Stainless Steel Submersible Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

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Supply Capability:: 99 units unit/month

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ASG/WQS Submersible Sewage Pumps (stainless steel)

This kind of pump is with the big channel and nonclog impeller, the solids up to 80 mm can be effectively passed. With rugged cast iron pump body, the last new material is used for seal, motor is F calss and IP68 protection, the pump can operate smoothly for a long time. Compact structure, easy to movement, convenient to installation. The automatic installation system with double guide rails brings great convenient for the installation and maintenance. The pump will automatically operating and stop thanks to the float switch. With varies monitor, the pump can be remote controlled.

Application Scope:
Be used for the drainage of serious polluted water in factory or commerce. Be used for the drainage of sewage in residential area. Be used for the drainage of sewage in hospital and hotel. Be used for the water supply and drainage in waterworks. Be used for the water supply and drainage system in city sewage treatment factory. Be used for the drainage of water in civil air defense system. Be used for the municipal engineering and construction site. Be used for agricultural methane, agricultural irrigation.

Material:

Impeller, volute, casing, and cover etc: SS304

Q: coolant coming out around a tube that supplies the heater core (told its the water pump just don't see how): That tube is part of the water pump housing. Essentially the water pump. You may be able to get the leak fixed but if it's that old just go ahead and replace the pump.

Q: I have a 94 Mazda b2300 it was working great last week then all the sudden it started making a knocking sound and started to overheat! Its still drivable but it overheats if i go far! A friend told me it can be the Water Pump so i put a new one, I was told it can be the Thermostat so i had a new one put in. It worked for awhile but began overheating again. My truck is my livelihood so its important i get it fixed! I cant afford a mechanic but just asking to see if anyone knows what it could possibly be? It catches good and the engine sounds strong but it keeps overheating!: 94 Mazda B2300

Q: Under what circumstances should we set up fire pool and fire pump room? Is it necessary to have a building?: These facilities are available only in large public buildings.

Q: mercury 9.8hp.installed a new water pump impeller and still no water circulating through engine. no blockage anywhere. now what??? i`m stumped at this point.: This engine has a hose that discharges a small stream of water when running. But most of the water is discharged through the center of the prop. It's not uncommon for this hose to plug from small bits of sand and mud. a small wire can unplug it. If the thermostat is stuck this might cause what your describing, but it's rare. Is it possible that the little round drive pin that goes between the impeller and the drive-shaft, broke or came out during assembly? Or the guide tube in the lower leg (intermediate housing) is not in place of blocked. Sometimes the sleeve that seals this gets crumpled under during installation and can block the flow. My recommendation is to disassemble and check each step until you've found the problem, or satisfied your self that everything is right.

Q: I just had the water pump replaced, now less than a week later it is overheating again and sometimes blowing cold air. What does this sound like it would be?: Thermostat.

Q: Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!: I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean

Q: 2004 chevy impala 3.4 v6 The small leak is right behind the pulley of the water pump. Car is not overheating .the leak is only for a little while then it stops . water pump seems to be working fine but the leak ,what could it be ?: it's the seal - it needs to get fixed soon

Q: The pump works and water goes to the house from the reserve tanks but there can be long delays before it cuts in after mains pressure is lost. After it stops the pressure gauge falls back slowly to zero. Pressure vessel is a sphere has a valve on top. Any suggestions ?: The guage is probably broken, but that is mostly for reference for setting your start/stop switch. Now, first off I'd check your bladder tank. A bad bladder tank will still give you some pressure but causes the pump to run almost constantly. To test that, there is a bicycle looking air valve sticking out of the bladder tank. Push a key or something in it as if you were to let air out of a tire. If any water comes out, your bladder is bad and has to be replaced. If you have an older style deep well, like a well house where the pump is accessible, check the switch, (little black box attached to the pump). There are two screws that can be turned. One sets the pressure the pump will turn off at and the other adjusts the minimum pressure you want for the water to turn back on and fill your tank. A lot of people go 20/40, I run mine at 30/50. Much more than that and you can run into problems, especially if you have cpvc pipes. They will weaken at the elbows and 60 psi of water can eventually make pin hole leaks. This is from personal experience. You will need a working gauge to set this. If the bladder is not your problem, email me and I'll give you more details on how to set your pump if you need it. Or, you can buy preset switches at your local hardware for $20 and just swap it out. In that case, do not mess with the adjustment screws.

Q: After the pump has the control box, but also the power distribution box, the control box and the distribution box is not the same box?: 1, after the pump has the control box, do not need the distribution box.2. The control box is not the same as the distribution box.Wiring principle is as follows: from the distribution box power supply into the control box, L1, L2, L3 (usually so); from the control box to connect U, V, W to the water pump.

Q: I am creating a project where I must pump water to a helmet. If you have any ideas, thoughts, solutions, diagrams, etc. please? thanks: your question is not clear, do you need to build the pump from scratch or you should find one? what is the water flow rate? how high the water need to go? what the helmet has to do with the problem? simplest solution will be to go to the store and buy small hand pump (for fuel).

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