QY-S Stainless Steel Oil-filled Submersible Pump(Fountain Pump)

QY-S Stainless Steel Oil-filled Submersible Pump(Fountain Pump) System 1

QY-S Stainless Steel Oil-filled Submersible Pump(Fountain Pump)

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Application:
Farm irrigation, cultivation, fountain, seawater, saltwater, hospitals, residence, municipal works, mining, traffic construction, etc.

Service Conditions:
1. Max. immersion depth:5m.
2. Max. liquid temperature: +60°C.
3. PH: 304(4-10),316(2-13).
4. Solids up to 0.2mm, volume ratio≤0.1%.

Product Introduction:
1. It is beautiful, small. A float oil sac in pump bottom will adjust downwards once pump temperature rises, prevent the pump from crackling, which makes the pump running safely and reliably.
2. VITON double mechanical seal in oil chamber, single mechanical seal in outer chamber, which avoid water into motor.
3. The motor uses F grade insulation, with cone-shaped bearing design, which prolongs the pump's service life.

Performance Data:

MODEL	RATED Q(m3/h)	RATED H(m)	RATED POWER (kW)	VOLTAGE (V)	OUTLET DIA. (mm)	G.W. (kg)	PACKAGE DIMENSION (cm3)
QY15-26-2.2S	15	26	2.2	380	50	40	60×27×27
QY25-17-2.2S	25	17	2.2	380	65	38.4	60×27×27
QY38-14-2.2S	38	14	2.2	380	80	39	65×25×27
QY65-7-2.2S	65	7	2.2	380	100	39	65×25×27
QY100-4.5-2.2S	100	4.5	2.2	380	150	38.4	65×25×27
QY15-36-3S	15	36	3	380	50	44.4	76×27×30
QY25-26-3S	25	26	3	380	65	44	76×27×30
QY40-16-3S	40	16	3	380	80	44.4	76×27×30
QY65-10-3S	65	10	3	380	100	46	76×27×30
QY160-5-3S	160	5	3	380	150	48.2	76×27×30
QY12.5-50-4S	12.5	50	4	380	50	48.2	70×30×30
QY40-21-4S	40	21	4	380	80	50	70×30×30
QY65-14-4S	65	14	4	380	100	50.2	70×30×30
QY100-9-4S	100	9	4	380	150	50.5	76×27×30
QY160-5.5-4S	160	5.5	4	380	200	54.4	76×27×30
QY25-40-5.5S	25	40	5.5	380	65
QY40-28-5.5S	40	28	5.5	380	80
QY65-18-5.5S	65	18	5.5	380	100
QY100-12-5.5S	100	12	5.5	380	150
QY160-8-5.5S	160	8	5.5	380	200
QY25-50-7.5S	25	50	7.5	380	65
QY40-38-7.5S	40	38	7.5	380	80
QY65-25-7.5S	65	25	7.5	380	100
QY100-15-7.5S	100	15	7.5	380	150
QY160-11-7.5S	160	11	7.5	380	200
QY6-115/5-5.5S	6	115	5.5	380/660	50/65
QY10-115/5-7.5S	10	115	7.5	380/660	50/65
QY20-75/5-7.5S	20	75	7.5	380/660	50/65
QY15-110/5-9.2S	15	110	9.2	380/660	50/65
QY20-110/5-11S	20	110	11	380/660	80/65
QY10-165/6-11S	10	165	11	380/660	50/65

Q: Fire pump and spray pump requires a preparation, 2 sets of the same pump requires mutual investment, when the main pump failure of backup pump automatically put into use. 1: so what is the throwing device: 2: where is the device installed? It should be in the water pump control box. 3: what is the principle of mutual voting? Detailed description: You can refer to the DCL and DCS microcomputer access control system, you can achieve the purpose of remote control. Specific installation methods can be found in local instrument engineering inquiries.

Q: coolant leaking from weep hole on water pump need to know what i need to remove to replace or should i call mechanic: its better to have someone show you instead of tell you

Q: I have a leak on the front of the engine by the timing belt housing coming out of a small hole by the alternator. I assume it is a leaking water pump. How do to go about changing the water pump?Short clip of actual leak coming from the hole by the alternator and under the timing belt housing: water pump is timing belt driven, so you have to pull all of the belts off, the timing belt cover and that belt also. if that belt has not been replaced in 80,000 miles. you want to do that. i had a 93 civic and a 90 civic that i did the belt and pump in at 230,000 miles. it takes a little time but it is not that bad. the harmonic balancer has to come off for the timing belt also.

