TND series High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer

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Principle & Characteristics

It adopt linear integrated circuit to form the control system, drive the contact voltage regulator to regulate automatically by controlling the servo motor, it is provided with delay、over-voltage、under-voltage and over-current protection function which ensure the voltage stabilizer can supply safely; It has the advantage of high fficiency、same input and output voltage waveform, stable output voltage, work continuously and so on.

Scope of Application

It is available in the electric equipments and facilities in housing、factory、school、shop、office、precision instrument for scientific experiment. And also is suitable for office equipment、test instrument、communication system、industrial equipment、armarium、domestic electric appliance and so on.

Main Advantage

Excellent output voltage waveform、stable regulating process、no lost electricity phenomenon;
High accuracy of output voltage, generally it is fixed in 220±3% when leave the factory, wide input voltage range、strong load adaptability; with satisfiable load property. It has(under-voltage)、over-voltage and over-current protection function; It can cutoff the power supply automatically to ensure the safety of the consumer when the output voltage is over-high or the input is over-current; It adopted high breaking capacity mini circuit breaker with the over-current protection function when it is over load or short-circuit; It use high property carbon brush which prolong the service life of the voltage stabilizer.

Main Technical Parameter

Overall Size & Weight(For reference only)

Note:property of this product is similar with the svc type product.

Q:I had this LCD TV for about 2 years and suddenly it stop working, will not turn on and has no power. It made some static noise then it just stop working. The rest of my entertainment system (audio receiver, speakers, subwoofer, radio) still works, powers on in the same electrical outlet with a power surge protector.: I think you blew a fuse on the main power supply.these units are pretty much low voltage and high current systems, and they shouldn't have problems with shorted components.

Q:I have an 2006 Ford Fusion SE. The vehicle is experiencing a parasitic draw of about 110mA. I've found that the draw is coming from fuse 19 in the underhood fuse panel. This circuit is one of the 12V Always Hot circuits that powers components controlled by the BCM, or as Ford calls it, the Smart Junction Box. I have already determined that it is not the Smart Junction Box, as well as a few other components powered by that circuit. I've read on another post that it was a navigation system problem. The vehicle is not equipped with any such equipment. I've also verified that neither an underhood light nor the trunk light are staying on. There aren't any TSBs regarding such an issue. I've also checked 2005 2007 with no luck. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what advice might you have for me as a technician?: Better check with mechanic for electric supplies in your car from batter to starter and alternater. If after long drive the engine wont start again, probably its because the starter. Also check for the fly wheel. Service the starter and chenge the brushes inside it, aslo check the solanide switch if its working fine or not, if not, simply replace it. Your car is now 7 years old, so it will give such problems, so first go to some good garage in your area and ask the mechanic to inspect the car throughly. Best of luck. :)

Q:99 jetta was working fine till one day it didnt startit didnt crank or many any sounds when i go to start it i also noticed before i did this that my key remote was not locking or unlocking my doors, also the controls on the door to lock and unlcock didnt work either everything lights up headlights , radio. but it wont start,, i had it jumped and nothing happend. mechanic tested the battery and said the battery is fine. and he doesnt know wat happend.any help ?: if your car is a mk4 body style, check the drivers door to see if the red light is blinking. if it is, the factory alarm is acting up. this alarm has a starter kill built into it. you have to turn off the alarm. try the keyhole in the vw symbol on the trunk. if the light doesnt blink at all, you have a blown interior light fuse. i think its fuse number 14. fix the alarm problem, and it will take care of the no start.

Q:Hi I have a LG motion from Metro PCS. A fuse popped when I had my phone plugged into the charger. It seems to be loading slower, but still turns on. Is their a sure fire way to tell if their has been any electrical damage? thanks.: Damage from a blown fuse would make the phone not work at all - phones are computers, and when a part in a computer gets burned out, it just kills the whole thing (or a whole major component, like the screen, or sound, etc.). The fact that it's slower is just coincidence, and may only be you imagining things because you're worried.

