High-voltage Current Limit Fuse for Engine Protection
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1. Product Description:
Fuse is a device that causes the melt to fuse with the heat generated when the current exceeds the specified value. Fuse is a current protector, which is based on the current exceeding the specified value for a period of time, so that the heat generated by its own melt, thereby causing the melt to melt. Fuse is widely used in high voltage power distribution systems and control systems and power equipment, as a short circuit and over current protection, is one of the most widely used protection devices.
2. Product Characteristic:
1) Good selectivity. On the lower level Fuse ,Fuse Rated current as long as it meets the current selection ratio of 1.6:1, superior Fuse Rated current is not less than lower the value of 1.6 times, is on the lower level can have selective cutting fault current of GB and IEC standard;；
2) The limiting performance is good, and the breaking capacity is high;
3) The relative size is small;
4) The price is cheaper.
3.Specification：
Model | Rated voltage KV | Rated current A | Rated breaking current KV |
XRNP1-10(50-1) | 12 | 0.5,1,2,3.15 | |
XPNP1-10(50-2) | 2；3.15 | 50 | |
XRNP1-35 | 40.5 | 0.5,1,2,3.15 |
4. Reference Picture:
- Q: explain
- there is a thin piece of metal inside, too much current makes the metal get hot and breaksaving the system
- Q: i just don't know where to find this information!! I can't find it in my notes or in my teachers notes!!!
- Components required: Polymerase Enzyme - This is the actual molecule that forms a secondary DNA strand by fusing complimentary nucleotides to a phosphate backbone Polymerase Enzyme Buffer - Keeps the mix stable Magnesium: Improves replication efficiencies dNTPs: The nucleotides A,T,C G - molecules required to form the secondary strand Primers - one complimentary to the upper DNA strand and another to the lower strand - these are short oligonucleotide molecules complimentary to the start end of the sequence you wish to replicate. It acts as an anchor from which replication starts. Water - to bulk up the reaction to the required volume.
- Q: I recently started using a component cable to hook up my slim Playstation 2 to the TV and noticed that if I clicked the pull cord to change the setting on the ceiling fan the picture on the TV would go black for a split second.This does not happen with a regular AV cable.What would cause this?
- What you describe is unusual, but not unheard of. It's called EMI (ElectroMagnetic Interference), or alternatively, depending on the frequency involved, RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). First, if your ceiling fan had a short circuit, it would blow the fuse or circuit breaker (if not, you do have real trouble), but, regardless, it would not operate. So your fan does NOT have a short circuit, and you are not about to burn down your house - relax. See here for all the interesting details about the sorts of things, man-made and natural, that can cause weird things to happen with electricity:
- Q: Even when my A/C is completely turned off in the car, the A/C compressor continues to run. It freezes my evaporator coil to where air will not even blow through my vents. Even the techs at the Mitsubishi dealership are scratching their heads. The only way I can shut it down is to pull the 10 amp fuse under the hood, that is for the A/C. Someone please help me!
- did they replace the relay? if not you might want to think about replacing the compressor.
- Q: I found a 2x12 Line Six Spider III amp for sale, the vendor claims that it can be fixed by installing fuses. Does this mean that the current fuses are blown, or that it never came with fuses? In the former case, how would I be able to tell if the fuses are blown, or if it only needs new fuses and there's not some other underlying issue?
- Ripley, the Line 6 tube amplifiers can have both externally-accessible and internal fuses. A fuse can blow from a voltage spike, or from malfunctioning internal components; it is there to protect circuitry from further damage. Merely replacing a fuse without understanding the underlying causes for failure is just a temporary solution, which at best may only delay the need for further repairs or replacements. If you are really interested in the amplifier, see if the seller will let you take it to a dealer for evaluation. For a modest cost, you will get the complete answer, and maybe save yourself some heartache. Best regards, Dana
- Q: How to turn the idle down?
