Hot Water Circulating Pump XR Series

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General
Type XR hot water circulating pump, according to API610 and VDAM24297(light/medium duty), it is advanced products developed from type R hot water circulating pumps with high serialization, standardization and generalization. The pumps have advanced performance, stable operation, safe and reliable. It is used in metallurgy, power stations, chemical industry as well as heating system or closed circle system for handling hot water circulating and exchange-heating. The highest temperature of the liquid can not be over 250℃. Working pressure is not allowed more than 5.O MPa.

Performance range
Capacity Q :1.6~2600m3/s
Head : 5~300m
Working Pressure（P）: ≤ 5MPa
Working temperature（T）: hot water ≤250℃

The description of pump type
For example：XR200－400A
XR－New Type hot water circulating pump
200－Inlet Diameter of pump(mm)
400－Impeller nominal diameter(mm)
A－Outer diameter of impeller is changed

Construction
Type XR hot water circulating pump is the kind of single-stage, single-suction overhanging centrifugal pump with horizontal axial suction and radial upward discharge.
The pump casing is radial split which installed horizontally with supported on the center line. Especially suitable for high temperature and high pressure and transport inflammable and explosive liquids.
The shaft seal is mechanical seal or packing seal. The pump used rolling bearings which get lubricated with dilute oil.

The direction of rotation
The rotation of the pump rotor is clockwise looking from the motor to the pump.

Q: where is water pump tempertuer sensor in ford focus 2002: Water-pumps do not have temperature sensors. They're (temperature sensors) always located in the water-jacket of the hottest part of the engine which is the cylinder head. The water-pump coolant temperature is by far the coolest. It's located to the right of the alternator, a few inches facing forward screwed into the cylinder head. The little manual in the glove compartment will not explain where the coolant temperature sensor is.

Q: How can we calculate the maximum pump pressure for chilled water system for a 20 story building: In addition to what was said earlier you will also need to consider the following. Pipe frictional losses will need to be calculated. If there is a control valve or flow element then need to add 3 to 5 psi. If the chilled water goes thru a piece of equipment there will be a pressure loss across that, (example - cooling coil on an air handling unit, air separator etc) this can range from 3 to 20 psi, the equip vendor should be able to provide this. If your pumps are on the ground floor, you might be able to neglect the pressure due to elevation if the loop remains pressurized by the pump(s). Might be a good idea to have an engineer review this who has sized pumps before.

Q: I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?: Sorry, I thought I was answering this question before......is there 2 questions. Ok, the water is exhausted out the fin just above and behind the prop. The exhaust and water are both in the leg area where the shift rod is, so when you take the access plate off, you'll get some water and exhaust. You can't see the water coming out the exhaust port with the motor in a barrel. It's below the water line. And no the exhaust isn't being sucked back in the water pump, at least not enough to matter. There is a flush attachment that will feed water from a hose into the water pump. With the engine on a rack, or the boat out of the water, you can see where the exhaust and water come out. Running in a barrel isn't the best way to see anything. If you take the prop off it's easy to over rev. the motor. My advise is to put the motor on the boat in the water and start it. Check the engine block every couple min. for overheating. A little water dribbled on the head will sizzle, if it's getting to hot...if so shut it down, and recheck the water pump job. There is a tube that sticks in to the water pump housing. make sure it's in position.

Q: have a leak and want to replace the pumphave tools, any thing I should know before getting started?I intend to:drain from lower hose of radiatortake of fan ( using a 1 1/2 wrench method)do I need to remove shroud first???remove fan, remove serpentine belt then remove water pump , use a little brake cleaner to clean new pump gasket area and existing engine area, put a little gasket sealer on gasket and replace pump.put everything back on, and refill with prestone Green coolant.its what is in there now and it says dextrol only but is that necessary?, most people in the know I ask say it does not matter...hows that sound?: sounds like you know what your doing. but i would advise you to take the shroud off first because it will get in the way. you might want to replace your hoses and thermostat also and use a gasket scraper instead of brake clean. happy wrenching.

