• Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 1
  • Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 2
  • Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 3
  • Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump System 4
Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

 

Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump

50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.


Picture

 Full Stainless Submersible Basement Sewage Pump

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 


Q: What are some good brands of aquarium water pumps? I have had bad experiances with Hydor Seltz (cheapest ones I could find, ugg, I know, you get what you pay for) pumps, failing very quickly, and sounding like plastic gears grinding around inside. What is the best kind to get?I need one that's around 150gph
PowerHead? or Sump Pump? I have used hagen aquaclear powerheads on my saltwater tanks for years 24/7 without a problem. I just purchased 3 MaxiJet 1200 powerheads and a wave timer to see haw they do, 6 months now 24/7 and so far so good. The longest lasting Sump Pump that I have ever owned is made by Ehime, I've had it for 14 years now and it's still going in one of my tanks. I better cross my fingers on that one.LOL
Q: how do you check the water pump? We started the engine with water running through the bunny ears and no water is running out.
There should be with muffs even if the impeller is bad check the thermostat or drop the foot and check the impeller.
Q: I was looking at a water pump and the specs said 110 Foot Max. Total Head and 20 Foot Max. Suction Lift. Can someone please explain this? Thanks.
I have two ponds, one that is always full and one that is always low. They are 550 ft apart and there is a change in upward elevation of about 35ft. What pump is needed to allow me to transfer water from the lower pond to the upper pond?
Q: 1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :)
When all these pumps were replaced, were they new pumps or remanufactured pumps? It makes a difference in the quality and longevity. Spring for the new pump, preferably from Ford. The impeller problem was on the 2.5 liter V6 Contour, they are plastic and tend to scatter under load. As far as the gauge goes, it is normal on the four cylinder Contour for the hand to be between the M and the L in normal on the gauge. All of the 4 cylinder Contours are like this and the vehicle is not overheating. There is a TSB from Ford concerning the gauge, the TSB number is 98-21-3, the dealer can pull it up and let you look at it.
Q: Water is pumped upwards 4.000 m into a pool. The flow rate of the water is 4.000 L/min and it takes 10.00 minutes to fill the pool. What is the power of the pump?I would appreciate any help that you can give me - this is a question on an upcoming test!
g = 10m/s^2 1 : Mass of water per Minute = 4 * 1000g = 4Kg Mass of water per second = 4Kg/60 Height = 4m Work per second = m(per second) g h = Power Power = 4/60*10*4 = 160/60 W = 2.6666W 2: Total Mass of water = 4 * 1000g * 10 =40Kg Height = 4m Work Done = mgh = 40*4*10 = 1600j Power = Work/Time = 1600/(10*60) = 2.6666W This is a Very Small Pump :P Hope this Helps Kaushalya Damitha
Q: Water pump located on the ground floor of our 10 story building is leaking and therefore it is constantly running and spilling water into the parking lot. Therefore, a plumber shut the water pump off and opened a bypass valve.After we shut off water pump all units still have good water pressure so why do we need to replace water pump?When water pump is on the incoming city water gauge reads 60psi and the gauge measuring the water shooting up into the building reads 80psi. Now both gauges read zero.How can water coming from the city at 60psi travel all the way to the 10th floor without a boost? I do not understand what is happening.
It will be less pressure on 10th floor for sure. If everyone is showering or using water on 2 and 3, 10 wont have any pressure. Its probably time to replace gauges and fix the pump. May just need a seal and impeller adjustment. It also sounds like you need or need to replace the pressure switch that is supposed to only turn pump on when demand is high. Check it out. Run ad on craigslist for a pump man to check it out. If you need to replace pump go with an ANSI pump. All parts are interchangeable.
Q: I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Blue pump, usually found on the floor near the furnace (sometimes mounted where plenum meets the furnace frame) is a condensate pump. One of the products of combustion is water. This water is drained from the ventor motor (a motor which runs and sets a artificial draft inside the combustion chamber) to a drain nearby or a electric pump which then pumps the water over a longer distance to a remote drain. If the pump's discharge outlet gets plugged from dirt the result is usually the mess you see. Remove the cover plate of the pump housing, clean it out and run a wire with a small rag attached as a snake through the tube to drain. There is usually some type of float switch inside the pump housing so make sure it is free to move. Check for operation by pouring some tap water in it and move the float switch to on (up) One final note and this is very important. If the pump or tube to drain is filled up with a crud that resembles paste, call your local trusted HVAC tech for furnace service. This condition can be an early sign of heat exchanger failure and is a major safety concern for your family
Q: Okay so we have a water pump outside instead of city water. A few days ago we noticed that it would turn off like always once the tank was full but then just would never turn back on. It was odd to us since it would always turn on and off at appropriate times. Now its on maybe 10 seconds and it shuts off. I took off one of the clear hoses it has and notices a green ooze inside it. I cleaned out the ooze and tapped some of the pipes in hopes of some more of it coming out. Since we have had a leak there is green stuff which i am guessing is lime, on the side of the tank. I'm also guessing this must bee the green ooze. What should I do? Now there is no water whatsoever being pumped and the time it does turn on very little water passes through. To me it sounds like something is blocking the pipes but if I pay hundreds for someone to come replace the pipes and check out the motor I dont want to end up with this problem again. If anyone has any information as to helping me I would so greatly appreciate it.
do you have shallow or deep well its the middle of summer the well could be dry you might have lost your prime on your pump there will be a bolt for priming take bolt out pour water in to hole untill full restart pump if pump doesnt fill up you might a stuck foot valve.
Q: I have coolant leaking out and i'm pretty sure now that it is the water pump. Question can water pumps leak even if the cars not running?Like a steady drip every two seconds? Forming a decent puddle after awhile, but when running the pump is'nt making any abnormal noises is that normal? Is there other clues to positively know the pump is bad? I cant believe how hard a job it looks like it would be to replace it there is no room! Anybody with some helpful how to's? how about an estimate on how much a shop would charge to do it?
I have a 94 grand am with the 3.1 v6 and really it's an easy job, it looks harder than it is. The biggest thing is getting the serpentine belt off.

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