ISO End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation

ISO End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation System 1

ISO End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Water Irrigation

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 10000 set/month

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End Suction Centrifugal Pump

1.Structure of End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of the End Suction Water Pump

• very easy to be installed and maintained

•Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.End Suction Water Pump Specification

4.Picture of End Suction Pump

5.FAQ

① What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

② Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

Q: I think my water pump is going bad but figure id ask everyone to see what they thought. I leak coolant like the first 20 min i drive my truck and then it will seal itself up for the next day or two then start leaking again. It is getting leaked all over the belt and the fan is spraying it all around so you cant tell where exactly its coming from but i checked all the hoses and they are good and im pretty sure its not the radiator. Also, when it is leaking there is a loud whining noise when my trucks on and i heard that can be from the pump too.: LOOK okorder on internet! WHAT SIZE IS ENGEIN HERE! FOur, five, six, eight yidner from WHAT COMPANY! NOBODY can answer thsi question for you without MORE DETAILS! THANX!

Q: We are leasing land from a friend to put horses on. We're in the process of building a barn. We don't want to run water out there because its too much trouble for the meter and everything, but someone said to get a water pump and pump the water from the pond and filter it and use it. I have no idea what all we need or what kind of pump to get. Helpp!: There are many choices and lots of problems. You probably can use a small system with garden hose even depending on how much water you need. There are a lot of variables to define. How much water ie gallons per day? How far do you have to pump it? Is it uphill or downhill? What quality is the pond water? Filtering is a little harder but you should find in line systems or something on the web once you determine the flow rate etc. That may determine the rate you can pump at ie the filter capacity. Do you have electric? If not you need a gas setup pump or generator. What kind of storage tank are you going to pump water into? Sounds like your filter will be the big thing. If you pump 100 gal thats about two bathtubs full. If you pump that in 100 minutes that is 1 gallon per minute. Thats small. So if you can find a filter to do say 1 to 10 gpm and that type pump you can do two bathtubs or more in two hours or so. If you go to 10 gpm thats about the max for a garden hose. Thats more what you would want to spray from the system. Your filter is the key. How clean is the water? Then you need a pump for the flow rate and pressure that can go through the filter. City meter sounds easier now doesnt it?

Q: they say a water pump going bad is supposed to weep out of that hole....Yet I see that a new water pump kit has two gaskettes.some o rings....is it likely that it can leak from these sources and still not come out the weep hole?They talk about berring that could go bad or seals gone bad...does this occure in the area that gets inserted into the engine( the turbine portion of the pump)if you had to guess..where is the most likely area for a water pump to fail...if seems like I have wetness off to the left( back toward the firewall) and less off to the right( front of the car)..more off the left..it is very subtile off the right.I don't see anything coming out of the weep hole..BUT the weephole is directly on top( dead center)and back towards the engine in this model. I have the car jacked up on the passengers side/next to the wheel wellso the fluid is most likely to flow backwards toward the drivers side.: A water pump could have all the works above the water, pulling via suction and pushed via atmospheric rigidity to a optimal of roughly 33 ft. Or it could have the motor above water and the lifting mechanism below with an prolonged rod connecting (like an oil properly with the donkey engine on the outdoors), yet a gaggle of weight and friction. Or it truly is waterproofed and the motor and pump decreased down the drilled shaft on a plastic pipe with an electric cord jointly with and push the water up. The final is a submersable. further sump pumps and recirculating pumps the place the cord, motor, and pump are below the liquid.

Q: My 2000 Chevy Cavalier (2.4L) has been overheating pretty majorly (within a 10 minute drive!) when it's been super cold out, about 5F. I took it to the shop and they told me it was my water pump. Right after getting out of the shop, the problem went away for an entire week and the car's temperature has been at exactly what it's been for years - never past 195. It seems to be back now, though not as severe. It's about 20F now.Could the weather have to do with this??Why would the problem go away like that?I'm female and definitely do not seem educated walking into a shop so they can really tell me anything and I'll buy it. I just wanna see if the problem going away like that makes any sense, or if I should just wait out long trips until it warms up outside.It doesn't look like I'm losing coolant, though my low coolant light goes in and out.I have no idea. Thoughts?Thank you!!: They were trying to do you a favor silly. When you took it in they checked it out and found that the water pump was leaking, an expensive job on that engine. You probably said something to make them believe that you don't have the money to fix it right away so they topped up your coolant reservoir and your car ran just fine until it leaked out and started overheating again. You will be buying an engine or junking this car very soon if you don't repair the water pump. OK, but they did top up the coolant trying help you, but you're not listening....

Q: 1998 jeep cherokee water pump: Two more things to add... 1. Buy a chilton manual. it will help and give step-by-step instructions and pictures. 2. (assuming a 4.0l 6cyl) The water pump doesn't just come off. The bolts holding the water pump also hold the AC, Alternator, and Power Steering pump. Its not a big deal, but it takes a while and you don't take these out, just lay them to the side. Personally, it was worth having the local shop do the work.

Q: no water is running my deep well pump kicks on every 15 min. it runs for 1-2 min when it kicks off then a noise like someone threw a ball against the house. can you help: check the back flow preventor sound like it might have trash and or build up casing it to stay in the closed position and when your pump turn off you hear that thud like sound due to the pump having to be slammed it reverse do to pressure build up.

Q: water pump on a Suzuki forenzakia optima: You better shop around on that one but you're looking at a few hundred dollars minimum. The newer the car, the more you're going to pay to get it fixed.

Q: I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!: This is a hot topic even among Honda enthusiasts and professionals. The whole deal about changing the water pump, as you probably know, is that the labor to do that is small once the timing belt is out of the way. However - and this is the big issue - most original Honda water pumps last a very long time, even more than 200K miles. Do you feel lucky? One big issue enters here: what sort of antifreeze has been used in it? If it still has Honda antifreeze (dark green in your 1997, as I recall) the pump is probably still good for another 100K miles even if the coolant has not been changed on schedule. If it has conventional (bright) green or some other coolant that is not known to be silicate free I strongly recommend replacing the pump with an OEM pump. See the first source for the reason. In any case, I recommend replacing the water pump with the next timing belt change if you don't do it this time. 300K miles is a lot to ask of a pump seal. I also strongly recommend not going with an aftermarket pump - OEM only. I make a habit of always replacing the pump and tensioner(s). EDIT - Shane A has a good point. If the water pump fails next year the price of a new pump and tensioner will seem trivial. The pain of higher cost is temporary, the peace of mind is lasting.

Q: Domestic pump does not use water, or turn, I do not know why?: Your home should be the pipeline booster pump, a pressure switch outlet of the pump, if no water will switch off, open the water tap water pump will work ~ ~ should be the pressure spring on this switch is broken, with 4 years of spring rust, not the original so good toughness. Another reason is that when the water pressure is not enough, the pump will work, but this can be ruled out.

Q: If you use a water pump to move water through a circular trench, essentially making a little river, and then place some kind of turbine or water wheel or something to generate electricity from the moving water, couldn't you use the electricity generated by the turbine to power the pump, thus requiring no outside power?: This Site Might Help You. RE: Is a perpetual energy water pump possible? If you use a water pump to move water through a circular trench, essentially making a little river, and then place some kind of turbine or water wheel or something to generate electricity from the moving water, couldn't you use the electricity generated by the turbine to power the pump, thus...

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