JDM15A Preset Digital Display Counter
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| Model & explanation |
| Main technological data |
1.Working voltage:AC 220V 110V 24V 50Hz DC24V,permit voltage fluctuating range(85%-110%)U. |
| Wiring diagram |
| Outline dimension & installation size diagram |
- Q: I have a 96 Camry and it died on me Friday sputtered out when I started it the rmp's shot up then went down then I put it in drive and then died I put new battery on, new starter, alternator is good and new ignition switch and when I turn the key all that comes on is the lights and radio and when I turn the key it doesnt sound like its trying to start just nothing no click click click
- Ensure that your starter is getting power if it is not check that you installed it correctly. most common ones come with three wires a ground, power and ignition. If it is not getting power when you turn the ignition then check the starter fuse. Another way is to check the starter directly, you can use a screwdriver or wire to connect the power and ignition wires to spin the starter be careful not to make contact with the ground. If it spins then you have another problem, however if it does not spin then you problem is the starter itself, an electrical connection, fuse, or electrical component related to the starter. Note that even something as simple as a gear selector for an automatic or the clutch pedal for a manual can cause this problem. for automatics they will only start in P or N. for manual the clutch must be fully pressed. My guess is you are having starter related issues because any other mechanical problem would at least let your starter spin even it the engine does not start. Do you have any more useful information?
- Q: I have a 1988 Jeep Comanche Sportruck and all of the gas, speed, etc gauges are not working. The lights that lit up the gauges used to work before I recharged my battery, since the jeep was left sitting for a couple months. But ever since I had the truck none of the speed, gas, and all the rest of the gauges have been reading/ working anything at all. What could the problem be and how could I fix this myself before having to go to a repair shop? Thank you for your help I've had this problem for so long and it's just time for me to fix this.
- Check fuses, if not a fuse, replace the dashboard gauge circuit board. DISCUSSION: Check the simplest and cheapest things first (fuses). If it is not a fuse problem, the easiest (and possibly the cheapest) step is to replace the dashboard gauges with parts from a junk yard. You might have blown the voltage regulator on the dash board (not the voltage regulator associated with the alternator). The difficulty of getting out the old dashboard gauges, and replacing a single component is slightly more than the difficulty of getting out the old dashboard gauges and replacing the who dashboard gauge circuit board, gauges and all. You might have also blown some gauges, so even if you fix one component, you might have to go back in to fix more. It is better to recharge the battery when it is disconnected from the car (to avoid the possibility of blowing out sensitive electronics such as dash boards).
- Q: I know it's loose because if I wiggle it the amp turns off. how can I properly adjust this without injurying myself or ruining frying my amp. do I really have to remove the fuse or since it's only the ground can I just untighten the screw on the cap and then slide the wire back in and tighten it back on the ground? thanks.
- Even with power disconnected, the capacitor is still charged and a short may damage it and/or other components. Here's the safe and proper procedure: 1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal (to protect the vehicle electrical system). 2) Remove the main amp fuse. 3) Connect a 1Kohm, 2 watt resistor across the capacitor terminals to discharge it. 4) Verify with a 12V test light or multimeter that the capacitor is discharged. 5) Repair the connection. 6) Insert the resistor in the circuit in place of the main fuse and reconnect battery negative (to recharge the capacitor). 7) When the capacitor is fully charged, remove the resistor and replace it with the main fuse.
- Q: I have this hot tub that froze and busted a lot of the lines going to the jets. I replaced all these and turned the power back on with one of the gates still in the closed position. Not usre if I damaged the pump or what but I can't get it to do anything but blow fuses. The readout says it's overheating. I took the motor cover off and spinned the porpelers and they turned good. Also the heat senor has melted out of the inline water heater and was wondering if these are replaceable. THis unit has two pumps and it is a fourwinds model 700 maverickThanks for any help
- I think Four Winds use balboa spa equipment. The sensors are either sold as a combo with the Temp sensor and hi limit or separately. Makes sure the power is off when you change them. The pump would not get damaged from a closed gate valve. To trace the GFCI tripping or blowing fuses. start by unplugging each of the pumps/components until you find the one that is causing the trouble. I do bet f you replace the high limit sensor your fuse blowing will stop. Whew! there's a lot of to tell you. Feel free to call us toll free and I can work it through with you on the phone Sunday afternoon. 1-888-atkippy. Your using the SC-30 fuses right? OH will go away as soon as you replace the sensor. Off the top of my head I would say the senor will cost 32-40 dollars. The blown fuses are coming from too much amp draw. This has got me very curious. Do inspect all your wires thoroughly to make sure there are no exposed wires and also do look at your fuse holder for burnt marks. I am betting you might have a value 2000 system and the fuse holder is charred. A faulty wiring condition exsists so please use extreme caution.
- Q: After discovering the reason why my car battery kept dieing, a massive draw on my car battery coming from my IOD (Ignition off Draw) fuse, i was able to start my car reliably once again! However, without this fuse, my turn signals will not work. Is there an easy way to get my turn signals working without having to take out and put back the fuse every time i want to start my car???
