Self Priming Sewage centrifugal water pump

Self Priming Sewage centrifugal water pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10 set

Supply Capability:: 100 set/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Self Priming Sewage centrifugal water pump Our Products are packed in exportation plywood case usually, our package is good for protecting the products. The putting way is different because of the different pump size and quantity. english manual will be provided together with the products.
Delivery Detail:	15 working days for Gorman Rupp Self Priming Sewage pump

Gorman Rupp Self Priming Sewage centrifugal water pump

Performance Parameters:

Capacity( flow rate) : 30~1200m³/h

Head :5 ~ 60Meters

Suction Lift : 7ft~ 25ft

Max. Solid : 76.2mm

Material : Cast Iron,SS304,SS316,SS316L.

Driven mode: Electric Motor and Diesel Engine.

Seal : Mechanical Seal, Alloy SiC/SiC

Bearings : NSK brand

1.Products Overview:

P series self priming non-clogging sewage pump is a new generation product which is developed on the basis of the lastest technology and craftwork.

A hole is addad to make sure that stronger sewage can be cleaned quickly when pump is jammed.

The unique lubrication oil mechanical seal makes the performance more reliable and avoids to damage mechanical seal when it operates without water.

2.Main usage:

♦ Municipal Project,Sewage Project,Instruction Project.
♦ Transportion of the sewage of uptown.

♦ Sewage transportion in Hospital,Hotel and so on.

♦ Classification of municipal sewage treatment factory and concentrate treatment systems engineering.

♦ Tansportation of the factory and contaminated water.

3.Operation condition:

1. The temperature of medium no more than 80°C,

the density of medium is 1.0 ~1.3* 10³kg/m³.

PH is within 5~9 .

2.Max. diameter of solid should be less than 75mm.

3.Max. suction lift no more than 7m.

4. Technical Specification:

Specification:
1.Inlet/Outlet	2''(50mm), 3''(75mm), 4''(100mm), 6''(150mm), 8''(200mm), 10''(250mm), 12''(300mm)
2.Impeller Diameter	158.74mm-457.2mm
3.Rotary Speed	550RPM-2150 RPM
4.Flow Rates	8m3/h-1275m3/h	20GPM-5500GPM
5.Head	6m-63m
6.Horsepower	1HP-125HP
7.N.W	92KG-998KG
8.G.W	114KG-1066KG
9.Solid Passing	20.63mm-76.2mm
10.Material	Cast Iron, ADI, CD4MCU, 316 SS, Alloy 20, C276.
11.Diesel Driving	Water cooled or air cooled
12.Method of Connection	Self-priming pumps are available as basic units or may be flex-coupled, V-belt driven or engine mounted.
13.Drive Variation	Cummins, Deutz, Ricardo, Perkins or Chinese Diesel, Electric Motor
14.Skid Mounted on Trailer	2 or 4 wheels Trailer/Trailor,Cart
15.Package	Exporting plywood case
16.Certification	CE , ISO9001:2008

5. Details of all Pump size :

MODEL	R.P.M. R/MIN	MAX FLOW m3/H	TOTAL HEAD m	MOTOR HP	NET WEIGHT kg	GROSS WEIGHT kg	MAX SOLIDS mm
P-2	1150-2900	46	36	1 – 10 HP	92	114	44.45
P-3	650-2150	107	35	1 – 20 HP	183	205	63.5
P-4	650-1950	163	36	1 – 30 HP	259.5	280	76.2
P-6	650-1550	330	33	2 – 40 HP	364	391	76.2
P-8	650-1350	600	34	7.5 – 75 HP	581	634	76.2
P-10	650-1450	775	40	10 – 100 HP	635	663	76.2
P-12	650-1250	1275	42	20 – 125 HP	998	1066	76.2
H-3	850-2150	85	62	1.5 – 25 HP	214	225	20.63
H-4	850-2150	148	58	3 – 40 HP	272	297	28.57
H-6	850-1950	308	57	5 – 75 HP	413	437	31.75

Q: What is a fair price to have a water pump with belts replaced on a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer?: My 2002 Trailblazer water pump went out. I was able to get a local mechanic to install it (after I bought the parts for $150.00 The fan shroud and clutch have to come off. You need a special tool also. I think the dealer wanted about 700 bucks. I had the guy do it for 150 I bought the water pump (about 40 bucks) and he replaced the serpentine belt since he had to take to old one off.

