Horizontal Constant Pressure Fire Pumps XBD-HL Series

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Horizontal Constant Pressure Fire Pumps XBD-HL Series

Description:

XBD-H series vertical (horizontal) variable-flow constant-pressure fire pump. a new developed product is the third generation based on XBD-HY(TB)series variable-flow constant-pressure fire pump. Combined with advanced technologies from America and Switzerland, and guided by famous professors from Jiangsu University of Science and Technology. Compared with the original tangent fire pump, it is more advanced because it's original in designing in accordance with the principle of the partial emission pump so that its performance and technical conditions are in full conformity with requirements in G6245-1988 Performance Requirements and Testing Methods for Fire Pump newly released by the state.

XBD-H series variable-flow constant-pressure fire pump is mainly used for fixed fire systems in industrial and civil buildings, such as hydrant, automatic sprinkler and water spraying fire extinguishing systems, as well as for water supply systems for domestic sue ,fire control and public domestic sue ,water supply for buildings, civil works, industrial and mining uses, boiler and so on.

Main Application:

XBD-H series variable-flow constant-pressure fire pump is mainly used for fixed fire systems in industrial and civil buildings, such as hydrant, automatic sprinkler and water spraying fire extinguishing systems, as well as for water supply systems for domestic sue ,fire control and public domestic sue ,water supply for buildings, civil works, industrial and mining uses, boiler and so on.

Q: Suppose the liquid temperature range for the water pump is -20 .. 90 °C. However it should be worked under liquid temperature upto 180 °C. For this, what has to to be done?: (edited) The physical size of the pumping arrangement was not described. I assume that the pump has all metallic components because of the high (194 F) 90degC design operating temperature. There may be some problem with an elastomeric bellows in a mechanical seal at the 180degC (356F) temperature. Other than that, there should be no problem with the temperatures as far as the pump is concerned. There may be a need for shaft cooling to protect the standard electric motor and possibly the flexible drive coupling arrangement. (edit) Depending on the physical size, rotating speed and drive arrangement, a special coupling set-up may be needed to accommodate any potentially wide swing in operating temperatures. From ambient to 180degC there will be about a 160C (288F) variation. The liquid will be either a salt or a glycol brine solution for freeze protection at the lower temperatures. (edit) That same concentration will provide some elevation of the boiling temperature and therefore a reduction of the pressure of the water solution needed to prevent boiling. ( 130 psig is the saturation pressure of plain water at that elevated temperature.) This can be found on the charts provided by the glycol suppliers for the various glycol and salt solution characteristics. To prevent cavitation you may need to pressurize the suction. If the proposed pressure of the system is already above the vapor pressure of the solution at that maximum temperature, you may already be OK. A motor with high temperature windings may be considered.

Q: My mechanic doesn't get back in town until next week, and I'm struggling without my car. I don't really have any other options mechanic wise and I'm not dropping $1000 like meineke wants.How easy is it to follow the Haynes repair manuals or any other repair manuals? I have a 1996 dodge avenger and I need to replace my water pump. I know it's a time consuming task, but is it especially hard to replace it?: If you don't have any experience working on cars aside from changing oil my suggestion is to take it in and get it done. You need to drain the coolant, loosen the belt, and then try and torque off those bolts that are prolly sticky on the water pump. And if the water has eaten through the gasket you may need to get the engine block redone where the water pump rests. Oh but don't go to Meineke yuck, you might as well pull your pants down at your own house and sit on a plunger handle; at least it is free and will probably be less painful.

Q: I would like to know how difficult it is to change a water pump on my mustang? Is it something I can do by myself? I do know about cars and can perform general maintenance, I am not totally ignorant to whats going on underneath the hood of my car I'm just not sure if I have the tools needed and how difficult it is to do. What tools do I need? Do I need a torque wrench? If anyone can help me out I would appreciate it. Thanks!: sable wasn't a real bad car for the most part. Personally I am not a ford man but if the vehicle has buckets of rust and lots of miles then yes this water pump is the sign of what's to come. Breakdowns that is.