Q:i want use fuse 1A in my power supply circuit.i have never used a fuse before.so can anyone tell me how to use it and how should i place it in the circuit?: Fusing and disconnecting means, should always be placed on the UNGROUNDED CONDUCTORS. I.e. any circuit that will operate at a significant voltage above or below ground. You do not fuse your grounded current-carrying conductors (aka neutrals), because these are usually connected to ground at the source, in some form or another. If your circuit is completely ungrounded, as in, all live wires float either above or below ground, with no exact connection to ground, you fuse all current-carrying conductors, treating them all as live wires. For a single phase transformer, you only need to fuse it on one side. Because any fault current will be transferred winding-to-winding directly. For other configurations of transformers, where the topology doesn't guarantee that it faults occur in a winding-to-winding manner, you may need to fuse it on both the primary and the secondary. It is recommended that you use a TOUCH-SAFE fuseholder, to store the fuse. You can directly connect the wires to the fuse holder, and then you can pop the fuse in it, when you are ready to power the circuit on. Do not disconnect any fuses under a current-carrying load. Make sure you shut it off at a device rated for disconnecting means, at that voltage.

Q:Hey i just bought a van for travling and i was wondering what can i run off a 12 volt power point?? kettle ' fan ect.: you should be able to run anything that does not exceed the amperage rating of the fuse for the power point this is usually about 10-15 amps, depending on the vehicle and what other components this fuse controls. If we consider that wattsvoltage x current that means that you should be fine with anything that is rated at under 120-180 watts or a combination of things (using a splitter) totaling less than that. Find the fuse that controls your power power point, and look at its amperage rating. I would assume that this fuse also controls other components as well (dome lights, etc.). Multiply its amperage by twleve and that is the MAXIMUM number of watts that can be used on that circuit. Since this represents the maximum number of amps possible on the circuit (and probably would result in a blown fuse) dont pick an appliance that matches the wattage number you calculate or you will overload the circuit and blow a fuse. Other than that you can use just about anything that meets these requirements.

Q:I have a 2002 Honda Civic that has a 12-Volt power outlet to plug in things such as my radar detector. I've used the same radar detector in my Civic for years without any problems. Recently, after using my radar detector, my fuse would burn out after using the outlet with the detector plugged in. It happens every time. I've already changed the fuse three times! And it's the correct amps too! Does anyone have any idea what's going on? Does my car have a more serious electrical problem I should know about? Any suggestions would be great.: Sounds to me like your radar detector, which you stated that you have used for years, has finally met it's maker, kicked-the-bucket, met it's timely demise, etc. Some component in it has shorted out or something, it now is attempting to draw too much current, and your electrical system is doing exactly what it is should, blowing it's fuse before burning itself out (and/or the radar detector, the whole car, etc.). I would say that it is time to start shopping for a new radar detector.

Q:car radio: Protection

Q:I drive a '97 Dodge Dakota. I've had it for 3yrs now. When I first got it from my G-pa,the headlights were acting up at that time which was like October/November '06. Got a new switch and that did the trick. Well apparently not because the same problem came right back. And when the switch was pulled out we flipped it over to see if there was a problem underneath it. Well you could clearly see one of the terminals was fried. So again we replaced the switch. Problem solved. WRONG. The same problem has come back to haunt me now,2yrs later. Now as before,the headlights would come on and as I drove they would flicker on and off,though if the high beams were switched on or held on,I would have no problems. Now they don't flicker on and off,I pull the switch and they don't even come on. I can hold in the high beam switch and they stay. There is the scoop. Any tips/help would be greatly appreciated.: Cheack ground wire

Q:i understand you need the battery to get a car started and the spark plugs, but what else is used in a car to get it to start? i ask cause when i try to turn it on sometimes it wont start right away, the battery is fine my sparks are good, but the car still has a hard time starting up.: Well three main things that make a motor run are fuel,air and spark. most cars since the eighties are computer controlled by many sensors constantly sending information to the computer telling it what to do by measuring fuel/air mixture,temp,etc and if a sensor is going bad a check engine light normally comes on. you have to have a diagnostic computer plugged into a terminal inside under your dash to read codes the bad sensor placed to troubleshoot the problem. now if no light has come on then it could just be a number of things to do with a tune-up,such as air filter,spark plugs and wires to them or fuel filter.and that's all i know to tell u

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