• End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation System 1
  • End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation System 2
  • End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation System 3
End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation

End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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                        End Suction Centrifugal Pump

1.Structure of End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of the End Suction Water Pump

very easy to be installed and maintained

Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.End Suction Water Pump Specification

End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation

4.Picture of End Suction Pump

End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

 

Q:my sump pump keeps filling with sewer water. i cant figure out why or where it could be coming from. and the smell is awful.
A sump pump is designed for use in the basements of homes whose water tables make them prone to flooding. Many basements are actually below the water table. This means that should the integrity of the walls or floor of the basement be breached, the basement could flood. This would result in thousands of dollars of water damage to anything in the basement, as well as the loss of anything irreplaceable that's stored there. Even should no breach occur, a great deal of moisture and condensation forms over of time within such spaces. Typically the water drains into a hole in the basement floor called a sump pit. When the water level in the hole rises to a certain level, the sump pump engages and removes the water. A pedestal sump pump, for example, has a long rod that extends down into the sump pit. At the top of the rod sits an electrical motor. Beside the rod is an inflated plastic bubble such as the kind one finds in flush toilets, attached to a pressure switch. When the water level rises beyond the bubble, the bubble is buoyed upward and activates the pressure switch. The switch turns on the electric motor, which sucks the water out of the sump pit and passes it through a connecting PVC pipe. This pipe may lead outward into the soil away from the house's foundation, or it may be connected to the wastewater system that connects to the house's drains and toilets. In either case, the water is pumped out automatically.
Q:We have a low area in our back yard. The previous owner had a pump installed. The flow switch is in the ground at the lowest point of the yard. The actual pump is 2 feet or so, higher up. We have not had to use it much. But last week, when we have the big storm, it stopped working. It some how worked again, but pumping a lot slower, then it stop pumping again. With this pump, I had to add water to get it primed. The last time I try to add water, the water drains instantly. Any one how what could be wrong with it? It was suggest a seal was broken. Thanks for your help.
If you say that the pump is 2 feet higher you must have a hose onthe suction side of the pump it probably has a foot valve on the end of the hose it must be hung open thats why when you try to prime the the the water flows thru check to see if there is any debris holding the check valve open if there is clean it out close the valve prime with water and try to pump
Q:I have coolant leaking out and i'm pretty sure now that it is the water pump. Question can water pumps leak even if the cars not running?Like a steady drip every two seconds? Forming a decent puddle after awhile, but when running the pump is'nt making any abnormal noises is that normal? Is there other clues to positively know the pump is bad? I cant believe how hard a job it looks like it would be to replace it there is no room! Anybody with some helpful how to's? how about an estimate on how much a shop would charge to do it?
Yes, water pump seals will leak all the time (worse when under pressure). It is not a hard job if you now what your doing. Get a repair manual and make sure you have all the right tools and parts before you start.
Q:I put the new water pump in and the metal tube that goes to the heater hose it is hitting the wheel that holds the 3 belts that goes onto the water pump. why is it doing that. got the right pump. I have a 1986 firebird V6. any ideas?
the wheel that holds the 3 belts that goes onto the water pump is called the pulley. You may need to check the old water pump for a spacer between the pump and the pulley. If the tube is not straight you may need to turn it some. Verify that you are not putting the pulley on backwards. Although the auto parts store claims that it is the right water pump, they may be wrong, and may have given you the wrong one. To find out lay the side that goes against the engine on a flat surface next to the original to see if the height is the same for the shaft that the pulley goes on. If you cannot solve this you may want to take both water pumps, the pulley, the bolts that hold the pulley on and the tube for the heater hose to the auto parts store and ask them. Often they have some experience in automotive repair and may be able to show you...the main difference between them and us is they will be able to see the parts, and we cannot.
Q:I'm trying to make water pump with solar energy. I need to have good water pump. Could you find good websites to find DC 12v water pump, or is there any place that I can get it?
Another option is to go to a marine [boat] supply house, or a boat dealer, and get what is called a Bilge Pump. Bilge pumps are designed to pump water and most of them operate on 12 volts DC. This would probably be less expensive the dedicated solar energy equipment which is usually overpriced. Also, in our area [SE Texas, on the Gulf of Mexico] most automotive supply houses [like Advance, Autozone, O'Reilly, Carquest, etc.] carry Bilge Pumps.
Q:I was looking at a water pump and the specs said 110 Foot Max. Total Head and 20 Foot Max. Suction Lift. Can someone please explain this? Thanks.
I have two ponds, one that is always full and one that is always low. They are 550 ft apart and there is a change in upward elevation of about 35ft. What pump is needed to allow me to transfer water from the lower pond to the upper pond?
Q:What is the reason that the water supply of pump is getting smaller?
1, the water pump screen plug, should remove the filter screen sundries.2, the use of lift is too high. Over the pump range, the pump should be adjusted to use height or replace the pump head.3, pump impeller plug or wear, should remove the impeller sundry. Replace the impeller if worn.4, pump outlet pipe blocked by debris, should remove the debris in the pipe outlet.5, diameter and pump does not match, replace the outlet pipe.6, the pump cover gap is too large, increased pump volume loss, should adjust the gap.7, pump body and pump cover leakage, should tighten the pump cover screw, make the pump body and pump cover close coordination.8, the pump speed is low, the use of voltage is too low. Should adjust the voltage to the rated value, replace the thicker cable or avoid peak use.9, water pump diving depth is too shallow, there is air intake, should adjust the diving depth. Pump running depth is not less than 0.5 meters.Yi Mai water pump to help you answer, I hope to help you
Q:I have a old house,1920's I think it was built. My water pump kicks on all the time! The tolite upstairs is not that old but the pipes are.The tolite runs for a min. and then stops for 5 mins. When I am running a bath..the second I turn off the water in the tub,the tolite starts to run! Same with the tolite downstairs,that one is only a few years old and the pipes are the same as it is an addition to the house. When I am up late at night in my office I hear the water pump kicking on in the basement ever 10 mins or so! My electric bill is huge! How can I fix this problem? What is causing it? I have not noticed any water leaks anywhere. We turned up the pressure on the pump. That helped a little. Thank god we have our own water well. Anyone have any Idea's?
similar problems with mine a year ago..and I eventually called in the water well professionals..It ended up being the pump itself on the end of the pipe down in the well..I then replaced the toilet fluidmaster and flapper anyway!
Q:does anyone know the proper way to take the lower gearcase off and install a new water pump kit. it is a 1986.
This is a simple repair but I'd recommend that you get a service manual, ether a factory manual or one of the generic Seloc manuals. The key things to do are mark the trim tab so you can put it back in the same position after repairs. Drain the oil. Removing the bolt that is in the hole at the back end of the upper housing, as well as all the obvious Nuts. both above and under the cavitation plate. Put the drive in forward gear, which takes the tension off the shift shaft. Once all the nuts and bolt are loose. Jiggle the drive and it will separate from the upper housing. You now have access to the water pump housing. Remove the housing and pull it up and off the d. Shaft. Inspect fully and account for missing impeller blades. When you re assemble Lube the impeller and put the drive key in place and put the impeller in place. Slide the housing down to the impeller. You can use ether th drive shaft or the propeller to turn the drive shaft in a clockwise direction as you apply pressure on the housing, It should slide down over the impeller. Reassemble in reverse order. Slide the drive shaft up into the upper housing turning the D. shaft using the prop to turn the shaft. Watch the water tube slip into the guide tube. Once it's in place put a couple nuts on then check the gear shift to make sure it goes F-N-R. Bolt up and fill with oil. Good Luck!
Q:What are the conditions for the series and parallel connection of the pumps?
Water pumps in series require equal flow, and the latter should be able to withstand the pressure of two pumps and.The parallel pump requires the pump with equal lift head, and the outlet pipe in parallel shall be chosen according to the flow rate of two pumps.

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