- fuse panels: 2 one under the dash above the driver's side kick panel and there's another under the hood, between the battery and the windshield. neither will let you adjust idle nor are there any fuses inside that will affect the idle. How to turn the idle down? Now that depends on why the idle is high. BUT, there is a screw on the throttle you can turn which is the ONLY official way of adjusting the idle. The idle adjustment screw ON THESE TRUCKS is known for having the o-ring harden which then allows engine vibrations to cause the screw to vibrate and back out which in turn will cause the idle to increase. Pull the screw out, install new o-ring, then adjust your idle back where it should be. Now wasn't that easier than the 2 page reply above me?
- Q: 01.Transformer 02.Rectifier03.Voltageeregulatorr 04.Filter**BASICCOMPONENTSS ONLY (NOT MORE THAN 15)
- you opt for a voltage regulator, amperage concerns much less subsequently. I make uncomplicated circuits and for all people I upload a voltage regulator. considering which you're working at a extra physically powerful voltage, you're above my sort (i take advantage of 6v and below). in spite of the incontrovertible fact that, maximum high quality voltage regulators comprise geared up in cutting-edge and voltage secure practices. A voltage regulator additionally will modify the present to a particular output. verify the link below, 5 amps max (thats solid on your case). The voltage is likewise in the skill, dont be perplexed by way of the information sheet. that's unquestionably fairly user-friendly. You DO choose a multi-meter to purpose the outputs in basic terms incase. yet that would desire to do it for you guy. i'm unfamiliar with the kind of regulator I appropriate in spite of the incontrovertible fact that it is going to tolerate warmth effective judging by way of its layout and schematics, not a low priced little 1cm x1cm element. this might set you back approximately 5-12 greenbacks. based the place you purchase it, choose a soldering iron and additionally the multi meter. something with DC, i like to characteristic a diode for a circuit, stops cutting-edge/voltage from going the incorrect way. Your capacity supply might have it regular although. Edit: in spite of if that's RATED for 10 amps, it does not advise that it is going to likely be 10 amps, relies upon on the draw. Thats all it may produce. Odds are you have a low priced duel factor fuse in there. it is going to hold a solid 12 amps for 15-20 min. Volts will burn out circuits quicker than amps (yours is possibly rated for 600v), so verify that score first. As an electrician, we continuously verify volts first. OCPD (overcurrent secure practices gadget) will cease any injury. You DO choose a regulator although, to guard your amp. Edit back: Jumbilia kinda reaffirmed it. Love electric engineers!
- Q: During the battle of Gettysburg, the gunfire was so intense that several bullets collided in mid-air and fused together. Assume a 4.91 g Union musket ball was moving to the right at a speed of 248 m/s, 20.3° above the horizontal, and that a 2.96 g Confederate ball was moving to the left at a speed of 282 m/s, 16.0° above the horizontal. Immediately after they fuse together, what is their velocity?
- For this problem, you'll have to use conservation of momentum in both x and y direction. For x direction - m1v1 (x) +m2v2(x) (m1+m2) V(x) 4.91*248*cos(20.3) -2.96*282*cos(16) (4.91+2.96)*V(x) solve for V(x) here. V(x) would be the x component of the vector (as asked in the question format). Similarly conserve momentum in y direction, and solve the problem.
- Q: . since then my battery won't hold a charge overnight . the battery's fine, altenator's fine , and starter are fine . personally I was told it could be a fuse or something electrical ?? It run's fine once it's jumped and hold's the charge during the day while i'm using it but something is drawing it over night any suggestion's please ??
- Sounds like you've got what they call a parasitic draw. That means there's some component on the car that's continuing to draw power from the battery while the key is off. I can safely say its not a fuse because when a fuse blows it stops whatever current draw made it blow. On an Explorer first thing I'd check is your ABS pump. To check it shut the engine down then listen for a hum just below the master cylinder in the unit mounted on the frame. It'll be the one that has several brake lines coming from the back end of it.
- Q: Any schematics would be very helpful, or an exact fuse location. I know it should be in the panel, but I do not have an owners manual. No power is getting to the fuel pump, but is getting to the sending unit. Thanks fo your help.
- It is in the fuse box by the drivers left foot. you have to pull the fuse panel off and then the panel that it attaches to. In my car it was the black relay in the front of the fuse box. It isn't marked on the inside of the fuse panel.
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High-voltage Current Limit Fuse for Engine Protection
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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