• Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series) System 1
  • Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series) System 2
  • Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series) System 3
Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Application of Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

This series pumps because of wide range of flow and head, are extensively used for electrical irrigation, forest water spraying, pumping water from well, water tower deliver and urban construction water supply and discharge for farms, villages, industrial and mining enterprise.

Operating conditions of Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

* Max. Medium temperature: 40° C
* Max. Ambient temperature 40° C
*Volume ratio of medium granule: Below 2%.
*Voltage fluctuation range: 0.9-1.1 times of the rated value.

 

Material of Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

*Pump body: Cast iron
*Impeller: Cast iron
*Shaft with rotor: Superior steel
*Mechanical seal: Stainless steel/Carbon-ceramic
*Thermal protector
*Cable: 8 meters

 

FAQ

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

 

Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

Q: How to install circulating water pump for cooling tower?
This should be installed at the inlet of the cooling tower. The water at the outlet of the cooling tower is returned to the pool
Q: i replaced the water pump and redid the timing belt. now when i start it, it sounds like one of the cylinder is misfiring and makes a chucking noise. do you have to reconnect everything together to see if thats the problem? the engine worked fine before i replaced my water pump. engine like vibrates at each chucking noise. could it be incorrect timing even when the engine starts fine? or is one of the valves bent which is causing the vibration and noise? i checked teh spark plugs and they are fine could if be bad coils? or is the crankshaft weared out? please help and thanks for you help about my situation.
sounds like the timing is off a little, yes, even with the timing set incorrestly, it can still start and run. I doubt your vehicle has coils and there is no such thing as weared.
Q: 1978 Ranchero 500. Pumps leaking like crazy. I have a belt to remove, which i assume is the serpentine belt? Its tight as can be on the pulleys. I have no clue how to remove this and any other advice on this do-it-yourself project would be much appreciated. Thanks
You can loosen alternator, or power steering pump, or jump belt off of idler pulley if it has one. But I doubt that it is a serpentine belt, just a v-belt.
Q: PUMP RUNS BUT DONT PUMP WATER
I am not completely sure but i'll share my thoughts. I'm not certain but I think the water tank should have a seperate fill up. If your filling your fresh water tank and nothing is coming out of your faucet, my guess would be the water pump. Check and see if there is a reset button on your water pump switch. If not there should be a breaker for it located somewhere in the camper. But if you screw your water hose in to your camper and there is constant water pressure then there should be some water without having to use the water pump. If not then I'm stumped..
Q: The truck has 89k on it and i'm having the timing belt done this week; would it be wise to get the pump changed since it's in the same area, even though it's not leaking; for preventitive maintenance purposes, or is there life left in the pump? I don't want to take it back soon after if the pump does go out
Water pump life is a direct function of proper maintenance, therefore there is no real answer to your question. At 89k you could certainly elect to replace the WP as long as the T-Belt is also being done, but it is purely a preventive maintenance item. Might save you a lot of money later, or it might not. Impossible to say. It will give you more peace of mind though.
Q: I just move to this house, it's been empty for a while. The water pump keep screeching everytime I turn it on. What can I do to get rid this noise?
Check if your water pump has an oil port, and put some oilers. The other possibility is that the pump impeller is coming loose or warped and rubbing. That means the pump is going out and needs rebuild or replacement. That is worse case along with a failing motor bearing.
Q: Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
Q: I have a 1 HP water pump that will pump water through a 1 and 1/2hose. What is the approx. GPM (just to have a reference) of a pump like this?
The capacity will be limited by the pressure drop. Assume 15-40 GPM depending on the length of the 1 hose. This is provided that the 1 is then split into four 1/2 hoses. Otherwise the flow will be highly restricted by the smaller diameter. The efficiency of a small centrifugal pump is around 50%. The general water pump equation at 50% eff. is HP = GPM psi / 860. So for one horsepower the GPM = 860 / psi Therefore for 20 psi the flow is 43 GPM, at 40 psi it is 21 GPM , at 60 psi it is 15 GPM
Q: Is it accurate to say that it should begin at 2, not at 0?
It freezes at 0 degrees, and the pump runs and gets stuck.
Q: I have a 1997 mazda 626 4cylinder. For a while now, my hot n cold gauge keeps wobbling back and forth. I was keeping water in it and it was fine. A week ago it went all the way to hot and started smoking. There is water gushing out right beside the pulleys. I'm not sure if it is the water pump or not. Now, my car won't crank. Someone told me that it was the rotor button, but i can't tell if it is bad. I don't really want to take it to a mechanic. Can someone help me?????
Take it to a mechanic ! You have a serious problem.

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