Q: I drive a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander and I am required to change my timing belt as part of preventive maintenance. When I had been to Firestone, they quoted $998 for Timing Belt Water Pump (both parts labor). When I called Midas, they quoted $550 for the same. Does anyone know why there is such a big difference? I have been a regular at Firestone, so Midas is new to me. Are they reliable? Midas is quoting low now, but would there be a surprise charge after I get it done? BTW, how is a water pump related to a timing belt??: When you remove the timing belt cover, then the water pump is internally built into the engine block. It is a couple hours work, so you don't want to pay that labour charge again...6 months later for a water pump problem. Honestly.. a rubber timing belt is about 35 dollars. and a water pump is about 65 dollars. And the labor is about 3 hours maximum. Any good mechanic can do this in the driveway. So... don't feel any loyalty at all to Firestone or Midas, or uncle Louis if you can save some money. There is absolutely NO delicate adjustments, or computerized readings necessary to do this work. $998?? that's the price for lonely women who don't have a father or boyfriend to help them. Yeah... you teen-age mechanics can give me all the thumbs downs you like. I've done a few belts and water pumps. It's a few hours, but easy! THE WATER PUMP NEVER HOLDS THE TENSION ON THE BELT. That is the tensioner pulley, a separate item. teenage armchair mechanics!

Q: Hello online mechanics! You guys have saved me a lot of money on my car, so now I have a new question! I have a 97 Ford Contour and lately since it's been cool in NJ, I've been hearing a tapping coming from the timing belt cover, but when the car warms up, there's no sound. I took the car to my mechanic and he says that I need to have the timing belt replaced, the pulleys adjusted, and the water pump changed. The price for doing the timing belt was $400 (including adjusting the pulleys) and $700 for the timing and the water pump. My question is ; do I need to do the water pump? He says that if you do the timing belt, that you should do the water pump too, but should I if there's nothing wrong with it ( as far as I know) and I'm not looking for the added expense? I thought if it ain't broke don't fix it still applies to things, or am I mistaken? Thanks guys gals! In these tough economic times, I'm not looking to spend any more than is necessary!: make sure you have coolant in,or a couple month with out would burn the seals,sound like lifters as its goes away when hot (expand) try buying lukas oil stabilizer as it thicker and also lube better and run smother

Q: My car broke down yesterday and is waiting to be towed to the mechanic (2000 Dodge Neon). I'm pretty sure the Timing Belt broke, but my water pump was broken in the process and leaked out lots of water. Would the timing belt break the water pump when it snapped? Or does the broken water pump lead us to a different conclusion? Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.Also I was reading online today about interference engines, but couldn't find a list to verify if I have one of those or not. Anyone know? Thanks!: As far as I know, Neon's do not have interference engines. A bad water pump can cause the belt to snap, not usually the other way around.

Q: Hi -- could someone please give me information on how much I should expect to pay for a water pump and to cleanse my coolant system (or something like that) or if it's something I really need to do. Or if I can get the water pump without the coolant system...My car is running fine, just started making kind of a rough running sound a few weeks ago when it's idling. ANY advice is greatly appreciated!: Right..the water pump doesn't sound like your problem. However, it would not hurt to get the cooling system totally flushed out and replaced with new fluid, if this has not been done in a long time. Might run you about...$75, just a guess. You also should really consider replacing the fuel filter, air filter, and spark plugs. This could really make a difference for you if they are old. Wouldn't cost you but $30 for all of those parts and maybe 45 minutes labor.

Q: i'm trying to make a small water fountain, i have a tiny motor that i can use, but i dont know how to use it to make the water go up :( haha heeeelpthanks in advance:): I doubt that your motor is waterproof. You would do better to just purchase one of the many fountain pumps all ready available at many home improvement centers or online. They are water proof and have the pump and motor all in one enclosure.

Q: can bad water pump make car overheat?: Yes because it what allows the engine coolant to flow to keep the car on the right temperature.

Q: I have an ls vtec set up on my 89 EF si, I want to install a better oil and water pump. I m thinking of going with GSR. BUt my question is are all years gsr oil, water pump the same? I think my ls Block is from 93-95 acura. which year gsr water oil pump can I use for my motor?. also I have a 2000 si head. do I have to change the timing belt? and Last question is should I use b16, gsr type r pumps? I heard gsr and type r have the same part #. Thanks: you need the GSR/Type-R water pump. This is one of the major causes of LS/VTEC failure. The GSR/Type-R has 22 teeth while the LS/GS has 19 teeth. The extra teeth cause it to spin faster pushing more water through the system. Any time you change something related that uses the timing belt, I ALWAYS install a new timing belt, and tensioner. That way there are no worries later.

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