HW Horizontal Mixed Flow Pump

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: -

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

Vertical Turbine Pump

High Pressure Water Pump

Water Pump For Water Wells

WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump

CQB-F Fluorine Plastic Magnetic Acid Pump

Horizontal Singlestage Fire Fighting Pumping Unit D series

1. Purpose:
Model HW pump is a horizontal single stage single suction volute mixed flow pump and suitable for transporting pure water or the other liquid with both physical and chemical natures similar to those of water, with the temperature of the liquid to be transported not over 50 , for the farm land irrigation, industrial and city water supply and drainage etc. multiple places.The pumps performance range: flow 130~9000m /h, head 3.5~22m.
2. Features:
Simple structure, reliable use, easy installation, high efficiency, small body, light weight.

3. Mode of actuation:
Direct and variable actuations. The common movers are motor and diesel engine. Please note the model (power, rotating speed) of the mover so as to make sure of the norms of the clutch or the belt pulley .
4. Water pump direction:
Viewing from the pump inlet, the impeller rotates counter-clockwise generally (clockwise with 650HW-5, -7, -10 pump).
5. Feature:
1. Model HW pump mainly consists of pump cover , impeller, pump casing, shaft, muff and bearing body (aperture 350mm) or bearing stand (aperture 400mm) etc. parts (Fig.1
and 2).
2. The pump cover is connected to the pump casing and the water-in pipe separately. There should a proper interval between the planes of both pump cover and impeller , too small
interval will produce friction; while too big will cause the pressured water inside of the pump to flow back greatly to have the pump efficiency lowered. The practically used proper interval is 0.3~0.7mm (push the pump shaft to the pump inlet) and the interval can be adjusted through increasing or decreasing the paper pad thickness.

Q: My timing belt is worn but has not broken yet. The mechanic first told me it would be about $200-250 to replace the belt. Then he called back and said it was going to be $550 because on an Aveo you have to replace the water pump at the same time. I asked if it was possible to do just the belt and he said quot;well the water pump will probably break when we take it outquot;. Is this a sign that I should just break down and go to a dealership so that my water pump won't quot;breakupon removal?: He is saying that, because the water pump is driven by the timing belt and you SHOULD replace it while you are in there. Why pay twice down the road? Sure the belt can be done without doing the pump, the fact that he said the pump will break when doing a belt is complete bullsh*t though. There is no need to do anything to the pump when changing the belt other than taking the belt off the pulley. That's it. Generally, I just add maybe .5 hrs to the labor for the belt when doing the pump also, DOUBLE doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Unless he is worried about pump BOLTS snapping from CORROSION (that may be it) when removing the actual water pump, that is the only thing that can possibly justify doubling the labor, they may be in water jackets in the block. He should, however, make you aware that that is a possibility and not automatically assume that will happen and charge you for it. Depends, if they are careful with the removal, it should just add another 20-30 minutes to the timing belt job. Either way if you turn down the pump and they are telling you it will still break(?), go somewhere else. I work on cars everyday and would never charge someone an additional 300 dollars off the bat assuming the bolts will break. There are tricks to prevent that as well (penetrating fluid/PB Blaster). Generally if that does happen, one maybe two bolts would break tops and that still doesn't justify the additional labor... Hope that helps....

Q: i installed a new pump don't know how to increase water pressure and to what what pressure it should be set: This is very simple i would sugest the pressure to be set betwene 60 to 70 NO MORE THAN 70. 1. turn off power to pump (ether the circut breaker or a switch near the pressure switch) you dont want to weld the wrench to the switch. 2. remove the cover to the pressure switch its self (usly one #2 phillips screw) 3. now you will see 4 wires under some sloted screws nearest to the front of the switch, behint that is 1 or 2 bolts with a spring and a nut. 4. if you see 2 bolts you will want to turn the nut on the larger one to the right. you will want to tighten it about 1 to 2 full turns. (the same goes if there is only one bolt also) 5. now open the valve that is on the tank untill you here the switch click. then close the valve. 6. turn the power back on tio the pump and watch the pressure gauge on the tank. i DO NOT RECOMEND MORE THAN 70PSI. 7. if it goes over the pressure you want repete steps above exept loosen the nut in about 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you reach the desired pressure 8. if it does not reach your desired pressure then you do the same thing exept tighten the nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you attain your desired pressure. 9. when the pressure is reached, replace cover so you dont risk rusting the contacts. if you need more help feel free to email me. and i will assist you in any way that i can.

