XBD-GDL Fire-fighting Pump

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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1. Summary

XBD-GDL series fire-fighting pump is a vertical multi-stage single-suction cylindrical centrifugal pump made with
the computerized design of optimization with the modern excellent hydraulic model and features a compact structure and a
reasonable and nice modelling and the indexes of both reliability and efficiency have been greatly raised, strictly conforming with the provisions is the latest national standard GB6245, fire-figthing pumps .

2. Operating Condition

Capacity: 1 ~ 45L/s
Pressure: 0.3 ~ 2.5MPa
Temperature: Below 80 ℃
Media: Pure water and the liquid similar to pure water
Betating: Direction CW viewing from the motor

3. Characteristic

a. Stable running with low noise

b. Simplified installation and assembly

c. No jamming at running

d. No leakage

Q: 1998 Honda civic water pump plastic or metal inside (OEM)?: OEM have plastic impellers. pretty sure.

Q: i replaced the water pump and redid the timing belt. now when i start it, it sounds like one of the cylinder is misfiring and makes a chucking noise. do you have to reconnect everything together to see if thats the problem? the engine worked fine before i replaced my water pump. engine like vibrates at each chucking noise. could it be incorrect timing even when the engine starts fine? or is one of the valves bent which is causing the vibration and noise? i checked teh spark plugs and they are fine could if be bad coils? or is the crankshaft weared out? please help and thanks for you help about my situation.: It should have nothing to do with the water pump. When you replaced the timing belt, you probably re-installed it a few notches/teeth off and the timing is off, and that's why you are getting the misfires. If the timing was WAY off when you re-installed it, there is a slim chance you could have bent some valves, but that's a long shot. You probably just have to re-adjust the timing belt and things will be fine.

Q: If there were no water at the discharge of a pump and then you had just fed water through and measured the pressure of the gauge...would that be a different pressure if the whole system (both inlet and outlet) were continuously filled with water?: 1.If there is no water at the discharge of the pump then there can be no pressure. 2. If there is water at the discharge of the pump, but the pump is not running, then there will be a pressure in the system. 3. If the pump is running, the pressure in the system will be higher than at 2.) above becuse it takes additional pressure to move the water through the piping. The flowing water requires additional pressure to get thru the piping system.

Q: Give me a general intro. about submersible water pumps.: This usually refers to the pump and electric motor, where the motor is sealed so that they can be submersed. The problem with many types of pump is that they are not self priming so the easy solution is to put it under the water. There are pumps where the motor is connected by a long shaft so that it remains out of the water while the pump is submersed but I'm not sure this is really classified as a submersed pump.

Q: Fire pump room is required to set up water pump control room?: What is the concept of fire pump control room? If there is a control room host automatic alarm automatic fire alarm system of words (through the pump distribution box can also control) can control the fire pump, if there is no distribution box automatic alarm system you can through the pump room control

Q: Fully automatic self-priming pump: It's difficult to answer your question only from the name you give! There are many automatic self suction pumps on the market. Generally, the pump outlet is equipped with a pressure switch. It starts automatically when the pressure is low, and stops after a certain pressure.If the pump outlet is the pool (water tank), then it is not a simple "automatic self-priming pump".It is an automatic water supply system. The whole system includes water pump, water tank, liquid level meter, electromagnetic starter (contactor), switch and so on

Q: It stops and every few minutes and when it stops, it sounds like water is running.: Ok lets go down the check list. 1) Is your cut off switch working good? Turning on and off at proper set pressure. (I don't know what you may have yours adjusted to. Mine is on at 70 off at 95.) 2) Is your expansion tank (or pressure tank) water logged? Knock on it. Does it sound full or partially full. Full is bad. You will need to shut off the water pump, close off any outgoing ports to the rest of the house, open the drain valve nearest that tank, and press your finger into the shraider valve at the top (the thing that looks like a tire stem valve). Drain the tank only. Then turn the water back on. 3) Do you have water softeners hooked up? Listen closely to the discharge tube. (this may be where it is coming from). IF you hear a leaking it is because the valve spring inside and washers need to be replaced. 4) do you have any other whole house filters? If so check the discharge tubes of them. 5) Do you have a reverse osmosis filter? IF so this is supposed to drain and you will hear it constantly. 6) Look for any water puddles 7) IF all these fail, then replace your water pump.

Q: The dealership wants nearly $500. to replace the water pump in our 2002 Tahoe (5.3) it's leaking from the weep hole. I'm somewhat mechanically declined, what precautions will I need to know and any special tools to do the job myself? I've done a few water pumps back in the 1980's that didn't leak Thank you: The dealerships are ridiculous. You probably need a ratchet and a couple sockets. You've done a water pump before? A water pump is still to this day, just a water pump. The difference is in where they put them nowadays. I don't know what kind of engine is in a 2002 tahoe, but I'm pretty sure it's not trans-mounted. So get in there, pull that sucker out, and replace it! Come on, you've done it before. And pick up a Hanes manual at the auto store. It will even walk you through the process, they come in very handy. I'm a mechanic, and I buy a Hanes manual for every car I own.

Q: Water is leaking from the front of my car, on the right where the radiator is located. only thing is that its not leaking a lot, just a little.... but people keep telling me that my timing belt is going to go out and that i will be stranded!. i will like to know the cost of both the water pump and timing belts for my 2001 PT Cruiser please.: A suggestion. If your car is around 70,000 to 100,000 miles then you should change the timing belt. If it breaks, it will leave you stranded, and cost you more because the engine may be damaged. (girlfriend ignored the warning and it cost her $1000 in engine parts - I was the free labor!) Because the timing belt runs the water pump, most mechanics recommend changing the water pump at the same time, the water pump does not cost that much more. Parts and labor for this cost about $700 to $1000, sometimes it costs a bit more because the idler pulley is worn and must be replaced also. As for your leak, it would be best to have the cooling system pressure tested to find the spot of the leak. If its sometime other than the water pump, you'll be glad you found it early. Good luck.

Q: I have a old house,1920's I think it was built. My water pump kicks on all the time! The tolite upstairs is not that old but the pipes are.The tolite runs for a min. and then stops for 5 mins. When I am running a bath..the second I turn off the water in the tub,the tolite starts to run! Same with the tolite downstairs,that one is only a few years old and the pipes are the same as it is an addition to the house. When I am up late at night in my office I hear the water pump kicking on in the basement ever 10 mins or so! My electric bill is huge! How can I fix this problem? What is causing it? I have not noticed any water leaks anywhere. We turned up the pressure on the pump. That helped a little. Thank god we have our own water well. Anyone have any Idea's?: The problem is your water system is not holding pressure properly. A couple of simple things to check are the *pressure switch. This switch monitors line pressure and turns pump on and off (ex: 20/40=pump on at 20PSI off at 40 PSI). Most older systems have this along with a pressure gauge screwed into top of pump. simply turn on water while someone monitors gauge. If it reads 20 and pump starts then reads 40 and pump shuts off it is not switch. If readings are way off change switch. *if you have a bladder tank, check the pressure in it (you can tell if it has a valve stem on top just like your car tires). There is us usualy a chart on top of the tank giving recomended pressure. Use a tire gauge to check pressure, if low put some air in it. If this does not work go talk to your local hardware or someone in the plumbing trade for better suggestions.

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