- First I gotta ask this. No offense to you since I don't know you nor do I kow your technical skills. When you are measuring this draw, do you have your meter connected in SERIES with the negative side with it set to Amps setting? Also, are you allowing the vehicle to power down, most cars will hold a certain amperage draw for a few minutes, up to 10-20 minutes which is normal. Are you allowing for this draw not chasing a ghost? FOR INSTANCE, GM vehicle with Onstar, they want you to wait 20 minutes for Onstar to power down or Go To Sleep so to speak. When you track down the source by removing the fuse, you have to actually go find the source fix it. Not leave the fuse out. This is where factory manuals come in handy to have. That way you can see what all that fuse feeds so you can go to that component unplug it directly see if your draw goes away with the fuse back installed.
- Q: I have the right fuse the cord is ok the capacitors appear to be ok I don't see anything that stands out to let me know where the problem is. I change the fuse and as soon as I plug it in it blows.
- This answer isn't going to be very helpful, but it is the best one I can give without being there in person to snoop, meter and prod things a bit. You likely have some component in the power supply section that has gone out of tolerance by shorting quietly. This occurs when a resistance drops enough to blow fuses rapidly, but the very fact that it blows fuses rapidly keeps it from ever damaging anything to the point of finding the problem with a visual inspection. My best guess from here is that this model VCR / DVD has quiescent state power so that it can be used with a remote control at all times. That leads me to believe that the problem itself would be in either the particular section of the power supply that provides this power or in the sections dealing with the remote sensor and any micro controller that interprets and activates those commands. There is one fairly simple possibility you might have overlooked. Make sure that no connectors or bare wires are against the case that you can see. Also check for minor discolorations of the boards due to heating. If you aren't a qualified tech or a talented hobbyist with tools available such as a multimeter, this will be very difficult for you to track and repair yourself I'm afraid. And, as always, it isn't safe to work around equipment you're not thoroughly familiar with, even disconnected. Best advice is take it in for repairs or replace it. Sorry I can't be of more help.
- Q: GE microwave oven blows its main time delay inline fuse everytime i put new one in
- When does the fuse blow? A soon as you plug it in to the wall outlet, or when you press the Start button, or when you open the door, or ? If as soon as you plug it in or when you open the door, it's probably one of the door interlock switches. There are at least two door interlock switches (often three), one of which is called the interlock monitor that shorts out the main lines and blows the fuse in the event the other door interlock switch fails in the closed state. You would need to find the faulty switch and replace it, usually not a difficult task, but a task only for those who know basic electrical circuitry troubleshooting and repair. If the fuse blows upon pressing the Start button, the fault is one of the HV components (magnetron, transformer, capacitor, diode) causing a short circuit. It could be any one of them, and narrowing it down to the actual fault also requires some basic knowledge and experience with HV circuits, as well as the proper test equipment. In any case, if you've never done this sort of thing before, best to either have the appliance serviced by a professional or round-file it and buy a new one.
- Q: I don't want any theories or speculations. I want a real documented electronic device. Oh and no ancient astronaut theories either.
- Baghdad potato it was used for a light bulb
- Q: I have a 1992 ford f150 and it keeps blowing the fuse that controls the interior lights, the radio, the gauge lights, and the speedometer. Now don't say the speedometer hooks in with a cable because it doesn't. It's a clip of wires that plug into it. Anyway I have taken apart the entire dashboard and tested for grounds and everything is getting ground and I even found where it grounds on the body. Sometimes the fuse pops as soon as u put it in and sometimes it takes ten minutes. I looked at all the wires and nothing seems to be broken or chafed or crossed. It will pop even when the radio and gauge cluster is unplugged and I have wiring diagrams and the wires run through the light switch and even of that's unplugged the fuse pops. I am getting fed up with this thing. Been tryin to figure it out for an entire day and got nowhere. Help is very much appreciated
- My first thought would be that you don't have a high enough rated fuse plugged in. I know they're color-coded AND stamped with the amp ratingbut are you sure it's the right one? Have you gone up a size to see if that helps? If you have a short, going from a 10- to 15-amp fuse, for instance, won't really run the risk of damage—it'll still blow. If you're confident about the rating or going up a notch doesn't help, you might have to disconnect everything on that circuit and plug the components in one-at-a-time until you find what blows the fuse. Once you have a suspect, pop in a new fuse and plug in just that one thing. If it blows again with nothing else on, you know where your problem is. Good luck!
- Q: I have a 2000 volkswagen new beetle w/ 2.0 liter engine. Earlier today a guy jumped me off and I noticed that he had put the jumper cables on wrong! And immediatly yelled for him to take them off!when my stepdad jumped me off I noticed I could no longer read my speed or gas gauge! So is it more likely a fuse that was blown or the instrument cluster? All info is greatly appreciated thank you !
- Hey Jasmin, Well, I think you must've hit the wrong button 'cause your question got posted in the Jeep section not the VW section. But hey, no worries. Most modern cars have a protection circuit that will set off a fuse or some other device to prevent serious damage to the engine computers (and other components) if someone gets their positives mixed up with their negatives when jumping the battery. I would suggest you bring it in to either a highly regarded independent shop specializing in European autos (usually BMW, VW, Mercedes and Volvo) or to the dealership. Depending on the car, you may have no choice but to bring it to the dealership if there is some type of special factory software that needs to be used to repair it. I would check in with an independent shop first tell 'em what happened and what's going wrong and they should be able to send you in the right direction (their shop or the dealership). Just be aware this might cost you some large coin to fix just be ready for that.
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JDM15A Preset Digital Display Counter
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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