Inline Pump
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- Loading Port:
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- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
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- Supply Capability:
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Removable Pump Application
Apply as the transportation of liquids in the fields of air condition, heating, sanitary water, water treatment cooling, refrigerating system, liquid circulation, water supply, pressure boosting,sea water delivery and irrigation etc.
Removable Pump Working Conditions
Rotating speed: 3600r/min, 1800r/min, 2960r/min, 1480r/min
Medium: clean water or other liquids similar to clean water in physical and chemical properties
Medium temperature: -10 ~ 80°C,400°C available under special design
Ambient temperature: Up to 40°C
Range of capacity:1.8~2000m3/h
Range of head: up to230m
Maximum working pressure: suction pressure+head of pump≤25 bar
Removable Pump Construction
Casing/impeller:cast iron,stainless steel,copper,bronze
Shaft:carbon steel 45#,stainless steel
Mechnical seal:graphite/silicon carbide/tungsten carbide
Removable Pump Structure Description
Compact structure, most application for modern constructions.
1.Pump casing: the spiral casing with pipe connection is designed and manufactured by the most superior bydraulic model nowadays, with inlet and outlet the same diameter. Flanges conform to GB4216.5, and are equipped with Rp1/4 or Rp 3/8 pressure testing nozzle
2.Impeller: closed impeller ,no limit to rotation direction under the water temperature below 80°C and 120°C.
3.Special design of dynamic seal ring ensure well seal and reliable operation..
Removable Pump Advantages
1.Coupling coupled, vibration proof and low noise.
2.Same diameter of inlet and outlet inline,the angle between inlet and outlet can be 270O C , 90O C
3.C&U bearing ,which is the most famous brand in China.
4.Circulating flow cooling ensure mechnical seal long life .
5.Small foundation required that will saving construction investment by 50-70%.
6.Excellent seal that is no leakage
Motor
TEFC air-cooled squirrel cage, 3 phase asynchronous motor.
Voltage: 220V,380V,400V,415V,440V,480V,660V(other voltage ,pls inform before order)
Frequency: 50Hz,60Hz
Insulation : IP44/IP54/IP55
Protection class: B/F
Insulation modes: B5/V1
Notice: Special motor can be man made .
Removable Pump Structure & Material
standar cast iron,SS as option
- Q: looking for the comparison and then finaly the conclusion about the water pumps instaaled in the IC engines. Where we should stick to the tradional mechanical driven water pumps or electrical water pumps? which one is better!! any information/ response is appreciated
- The belt driven pump is operating all the time the engine is running. This takes some of the HP of the engine and causes wear and tear of the belt and the pump. The electric driven water pump is operated on demand from the water thermostat and only runs when the water temp. rises above the setting and shuts off again on returning to the setting. Saves engine HP and pump wear and tear...It's much more efficient.
- Q: I'm just wondering where I should buy my new water pump for my 2.2 cavalier? Auto zone, carquest, checker? Does it matter which one?Thanks
- It does make a difference. Autozone and the other discount places carry cheap poorly made items. Go to NAPA.
- Q: I have a 1997 Saturn SL2 and I was wondering how much would it be to replace the water pump? Would it be less expensive if I took it to a neighborhood mechanic instead a more popular one like Goodyear or something? Thanks for looking.
- i just replaced my water pump on my jeep, the whole water pump kit was about $59.99 with lifetime warranty, most mechanics charge alot to do it, i did it myself, you just need a water pump, gasket, coolant draining pan, bottle of coolant and the procedure is pretty easy
- Q: I'm trying to sell my 97 Ford Escort. It needs a water pump but I have no idea what the cost is. I just want to know so I can post an estimate of how much it costs on the site I'm selling it on.
- We all know what you want to use that water pump for.
- Q: 1988 fleet wood prowler 22HJust bought it, first time camper owner. I need a battery and a water pump. I only want to buy one, but don't want an overpriced pump. Preferably one I could find at a chain store locally. Can anyone recommend a good one? Also, is there anything I should know before I take my camper to a rv hook up site? I have a pressure regulator that will twist on my spicket on the outside of my camper. Do I need any other kind of regulator, or hose, besides my pump before I go hook up?Can I hookup without a pump? The pipe is capped off where the pump would go. Thanks!
- If you are connected to a campsite water supply you do not need a pump. The pump is only required to deliver water from the fresh water tank of your camper to the faucets and if equipped toilet of your camper when you are not connected to City water, ya I know I have probably been connected to an actual City water supply 4 days in over 10 years of trailer camping... but any campground water supply is referred to as a city supply in the trailer literature. The only accessory I recommend to have is a combination filter which will stop both sediment ( very common in campground water lines ) and secondary charcoal filter which will reduce both taste and chemical intrusions on your system / palate. Would I buy a basic system demand pump? Yes, but if the cost of the pump stands between your camping season and your camping plans for the season, cancel the pump and camp!
- Q: I tried using my water line with a pressure tank and pressure switch but without a pressure tank I observed that when he pressure reaches 30 psi the motor pump switches off automatically and when we open the faucets to use water the pressure switch turns on again the motor pump.
- rodolfo, no its not economical. a pressure tank is an integral part of a pressure system - think of it as a storage tank allowing you to use water at a preset pressure without running out instantly. a pressure tank will hold a certain amount of pressurized water to allow proper use -
- Q: My water pump is starting to leak. The shops are quoting $250- $300 to replace but I can buy a water pump at the auto parts store and install myself for less than $100 but I don't know what all is involved with this repair or if I should try (my only experience with car repair up to now is recently replacing the alternator). If anyone has done this please let me know what you think. thanks
- you can make it even easier by purchasing a hayne's manual for your car when you buy the water pump. you will need it anyway so you can have the proper torque specs and sequence when reinstalling the new water pump. so if you don't have a torque wrench you will need to rent one. the first step of course will be to drain your cooling system. then use masking tape and a sharpie to number any connectors or hoses you have to remove to access the water pump. once the old one is off make sure to clean every trace of gasket material from the mating flange. then when you are ready to reinstall put a thin coat (use you fingers to spread)of rtv silicone to each side of the new gasket this will help hold in place. then here's where you will need the book insert the bolts and tighten them in sequence shown to the proper torque unless you want to chance cracking the new pump housing. on a car this old if it has not already been done now would be a good time to replace hoses (esp. if they are soft) and your thermostat since you've already got the cooling system drained. once everything is reassembled start the engine and begin pouring in the new coolant, if there are any bleed screws open these it's very important to get all the air out of the system if there are no bleed screws you can leave the cap off the radiator or expansion tank (you'll need to anyway) since one you think its filled when the thermostat opens its all gonna drain down and you'll have to top it off again. here is a good time to pay attention as it approaches normal operating temp be ready to start pouring as soon as the level starts to drop that will help keep more air from getting in. any questions feel free to e-mail me
- Q: Which is the better option for a home water pump? a submersible pump or floor based pump?
- In case of pump failure, it's much easier to repair/replace a floor based pump plumbed with isolation valves and unions. I've replaced a few due to motor failures and flood damage. Arguably, the submersible pump wouldn't have suffered damage due to flooding. Another consideration is vertical pump height. A floor based pump has to draw a vacuum to induce water to flow up to the impeller. This limits the practical draw to between 25 and 30 ft. Much more than that height and the vacuum will exceed the vapor pressure of the the water, boiling it rather than pumping it. A special device can be used to boost the lift: an ejector is placed down the well. Water is pumped down to the ejector, which pulls additional water back up using the venturi effect. This method suffers from additional friction losses but has clear advantages. If you need to pump water up a well more than 20 feet vertical, you should consider a submersible pump, particularly if you are concerned about the possibility of the water table lowering.
- Q: Do you need a stop valve for the pump at home?
- Pump used at home do not take the water stop valve, the water level is too low, it can not pump up. In addition, there is no stop valve, not immediately pumping water, will have to wait a short time.The valve is actually a floating ball valve, when water is accumulated to a certain height, the float top, open the valve linkage; row water, reduce the water level, the valve is automatically closed, it realizes automatic drainage to steam pipeline.
- Q: I am leaking antifreeze, but only when the car is sitting after it has been running for a while, and its quite frustrating..it's coming around where the hoses are, I just got the thermostat/thermostat housing replaced, and also the heater hose and it seems to be coming from the same general area AS those...My car doesn't leak all the time it seems, so I'm not sure what this could mean. It has not over heated, my ac isn't also working at all.I have taken it back to the mechanic two times in the last 2 days and they cannot determine it's having a leak or not..which is quite ridiculous!! It seems to them that they think I'm crazy or something, I just don't like to see antifreeze underneath my car, I mean who does? Does this sound like a water pump? Where exactly is the waterpump located?
- i think this might be work on how to check if the water pump is in bad condition, first run your car for about 20 min or 30 min until it became hot. then look at your water pump while your engine is still running. if you noticed that there's a steam rolling off then it needs to be change or replace. or if you see that there's a leak. what you need to do is to look at it while the engine is running. then you will know if it is in bad condition.
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Inline Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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