• Fire fighting pump XBD-ISG System 1
Fire fighting pump XBD-ISG

Fire fighting pump XBD-ISG

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Introduction

Type ISG vertical centrifugal pump is a high-efficient, energy-saving product successfully designed by means of adopting the property data of IS model centrifugal pump and the unique merits of vertical pump and strictly in accordance with ISO2858 world standard and the latest national standard JB/T53058-93 and an ideal product to replace IS horizontal pump, DL model pump and other ordinary pumps.

Features

1. Easy to mount. Because the inlet and outlet is located on the same central line, the pump can be directly mounted on any part of the pipeline just as a valve. Covered with a rain-proof cap, it can be operated outdoors.

2. Impeller mounted directly on the long axis of the motor, pump and motor bearing arrangement is reasonable, pump operation can effectively balance the radial and axial loads, thus ensuring the smooth operation of the pump, small vibration and low noise.  

3. Mechanical shaft seal, use of imported titanium alloy seal ring, medium and high temperature mechanical seal with carbide materials, anti-wearing no leakage.

4. Easy installation and maintenance, no need to open pipeline system, the rotation parts of the pump can be pulled out by removing the screws on the pump.  

5. According to the needs of flow and head, the pump can be used in series or parallel operation mode.

Application

ISG vertical pipeline centrifugal pump for conveying water or other liquids that physical and chemical properties similar to water, like industrial and urban water supply and drainage, high-rise building pressurized water, garden irrigation, fire boost, long-distance transport, HVAC refrigeration cycle, bathroom and heating equipment for pressurized water circulation, temperature < 80 degrees.  

Working Conditions

1. Suction pressure ≤ 1.0MPa, the maximum pump system working pressure≤ 1.6MPa, the pump hydrostatic test pressure ≤ 2.5MPa.  

