• Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales System 1
  • Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales System 2
  • Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales System 3
  • Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales System 4
  • Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales System 5
  • Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales System 6
Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales

Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Name:
Fire pump stainless steel high speed high sales
Pressure:
High pressure
Standard or Nonstandard:
Standard
Material:
Stainless steel

Company Introduction

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

The company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

The company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

 

 

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Product specification

 

XBD-L:           VERTICAL SINGLE-STAGE CENTRIFUGAL WATER PUMP 

XBD-DL:        VERTICAL MULTISTAGE CENTRIFUGAL WATER PUMP

XBD-I:           VERTICAL MULTISTAGE CENTRIFUGAL WATER PUMP (STAINLESS STEEL) 

XBD-HY:       HORIZONTAL CONSTANT PRESSURE CENTRIFUGAL WATER PUMP

XBD-W:        HORIZONTAL MULTISTAGE CENTRIFUGAL WATER PUMP

XBC:             DIESEL ENGINECENTRIFUGAL WATER PUMP

 

***

XBD-L vertical single stage fire pump is used to deliver non-grain clean water and fluids similar with water in physiochemical property.

 It is mainly used for pressuring water supply in fire system; also it can be used for water drainage in factories and mines.

 

The flow range

5~140L/S,

pressure range

0.31~1.5Mpa,

motor power range

0.75~160KW,

inlet/outlet caliber

DN25-DN200mm

 

 

 


Application
Mainly apply to delivery sewage water ,waster water and rain water contains solids and
fibres:
*municipal project
*building construction
*residential area
*industrial sewage treatment
*eviroment protect
*mining


Features
1. Hydraulic design with wide flow-path non-clogged structure ,allowed fibres(3 times
length of inlet diameter),particles(30% size of inlet diameter )
2. Excellent design,high efficiency and energy saving .
3. Double mechnical seals in series,made of hard alloy corrosive proof silicon
carbide,which is durable and .wearable ,that enable pump safely operation for more
than 8000 hours continous.
4. Compact structure, small volume, easy moved and conveniently mounted , no need build
pump house, greatly reduct the cost.

 

pump superiority

High efficiency

Reasonable design

Reliable operation

Long in service time

Easy maintenance

Low running cost

 

 Pictures show

 

Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales

 

 

Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales

Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales

 

 

Fire Pump Stainless Steel High Speed High Sales

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Transportation

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FAQ                                                

1.Q: What is your payment term?

A: 30% T/T in advance, 70% when receiving B/L copy. Or irrevocable L/C.

 

2.Q: What is your lead time?

A: Within 20-25 days after receiving deposit or original L/C.   

 

3.Q: Do you offer OEM service?

A: Yes. We manufacturer can custom designed for any specific application.

 

4.Q: Are your motors expensive?

A: No. Our design team works with end users and OEM's to provide the lowest total life cycle cost solution. 

If continuous operation is critical to your operation, our Technologies can design and manufacturer a motor to your specific or unique needs to avoid costly equipment down time.

 

 

 

