End Suction Water Pump for Water Irrigation

End Suction Water Pump for Water Irrigation System 1

End Suction Water Pump for Water Irrigation

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 10000 set/month

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End Suction Centrifugal Pump

1.Structure of End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of the End Suction Water Pump

• very easy to be installed and maintained

•Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.End Suction Water Pump Specification

4.Picture of End Suction Pump

5.FAQ

① What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

② Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

Q: water pump and thermostat were replaced 18 months ago motors done about 20 hrs since replacement have checked and there are no blockagers in water tube what could be the problem thanks: change ever year rubber don,t last sitting on in the heat

Q: I'm doing a DCP project which is at its concept design stage.In order to estimate the chilled water pump size and ratings roughly, could anybody give me some tips on the average/normal chilled water pump heads for a typical 10000 TR DCP. The length of the longest loop could be around 600 m single run.: to boot to the availability and go back line, if there are different factors in the equipment at the same time with administration valves and warmth exchangers, their rigidity drop also desires to be protected.

Q: Does the water pump pump the coolant into the engine or pump it out?: Strictly speaking, the pump is powered cooling fluid circulation, which is pumped into and out of the water pump is to rely on to complete the engine, the water tank and the pipelines are connected to form a closed loop, the engine cooling water tank, heat release, heat exchange by circulating cooling liquid, and let the power coolant flow up from the water, like the human heart as the power of the arteries and veins are provided by the contraction and relaxation of the heart of the.

Q: Hello, i have a 1987 volkswagen cabriolet that i purchased earlier this year. So far its been a pain in the butt. Recently i noticed it overheats real quick, but it didnt use to. then i noticed the coolant/antifreeze was being used up like no other! I discovered, after being parked at work, that it was leaking.it leaks basically anything i put in there now!! it leaks from the water pump housing,.,.... at least thats what the internet said it was.. its leaking from the end of the hose that connects to the engine... (the hose that comes from the coolant reservoir.)What do i do? I dont feel any cracks? does this part crack? is it an o-ring or somehting? I am really absolutely NOTHING ABOUT CARS. Please help!!: You say it has been below freezing for a while. *IF* it has been very cold and *IF* your pipes are not below the frost lines in your area, then the pipe could be frozen. That would cause the pump to likely trip out as it would over-work while trying to push water through ice (not easily done!) The good news is if the pipe is frozen, it is most likely frozen near the point where the water goes into or out of the ground. If you have access to 110 power in both of those areas, (or can get it there by some safe means) try this. Take a heating pad (like you use for sore backs/ knees) and wrap it around the pipe right at the point where it transitions into the ground. Tie it in place with string or yarn and turn it on at it's highest setting. After about an hour try turning on the pump. Still trip? Give it another hour. Still trip? Do the other end. Believe me this works surprisingly well, and once you get the water flowing, even just a little bit, the rest will melt quickly. Good Luck. James

Q: When we turn our water on in the house it will run for a while and then shut off.. It has been coming back on after 5 0r 6 mins.it used to do this about once a week but now it does it every day we don't mess with any breakers because they don't get triped . We are on well and this well is about 7 yrs old anyone have an idea what could be the problem .. If any more info is needed I can reply..: Would say the pressure switch is bad. You might try TURNING OFF THE POWER to the well. Use a voltage tester to make sure it is off. Use a finger nail file to file the contacts of the switch, make sure they are clean and smooth when you are through. Turn power on and watch operation of the switch, If you have a pressure gage at the switch the switch should make at about 30 psi and open at about 50 psi. If you have to replace switch be sure and add a pressure gage as it is very helpful in setting switch and troubleshooting system..

Q: What is the defection of water pump: Reversing the pump will cause the motor to increase current, small water or no water

Q: I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks: If it's going down while nobody is using water then the check valve or foot valve is leaking through when the pump is off. It should pump it to a determined PSI then shut off. I suppose there could be a leak somewhere in the line, but I suspect the check valve. It's pretty common. ....the ballast does need to be pressurized but I doubt that's your problem. If that was bad you would have severe water hammer.

Q: I recently bought a 01 firebird trans am. was doing some maintenance on it. basic stuff, tune up, serpentine belt, break flush, and a coolant flush. I didn't notice any leakage in the car, and neither did any mechanics before. Last week when i did all these basic maintenance i went back to check up on one more thing. The mechanic raised my car up and asked when I'm replacing my water pump.Seeing that it was leaking...but the liquid wasn't green, more or less brown and it didn't have any particular smell, but its not coming from the oil pan. What I'm thinking is that maybe the hoses were completely tightened? All help would be appreciated! thank you!: Check your coolant levels. Take a drive and let the engine get warm enough for the thermostat to open. This is easily checked by grabbing the upper radiator hose that comes from the thermostat housing. Be careful because it will be really warm. (Most thermostats open at 165 to 185 degrees.) If that is warm, great. With the car running, while parked on a clean surface where you can see if there's a drip, look under the car. Any dripping? Water pumps will more often show that they are gone without making any real noise. They have a weep hole, a place where when the seals goes, it lets water drip out and this is obvious. Water coming from there will be obvious. If there's not a slow or steady stream of water coming out, then it's likely NOT to be the water pump. Turn the engine off and look for wet spots. Is there water around the radiator cap? Is there water around any of the hose connections. Are there any bulges in the hoses? If nothing is really obvious, go to the auto parts store and buy Bars Leak radiator sealant. When you get home, drain half a gallon or so of water from the radiator. Shake the Bar leaks really well and pour it into the radiator. Go for a drive. Drive for 5 minutes, get the engine heat up and drive home. Any minor leak, even at the hose bib, in the radiator, or in the water jacket will be fixed. This stuff has a guarantee so if it doesn't work, go get your money back. You're looking at spending under 10 bucks, by the way.

Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.: these prices are correct for dealership quote. you will get a cheaper price with independent shop. your timing belt should be changed anytime after 75k miles. the timing belt and belt tensioner will break and you do not want to have replace the cyl. head, it's alot more money. the dealership lied about your water pump. that year the water pump runs off the drive belts not the timing belt. you can replace the water pump and not even touch your timing belt. your cam adjuster seal probably not leaking. what happens is the valve cover leaks oil on to the cam adjuster and is commonly mis-diagnosed. try just changing the valve cover gasket, clean up your excess oil and reinspect the seals on the back of your cylinder head after 500 miles. good luck.

Q: I have a toyota supra 83 Mechanic said water pump is leaking into engine causing white smoke. He said that hell have to replace water pump nd all gaskets estimated about 500+$ is this accurate? Also water resevoir mysteriously loses water can it be a symptom?: Sounds fair to me. if it's a 7mgte have him do the timing belt while he has it all apart.

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