NFWG Non Negative Pressure Frequency Convention Water Supply Equipment
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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NFWG series non negative pressure frequency convention water supply equipment is a new type frequency convention equipment. There are two types. One is cabinet model equipment, the other is tank model equipment. The equipment can be connected to the municipal water supply network where the pressure is not high enough. Use sensor to detect the outlet pressure and compare with the setting value to calculate the pressure needed to be boosted, pump quantity, motor rotation. The equipment can make full use of the original pressure of the municipal water supply network. It will not cause negative pressure of the municipal water supply network. It uses the stainless steel non negative pressure tank to replace the old pool to avoid second pollution. It is the new general energy saving product in the water supply industry.
Main application
1. Residential water supply: High building, residential area, villa, etc.
2. Public places: Hospital, university, gymnasium, golf course, airport, etc.
3. Commercial building: Hotel, office building, department store, large-scale sauna center.
4. Irrigation: Park, playing round, garden, farm, etc.
5. Manufacturing industry: Manufacturing, lavation equipment, food industry, factory, etc.
6. Other: Rebuild of water pool or other form.
Features
1. Non-negative pressure
The system can connect to the municipal water supply system to boost it and will not cause negative pressure for the municipal water supply system.
2. High quality, PC controls:
Invented by us, have multi-function, can supply high standard precise control. It arrives to the advance level in the world.
3. Boosting
When the equipment is running, it can use the pressure that water supply network supplies and boost base on this, Compared to suck water from the normal water pool, it can use less pump or lower the rotation to save energy.
4. Not stop water supply when power is off
When the power supply is out off power, system can supply water with 747D and. Bypass, etc, that is, system can supply water with the municipal water supply pressure.
5. Clean
The flow parts are all stainless steel which is the material of food grade, it is conform to the international water related rules. The cabinet type non-negative device can ensure the water in the cabinet to be circulated by the usage of residents. The closed type non-negative device can circulate real-timely to ensure the safety of the water.
6. Energy saving
The system needs not the water pool etc. To store the water, which save the space. The system works high efficiently, which can save 60% energy. There is pressure of the municipal water network. When running, the system only need to boost on the pressure of municipal water network. The system need not to be monitored by people, and need not the water pool, etc. And there is no water quality handling machine. It is not needed to be cleaned and disinfected timely. So energy saving is obvious
- Q: Pump flow 6M3/H is an hour, how many tons of water?
- 1.5KW pump if the head 90 meters, then the flow of 2 tons, more than the most
- Q: How to measure the temperature of pump body?
- Buy an infrared thermometer
- Q: I would like information to use an automotive water pump to ( or possibly another device ) to pump water approximately 60 feet (20 meters) elevation from creek without electricity. I only need enough water for 25 chickens. So we are not talking about a households supply of water.
- a car water pump is run off a belt like your alternator etc so you would really be able to use its not a pump that u can just stick anywhere. if it is only to feed 25 chooks then it wouldnt hurt to just fetch them a bucket of water of every morning that would do.
- Q: Question for you. I'm looking for a 12v (no AC converter, please) water pump to drive up to 4 water misters. Needs to run off the battery, without an AC converter (already found those). The pump will pull from a water reservoir and provide cooling relief on hot days through the misters. BTW... the pump should be reasonably small, limited to a few pounds...If you have any ideas, please advise.Thanks again,Robert
- Again, I'm going to make you work for this one. Call around to junk yards. See if they have any parts you can use. There's a bunch of Pull Apart places where you can look up online to see if they have any particular part you're looking for. I don't know how much a typical automobile water pump weighs, but I don't imagine it would be too big. Ask around. If you know any mechanics, or just people who work on cars as a hobby, they may know. Sorry I'm not much help in the automotive department. I can put gas in it, start it, change my oil, and change a tire. But as far as the rest goes, I don't know too much.
- Q: What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?
- drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do
- Q: I'm not too familiar with computerized cars, just wondering if the water pump going out would cause the car not to start?
- No. Do you have power? Battery, alternator. Does it crank? Starter, solenoid, wiring, ignition. If all the above is ok, then what's left is air, fuel, and fire. You need all these to have a running vehicle. Fuel system-pump, filter, pressure regolator... Air-filter, maf sensor... Fire- plugs, wires, cap/rotor...
- Q: I have a 1990 GMC K1500 Sierra and about 1 week ago I went to check the anti-freeze level. I noticed it was a tiny bit down. So I look down at the lower radiator hose and it had a slow drip. So the next day I changed the anti-freeze, New thermostat, and a New lower radiator hose. So I thought it was fine but yesterday I went to go check the anti-freeze and the level was down. I look at the lower radiator hose and it has a slow drip again. The hose I replace was Brand New. Could this be a water pump? I did notice a tiny bit of anti-freeze on the water pump. Or what could this be or do I have to change the hose again?
- here,s what to do. when it,s dripping look under the car and see if it,s running down the hose. it could be coming from the top of the hose like maybe the top clamp is,nt tight enough or it could be coming from the water pump. if it turns out to be the hose then do like i do. i put some ( indian head shellac ) around the inside of the hoses then i put it on. that will stop it from leaking if it,s the hose.
- Q: first off i should say it is below freezing here....with that said, the water pump pulley is not turnning so.. the fan belt busted which leads me to believe the water pump is frozen...... right?i am currently traveling and have little money to spend on a new water pumpis there any way that anyone may know to dethaw a frozen water pump without damaging it?... i should say, the motor is running great, no cracks or leaks from the cold.
- if you dont have antifreeze,youre screwed.if you do,you probably need a new waterpump.
- Q: I have a 2000 chevy impala with 85K on it. I have heard/a weird rattle noise from under the hood for some time now. I once asked about it on here and got suggestions regarding front end problems. I had that checked out and the front end is good. I still have the rattle noise along with a high pitched, but not very loud, squeeling noise when I accelerate. I am leaking coolant and it seems to be coming from near one of the belts. Is this a bad water pump? If so how expensive of a fix is it and how involved of a repair is it?
- It sounds like a water pump or maybe a loose connection. It is probably time for a water pump if it hasn't been replaced yet. Parts will run under $60 and it probably involves an hour of labor. The Impala is a big car, it shouldn't be hard to get to and remove. Taking it to a shop will run under $100-$150 for everything.
- Q: In this area (picture) its leaking quite a bit of coolant underneath the car it is heavy dripping. Could it be the water pump? Car is over heating .It almost looks like its missing a screw or something where the coolant is dripping.
- You're trouble could be one among two.....The gauge cluster could be bad and want exchanged out(the dealer does no longer restore them),or the gasoline sender(or flow/level sensor)which is attatched the the gasoline pump(does no longer include pump)could be inaccurate.The vendor or repair facility easily makes use of your old sender when changing the pump(which is a dumb thing to do once they have already got the tank out of the auto).And oh incidentally........A GMC is nothing more than a re-badged Chevrolet....And were considering that 1996 once they stopped making GMC seperate on the truck and bus plant and diverted all manufacturing to the Chevrolet crops....Equal construction line,distinctive title plates,do not let anybody fool you about GMC being reliable grade,no more durability...Just more money !
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NFWG Non Negative Pressure Frequency Convention Water Supply Equipment
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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