• Grundfos Type Hot Water Circulation Pump, 3-Speed Heat Pump System 1
  • Grundfos Type Hot Water Circulation Pump, 3-Speed Heat Pump System 2
  • Grundfos Type Hot Water Circulation Pump, 3-Speed Heat Pump System 3
Grundfos Type Hot Water Circulation Pump, 3-Speed Heat Pump

Grundfos Type Hot Water Circulation Pump, 3-Speed Heat Pump

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Loading Port:
Ningbo
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 unit/month

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Specifications

circulator pump, wet rotor type, 304S.S.
no noise <45dB(A), no leakage, environment friendly, easy installation

Domestic speed control (3-speed) Circulation pump

This circulation pump especially designed for heating system and used to supply water

and add pressure for mansions of city,villa of subarb,house,to match with industrial equipment,

to supply water in cycle for cooling air-condition,boiler and solar energy,suppy hot andwater and keep warm cycle.

Construction Material

  • Motor wire:copper

  • Motor shell: aluminium

  • Rotor can: stainless steel 304

  • Impeller: PP

  • Pump body: cast iron

  • Shaft: ceramic/S,S

  • Bear: ceramic/graphite

Technical Data

  • Liquid temperature range: -10 - 110°C

  • Pipe size: G1.5", DN25mm

  • Port to port length: 180mm

  • Max. operating pressure: 10bar

  • Pressure stage, pipe connection: PN10

Electrical Data

  • Input power(speed 1):46W

  • Input power(speed 2):67W

  • Max input power.: 100W

  • Mains frequency: 50/60Hz

  • Rated voltage: 110/220V

  • Max. current: 0.4A

  • Capacitor size: 3uf

  • Max flow:65l/min

  • Max head:6m



Q: 1998 Honda civic water pump plastic or metal inside (OEM)?
Water pumps are metal including the frame, the water pulley, and the fins on the other side. Plastic fins would not be ideal as it would spin constantly and come in contact with hot coolant for the duration your engine is on. Eventually, it would soften, bend and become insufficient in pushing and circulating coolant throughout your engine. Hope this helps!
Q: my basement flooded and the water came in contact with the wiring on my water pump.Now the pump tries to turn on but shuts off without pumping any water.How do i get my pump pumping water again?
sounds like not only did it come in contact withe wiring but also with the pump,when your working with electricity you need to be very careful and have the right tools to do the job with. to start this job you need a multi testing meter,this will let you check things like amp,volts,ohms,you know things that comes in contact with the pump and wiring,you didn't say what the voltage is on this pump,so first i'd find out what that is and make sure you have that going to the pump,then if so make sure the pump isn't froze or locked up,next go to the breaker box and locate the breaker for the pump,and test to see how many amps the pump is pulling when turned on.then find out if there is anything restricting the pump from doing its job,it may be something as simple as a run capacitor or even a shorted or burnt wire,but first make sure you have the correct voltage and amperage going to and coming out of the motor,once you get that taken care of you may need to prime the pump in order to get it pumping again
Q: When replacing the water pump in a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan. Old one is loose, I'm about to lower the engine a little to get the water pump out. Before putting the new one on, do I have to do anything with the timing belt/chain?
Depends on the engine size . If the pump is driven by the timing belt then yes , if the pump is driven by the serpentine belt then no .
Q: was putting a water pump on, and i tight too much on 2 bolts, and they broke. is it anyway to fix it ?? is it going to cost alot in labor ??
Remove the water pump. Then you should be able to grab whats left of the bolts with a pair of vise grips and turn them out.
Q: Is the pump lift horizontal or vertical?
A vertical, vertical lift is one meter (see environment), usually 5~10 times the horizontal distance
Q: new switch and new tank
Sounds like the thermal is cycling. Check it and clean out debris. (overheating)
Q: I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat and the water pump seems to be leaking. The lower radiator hose has been replaced but it still leaks a fairly substantial amount. From what I can tell the pump is still doing its job but I'm losing coolant. Is there a way I can determine if i just need a new gasket or a new pump altogether without ripping the front end off? Any feedback is appreciated.
Replace the pump. While your at it, since the front end (actually the bumper cover) is off, get the timing belt done, with rollers, tensioner, thermostat, and G12 coolant.
Q: Could it make coolant quot;Boilquot;? Ive heard myc ar's behavior is Normal, and most likely just heavy condenstaion as it DOES go away, also the behavior of the coolant and the tank.. but i DO know the Water Pump is quot;Weeping,or quot;Seeping,so i wonder what interaction that would have ont he Cooling side of the motor; what effects can it produce? What would i notice?My 1991 Calais 2.5L quot;Iron Duke,
Steam coming from your headlight on a rainy night is NORMAL, since the halogen bulb makes a lot of heat. This turns the water into water vapor, (steam) as it attempts to dry out. If you don't physically hear the bearings in your water pump, or watch colored fluid drip out from under your engine, then your water pump is JUST FINE!!! STOP WORRYING! I answered one of your questions the other day. If you take my advice, your engine will run at it's best. For extra protection, drain and flush your cooling system out, and use Mercedes coolant. Dex-cool has been proved to be a potentially bad coolant. READ the dexcool litigation websites. Mercedes coolant, which is YELLOW in color, will last for 150,000 miles, and is a time tested WINNER!!! Use ONLY top tier fuels (read about this on web) and use ONLY synthetic oil, like Mobil One. CLEAN your idle air control valve and throttle plate. AND STOP WORRYING!
Q: This is what it is doing- the actual pump that is in its own little shed CLICKS all of the time water is being ran, even a small amount of water. The water pressure goes to a slow trickle and eventually stops completely. After about 20-30 minutes I go back and check the spickets and the water is fine, but quickly repeats this same cycle. We just installed this pump about 3 weeks ago. It was doing fine until last week. Does it need to be primed or pressure switch settings increased or decreased? Or am I talking totally out of my head?!
Might be air in the water lines. Be careful and don't allow the pump to run very long when it isn't pumping any water or you will be buying another pump. It sounds like it is loosing it's prime as it builds up enough to send water to the faucets and then looses it's prime and then has to wait until it builds up enough to start over again. You may need to call someone out and have them run down the problem before you burn up your new pump.
Q: I'm curious to know, where does the water go after it is sent to a pumping station??
Potable (drinkable) water pumps placed just outside the treatment plant boost pressure in the water mains, where it eventually gets to homes, businesses and hydrants via the pipe network. Most sewers flow by gravity (downhill) to a waste water treatment plant (or septic field). But if an area is too low to be serviced by a gravity sewer, an ejector pump is set at the bottom of a collection well which pumps the wastewater to a higher elevation in a pressure pipe called a force main. A good pump station will kick on about 4 or 5 times an hour and run for several minutes. Eventually it outlets to a manhole in a gravity system and ultimately the treatment plant.

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