• Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 1
  • Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 2
  • Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 3
  • Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 4
Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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 Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump

50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.


Picture

 Pump Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 



Q: im attaching a motor from another filter onto my homemade filter. but i dont want to have to run a cord all the way from the pond to a powerplug. does anyone know of another way to such water into a filter without using electricity? some kind of siphon?
1. I had an electrician put a buried cable in the ground coming up to a weatherproof post with outlets and an on-off switch. It was not as expensive as I thought it would be. 2. You can put the water pump and filters by the house or even inside and run buried water pipes out to the pond, or just put the pump inside and have the filter by the pond which would run by water pressure or gravity. 3. A windmill or solar panel. A siphon uses potential energy stored in the water to work. Once the water has dropped through the siphon, there is no more energy to draw from and the siphon stops. A windmill or solar panel could provide the power to lift the water back up and make the process continuous, or at least while it's windy or sunny. However when pricing these two options even though they would be very cool if you have the large yard to accommodate them, they turn out to cost much more than either 1. or 2. and have much higher maintenance costs associated with them. 4. If it's a very small pond, you can get a solar powered filter/fountain that looks like a floating plastic lily pad. My son had one of these, but it only worked on the sunniest of days, and lasted one summer before wearing out. If you add a large block of filter foam over the intake it may last a little longer. Rinse it out two or three times a week.
Q: how do I know my water pump failed. 98 mustang V6 started to leak coolant from the front lower part of the the engine. How do I know for sure my pump is bad? Did refill and kept on leaking as I manage to get home. Little help please!
I count on he didn't disassemble the engine. Clearly this failure used to be from lack of good storage tactics. Lack of use is much worse than heavy use. I seen few outboards worn out, they're neglected to death. Having said that examine out my answer to a similar question today. Yes, failure of the water pump can contribute to this failure but a unfastened spark plug would not. The water pump should be replaced once per 12 months, or now not longer than two seasons, in spite of use. They take a suite because of age, and can fail with out warning. Whilst the first mechanic has some responsibility, I think you need to take the lions share. See owners handbook on storage tactics. Sorry!!!!!!
Q: How can we calculate the maximum pump pressure for chilled water system for a 20 story building
the question is not stated in such a way that a response is merited. What, exactly, is the problem? Minimum pressure might be enough to push a water column 20 stories... max pressure? how about 726 or a million psi?
Q: I was wondering if there was a device that can pump and cool water. What I am looking for is essentially an aquarium pump that cools the water as it circulates.
You okorder /
Q: I want to know how to start up a water pump so i can move up to my camp.
There's a few different kinds of water pumps. If you're referring to a hand-pumped well water pump that doesn't work, then it's generally lost it's prime. Some well pumps are constructed so you pour a quart or so of water into the pump and stroke the handle up and down until the water rises in the well. Other kinds of well pumps you have to take the hand pump off and pour a bucket of water into the well hole. It just depends on what kind of water pump you have.
Q: To get at the timing belt on a Toyota 3.4L V6, does the water pump first need to be removed?If so, is there a way to tell how worn a water pump with 85,000 miles is? Like a loose bearing feel, etc?
We have a Camry Conquest V6 1998 model and all these are similar in desing and yes it is recomened as most of the items removed to replace timing belt also will need to be removed if water pump fails and ta a cost of about $900 AUD each time best to replace together for an extra $100 or so. We usualy replace all the following every 100.000 kilometers: Timing belt kits including all pullies, Water pump, Drive belts (The ones for air cond and generator) and becuase half the motor has to be dismantled to reple the spark plugs we also do these as well. All together it cost about $1200.00 AUD to do them all together well worth it and saves you about $1000.00 in servicing in long run. Hope this is helpfull. Note our cars has just turned on to 388.000 kilometers with out missing a beat also we change oil and fileter and service it as required by the service book but then again it never has broken down or given us problems. Its better than buying new car everytime the blow up du to no proper servicing. :)
Q: I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6 cyl while driving home the other day my check engine light came on ,then I noticed my battery was loosing its' charge ,then I noticed my temperature gauge rising very fast.I stoped to see what the problem was.The vehicle had over heated and the serpentine belt was partially off Iet it cool down then I put water in it and drove it home which was about a quarter of a mile.I noticed no problems with the fan hitting the water pump pully until I put the belt back on .My water pump pulley appears to be off line how do I fix this?
your water pump bearing is probably worn out, unfortunately if this is the case replacing the water pump is the only option take the belt off again grab the fan if you can wiggle it forward and back its no good if its ok go to the belt tensioner, Its the next most likely culprit if it get out of line it will throw the whole thing out of whack good luck
Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
these prices are correct for dealership quote. you will get a cheaper price with independent shop. your timing belt should be changed anytime after 75k miles. the timing belt and belt tensioner will break and you do not want to have replace the cyl. head, it's alot more money. the dealership lied about your water pump. that year the water pump runs off the drive belts not the timing belt. you can replace the water pump and not even touch your timing belt. your cam adjuster seal probably not leaking. what happens is the valve cover leaks oil on to the cam adjuster and is commonly mis-diagnosed. try just changing the valve cover gasket, clean up your excess oil and reinspect the seals on the back of your cylinder head after 500 miles. good luck.
Q: 97 izusu rodeo has constant squeal after timing belt, water pump and all belts being replaced what could be the cause. It sounds pretty bad.
Are the belts the proper tension? Have you stuck your head under the hood while the engine is running to figure out where the noise is coming from? (Be very careful not to hurt yourself while doing this.) If it's still a belt making the noise and it has the proper amount of tension, then get a bar of soap. While the vehicle is on, apply the soap to a pulley the squeaking belt is on. This should get rid of the noise. If it destroys your car and kills you or your cat, I am in no way responsible...Do all of this at your own risk.
Q: This is what it is doing- the actual pump that is in its own little shed CLICKS all of the time water is being ran, even a small amount of water. The water pressure goes to a slow trickle and eventually stops completely. After about 20-30 minutes I go back and check the spickets and the water is fine, but quickly repeats this same cycle. We just installed this pump about 3 weeks ago. It was doing fine until last week. Does it need to be primed or pressure switch settings increased or decreased? Or am I talking totally out of my head?!
Might be air in the water lines. Be careful and don't allow the pump to run very long when it isn't pumping any water or you will be buying another pump. It sounds like it is loosing it's prime as it builds up enough to send water to the faucets and then looses it's prime and then has to wait until it builds up enough to start over again. You may need to call someone out and have them run down the problem before you burn up your new pump.

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