Q: I have a well water pump and the motor seems to just run but won't transfer water through the line, checked for leakage, etc but no signs. Even tried priming it but it does nothing. Any idea of what could be wrong or how to repair this problem?: . do you have air pressure tank inline of your system ? bet it lost its precharge. Put air gauge on it most are set about 30 psi .. They are usually labeled. For psi

Q: We just replaced the motor on our water pump that burnt out but we are still getting no water pressure. My father in law did a lot of test stuff on it he thinks it's the foot valve. Well I've been trying to call every where get quotes but NOT 1 of the places I called is answering their phone for some reason. So how much dose it usually run to have someone come fix your foot valve so I have an idea to tell my husband?: A very good foot valve will cost about $20 then it will be the cost of a service call, here we charge about $70 but depending on where you live, how deep the valve is and where its located the price maybe different, and the cost maybe more on a weekend too. Giving quotes for this is not really profitable for service companies, so if you are not prepared to do it yourself then you will have to pay the service call rate. A good reputable company will arrive at your home and give you an approximation on what it will cost, but remember once you call them there you will probably have to pay the service call rate, if you are running tight on money call around and ask the rates but remember that this is a weekend and most companies will be running a small crew and might take time to answer your call. The other option is since you have changed the pump yourself why not just change the foot valve your self? Have you primed the pump after replacement? To replace the valve the pipe that runs to the bottom of your well must be pulled up and the valve is on the bottom of it, its a simple matter of removing the old one and replacing with new the big job is usally the pulling up of the pipe.

Q: Water pump. A drip on the edge of the pump or drip on the ground. Serious concern on which one?: if its starting to drip coolant from it and it isn't a gasket you need to replace it ,they don't last to long once they start to leak,you can look at it and tell where the leak is coming from,i have seen a few on occasion that was leaking from the gasket where somone had replaced them and not got a good seal back on it,but most of the time your looking at repalcing the water pump,depending on what its on it can be a big job to do,good luck.

Q: Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!: having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.

Q: I want to build a portable, working steam room display for trade shows. I need to feed water from a storage tank to a steam generator when it's called for. How can I do this? Is there a type of water pump that would work for this?: I would buy a little aquarium filter pump to feed the steam system.You can regulate it with a little valve in the tubing and use any kind of tub as a reservoir for the water depending on the amount you need to create the steam.

Q: My water pump keeps getting quite hot after each use. Everything seems to be working properly, except I think that the heat may cause it to burn out and that would cause a huge problem. My pump pulls water from a ground level water tank and pushes water up three flats to the part of my house used for living quarters. The pressure setting is set to cut out at 40psi and cut in at 25psi. What can I do myself before calling in expensive experts?: might be bearings in the motor or could need a good cleaning and reapcking with heavy lithium grease or maybe get some kind of colloing fan or raditor system to keep it cool !

Q: it was fine before the water pump was done garage says it is just a coincidence? but could the water pump effect the heating?: I am going to think your fan is working and switch. If they changed the water pump, they might have broken some debris or sealant that is clogging your heater intake hose or heater core. I would start with finding the intake and return hoes for the heater core and back flush the heater core. Did this to my old truck and the heater worked really good after that. You did not say what year the car was does it have its own belt for the water pump? is that in working order? GL

Q: I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.): I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM

Q: implementation of regulator in water level control system: I call the guy who installed it if he reputable he abound fix it if hes a jack. Then call a real plumber.

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