Fire Fighting Pump XBD-ISW

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: -

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Double Suction Split Casing Pump

Diesel generator powered trash water pump with trailer

Lathe Coolant Pump with High Quality JCB Series

WQ Industrial Submersible Sludge Pump Unit

Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Inline Pump

CDL Stainless Steel Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pumps

AC Solar Water Submersible Centrifugal Pump

ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

Range of application:
XBD (ISW) type fire pump is mainly used for fire protection system pressurized water supply in pipeline. They are also used for industrial and urban water supply and discharge, pressurized water supply in high-rise constructions, distant distance water delivery, heating, bathrooms and boilers, cold and hot water circulation pressurization air conditioning refrigeration system water delivery, and used to match other equipments.

Structure features:
XBD (ISW) type single suction single stage fire pump is composed of motor and pump of two parts, the pump and motor coaxial, pump structure including pump body, impeller, pump cover, mechanical seal, etc. Parts. The inlet and outlet of the pump in the same horizontal axis, and caliber same specification, loading and unloading is extremely convenient, cover an area of an area small. Pump has installed base, ease of installation, increase the pump running stability. Pump seal use of mechanical seal, with reliable sealing, no leakage characteristics. The axial force of pump impeller by a balance ring to balance. The import and export of the pump flange to press 1.6 MPa, line matching convenient.
XBD(ISW) type single-suction multi-stage sectional fire pump is composed of motor and pump two parts, motor as Y three-phase asynchronous motor, pump and motor using coupling joint, the overall for rigid connection, use without correction. Pump stator and rotor part by part. Pump stator parts by water section, the middle, guide vane and outlet section, stuffing box body, and other integral parts. To prevent stator wear, the stator with sealing ring, balance set, after wear available spare parts replacement. Rotor part by shaft, wheel, balance drum, etc. Rotor bottom water lubrication bearing, upside for angular contact ball bearing, pump axial force most by balancing drum to take, the rest of the small residual shaft downward force by angular contact ball bearing to bear. The middle section, water and water section of the joint surface paper pad through the tension to seal, user can choose according to need.

Performance parameter:

Type	FlowQ (L/s)	Outlet pressure (MPa)	Speed (r/min)	Power (Kw)	Efficiency(%)
XBD3.0/5-50(65)	5	0.30	2900	4	63
XBD3.2/5-50(65)		0.32
XBD3.4/5-50(65)		0.34
XBD4.6/5-50(65)	5	0.46	2900	7.5	58
XBD4.8/5-50(65)		0.48
XBD5.0/5-50(65)		0.50
XBD7.6/5-50(65)	5	0.76	2900	15	50
XBD7.8/5-50(65)		0.78
XBD8.0/5-50(65)		0.80
XBD11/5-50(65)	5	1.10	2900	30	40
XBD12/5-50(65)		1.20
XBD12.5/5-50(65)		1.25
XBD3.0/10-65(80)	10	0.30	2900	7.5	71
XBD3.2/10-65(80)		0.32
XBD3.4/10-65(80)		0.34
XBD4.6/10-65(80)	10	0.46	2900	15	67
XBD4.8/10-65(80)		0.48
XBD5.0/10-65(80)		0.50
XBD7.6/10-65(80)	10	0.76	2900	22	59
XBD7.8/10-65(80)		0.78
XBD8.0/10-65(80)		0.80
XBD11/10-65(80)	10	1.10	2900	37	54
XBD12/10-65(80)		1.20
XBD12.5/10-65(80)		1.25
XBD3.0/25-80(100)	25	0.30	2900	15	76
XBD3.2/25-80(100)		0.32
XBD3.4/25-80(100)		0.34
XBD4.6/25-80(100)	25	0.46	2900	22	74
XBD4.8/25-80(100)		0.48
XBD5.0/25-80(100)		0.50
XBD7.6/25-80(100)	25	0.76	2900	37	69
XBD7.8/25-80(100)		0.78
XBD8.0/25-80(100)		0.80
XBD11/25-80(100)	25	1.10	2900	75	69
XBD12/25-80(100)		1.20
XBD12.5/25-80(100)		1.25
XBD13/25-80(100)	25	1.30	2900	90	57
XBD14/25-80(100)		1.40
XBD15/25-80(100)		1.50
XBD3.0/45-100(125)	45	0.30	2900	22	73
XBD3.2/45-100(125)		0.32
XBD3.4/45-100(125)		0.34
XBD4.6/45-100(125)	45	0.46	2900	37	77
XBD4.8/45-100(125)		0.48
XBD5.0/45-100(125)		0.50
XBD7.6/45-100(125)	45	0.76	2900	55	80
XBD7.8/45-100(125)		0.78
XBD8.0/45-100(125)		0.80
XBD11/45-100(125)	45	1.10	2900	90	70
XBD12/45-100(125)		1.20
XBD12.5/45-100(125)		1.25
XBD2.8/55-150(200)	55	0.28	1450	30	78
XBD3.0/55-150(200)		0.30
XBD3.2/55-150(200)		0.32
XBD4.6/55-150(200)	55	0.46	1450	45	75
XBD4.8/55-150(200)		0.48
XBD5.0/55-150(200)		0.50
XBD7.6/55-150	55	0.76	2900	75	76
XBD7.8/55-150		0.78
XBD8.0/55-150		0.80
XBD11/55-150	55	1.10	2900	110	73
XBD12/55-150		1.20
XBD12.5/55-150		1.25
XBD13/55-150	45	1.30	2900	110	80
XBD14/55-150		1.40
XBD15/55-150		1.50
XBD4.6/100-200	100	0.46	1450	75	81
XBD4.8/100-200		0.48
XBD5.0/100-200		0.50
XBD3.0/150-250	150	0.30	1450	75	80
XBD3.2/150-250		0.32
XBD3.4/150-250		0.34
XBD4.6/140-250	140	0.46	1450	90	72
XBD4.8/140-250		0.48
XBD5.0/140-250		0.50
XBD2.4/200-300	200	0.24	970	75	81
XBD2.6/200-300		0.26
XBD2.8/200-300		0.28
XBD2.8/200-300(350)	200	0.28	1450	90	84
XBD3.0/200-300(350)		0.30
XBD3.2/200-300(350)		0.32
XBD4.0/200-300	200	0.40	970	132	84
XBD4.2/200-300		0.42
XBD4.4/200-300		0.44
XBD4.6/160-300	160	0.46	1450	110	78
XBD4.8/160-300		0.48
XBD5.0/160-300		0.50
XBD4.6/200-350	200	0.46	1450	160	83
XBD4.8/200-350		0.48
XBD5.0/200-350		0.50
XBD2.8/300-400	300	0.28	1450	132	76
XBD3.0/300-400		0.30
XBD3.2/300-400		0.32
XBD2.8/330-500	330	0.28	1450	160	78

