pump on an Isuzu rodeo while getting a new gasket does it require gasket sealant for this type of vehicle?
it depends mainly on the gaskets you are using whether or not they are paper type gaskets or rubber type gaskets or cork type some cars have only sealant and no gaskets most rubber gaskets don't need sealant some install it anyway for extra protection but to much sealant it could clog your cooling system if they are paper type gaskets a little sealant is added protection some mechanics put sealant on the gasket simply to hold it in place during the install some gaskets require sealant and a specific one at that there are many different types of sealant keep in mind if your gasket manufacture requires sealants to install its would be listed on the box it arrives in for the pre installation guides make sure you get the one they say also all sealant that dry some are wet sealants and never dry, keep in mine that if the sealant requires dry time after install you follow those guide lines otherwise it will leak keep in mind also that the water pump housing bolts have a specific install and tightening and torque down for that type of gaskets like 15 foot pounds on the bolts for cork type gaskets if you crank the bolts down to tight its going to split the gaskets and your back to square one replacing it again
Q: I have a 1969 Chrysler with a new 3 core radiator. It still has the stock water pump and I am wondering if a high volume pump would make it run cooler at higher speeds. It runs hotter when you get off the freeway. I have flushed the system and installed a new thermostat. I also replaced the fan clutch. I am at a loss of why it still runs warmer than the 180* thermostat.
Sometimes I really wonder about Robert. Yeah, water boils at 212--AT ATMOSPHERIC pressure. But a cooling system is pressurized to RAISE the boiling point. So, ah, Robert is once again in left field. Because if you wait for it to boil over, you've probably already caused engine damage. You do NOT need a high volume pump. The 3 core radiator does NOT need more flow. The temp gauge should not fluctuate. That's the job of the T-stat--to regulate engine temp and keep it at a set point. If you're engine is getting hot at higher speeds, Check for missing baffles or cracked fan shroud
Q: or how do i remove the water pump?please xplain
You need to get the large nut lose. It holds the fan/fan clutch to the water pump shaft. After you get that off it's all down hill from there.A large adjustable wrench will work on the nut but you will need to keep pump from turning to loosen it. I think it may be left hand thread. It is not on real tight. The book will help on this one.
Q: 1988 fleet wood prowler 22HJust bought it, first time camper owner. I need a battery and a water pump. I only want to buy one, but don't want an overpriced pump. Preferably one I could find at a chain store locally. Can anyone recommend a good one? Also, is there anything I should know before I take my camper to a rv hook up site? I have a pressure regulator that will twist on my spicket on the outside of my camper. Do I need any other kind of regulator, or hose, besides my pump before I go hook up?Can I hookup without a pump? The pipe is capped off where the pump would go. Thanks!
If you are connected to a campsite water supply you do not need a pump. The pump is only required to deliver water from the fresh water tank of your camper to the faucets and if equipped toilet of your camper when you are not connected to City water, ya I know I have probably been connected to an actual City water supply 4 days in over 10 years of trailer camping... but any campground water supply is referred to as a city supply in the trailer literature. The only accessory I recommend to have is a combination filter which will stop both sediment ( very common in campground water lines ) and secondary charcoal filter which will reduce both taste and chemical intrusions on your system / palate. Would I buy a basic system demand pump? Yes, but if the cost of the pump stands between your camping season and your camping plans for the season, cancel the pump and camp!
Q: I have a 1995 Johnson 88 Outboard. It needs a water pump. I have everything loose except the shift rod that goes all the way through the unit How is it connected and how do I disconnect it?Thanks for your answers.
Look okorder click on electronic parts catalogue select Johnson in the dropdown box upper left hand corrner click on 1995 click on 88 click on your model number (or any model #, all 3 have the same gearcase) click on cylinder crankcase the screw you're looking for is part #47 on that chart
Q: I will be replacing my timing belt soon. The dealer is suggesting that I also replace the water pump. Is that really necessary? When do water pumps normally go out?
The only reason they say that is because 90% of the labor to replace a water pump is already done by removing the timing belt. So if you decline and the pump goes out, you'll pay all that labor all over again. If you change your coolant when due and use the right coolant (not some universal coolant), then no, pumps don't usually go bad. But it's all up to you and your level of risk taking. Most people get talking into it because the dollar risk is so high compared to the cost of a pump.
Q: 2001 buick centurywater runs down at area of crank shaft
It am be leaks at them hole.
Q: I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?
doesnt sound like water pump you may have lost a heater core thats what it sounds like to me its getting vacuum and temp is jumping but you dont have heat sounds like it to me check that next but as with the other selection check if your thermostat is in wrong
Q: A tank is full of water. Find the work W required to pump the water out of the spout. (Use 9.8 for g and 3.14 for pi . Round your answer to three significant digits.)The tank is a spherical shape has a radius r= 6m and a spout height of h=2m.I really dont know how to start this problem correctly. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
The pump will not have to work until the water drains by gravity to the level of the spout. Then, Work = Weight of water * Height of lift Find the distance, d, of the center of mass for the remaining water in the bottom 2 m of the sphere. The height of lift will then be 2m - d. The hardest part is finding the distance d to the center of mass. I don't remember how to do that.
Q: I would like to know that a water pump or water motor which is of 1 hp what is the height from which it can pull water ? And also if there is a bubbling sound of air and no water is being supplied what does it mean ?
I will 'clarify' the question, then respond----- If you have a 1HP motor connected to a water pump,; what is its lifting capability ? (like raising the water UP from a well)... At or neat 'sea level', the very ideal (perfect) pump can lift water UP from 33 feet below. To be practical, considering in-efficiencies(losses) you should plan for about 25 feet of lift. Gurgling or bubbling of air/water is a good sign that the pump can not generate the vaccum-seal to begin the flow of water(priming process). You need to provide a way to prime the pump. To prime the pump, you need to supply a flow of water INTO the pump as it is running(water must be running backward into the well, then the pump will initiate the lifting process. To prevent the need to prime the pump everytime that you turn it on, you should put a check valve at the INTAKE orifice (the very end that sticks in the well). This will hold the column of water in the pipe; preventing it from running back into the well. (A check valve allows fluid to flow in one direction only....this must be connected such that the water can only flow UPWARD, out of the well. Good luck.....if you need further assistance, do email with more pump detail/specs. Make sure that the pump is rotating in the correct direction......

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