Q: I've got a 1997 Ford Probe, taken it to a couple different places; whenever I drive my vehicle, it tends to want to overheat. I don't drive it to the point where it does though, I know that could cause more damage! I've noticed that when I go out to my car in the morning, there's some coolant on the ground by the front passenger's tire. Before I drive it I fill it with coolant, as to try to keep it from overheating while driving.I've been told that it's the water pump leaking from 2 people but then the last person said there's no leakage. I'm wondering if it might be something else? Maybe a thermostat, a hose, maybe? How would I figure this out???
Power wash the engine bay. THen drive the car over a quicky lube pit and pay the attendant $5 to examine the car from underneath. He should be able to tell. Is this the 3.0 liter engine?? Use only genuine Ford coolant in it! Also, power wash the space between the radiator and the A/C condenser
Q: I would like to know how difficult it is to change a water pump on my mustang? Is it something I can do by myself? I do know about cars and can perform general maintenance, I am not totally ignorant to whats going on underneath the hood of my car I'm just not sure if I have the tools needed and how difficult it is to do. What tools do I need? Do I need a torque wrench? If anyone can help me out I would appreciate it. Thanks!
This is a straightforward task that can be difficult for the novice, but it's not impossible. You will need basic automotive hand tools, wrenches, sockets in metric. Also, you will need a good shop manual for this car. A torque wrench is optional, most professional mechanics don't torque the fasteners involved with this job. Take pictures of the engine from various angles, it will help in reassembly. Don't forget to disconnect the battery also. Be certain to draw a diagram of how the serpentine belt(s) are routed around the pulleys, if no such aid exists on the radiator support. By all means buy a reputable brand NEW pump, don't bother with a rebuilt unit. With some mechanical knowledge and basic common sense you can do this, take your time, don't rush. Good Luck !
Q: Hi I just brought a chrysler sebring V6 that needs a water pump. I found a water pump on OKorder for only $30 and it only had 900 miles and it works great. Should I buy it?
No. Absolutely not. New water pumps or remanufactured water pumps aren't that expensive. The money you would save doesn't justify the extra costs involved if the used pump ends up being bad. Used parts are fine to use for a lot of repairs - water pumps definitely aren't one of them.
Q: I just got a new boat with a diesel engine and I don't understand why there is a coolant tank as well as a water pump? I think the water pump goes to the heat exchanger but what actually cools the motor - how does this stuff work?
if you do indeed have a heat exchangers, you have two loops at work...the coolant circulates in the engine with its own pump; the tank is for topping up just like in a car. The external water pump....the one connected to the hose to the seacock / through hull...draws in cool sea water, passes that through the heat exchanger where it cools the coolant and then the hot sea water goes out the exhaust. This way you're not circulating hot corrosive sea water through the engine and shortening its life.
Q: I just had the water pump replaced, now less than a week later it is overheating again and sometimes blowing cold air. What does this sound like it would be?
Unless the weep-hole is leaking on the bottom of the water-pump input shaft housing, the impeller inside the pump rarely goes bad. The impeller is the part inside the water-pump that circulates the coolant thorough the radiator, heater-core and cooling passages of the motor. There are several checks to eliminate possibilities why the cooling system is getting too hot. I wish you had told us the year, make and model of the car plus the number of miles on the odometer. If the coolant has been getting so hot that it bubbles back inside the plastic cooling system reservoir, have a private mechanic do an inexpensive cooling system pressure test to see if you have any external or internal coolant leaks. If not, have the thermostat changed with a factory original. Always check and refill the radiator when the motor is stone cold. Fill the plastic cooling system reservoir 3/4 full when ever you remove the radiator pressure cap. If you or someone has ever mixed chemical types of antifreeze other than the factory recommended brand or type it will eventually plug-up your cooling system and cause it to overheat. It may be necessary to drain, flush and clean the system with a one part acid cleaner. If you haven't in the past had your coolant drained and flushed every three years and your car is 12 years old or older get ready to buy a new radiator. They're easy to install and they're not too expensive these days because they come from Mexico or off-shore suppliers. Keep this in mind: The higher the percentage of antifreeze in the coolant the less efficient the cooling system becomes. Antifreeze is an insulator of heat transfer. That's why race cars don't use it! If this statement is hard to believe, Look up Stewart Water Pumps on the net. They'll tell you that pure water is the best coolant to use for heat transfer purposes. In the real world we can't do that because of temperature fluctuations.
Q: I would like information to use an automotive water pump to ( or possibly another device ) to pump water approximately 60 feet (20 meters) elevation from creek without electricity. I only need enough water for 25 chickens. So we are not talking about a households supply of water.
You need a lot more information than that. My first question is: how do you intend to operate a pump of any kind without electricity? Another piece of information needed for this is how far the chickens will be kept from the creek. Required change in elevation is a factor, but so is the length of pipe through which the water will be pumped. Pumping water farther leads to more energy lost due to friction which means you need a larger pump to maintain the same flow rate. Diameter and material of pipe is also a factor, along with bends and expansions/contractions. Since you don't need exact values for this... the flow rate required wouldn't even need to be 5 gal per day. That's just a trickle of water, so basically any pump capable of pumping water up 60 feet through however long your pipe (probably PVC) will be, would probably be enough to maintain drinking water for your chickens. That being said... if this is near your house, why don't you just run a water hose out there? Put a cap on the hose, drill a small hole in the cap and leave the valve to the hose turned on all the time. You could test it by seeing how long it takes to fill up a gallon or something...
Q: I just had my water pump/timing belt replaced and oil change. When the pump failed, white smoke was coming out, which I figured out to be coolant from the smell. Now there is smoke coming out from under the engine, which I believe to smell like oil. Also, the temperature gauge goes up to the halfway point when I am at a stoplight or idling. The highest I have ever seen it is at 1/3.I had my car serviced by the dealership and I asked them. The man said its burning oil residue from the oil change and that it will burn away in a few days. Is this true? I have had my car worked on and oil changed for the past year at this dealership and have never had any smoke or other problems. What else could be going on? Worse case scenarios. Thanks everyone.
Oil residue ought to go in a few hours, not days !!! Anyway, if the smoke persists then it seems that youv'e got a cracked engine gasket and oil is mixing with cylinder water. Check it and check your radiator for any clogs.
Q: How many pumps does a 50 meter water head use?
Well pump head selection for pump + water depth height (water pressure) + head loss, head loss of water system is not complicated with 3-5 meters can, refers to the depth of pump well pump down into the well depth, generally shallow wells is down to the bottom, is based on deep well pumping well test data to determine the position of the pump.
Q: im buying a mazda 626 for 800 abd the owner selling just let me know that the water pump is going out. is it a fairly easy fix or should i keep shopping for a vehicle?
Keep shopping. Do you really think the seller is honest about the water pump? Sounds like he is trying to unload a car with a bad head gasket.
Q: I have a old house,1920's I think it was built. My water pump kicks on all the time! The tolite upstairs is not that old but the pipes are.The tolite runs for a min. and then stops for 5 mins. When I am running a bath..the second I turn off the water in the tub,the tolite starts to run! Same with the tolite downstairs,that one is only a few years old and the pipes are the same as it is an addition to the house. When I am up late at night in my office I hear the water pump kicking on in the basement ever 10 mins or so! My electric bill is huge! How can I fix this problem? What is causing it? I have not noticed any water leaks anywhere. We turned up the pressure on the pump. That helped a little. Thank god we have our own water well. Anyone have any Idea's?
The problem is your water system is not holding pressure properly. A couple of simple things to check are the *pressure switch. This switch monitors line pressure and turns pump on and off (ex: 20/40=pump on at 20PSI off at 40 PSI). Most older systems have this along with a pressure gauge screwed into top of pump. simply turn on water while someone monitors gauge. If it reads 20 and pump starts then reads 40 and pump shuts off it is not switch. If readings are way off change switch. *if you have a bladder tank, check the pressure in it (you can tell if it has a valve stem on top just like your car tires). There is us usualy a chart on top of the tank giving recomended pressure. Use a tire gauge to check pressure, if low put some air in it. If this does not work go talk to your local hardware or someone in the plumbing trade for better suggestions.

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