Q: How hard is it change a 1993 subaru imprezza water pump: At a minimum, you have to pull the engine out of the bay... not always the easiest thing in the world.

Q: or how do i remove the water pump?please xplain: You need to get the large nut lose. It holds the fan/fan clutch to the water pump shaft. After you get that off it's all down hill from there.A large adjustable wrench will work on the nut but you will need to keep pump from turning to loosen it. I think it may be left hand thread. It is not on real tight. The book will help on this one.

Q: My water pump is sitting very close if not rubbing against the case. There were shavings and a groove. Would this cause it to knock? Also would this blow up the lower end? One more, Should it be in the center or offset twards the top?: Perhaps one of the shaft's retainers, the bearing, or gear is worn, allowing the water pump shaft to move in and out of the case - causing the impeller to rub on the outer cover. Try to pull the water pump out and push it in - there shouldn't be any play. If there is, figure out why. If the impeller can move in and out, that would cause it to knock. If there were any metal shavings in the coolant, they would scrape the outer cover. The water pump cover isn't an even shape, so I don't know what you mean by should it be in the center The bottom end and the cooling system are 2 separate entities. A problem with one will not affect the other.

Q: I got my oil changed yesterday and took like a 3 hour drive and back home and had no issues.. today I was at my work visiting and I noticed smoke coming from the engine [sort of more of steam] and a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust. The light on the gauge inside the car for the engine temp isn't working but all the other ones are. A mechanic told me it was a bad water pump, but I just want some more opinions. Or if the oil change could of effected that.. My engine coolant wasn't that low but a greenish liquid was really leaking from underneath the car.: An oil change does not make a water pump go bad. Nor does the lack on an oil change. They just go bad over time. Just because there was steam like smoke coming from the exhaust system does not mean there is a water pump problem (water is a natural by product of combustion). Now the green fluid does mean that you have a coolant leak. But that could be because the reservoir was over filled when the engine was serviced. Some shops top off all fluids, and if the tank is over filled the excess has to go some where. But if could be a bad water pump. If so there will be water coming from the weep hole on the water pump. It could also be a bad hose. So unless I craw under it and take a good look, I don't know. If you do replace the water pump, and you have a timing belt that can be replaced, spring for the extra parts because in many cases the labor is already being paid for and the parts are less expensive then the labor at a later date. FYI: I do water pumps every other belt replacement for this reason.

Q: Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.: PUMP 1.

Q: I have a toyota supra 83 Mechanic said water pump is leaking into engine causing white smoke. He said that hell have to replace water pump nd all gaskets estimated about 500+$ is this accurate? Also water resevoir mysteriously loses water can it be a symptom?: The water pump may be leaking causing the coolant loss. But it is certainly not leaking into the engine. You may have misunderstood the mechanic's explanation of the problem. Where is the white smoke coming from? The engine compartment? Then the water pump may actually be leaking coolant into the engine compartment and onto the exhaust manifold. If the white smoke is coming out the exhaust, it's not your water pump. Car repairs are more expensive today because they are more complex and shops prey on the lack of knowledge that car owner's have about their cars. You wil be charged for the VALUE of the repair, not the actual COST (plus a reasonable profit) of repair. You'll pay about 2x-3x the retail price of the water pump than you would have paid if you bought the water pump yourself. Without that water pump, your car is junk. My daughter paid $700+ to have a $149 alternator replaced.

Q: I have a 2002 Honda Civic Ex sedan with about 105k miles. Sometime before 110k I need to get the timing belt replaced. At about 95k my mechanic asked if I wanted to replace the timing belt and the water pump. According to the owners manual the timing belt must be replaced, but it simply says check the water pump.I don't want to pay for unnecessary repairs, but I also know that both of these jobs are quite involved, but can be done together fairly easily. Is there anything I can do to check myself or do I just have to trust my mechanic when I take it in. Also, what is the cost difference between the timing belt job and adding in the water pump at the same time?: additional cost on parts, water pump. for labor, no extra charge for it, since the area is already open, you may ask mechanic to install water pump together with timing belt, bargain with the mechanic...

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