Q: The at is a 2003 Toyota celica. And how much would it cost to get the water pump and timing belt replaced?: If you're in Canada it will cost nearly 2x as much as if you are in the USA because Canadians get hosed. I'm guestimating you're looking at about $300 for pump and maybe $800 timing belt give or take several hun. Labor mostly.

Q: My water pump keeps getting quite hot after each use. Everything seems to be working properly, except I think that the heat may cause it to burn out and that would cause a huge problem. My pump pulls water from a ground level water tank and pushes water up three flats to the part of my house used for living quarters. The pressure setting is set to cut out at 40psi and cut in at 25psi. What can I do myself before calling in expensive experts?: You have an air volume problem and the tank is water logged. When this happens the pump motor short cycles and creates more heat than it can dissipate. A device inside the motor windings cuts the power until it cools again. You can cut the power off,drain the tank, then start all over, it will give you1/3 air pressure volume over 2/3 water. They have an air volume control that may not be operating properly. I use an air compressor on my pump and pump air into the tank about once every two months. It all depends on how much the pump runs.

Q: I just came from my dealership and they tested my car with a pressure test. They didnt notice any coolant leaks. Last week my car I noticed that the coolant level has decreased. I had to replenish it in an emergency effort. I am curious to check the water pump. I am going to ask my mechanic tomorrow if he could check it and how much does something like that cost to check? I DO NOT want any coolant leakage getting into my engine because that could present a problem. How can it possibily get to the engine???: If you had a water pump leak you'd know it! There would be coolant draining out of water pump seal the minute you filled the cooling system. A water pump leak doesn't get coolant into the motor. It will get the timing belt wet with antifreeze and cause the belt to jump time and possibly bend your valves. The only way you'll get coolant in the motor oil is if there is a head gasket leak. To check for that you need to have a block test done.

Q: Why can't sprinkler system and hydrant system share water pump in fire fighting system?: Why not share mainly because the two impurities contained in the water system: fire hydrant system requirements of different impurities in the water spray system requirements loose, but more stringent requirements, therefore, the former can be welded steel pipe, the latter must use galvanized pipe, the purpose is to prevent rust plug flow indicator or end of the spray head.

Q: i have recently taken of my whole water pump cover to drain the fluid, not knowing that there was a drain screw to do it.So when i took it off, i broke the seal, and now the coolant constantly drips 24/7 until i have none left, nearly blew my head gasket the other day.I was going to get a new part, but then a friend told me about locktite to seal it shut so that it does not leak????Is this the super glue stuff orrrrr? :(Please help me and links would be good so i know what to getThanks you very much!: DPO, You will need the water pump gasket, water pump gasket sealant and the manual. DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE. Remove the cover [after draining the coolant this time] and clean everything up nice and dry. Resist the urge to scrape and gouge the parts with a screw driver to remove the old gasket material. you can use a scotchbrite pad to clean it all up. [no, steel wool cannot be used] Use a THIN film of sealant on each side of the gasket [NO, more is not better] and bolt it back together gently or you risk cracking the pump cover. Don't forget to refill with coolant and recheck after it has warmed up and cooled again.Get the manual before you do any more damage. You didn't give the year or exact model 85 so the link below is just for example.

Q: We had a thunderstorm followed by power outage last night, this morning I went to use the water and it slowly went dead.I began by inspecting the pressure tank and pressure control switch, then found the outside water pump breaker was tripped, upon resetting the water was back on!But wait, after about 1-2 minutes of use there was a small quot;POPand smoke from the control switch and the breaker tripped again. It seems now that every time the water pump kicks in I've got a 50/50 shot of the circuit breaker blowing. I'm not sure what to do now, I don't want to keep resetting my pump breaker, we really didn't get that much rain so I don't know what would be causing this issue?Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks!: So, you say you have a 50/50 chance of the water pump's breaker popping out when you use it now. I would assume you mean when you've used it enough to make the pump come back on. Actually, I think I'd start by replacing the pressure switch, regardless of which system you have, submersible or above ground, the pressure switch will be where it can be serviced. I really can't think of any reason why a pressure switch would cause a breaker to trip, but at least that way you'd know you've done all you can do. If your system is a submersible you'll have to have a water company come out with a boom truck to pull that pump up out of the ground.

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