• Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series) System 1
  • Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series) System 2
  • Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series) System 3
Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Application of Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

This series pumps because of wide range of flow and head, are extensively used for electrical irrigation, forest water spraying, pumping water from well, water tower deliver and urban construction water supply and discharge for farms, villages, industrial and mining enterprise.

Operating conditions of Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

* Max. Medium temperature: 40° C
* Max. Ambient temperature 40° C
*Volume ratio of medium granule: Below 2%.
*Voltage fluctuation range: 0.9-1.1 times of the rated value.

 

Material of Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

*Pump body: Cast iron
*Impeller: Cast iron
*Shaft with rotor: Superior steel
*Mechanical seal: Stainless steel/Carbon-ceramic
*Thermal protector
*Cable: 8 meters

 

FAQ

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

 

Oil-Filled Multistage Submersible Pump for Clean Water (QY Series)

Q: removed my water pump to replace it. i have the fan and clutch assembly still attached...i have no idea how to remove these...the fan clutch has bolts that hold the fan to it...and i did remove those but im just not sure how to separate this assembly...my water pump pulley has 4 holes...and no bolts so i presume it's pressed on...and there looks to be a very large nut between the pulley and the fan/clutch assembly...any help would be appreciated on this...i'd much rather go to the parts store w/ the old pump instead of guessing.....thnx in advance...
I,m with JOHN R in this one, confirm your radiator fan seize is working and not purely unfastened wheeling all of the time and additionally confirm that there is no air trapped interior the cooling gadget.With engine off crack a heater hose unfastened close to the heater center and pour anti freeze in until it starts to return out the disconnected hose. And the cooling fan could become noticeably louder whilst the engine is heat and in case you shut the engine off it is going to experience stiffer to coach than it does cool. sturdy success.
Q: My 2005 Lexus IS300 is close to 90K miles and I believe the timing belt/water pump should be replaced. I have priced this with several dealers and mechanics and at this time I can't afford close to $1000 to have this done. However, I see there are kits that can be purchased for about $400.Can a DIY'er with above average mechanical experience replace the belt nd pump relatively easily?
The fact that you've posed that question here is a pretty fair indicator that you will NOT have an easy time trying to do this work. And actually $1k is not a bad price for this type of repair. If you make a mistake while performing this work yourself the consequences could be very, very severe, i.e., completely blowing your engine. If I were you, I'd rely on public transportation until I could save the requisite $1k to have a shop do the repair.
Q: Pump head is too high what's the impact?
After the determination of the pump type, such as the actual pump lift is too high, it will not only result in lower efficiency of the pump, and will seriously affect the actual flow of the pump to Q decline. On the contrary, if the pump head selected too high, but the actual operation of the lift is too low, is also affecting the pump efficiency and decrease caused by actual operation when the flow is too large, it is likely to increase the pump power beyond the rated current of the motor and the heating.
Q: i have a 1960 ford f100 and i was wondering if its better to have an electric water pump or mechanical. ive heard mechanical is worse because at low rpms it doesnt put as much water into the motor but i wasnt sure how true that was. What was is better so that my truck doesnt overheat? and how much better is one over the other if electric will just be a little better is it even worth using? also will i need to change anything on my motor to be able to put an electric water pump on it or will it just bolt on like the mechanical one does
Well your mechanical water pump is more than sufficient to pump water through your engine even at low rpms. Whether you have a electric or mechanical your can't pump more water though your engine than what your thermostat will allow you to. The advantage that i can see over electric would be the extra horse power you might get over having your mechanical
Q: (used in business units, cities in the North)1, how many watts, head M?2 is it fixed or removable?3, portable or heavy?4, how many units? What brand is good (Fire Department, or flood control command, often used brand, model)?5, diving?
Do not know where to use, in case the the Yellow River burst, you might as well buy a boat
Q: There are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card, is not a bad capacitor, how much is the direct standard capacitance it?
The motor is sure of electricity, isn't it? Is there a low voltage or broken phase (three-phase motor), these cases will cause the motor does not turn, or low speed (easy to block), so should be measured with a universal meter. Maybe the boot capacitor is broken. Or smell the smell of burning. It might be a short circuit between the motor windings. (bearings should be hard to break). Look for repairs if you suggest. You may not be good. Oh, capacitor. You can measure good and bad with a universal watch. If the capacitor is replaced, it is better to choose the same capacitor as the original configuration parameter.
Q: I have a 1990 GMC K1500 Sierra and about 1 week ago I went to check the anti-freeze level. I noticed it was a tiny bit down. So I look down at the lower radiator hose and it had a slow drip. So the next day I changed the anti-freeze, New thermostat, and a New lower radiator hose. So I thought it was fine but yesterday I went to go check the anti-freeze and the level was down. I look at the lower radiator hose and it has a slow drip again. The hose I replace was Brand New. Could this be a water pump? I did notice a tiny bit of anti-freeze on the water pump. Or what could this be or do I have to change the hose again?
here,s what to do. when it,s dripping look under the car and see if it,s running down the hose. it could be coming from the top of the hose like maybe the top clamp is,nt tight enough or it could be coming from the water pump. if it turns out to be the hose then do like i do. i put some ( indian head shellac ) around the inside of the hoses then i put it on. that will stop it from leaking if it,s the hose.
Q: My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
If the water pump impeller fail your heater will not work properly because the coolant is not circulating .If coolant is low or restricted heater core will result more or less the same condition.However overheating can be cause by timing too.Blown head gasket can be verify with compression test.Water pump can leak while you are driving and may leave little to hard to detect trace of leak.It can pissing for a few seconds and stop for a while. Do not over look the pressure cap.It can cause overheating symptoms boiling over the recovery tank.Plug rad will definitely cause that.The cooling fan -if electric can be faulty. Some has a module or relay activate by a temperature sensor.Some has a temp.sensor sending signal to the COMPUTER and the computer turns the e-fan on or off.If any of those components is faulty.you can have overheating problems.check it out
Q: i drove up a hill which was about a mile and when i got up the hill i drove anther half a mile to my location and as soon as i tuned my car off i notice coolant leak for the reservoir tank and being dumb i took the cap off off and i think you know so i drove it home after letting it return to a lower temp and it didn't run hot it just raised 2 line above the middle marker and i ran it today just to idle and refilled the tank and let it run it didn't leak but the Serpentine belt made a noise not loud but noticeable (could this be a bad water pump and i flushed my radiator before they swapped engine out which was not long ago) the current engine is used and run fine with power and pep
I would recommend contacting your local dealer for more specific information. They should be able to provide you with a diagnosis and point you in the right direction. I can also locate a dealership in your area with your zip code or look into this further with your VIN. Please feel free to keep me posted via email if you would like. Thank you. Tricia, GM Customer Service.
Q: Hi. This car is 66 chevy but the motor is a 1984 chevy 350 4bolt main stroked to 383. I think its an '84, might be an '85. I need to replace fan clutch and water pump.... the fan clutch is bad but manufacturer of the replacement parts says you must do water pump and fan clutch together. Is the pump a 66 chevy pump or a 350 small block pump? What about the fan clutch? Ok, and please help with motor mounts. do I use mounts specific for 66 model or specific to the motor?
look okorder /

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords