High-voltage Current Limit Fuse for Engine Protection
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1. Product Description:
Fuse is a device that causes the melt to fuse with the heat generated when the current exceeds the specified value. Fuse is a current protector, which is based on the current exceeding the specified value for a period of time, so that the heat generated by its own melt, thereby causing the melt to melt. Fuse is widely used in high voltage power distribution systems and control systems and power equipment, as a short circuit and over current protection, is one of the most widely used protection devices.
2. Product Characteristic:
1) Good selectivity. On the lower level Fuse ,Fuse Rated current as long as it meets the current selection ratio of 1.6:1, superior Fuse Rated current is not less than lower the value of 1.6 times, is on the lower level can have selective cutting fault current of GB and IEC standard;；
2) The limiting performance is good, and the breaking capacity is high;
3) The relative size is small;
4) The price is cheaper.
3.Specification：
Model | Rated voltage KV | Rated current A | Rated breaking current KV |
XRNP1-10(50-1) | 12 | 0.5,1,2,3.15 | |
XPNP1-10(50-2) | 2；3.15 | 50 | |
XRNP1-35 | 40.5 | 0.5,1,2,3.15 |
4. Reference Picture:
- Q: I have a Windows XP Media Center Edition 2006 Gateway Desktop the problem is I was unplugging and plugging back in when i heard a pop. Now power wont come on did i maybe blow a fuse or the cord and if i did pop fuse is this something i can fix?
- Could be the psu fuse that pop if you have another psu swap it out with the one that is in the pc or plug the pc into another outlet
- Q: I had lab and I don't quite understand why I did what we did. We used an analog and digital VOM and used it to record the ohms and volts of various electrical components. I was wondering why when using the analog that different devices read completely different ohm readings. Take for example, our Buss fuse didn't even make the needle move, but the diode and the resistor made it go to infinite ohms. How do I figure out what they are supposed to read, and what to expect before going to lab. I couldn't find anything in my book or the lab manual. Also, I was wondering why a resistor would measure outside of its' tolerance range. Is this because it was faulty? Any help is appreciated.
- hmm - the fuse resistance was very low, the diode was infinite 'cos it didn't conduct - it would have done if you reversed the polarity ( turned it round!). This was an experiment - you do not ask what they are supposed to read, it's your job to find out by measuring.!!! That's Physics, not Criminology! The resistor could be out of tolerance, but so what? Just measure it's value as it is now.
- Q: I have a (optimus stereo amplifier mpa 250) Every time I turn it on the fuse blows, I have it connected with the right stuff so I am not over ridding it. I disconnected everything from the amp and it still blows the fuse every time I turn it on. Not sure if I miss connected something when I dis-wired it again. Please guide me with this issue, I've been threw Two fuse bags and can't afford to go threw more. Should I get it checked by a professional or what? Please help out someone. Thanks.
- That fuse collection is saving your amp. You've got a short circuit in it somewhere. Needs checking out. Take the cover off and look for burn marks in the mains-in part and on the circuit boards. You might have a burnt-out resister or capacitor somewhere or a badly screwed up transister especially in the output stage. Power transisters can get hot. They have heat sinks they get bolted to and heat paste to make a good junction so the heat gets transfered better, Check the wires all round for molten or burnt insulation. Sometimes it's just dust that builds up inside that causes the problem especially in vintage amps that may have running twenty years without a clean out. Sometimes it's insects that get burned to a cinder and form a carbon bridge between components. Carbon is a good conductor and then you get a short circuit. Make sure the plug is out of the wall socket and give the amp a brush out with a vacuum cleaner nozzle held close to the brush. A 1-2 inch house painting brush works fine.
- Q: i understand you need the battery to get a car started and the spark plugs, but what else is used in a car to get it to start? i ask cause when i try to turn it on sometimes it wont start right away, the battery is fine my sparks are good, but the car still has a hard time starting up.
- Basically everything under the hood is necessary to start the car. Air filter, oil, battery, ignitions, ECU, fuel, fuel injector, pistons, valves, crank case, crank shaft, spark plug, wires, etc. You would have to ask more specific question and describe your problem more specifically. Good Luck.
- Q: How to turn the idle down?
- Spark, gasoline, compression. verify for spark with an previous spark plug inserted into between the plug wires and the metallic area of the plug touching a metallic floor on the engine, see in case you may discover a spark while the engine is cranked. verify for gasoline, in case you haven't any longer have been given a gauge you may depress the schrader valve on the gasoline rail, it in lots of circumstances has a plastic cap over it and it feels like the valve stem on a tire. be careful as gasoline will spray out at 40PSI so conceal it with a rag. to ascertain for compression without a compression guage, crank the engine over it would sound even, as each and each cylinder comes up on its compression stroke the starter will decelerate somewhat. If a variety of of cylinders have low compression the sound would be choppy. If not one of the cylinders have compression, the sound would be secure without pulses. the eu is remarkable. once you turn the main to on does the verify engine mild come on? if no longer then the workstation won't be getting ability. different issues to ascertain are cam or crank sensors those administration ignition and injector timing.
- Q: I put new fans cooling and ac,, new fan relay. And new tempeture sensor and don't work my ac fan and cooling fan . I check the all fuses are in good condition .,only I have to change the auxiliary switch to see if that is the problem.,
- I can't imagine why anyone would replace all these components that are easily tested with a simple test light? For example, you can't be sure of fuses by looking at them. You have to use a test light. You need to start at one end of the flow and work to the other. Might be easiest to start at the radiator temp sensor. If you shunt that, the relay should kick the fan on. If not, then check power to the relay at the relay. And don't forget grounds. For example, power to the fan is not enough. It also much have a good ground connection wire. You can get a test light at a place like Harbor Freight for $1.
- Q: i did something really stupid and connected my car battery the opposite way it should be (positive clamp to negative terminal and negative clamp to positive terminal; a few sparks flew). i tried to start the car but nothing happened when i realized what i did wrong i put the battery in the right way and the car started fine. i heard that when you connect the battery the wrong way it reverses polarity or something like that and that the battery cannot be used and that it messes up the alternator too.so that raises a couple question1) do i need a new alternator?2) even though the battery starts the car is it no good?3) will the battery end up exploding or malfunctioning because of the reversed polarity?
- 1 if it still works don't replace it, if you still doubt it have it bench tested at an auto part store 2 have the battery load tested just to be sure it is still gonna hold a charge. 3 if it was gonna explode it would have done it when you first tried starting it. also you will want to watch out for the car acting funny because it could have messed the cars internal computer up. while its doubtful just be extra observant for a week or so for things like running rough and erratic gages among other things
- Q: I have a 2000 Grand Am GT (3.4l V6), and my power steering has been messing up. I have replaced my rack and pinion, and I have replaced the power steering pump, and it's still not working. I made sure there was no air in the res, when I put the new pump on, and it's still not steering right. The car has an electrical steering assist, and I was wondering, where would the fuse be for that, if there is one?
- If it won't steer to the right, you have a broken/loose rack and pinion steering mount or hold down bracket. Have someone turn the wheel as you watch from under the car and you should see it moving around.
- Q: I was just wondering what happens when an electrical component or circuit becomes 'shot' as we term it. Now I am studying engineering, and my field has delved slightly into electricity, so I understand electricity to a point. But anyone out their with a good understanding of electricity, what exactly goes wrong? Thanks.
- Many things can occur to make a piece of equipment malfunction (you may use the term shot, but others don't). Semiconductors can sometimes grow whiskers, tiny metal fingers that can cause shorts. Semiconductors subjected to thermal cycles can die due to cracks in the die, or leads breaking. You can have bad solder connections on PC boards or connectors that eventually fail. Connectors can wear out from repeated use, or the wires can break in cables. Poorly designed electronics can die early due to voltage or thermal stress, exceeding the ratings of the components. The most common failure mode is around connectors and cables. If I think of the failed electronic devices I have seen in the last 20 years, I can list a PC with a bad memory connector, a PC with a broken key on the keyboards, An electric heater not working on HI, with a faulty overload trip, A scanner with a bad cell. A CRT type TV where the screen brightness slowly faded till it was not usable. And that's about all, the rest are due to obsolescence. .
- Q: I have a 1992 ford f150 and it keeps blowing the fuse that controls the interior lights, the radio, the gauge lights, and the speedometer. Now don't say the speedometer hooks in with a cable because it doesn't. It's a clip of wires that plug into it. Anyway I have taken apart the entire dashboard and tested for grounds and everything is getting ground and I even found where it grounds on the body. Sometimes the fuse pops as soon as u put it in and sometimes it takes ten minutes. I looked at all the wires and nothing seems to be broken or chafed or crossed. It will pop even when the radio and gauge cluster is unplugged and I have wiring diagrams and the wires run through the light switch and even of that's unplugged the fuse pops. I am getting fed up with this thing. Been tryin to figure it out for an entire day and got nowhere. Help is very much appreciated
- My first thought would be that you don't have a high enough rated fuse plugged in. I know they're color-coded AND stamped with the amp ratingbut are you sure it's the right one? Have you gone up a size to see if that helps? If you have a short, going from a 10- to 15-amp fuse, for instance, won't really run the risk of damage—it'll still blow. If you're confident about the rating or going up a notch doesn't help, you might have to disconnect everything on that circuit and plug the components in one-at-a-time until you find what blows the fuse. Once you have a suspect, pop in a new fuse and plug in just that one thing. If it blows again with nothing else on, you know where your problem is. Good luck!
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High-voltage Current Limit Fuse for Engine Protection
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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OKorder Financial Service
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