HH Series Industrial Heavy Duty Slurry Pump

HH Series Industrial Heavy Duty Slurry Pump System 1

HH Series Industrial Heavy Duty Slurry Pump System 2

HH Series Industrial Heavy Duty Slurry Pump

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Specifications

Low head rugged heavy duty slurry pump
1.Steady in operation
2.High in efficiency
3.OEM welcomed
4.ISO9001,CE

HH Series Industrial heavy duty slurry pump

Description:
ZJ series slurry pump is horizontal single-stage, single-suction and double case centrifugal slurry pump. Adopting solid-liquid two-phase flow velocity ratio, ZJ series slurry pump can convert the energy between sold and liquid sufficiently in the pump casting; also improves erosion of the flowing parts.

With advanced water-power design, reasonable structure and highly corrosion- resistant materials, ZJ slurry pumps have high-efficiency, good-cavitation-capability, long-lifespan, work-reliable advantages, etc.

Features:

1. Outlet diameter:40mm~350mm

2. Impeller diameter:17~100cm

3. Flux (Capacity):4~2500m³/h

4. Lift (Head):9-130m

5. Pressure:Up to 6900Kpa

6. Motor Power:0.55~80kw

7. Product Standard:JB/T8096-1998

FAQ

Who we are?

WE ARE THE BEST IN INDUSTIRAL PUMP FIELD IN CHINA! We are one of the earliest and most professional centrifugla pump manufacturer in China. Also we are the only one slurry pump company in China who has Vacuum casting workshop. In China, 40% listed mining companies have been using our pumps for many years. At abroad, we have finished many many pump projects in Africa, South East Asia, South America. We have agents in Europer, Australia, USA, Canada etc.

Why choose us?

WE ARE THE BEST IN INDUSTRIAL PUMP FIELD IN CHINA! We have the most full equipment and strict test procedure to guarranty our product quality. From producing to assemble, installation, we do exactly as the international standard. Not only competetive price, but also the fast lead time and service is great helpful to the users or our agents.

Q: my basement flooded and the water came in contact with the wiring on my water pump.Now the pump tries to turn on but shuts off without pumping any water.How do i get my pump pumping water again?: sounds like the bearings locked up...best to replace it

Q: Water pumps are always pumping water, what's the matter?: First check whether the water pump suction gas 2 check the negative pressure of the pump suction is too low 3 check whether the water pump 4 no problem of opening the pump head to check whether the water pump impeller damage

Q: Have a Toyota RAV4. About 156, 000 miles on it.Yesterday as I started driving, there was a sound coming from underthe hood that sounded similar to a stick in bicycle spokes. Got to theend of the block and stopped and noticed there was smoke comingfrom below the belts.Got back to the house and the temp was up really high. No fluid.Added fluid and water and it was leaking, but not from the radiatoritself, but from towards the back of the engine?Might this be the water pump?: Nope, could be a bad heater hose that burst. Could be an engine gasket but it will be more issues. I am more inclined if is like you described towards the back of the engine, is the water hose for the heater or the valve that controls the flow.

Q: Looking for a pro's advice here. My Corolla has developed a strange noise over the past few cold weeks (Highs of 10 degrees max, well below zero at night). The sound would best be described as a cricket-type rythmic chirp noticable during acceleration. I don't believe it's a belt because it comes and goes though it has steadily gotten louder. I vaguely remember this sound being related to a bad water pump I had a few years ago. Do you think this could be the same thing? Three years for a water pump? And do water pumps tend to go out more frequently in the cold weather? Thanks!!!: You can do a prelimary check on the water pump. The water pump on this vehicle is not internally driven so the pulley is exposed outside the timing cover. Grab hold of the pulley and try to push it back and forth. There should not be any noticeable play. If there is, the pump is bad. Could it go out in three years? Sure it can especially if the pump previously installed was remanufactured and not brand new. If still in doubt, remove the water pump belt and start the engine. If the noise is still there, then the pump is not the problem. I live on a tropical island, so I can't help with the weather question, but I believe if you use the right type of antifreeze in the right mix ratio there should be no additional wear on the pump in cold weather. The thermostat should keep the engine at normal operating temperature regardless of the outside temperature (except for while it's warming up initially). Good luck!!

Q: 1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :): When all these pumps were replaced, were they new pumps or remanufactured pumps? It makes a difference in the quality and longevity. Spring for the new pump, preferably from Ford. The impeller problem was on the 2.5 liter V6 Contour, they are plastic and tend to scatter under load. As far as the gauge goes, it is normal on the four cylinder Contour for the hand to be between the M and the L in normal on the gauge. All of the 4 cylinder Contours are like this and the vehicle is not overheating. There is a TSB from Ford concerning the gauge, the TSB number is 98-21-3, the dealer can pull it up and let you look at it.

Q: s10 blazer with 130k original miles.. is leaking water but not from the water pump... just replaced it and still leaking from the same area... where are the freeze plugs located? where else could it be leaking from? it lools like its coming from harmonic balancer or close by!!: look at the housing that the water pump bolts to ,it may be busted and there's some of the bolts that go all the way through in to the block if those wasn't coated with sealant it will still leak from the bolts that hold the water pump on,and that will make it appear to be leaking from the front cover,you got two freeze plugs in the front and three down each side,good luck with it,

Q: I need to fit a booster pump to increase pressure from a gravity fed vented solar water heater (uses vacuum tubes).The problem is that the temperature of the water from the solar panel can be very high - in fact it could boil under some circumstances. It's safe because the system is vented.As the quot;solarwater feeds existing water heaters in the house, diluting the hot with some cold prior to the pump with an automatic mixer valve is not really an attractive option as we want to gather as much hot water as possible.Can anyone tell me where to get a booster pump that can operate at up to 100 Deg C, delivering 2 bar pressure and about 25 liters per minute. Thanks.: Well, you have to have a mixer valve if your temps are over 140F If I understand you correctly, you could put your mixer valve on the gravity fed hot water and then the output of the mixer valve goes to the inlet of a pump that can handle 140F. Then you don't need a mixer on the hot water tank in the house. And finding a pump that can handle that temp will be a lot easier. Also, storing high temp water is very inefficient. The higher the delta Temp is from the water to the ambient surroundings, then the lower the efficiency. You could save just as much energy in the water by increasing your water tank size and lowering your temp. For instance a 100 gallons of water close to boiling has the same stored energy as 150 gallons of 140F water. And you don't need a mixer at that point and you don't need a special pump either. I'm assuming you are using storage on the roof with a thermosyphon? Can you add more water storage next to that one?

Q: 2000 3.3L engine. I understand,depending on engine year, it can be a very difficult job. Is this the one or is it much more difficult on the 3.0 L ? One involves timing belt ? Help ? Thanks' Ken: The 3.0L has the timing belt so I think you got the easier engine

Q: 1988 fleet wood prowler 22HJust bought it, first time camper owner. I need a battery and a water pump. I only want to buy one, but don't want an overpriced pump. Preferably one I could find at a chain store locally. Can anyone recommend a good one? Also, is there anything I should know before I take my camper to a rv hook up site? I have a pressure regulator that will twist on my spicket on the outside of my camper. Do I need any other kind of regulator, or hose, besides my pump before I go hook up?Can I hookup without a pump? The pipe is capped off where the pump would go. Thanks!: If you are connected to a campsite water supply you do not need a pump. The pump is only required to deliver water from the fresh water tank of your camper to the faucets and if equipped toilet of your camper when you are not connected to City water, ya I know I have probably been connected to an actual City water supply 4 days in over 10 years of trailer camping... but any campground water supply is referred to as a city supply in the trailer literature. The only accessory I recommend to have is a combination filter which will stop both sediment ( very common in campground water lines ) and secondary charcoal filter which will reduce both taste and chemical intrusions on your system / palate. Would I buy a basic system demand pump? Yes, but if the cost of the pump stands between your camping season and your camping plans for the season, cancel the pump and camp!

Q: I am new to saltwater tank, and i what to add a sump to my tank, but I don't know what to add to it. what water pump? do i add the filter to the sump or does the filter stay in the tank.: you do no longer use siphons to flow water to the sump, you employ an overflow and pipes. the point of having the overflow in a tank with a sump is that the pass between the two tanks would be even. while the water is pumped returned to the tank and reaches a definite point that water will then pass returned to the sump. If the capability will fail then the pump will end working, so no water would be moved returned into the tank, no water will overflow returned. the priority with 2 pumps would be that no 2 pumps are comparable. One pump is 2 hundred gallons consistent with hour, the different is 199, next one is 195 regardless of being from an identical authentic line and type. So in case you have a 2 hundred and 199 GPH you will finally end up with the two the tank or the sump spilling after some hours.

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