Q: Okay heres the deal Its knockin and I tthink the water pump is going would this be a cause of this and when it heats up it knocks but when its cold it doesnt knock also once it gets hot it shuts off and starts to smoke what could this be is it maybe the waterpump when I try to re start the car after it shuts it self off it only just clicks wount turn over thanks: jason is right on this. a water pump wont do what your saying. it sounds more like something inside the engine is knocking, like a rod bearing.

Q: I have a 2000 dodge 1500 the water pump is leaking and the belt is real squeaky. Are these related?: No! The belt is squeaky because It needs to be replaced! And you're water pump is its own separate problem!

Q: I need instructions on taking the old one out and replacing it with a new one. Photos will be helpful: Water Pump RemovalRemoval: Disconnect battery ground cable and drain coolant from engine. Loosen water pump idler pulley bolt and remove belt from water pump pulley. Remove water pump inlet tube. Remove three water pump retaining bolts and water pump, Fig. 16. Installation: Clean both gasket mating surfaces on water pump and cylinder block. Install three water pump retaining bolts and tighten to 20-30 N-m (15-22 ft-lbs). Connect water pump inlet tube on water pump. Install water pump belt on pulley and adjust tension to specification. Connect battery ground cable. Replace engine coolant. Operate engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Check for leaks and recheck coolant level. Couldn't get the picure but this should help, the pump is located on the backside of the engine, just be carefull, this engine is really easy to get the pulley on backwards then the belt won't line up right.

Q: i want to hook a pressure booster pump to a well pump so i can have some pressure out of the well, is this doable?thanks!: If you connect two pumps in series and not parallel the pressure will increase but you need to have them connected so if the well stops running the other does also.

Q: To express in writing, you can add appropriate pictures (composition form, preferably 600 or more, not enough, OK, I put together a bit, will give points!) What kind of person would you help me with?: The main flow of water pump (take centrifugal pump as an example):Technical determination of Drawing > raw material storage > mold preparation > casting moulding > machining > parts experiment > Assembly > performance experiment > painting packing > storage.Here are a few key steps:1) the technique determines the graphMainly the work of designers. Generally according to the parameters of the pump (flow, lift, cavitation, efficiency, etc.) to determine the specific speed of pumps, impeller form, impeller size, impeller material, pump body, pump shaft and so on. One of the most important thing is to draw the impeller woodenpatterns.2) die preparationThe mold is mainly composed of workers according to the water pump impeller woodenpatterns production model.3) casting moldingThe casting molding sand is made on the base of the mould.4) machiningWater pump parts processing, because it has hydraulic flow channel, in considering the positioning clamping standard, must find the correct flow channel of the correct position. Avoid assembly, resulting in water pressure chamber and impeller flow channel skew, dislocation, uneven gap, or even rub, affecting product quality. In order to ensure the accuracy of parts manufacturing, it is necessary to design the appropriate tooling, and reasonable arrangements for technological processes, control process factors.

