• Mobile Trailer Type  Horizontal Axial/Mixed Flow Water Pump System 1
  • Mobile Trailer Type  Horizontal Axial/Mixed Flow Water Pump System 2
  • Mobile Trailer Type  Horizontal Axial/Mixed Flow Water Pump System 3
Mobile Trailer Type  Horizontal Axial/Mixed Flow Water Pump

Mobile Trailer Type Horizontal Axial/Mixed Flow Water Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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                Horizontal Axial/Mixed Flow Water Pump for Pump Station

1.Structure of  Horizontal Axial/Mixed Flow Water Pump Description

HW Axial/Mixed-flow pump is a horizontal pump,It is driven by diesel engine,it widely used for pump station for flood control,irrigation and drainage.

 

2.Main Features of Horizontal Axial/Mixed Flow Water Pump

• Simple structure, reliable, easy fitting, and high efficiency, small body, light weight

Transmission: direct drive and variable speed drives

• Operation stably,high efficiency

•Convenient installation and maintenance

Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

3.Vertical Submersible Axial Flow / Mixed Flow Water Pump Images

 Mobile Trailer Type  Horizontal Axial/Mixed Flow Water Pump

 

 

4.Vertical Submersible Axial Flow / Mixed Flow Water Pump Specification

Material

Cast Iron

Capacity

45-20000m3/hr

Discharge

3.7-20m

5.FAQ

①What is the applications?

The pumps are used in flood dewatering application, water supplying and dewatering in urban area, storm-water drainage, agriculture and industry water supplying, water transfering etc.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance. Normally, We have 1 year warranty.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. It related to the state and detailed requirement of customers.

 

Q: My 2005 Lexus IS300 is close to 90K miles and I believe the timing belt/water pump should be replaced. I have priced this with several dealers and mechanics and at this time I can't afford close to $1000 to have this done. However, I see there are kits that can be purchased for about $400.Can a DIY'er with above average mechanical experience replace the belt nd pump relatively easily?
The fact that you've posed that question here is a pretty fair indicator that you will NOT have an easy time trying to do this work. And actually $1k is not a bad price for this type of repair. If you make a mistake while performing this work yourself the consequences could be very, very severe, i.e., completely blowing your engine. If I were you, I'd rely on public transportation until I could save the requisite $1k to have a shop do the repair.
Q: Two sewage pumps switch from each other, start with float switch control, the first sump, when the water is full, the first start, the second rotation to second units start, so the cycle of alternating
Do you mean that 2 pumps are used in a hole? With float switch control, plus time relay 24 hours, every 12 hours at will, you set time, seconds, minutes can be
Q: my car ran hot a few times, its a 2006 chevy impala LS with about 50k miles.I do alot of driving but never had a problem until now. I took it to get an oil change and they said that I need a new water pump. I really dont know what that means but im afraid to drive my car until i get a new pump. i called around a few auto places and no one has the part. I called the chevy dealer and they said part and labor is $600. any suggestions of other places i can check for the part? can i still drive my car in the mean time? is it safe?are water pumps usually that expensive?
2006 Impala Water Pump
Q: Where is the water pump located in a 1995 Toyota tacoma pick up truck. Please be as specific as possible as the the location of the pump. Like what is it undwr or next to...etc
Look at the fan and you'll see a pulley...it's attached behind that pulley. You're gonna have to remove the fan and shroud, remove the belt, remove the pulley and then remove the water pump, clean the gasket surface, and install the new one the same in reverse.
Q: My water pump broke on my volkswagen golf tdi so I took it to a garage. He charged me ?250 for a new pump and fitting. When I came to collect it he showed me the broken water pump, when I asked if I could keep the broken pump that was taken out of my car he said that there would be quite a quot;heftysurcharge for me to take it with me because they have to send them back to Volkswagen. I thought it was a bit strange. Is that normal?
He would have charged you a core charge (sometimes more than the replacement part costs). A lot of companies refurbish old parts and require you to turn in the bad part so they can repair it.
Q: I've bleed the lines, and gotten rid of all the air bubbles. I've replaced the thermostat correctly, (triple checked) and I don't think it's the water pump because it isn't leaking what so ever. My temperature gauge is not moving what so ever, and the coolant reservoir over flows heavily, and I can hear a thumping sound in the radiator.
Its gonna' take some doin' === Drain the radiator..remove the thermostat..fill the radiator with water and radiator flush chemical..run the motor..until hot..either with the Radiator Cap--ON or OFF.. If you left the radiator cap installed..the engine will need to cool down--to remove it.. Flushing your motor with the radiator cap removed offers time savings.. === Yet..the radiator might over-flow during the flushing. cedure.. === Stand away from the car..and be ready to turn off the motor.. ..safely drain all the flushed material..refill with fresh water and drain out(no need to start thre motor).. === Now..look at your thermostat..does it have a tiny little hole in the flange area.. The flange is the flat portion that supports the opening and allows a place to seal the gasket--there should be a tiny bleeder hole..that's not in the gasket portion.. It allows some coolant to flow--freely.. I once bought a thermostat that was missing the bleeder hole.. I used a tiny drill to replace that item..tiny hole like THIN Spagetti/..so fluid can escape thru thre system.. === With that in mind--get the system back together..check for leaks..//[end]
Q: Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ what is different, why not the same?
60Hz pump and 50Hz pump itself is not much difference, just that the motor speed, the rated speed is 3600 rpm, 1200 rpm, 1800 rpm, the latter is generally 3000, 1500, 1000 etc.. If it is to use the same pump, the difference is that the 60Hz motor pump flow is 50Hz, motor water pump flow of 1.2 times, the lift is 1.2*1.2=1.44 times, power is 1.2*1.2*1.2=1.728 times. So in the actual manufacture, especially some relatively large flow lift pumps, pump motor using 60Hz to use 50Hz thicker than the spindle motor of the pump impeller, the difference between the two, in addition to empty size shaft is different, what basically no difference. As for the data of package angle, the water conservancy models of different factories are different, but I don't know whether there is any difference between them. Most of them make no difference. However, if you want to use the 60Hz pump to achieve the same flow rate as the 50Hz pump, the impeller of the former should be cut to 0.833 times the size of the latter.
Q: The pump works and water goes to the house from the reserve tanks but there can be long delays before it cuts in after mains pressure is lost. After it stops the pressure gauge falls back slowly to zero. Pressure vessel is a sphere has a valve on top. Any suggestions ?
Sorry I don't know the Espa make but the theory is the same...if the pressure falls once the pump stops,that sounds like a leak in the lines somewhere (most probably the foot valve needs repacement.the fact that the pressure falls to 0 lbs would mean either that the pressure switch is not set properly or it also needs replacement.normal settings for household systems are either cut in at 20lb cut out at 40lbs or cut in at 30lbs and cut out at 50lbs.Check your pressure tank if its got a bladder it should be pressurized to 2lbs below cut in pressure this should be done with the pump off and no water pressure.IF your tank is a non bladder model empty it completly and then prime and restart the pump.
Q: I have a water pump that works with 12V and 2 amps.I was thinking to get a potentiometer to be able to slow down the speed.Is this the best way to do it? What wattage should it have, so it doesn't burn out, and what should be the maximum resistance, to be able to stop the pump completely?And OKorder or product link would be great!Thanks!
A potentiometer will work, and this could be wired in series with the pump as long as its minimum resistance was zero ohms. You can also use an adjustable voltage regulator which would likely be more energy efficient but a more complex device. A potentiometer or regulator would need to have a minimal rating of 12V * 2A = 24 watts. A potentiometer, that is made for 12 volt applications, should be available at a local auto parts store. It has a simple, ceramic insulated, wire-wound resistor, and should have a 5 to 10 amp rating Sources below are to more sophisticated controllers than a simple potentiometer.
Q: I have a 2000 chevy impala with 85K on it. I have heard/a weird rattle noise from under the hood for some time now. I once asked about it on here and got suggestions regarding front end problems. I had that checked out and the front end is good. I still have the rattle noise along with a high pitched, but not very loud, squeeling noise when I accelerate. I am leaking coolant and it seems to be coming from near one of the belts. Is this a bad water pump? If so how expensive of a fix is it and how involved of a repair is it?
It sounds like a water pump or maybe a loose connection. It is probably time for a water pump if it hasn't been replaced yet. Parts will run under $60 and it probably involves an hour of labor. The Impala is a big car, it shouldn't be hard to get to and remove. Taking it to a shop will run under $100-$150 for everything.

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