2. Ambient temperature < 40 degrees, relative humidity≤ 40%.

3. Content of solid particles in the medium per unit volume does not exceed 0.1%, particle size < 0.2mm

Q: I drive a 99vw jetta and the coolant was leaking from it i took it to a repair shop they said the water pump was bad and that the seals on the water pump where bad that was defiantly where the coolant was leaking from. I replaced the water pump and drove my car this weekend no troubles, then this afternoon my coolant light came on and i put coolant in my car and it just started trickling out i called the repair shop they said it may just be a loose hose or clamp, is this true or am i looking at something worse than the water pump that has to be replaced?? or would that issue have already came up when they where looking for where the leak was coming from before it was repaired? please help
The pump may have indeed been bad. Did the shop put on the new pump or did you do it yourself? If it was done by the shop, take it back and make them fix it correctly. You have already paid them for the work. If you did it yourself, it should be fairly easy to spot where the leak is coming from. It is also rare but possible that the pump you put on was bad out of the box from the parts store. Not likely...but slim possibility. Hopefully it is just a loose clamp or hose.
Q: My father in law has a 95 jeep grand cherokee with the v~8 engine, the water pump started leaking so we went to autozone and bought a brand new duralast one with new gaskets, I'm gonna be putting it in when the weather lets me since i have to do it out on the street in front of the house, i was just wondering if anyone on here had any tips for me since i have never done one, I'm not a mechanic but i work on all my own vehicles since i am too poor to take them to a shop, i know a lot more about cars than he does so he asked me to help, it didn't look to hard but i'm not quite sure what im getting myself into, any advice or tips about this job is greatly appreciated. And please don't post telling me to take it to a mechanic as this is not a option for us, i will get it done i just thought somebody could help make it go a lil smoother with some pointers... Thanks
make sure the when ya take the old one off that ya clean the surface real good where it bolts on. razor blade to take off any old gasket ect. some fine sandpaper to sand it down smooth for the new gasket helps to,just dont gouge it.use some of that red silicone in a tube,can get it at any auto parts, smear both sides of the gasket,the engine , and the water pump. let it cure out till its almost dry. bolt the new one on but when ya tightening it down do the bottom bolts first then the top bolts. add the antifreeze and check for leaks .good luck
Q: im thinking about buying a 93 ford taurus for $950. the owner says it will probably need a new water pump and brakes in the near future. is it worth it? i dont know anything about cars!
New brakes are not a huge expense unless the discs need machining. Brakes should be done regularly as a part of on-going preventative maintenance. Water pump is not a big ticket item and is so easy to get at. Make sure you get a new gasket as well. Maybe $200 for brakes unless you know someone mech minded. $70-$80 for water pump plus fitting
Q: I went to have my car inspected for a leak at a friendly garage I know. They said I need a new water pump and in the mean time just keep the levels always checked and filled. Is it safe to drive for a while or can the pump totally fail and overheat the engine. As far as I know it's just leaking at this stage, the pulley and belts are fine.
Yes it could fail and end up doing more damage then just fixing it now.Pay now or pay more later if something happens.
Q: After I replaced the water pump impeller in my outboard I fired up the motor and now its not pumping any water through the pee-hole at all and also the prop is spinning in the neutral position (motor seems as if it is in gear and trying to move). Would this be because of the shift rod or the drive shaft not being in the proper position and possibly the impeller is being span the wrong in the impeller housing cup?
I had that problem once and the tube going to the pee-hole was blocked, the next time higher revs caused enough pressure to unblock it. With the motor NOT running, put it in forward, then neutral, or reverse then neutral. If the prop is locked, it's still in gear. If it was OK before the work, you probably need to re-adjust the linkage. The drive shaft from the motor only turns one way and so does the impeller. The prop shaft has a clutch dog that controls F-N-R through linkage adjustment. Good luck
Q: I think my water pump has crapped out on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee. I have been leaking coolant for a few days now and there is a puddle under my Jeep after I turn it off and my reserve tank keeps emptying out on me. I replaced the lower radiator hose and still the same problem. It is not over heating so I am wondering if it IS a water pump problem? If it is, could I do the work myself?
Go okorder They have on-line repair manuals for just about every car. You'll be guided through entering your vehicle make and engine size/type. Find the water pump and read the directions they give you. I changed the one on my Buick this way. It's cheaper and easier than buying the manual. If it looks to complicated, then take the car to a shop.
Q: leaking coolant after the car engine has stoppped
if your water pump is leaking fluid -its bad period- it should never leak unless installed incorrectly--signs for bad pump are-noise-grab fan blade wiggle if shaft moves-bad pump-open cap on radiator-no water moving-bad pump-bad pump--
Q: What is the part called on a water pump that does the actual water moving. I want only this part to make my own water pump using a different motor and pulley.This is for lifting water 18' high and circulating through 1/2 to 3/4 inch pipe. Hoping to get about 6 gl per min
The impeller .
Q: I brought my car to a shop because I get no heat. The mechanic diagnosed my car as having a blown gasket head because there were hydrocarbons in my coolant. The repair cost was too high, so a I figured I'd just run the car until it broke on me. A month later I see it overheating on the way to work and a month after that it completely powers down (electrically) while I'm driving and I see a lot of white smoke (coolant was all over the engine). After it's had time to cool down I can start it up just fine. I pour coolant in and it comes right back out the bottom of the water pump.Could a bad water pump have been the reason for the hydrocarbons and no heat in the first place? Could it have caused the appearance of hydrocarbons in my coolant? If the head gasket is blown and this is just a symptom, is it cost effective to replace the water pump or will it just break on me again in a short time?
Blown head gasket means white smoke out the tail pipe. To find out if the water pump is working, open up the radiator cap and look for moving water. If your car does not have a radiator cap then feel the hoses going to the radiator, if you feel rushing water then your water pump is working.
Q: I am about to replace the timing belt in a 3.4L Toyota V6 at approximately 85,000 miles. The motor has had the Toyota red coolant, which lubricates a water pump very well. Should I, Or should I not replace a Toyota Water Pump also, at this mileage (85,000)? Could the original water pump last until 170,000? Thank you
if it works dont fix it .ok .best leave it .

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