Q: So I have a 2.4L chrysler cirrus. The water pump appears to be not working(pumping the fluid through) and the car over heats. They location is on the side since its a front wheel drive car. I have both a Chilton and Haynes manual and they both say i need to loosen the front engine mount and lower it. Thats about it really..Now i was wonder couldnt that mess up something. I dont plan on doing this myself but i would like to know how. Is it possible for the engine to fall out? Might sound stupid but im not sure how all that will work so i would like to know. Thanks -Joe: No worries.. there are sometimes four mounts on a transversed engine. (front wheel drive) two at the top, on the frame rail supports, or on the inner fenders, these hold most of the weight of the engine and trans, there are normally two more, but I have seen only one used in some models, these are used to support the engine from twisting or rock on the upper mounts, due to tork or braking forces of the engine. removing ether of these mounts will not effect the support of the engine, as the two upper mounts do all the supporting of the drive-train. Loosening the front mount is safe, just remember that once the front mount is removed, a certain amount of swing or free play will result, as the engine will now just be hanging from it's top mounts, and will hang freely from it's center of gravity, so expect it to move some when mount is loosened or removed, be careful not to get your hand, or other part of the body, pinched or caught when the weight shifts. go slow.. and nobody get hurt... with the possible exception of a few busted knuckles.

Q: Was able to remove all bolts except the one in the rear of engine one of the bigger bolts the pulley from the serpentine belt blocks itdoes the pulley need to be removed and if yes then how: yes you,ll probably have to remove the pulley from it to get to all of them,i usually remove the pulley first anyway ,this makes it a lot easier to do ,but you should be able to get to the bolt after the pulley is off,good luck i hope this help,s.

Q: My house uses a pump that draws well water. With a family of four, I had never had a problem running out of water, even through 4 morning showers. Recently however, I have started running low and sometimes even run dry of water, although it’s now just me and my wife living at home. The pump is only a couple of years old. A couple of neighbors also have wells and pumps, so I don’t believe the water shelf has run low. The holding tank is at least 15 years old and probably older. I don’t know if it has a bladder, but I think it does. It’s a Wel-Trol brand. I’ve checked the pressure with a tire gauge and it holds at 30 psi. Also, it seems the cut in and out switch has a mind of its own. It especially would continue to run, even though the pressure hit cut-off level. Any ideas or suggestions?Thanks: Hmmmmm. I think I would look at the pressure switch here if you can confirm that the well does have adequate water in it. The next thing is the small pipe that the pressure switch mounts on. If it is galvanized these have a tendancy over the years to build up deposits and rusty scale and may need to be replaced. It sounds like you have the bladder style of pressure tank and that is a good thing. To check the proper pressure in the bladder watch to see the cut off pressure of the pump as it cycles. Note this. Turn the pump off and completely drain off the pressure tank. Check and adjust the pressure at the top of the Wel-Trol to be 2 to 4 pounds less than the pressure cutoff that you noted using compressed air. As the other posts have mentioned you also may have a leak in the pressure line to your house. The way to test this is turn off all the water to the house and see if there is a check valve in the T at the pressure tank. It will look like a tube about 2 inches in diameter and 4 inches long. Usually there is not one here as they clack when the pump shuts off. If there is not one note the pressure. See if it drops. There should be no drop. If it is a drilled well there may be a leak in the pipe down the well and this usually requires a visit from a well servicing company to determine. Hope this helps.

Q: The car water pump is broken. What are the symptoms?: China water pump trading network for you to answer: car water leakage symptoms are mainly 1, leakage (water leakage is minor and serious), slight leakage, only in the water pump ventilation holes left on the traces of coolant color. Serious is the direct cause of higher temperature Water Leakage, symptoms of a lack of cooling liquid; 2, the weak ability of circulating pump circulation: if the ability is weak, will appear high temperature phenomenon, especially in the southern summer is more obvious; 3, abnormal sound; if the water pump bearing internal problems, abnormal noises in the belt drive that may be slight, you did not find.

Q: I have replaced my water heater and water pump because the owner before me didnt drain it over the winter... but know the water suputers when the pump is on.. when I hook up to city water it works great.. I have not been able to find any leaks.. any ideas???: A lot of the pumps for RVs do cause a slight sputter, Try compleatly filling the water tank, then turning the pump on,. Allow a few minutes to build up pressure and fill the hot water tank, If the sputtering slows, or compleatly stops, your ok. You have to remember that a lot of after market pumps don't work quite as well as an OEM pump. If it's a real bad sputtering, You might need to return the pump.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit