• Horizontal Double Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Horizontal Double Suction Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Horizontal Double Suction Centrifugal Pump System 3
Horizontal Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

Horizontal Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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1. Description

Complies to API610, 682,ISO2858standards
Max pressure: 2.5MPa
Capacity: 0.64~2400 m3/h
Head: 4~250m
Model: IJ series chemical processpump: Horizontal single stage pump

Capacity : 0.64-2400m3/h

T: -20---200oC 


2. Material 

(For wet parts in contactwith medium): CS, cast iron, 304(0Cr18Ni99ti), 305 (1cr18ni9t), MCU, CD4MCu,316, 316L, 310S, alloy 20#, 904, ta2, Ti/pd (titanium-palladium alloy), Ni(nickel), Monel. Dual-phase stainless steel, etc.


These materials have been selectedas a result of many years of experience in the use of chemical engineeringmaterial, to satisfy the special demands made in pump construction.

3. Mechanical Seal

Mechanical seal: According tocustomer's requirements
We provide:
1. Mechanical seal---171(A) mechanicalseal (this kind of seal is the national-patented product, patent No. ZL92 220977.4 ) single or dual MS.
2. Dynamic seal.
3. Packing gland seal.
Or other brands.
Coupling: Pin type coupling

4. Usage 
Soda, paper, salts. Metallurgy,acid-making, petrochemical, fiber, plastic, paper-making, chemical fertilizer.Fermentation, environmental protection.
Please. 

Horizontal Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

5. FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.




Q: can you give me some information?
Water pumps come in all sizes from less than one gallon per hour to over 50,000 gallons per minute. They also produce pressures on the discharge from a few inches of water to thousands of pounds per square inch. They pump water with all kinds of contaminates and chemicals dissolved in the water. Finally they can have all kinds of service conditions from a few minutes at a time once a day to continuous operation. All of these factors enter into what you need to have a good quality pump.
Q: The pump assembly and the pump are not a thing
Yes, all the auto parts are called assembly, and the pump is the same. It's called water pump assembly. Also, the pump half assembly is the water pump head.
Q: I'm building a 79 SBC (old style) 350 and have a new stock water pump...what hose and where does it go from the top of the water pump to wherever? Heater hose? Or can I just leave it plugged. No A/C I just need a heater/defroster, etc...
The hose runs from the pump to the heater core on the pass side firewall. There should be a hose that comes back out and connects to the top of the intake manifold to return the coolant back to the engine also.
Q: What are the export pumps packed in cartons?
Our imported pumps are covered with plastic tape and bolted to wooden containers. The wooden box is nailed down.Naturally, the larger pump uses the larger container accordingly.Suggest exports, as sure as imports, OK.
Q: Hi I really need a USB water pump (small). I have found one in China but they need payment in a different currency so its proving difficult. I would much prefer a US/EUROPE seller. Cheers.PSgt; If I had to pay to get the power supply changed from wire to USB then I could if anyone knows who could do this.
The USB output has a 5V power supply. USB2 delivers up to 500mA and later versions may be 900mA. USB hubs start off with less than this (100mA) but change as they are initialised. Some dedicated USB charging ports supply up to 1.8A. There are some USB power cables that take the output from 2 ports in a sort of Y harness (first link for example). The result of all this is that only a very small pump would run from most USB ports. I did find 2 rated at 5W and 8W but the voltage was not shown. I suspect they were mains operation, meant for large water bottles. If they were 5V they would use 1A and 1.6A respectively, so only run from special USB charge points or double cables, and only in some cases anyway. I assume you want to run from a Laptop/Notebook battery for convenience. The point is that even if the USB port can supply the correct voltage and current the battery would be emptied very quickly. It is probably cheaper to get a suitable pump, then power it from a separate and more suitable rechargeable battery or mains adaptor (wall wart), whatever it takes, taking into account how long it should run with a single charge. This is about the battery voltage and the capacity in ampere hours - the number of hours it can supply a given current. D size rechargeable (Ni-MH) would run a 6V x 6W motor using 1A for about 6 hours. C size cells are half that, and AA cells about half again. It takes 4 cells to get 5V. Get them as a pack though or at least with a battery holder, as they cannot be soldered. Then you need a proper charger. Recent laptop/notebook batteries are lithium ion types, 10.8V and 4.8Ah, so deliver 1A @10.8V for 4h more or less. Other types worth considering are for cordless drills.
Q: i a wayne above ground pump i need to know how to run all my water lines
Would go to the Wayne website and hopefully they will have a diagram of how to hook up lines. You may need more than you think, such as pressure relieve valve, T fittings for a pressure gauge. etc. If you can find correct diagram will save you a lot of headache in long run.
Q: I have a pump connected to a lake, that I use to water garden. I changed the line into the lake as it had a air leak and lost it.'s prime.I have filled water back into the tank and lines .several times. And it hasn't caught it's prime. It is a year old pump that came with it's own tank.When I am doing all this I leave the tap end closed.I'm pretty sure that all is tight and not leaking.The line into the water is only about 5ft deep
Put a check valve in the input line to the pump, under the water line. Then poor water down the pump inlet line. If you used a positive displacement pump, you would not need to prime.
Q: The pump works and water goes to the house from the reserve tanks but there can be long delays before it cuts in after mains pressure is lost. After it stops the pressure gauge falls back slowly to zero. Pressure vessel is a sphere has a valve on top. Any suggestions ?
The guage is probably broken, but that is mostly for reference for setting your start/stop switch. Now, first off I'd check your bladder tank. A bad bladder tank will still give you some pressure but causes the pump to run almost constantly. To test that, there is a bicycle looking air valve sticking out of the bladder tank. Push a key or something in it as if you were to let air out of a tire. If any water comes out, your bladder is bad and has to be replaced. If you have an older style deep well, like a well house where the pump is accessible, check the switch, (little black box attached to the pump). There are two screws that can be turned. One sets the pressure the pump will turn off at and the other adjusts the minimum pressure you want for the water to turn back on and fill your tank. A lot of people go 20/40, I run mine at 30/50. Much more than that and you can run into problems, especially if you have cpvc pipes. They will weaken at the elbows and 60 psi of water can eventually make pin hole leaks. This is from personal experience. You will need a working gauge to set this. If the bladder is not your problem, email me and I'll give you more details on how to set your pump if you need it. Or, you can buy preset switches at your local hardware for $20 and just swap it out. In that case, do not mess with the adjustment screws.
Q: Replaced the water pump in my 89 f150 and now I have a pretty steady leak coming out. I don't know where the leak is coming from, but its running down the lower hose and dripping off it. I've replaced the lower hose and water pump, what could be causing this?
Forgot the water pump gasket or sealant. Didn't torque the bolts. Didn't clean off the old gasket good enough. Left a piece of debris on the sealing surface. Didn't get the hose all the way on the water pump, didn't tighten the clamp enough. Check the simple things first. It's got to be one of those since the pump is new. Although not all new things work!! Sometimes you get a bad one especially if rebuilt.
Q: just pulled my well pipe up and installed a new foot valve will i have to fill the pipes back up with water before i can get it to pump
How To Prime A Pump: (Need: Gallon jug of drinking water, a roll of teflon tape, and an adjustable wrench or a pipe wrench.) A. Unplug pump (or cut OFF breaker box at pump, if one). B. Unscrew (counter-clockwise) the largest (3/4) plug on top of pump head. C. Wrap 2-3 flat turns (clockwise only) of teflon tape on threads of plug. D. Pour water into plug hole until full, and quickly start threads of plug by hand. E. Plug in or turn on pump, and finger-tighten plug (air and water will bubble out around threads as you do so) until pump picks up prime. Then wrench-tighten plug when it does. Repeat all steps, if necessary, until you have full water pressure and pump cuts off on its own. Good Luck!

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