Q: I'm building a 79 SBC (old style) 350 and have a new stock water pump...what hose and where does it go from the top of the water pump to wherever? Heater hose? Or can I just leave it plugged. No A/C I just need a heater/defroster, etc...: New thermostat, yet have you ever tried a decrease temp thermostat? Our RV 479 CI used to run a million/2 way up and three/4 in end/bypass and close to the pink line up mountain roads. I placed a decrease thermostat and it runs a million/4 and <a million/2 end/bypass. severe temps are dry out electric powered cord rubber insulators and that i have had to replace diverse the ignition wires. also it is frustrating to crank reason you have become vapor lock. The gas contained in the gas is so warm is turns to vapor and the gas pump can no longer longer suck gas because it isn't reliable adequate to suck vapor, in ordinary words liquid gas. if so, flooded start up tactics might want to artwork. floor the gas, shop it floored and crank the starter. Pump like loopy also, yet shop you foot in truth floored. it would want to start up.

Q: A total of three units, usually starting two units. After jumping the gate, it was like this. I haven't paid attention before. Is it a turn around?: The water pump with frequency conversion is set correctly and will not burn the motor. If there is a problem, the frequency converter will automatically stop running. The frequency converter can change the positive and negative (frequency changer without this function, change the phase sequence)

Q: Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!: I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean

Q: How do you measure and analyse the pump characteristics and efficiency?: An automotive water pump consists of a steel shaft with an impeller (like a steamboat paddle wheel) on one end and a pulley flange on the other. The shaft spins on bearings located in a cast iron or aluminum housing. The housing has internal passages to allow the water to enter the impeller cavity and exit, often to a tube like structure (part of the housing casting) to which one of the rubber radiator hoses attaches. How it works is simple. Water present in the impeller cavity is confined and pushed to the outlet by the rotating vanes of the impeller. The rotation of the pump is usually driven by a belt powered by a pulley on the engine which turns a second pulley mounted to the pumps pulley flange. The characteristics might include things like, is the pump self priming or is it self lubricating? In an automotive system the answer to both questions is yes. To evaluate a pumps efficiency you would want to set up a test rig where you attach the pumps outlet to a long hose and use it to fill a calibrated container (one gallon, five gallons etc). Then with a stopwatch you can either time how long it takes to fill a gallon container or you can measure the volume of water pumped in a minute. Either way you will get useful information you can use to evaluate the pumps efficiency. You should repeat the above test at different engine RPM's to discover if the pump has peak efficiency (or lack of efficiency) at a particular RPM or range of RPM's. Finally, if you do this experiment for real be sure you add water as fast as you pump it out so you don't over heat the engine and damage it. Have fun.

Q: i have a water leak near the water pump in my 1990 cadillac deville i replaced the water pump but it was remanufactured and a pipe on the back of the water pump can it be a heater core or should i buy a brand new one p.s. water leaks after it passes the radiator: it would,nt be the heater core because it,s a good ways from the water pump. it might be that the water pump gasket slipped when you were putting it on or the by-pass hose is bad or loose. check all the hoses like both radiator hoses and where the heater hoses hook up to the block.

Q: I am trying to evaluate my well water pump and water system to see if the pump is cycling on/off too frequently. What is the optimal quot;ontime? What is the optimal quot;offtime? I have heard the term quot;short cyclingquot;, but no times were attached. I have heard that too frequent cycling can cause a problem, but, again, no times were attached. How can one tell when the system is working within the optimal/normal range, so that no harm is being caused to the system? Thanks.: There is no optimum time. This is dependent on several factors. Assuming you are pumping into a small tank which is pressurized by the inflow of water from the pump (and the pressure also controls the pump) these reasons can be excessive use of water, the air space at the top of your tank has been absorbed into the water over a period of time and the volume of compressed air too small causing the pressure to drop too fast, or you could have leak in your water piping. If there is not enough air space in your tank, the pump will cycle extremely fast. If you don't have a tank, then the above information is incorrect. Good luck.

Q: could it be the water pump??: sounds like a head gasket to me, I'd get it checked immediately.

Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Coolant leaks (not into the oil)*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)Ive had this problem for a while. Some times my van drives just fine and heats just fine, then some days it wants to over heat and blow cool quot;heatquot;. Adding coolant to my van used to do the trick, but now its not working. If it is my thermostat that is broke, the water/coolant would still run through the hoses right?I really think its my water pump out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump? If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!: Again, see last answer to your same question. You obviously dont know what the real problem is, could be water pump and might not be. Instead of wasting over 25.00 on a water pump and that not being the problem, why dont you take it to a reputable repair facility and have the cooling system analyzed and they can tell you EXACTLY what part(s) need replacing, then go from there. Nobody can diagnose your cooling system problem over the internet since we are not at your vehicle with a coolant pressure tester and block test tool.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit