Electric Motor YL
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| YL INTRODUCE: YL series single phase capacitor start and capacitor running electric motor suitable for air compressor,water pump and other equipment requiring high torque. This series electric motor features by its high starting performance,overload capability,power factor and eficiency,low noise,light weight,little shape and easy maintance. Protection Class: IP44/IP54/IP55 Cooling type: IC0141 Insulation Class: B or F Operation Type: S1 Rated Volt.: 115/230?220V Rated Frequency: 60Hz(50Hz) Shell Material:casting iron,aluminum alloy(only used below 100) |  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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- Q:How do I change the water pump in my 1998 ford mustang manual v6?
- If you don't already know how to do it, then take it to a shop to have it done by the professionals. If you insist on trying it yourself, buy a Chilton's manual for your car, do some online research (with pictures), and buckle down. You will need to loosen the belts, remove the belts, remove the water pump, replace it, and reinstall everything. You will need to make sure that the belt is routed the correct way, or BOOM! You might also want to replace the timing belt while you're in there. It makes sense to replace it if you already are removing it, and the timing belt is something you can't afford to have go bad on you.
- Q:The meter on my dash was reading low even after driving for 20 minutes on a sunny day. Then all of a sudden it jumped over the 270 mark. I have a relatively new thermostat could my water pump have gone bad? I did not see any leaking coolant or anything under the vehicle.
- first check the coolant level, make sure it is full, this may be all it is, it could also be the thermostat went bad, this is not that unusual for a new thermo. to fail, make sure the belt to the pump is good, unlikely the pump is bad if it is not leaking or making any noise at all! but, when the new thermo. was installed did you purge all the air from the system, at times and in some autos air will become trapped and you have to bleed the air out of it, some have a bleeder screw and some don't, the ones that do not have a bleeder then you have to raise the front end of the car to the point where the radiator top is higher than the engine and make sure the heat is turned on and set to high!
- Q:I live in a condo building -- 3 floors, 7 units. In our storage units (right below my unit) is a water pump that was hooked up with the intent of helping the water flow to the 3rd floor. Everytime the pump goes off, it rattles, then makes a loud noise when it kicks off. The developers created a drywall box that houses the pump, which is surrounded by isolation, but it doesn't seem like it helps the noise. The pump also rattles the pipes that connect directly to the pump.My question is -- is this rattling normal for a standard water pump? If so, is there anything I can do to help cut down on the noise? If this is rattling is not normal of the standard water pump, what would it cost to replace it with something decent?
- I do not know the kind of pump you are referring to. I will give my personal expertise. If it is a pump taking water from a tank, the piping might be loose, the knocking may be corrected with some air ventilation pipe. If it is pumping from a water tank: I suggest you look at a submersible pump capable of supplying water to 3rd floor. This kind of pump is less noisy. The noise at start, is the electric starter, and the noise at the end is when water returns and seals the stop valve. Also some air may be in the pipe, you need to purge the pump, as often as needed, try this first, and then the others. Good luck
- Q:I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
- It's time for a new pump, this is not an appliance that you want to worry about or cut corners with. I would recommend a plumbing supply house that has a little better quality pump. Zoeller makes a very reliable submersible, you won't have to worry for another 15 years.
- Q:How large is the starting current for a 1.5 kW submersible pump?
- If single-phase, the no-load current is about 3.7A, the rated current is about 10A.
- Q:My Camry is overheating and I am assuming it is the water pump. I already changed the thermostat and that was no help. When I turn the heater on to cool off the engine, it blows cold air or the temp of the air outside most of the time and seldomly hot air. I bought a water pump, but I am not sure if this is something I can do?
- sure and no. Toyotas have in no way been super automobiles, yet for some reason have carried out the acceptance that they are reliable. right this is a few information you're able to not comprehend approximately that 1997 Camry you listed. it particularly is a wreck-down engine. quite, it has a scheduled wreck-down era of 60,000 miles. it is how long you are able to pass formerly changing the timing belt, or the finished engine breaks while the timing belt does. particular, sellers and such will call it ordinary upkeep, yet while something expenses you $800 or with the objective to repair, is that quite upkeep? 2nd, the final twenty years or so of Toyotas have had terrible sludge problems. quite they're poorly made engines that permit some hydrocarbons (gas debris) into the oiling device, alongside with some exhaust and different airborne dirt and airborne dirt and dirt and debris, which creates sludge, that is a sticky, goopy substance. while it coats the shifting areas, it will strengthen friction, will strengthen positioned on, and decreases the existence of the engine. It additionally reduces capability and reaction. cleansing it out would properly be costly, because it often demands disassembling the engine (or not less than, removing the valve covers and oil pan). Now, with that stated, any motor vehicle, if appropriate maintained, will final an extremely long term. There are Sixties-70s Dodges that have over a million million miles on them with out plenty as a rebuild, or perhaps a pair over 2 million. comparable is going for Volvos. All they have finished are everyday music-ups, valve variations, oil variations.
- Q:coolant coming out around a tube that supplies the heater core (told its the water pump just don't see how)
- it could be a bad water pump or a hose split at the connection or a loose clamp on the hose
- Q:can bad water pump make car overheat?
- Yes because it what allows the engine coolant to flow to keep the car on the right temperature.
- Q:I've got a 1997 Ford Probe, taken it to a couple different places; whenever I drive my vehicle, it tends to want to overheat. I don't drive it to the point where it does though, I know that could cause more damage! I've noticed that when I go out to my car in the morning, there's some coolant on the ground by the front passenger's tire. Before I drive it I fill it with coolant, as to try to keep it from overheating while driving.I've been told that it's the water pump leaking from 2 people but then the last person said there's no leakage. I'm wondering if it might be something else? Maybe a thermostat, a hose, maybe? How would I figure this out???
- Sounds like it's probably the water pump to me too. It's easy to tell though, just get it on a lift and take a look at the water pump. If it's leaking out of the weeping hole, it's toast. Don't power wash an engine unless you want to risk very expensive repairs from water being forced into places it's not supposed to be. Odds of the pump locking up and leaving you stranded before those bearings get VERY upset, start screaming and dumping fluid like there's a hole in the system is a hundred to one. You should be able to limp it to a shop just fine when it gets worse. Just be careful not to overheat and you'll be fine. (I did say 1 in a hundred, you're not super unlucky, are you?)
- Q:How do I tell the difference between a long and a short water pump? I have a Chevy 350 V8, a crate motor the same size is going in very soon. How do I tell which one I have so that I can get the correct brackets, accessories, etc.?
- till it truly is made formerly 1970 it incredibly is an prolonged pump. bypass to a various factors place. the fast pump suits tight against the timing cover. The long pump has approximately 3/4 inch between the bck of the pump and the timing cover.
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Electric Motor YL
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
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