TND series High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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Principle & Characteristics |
It adopt linear integrated circuit to form the control system, drive the contact voltage regulator to regulate automatically by controlling the servo motor, it is provided with delay、over-voltage、under-voltage and over-current protection function which ensure the voltage stabilizer can supply safely; It has the advantage of high fficiency、same input and output voltage waveform, stable output voltage, work continuously and so on. |
Scope of Application |
It is available in the electric equipments and facilities in housing、factory、school、shop、office、precision instrument for scientific experiment. And also is suitable for office equipment、test instrument、communication system、industrial equipment、armarium、domestic electric appliance and so on. |
Main Advantage |
Excellent output voltage waveform、stable regulating process、no lost electricity phenomenon; |
Main Technical Parameter |
Overall Size & Weight(For reference only) |
Note:property of this product is similar with the svc type product. |
- Q:I have built a custom car and want to reuse the original fuse box under the dash. All I am running that require power is all my exterior lights, gauge lights, dome light, power windows, ignition switch, push start button, alternator, and distributor. I want my lights to have constant power to a switch just like factory but i want everything else to get power once the ignition is turned on, once again like a factory car. Any help is appreciated.
- Best bet for the BAT/alternator fuse is a fuse link or maxi-fuse and you will save a bunch of heavy guage wiring. Your ignition switch may have one or two ACC wires and usually only one RUN wire and one B+ (battery feed). Determine which wires you want to feed the fuse panel strips with and hook them up to the common fuse box junctions - then run you accessory and other component wiring from the appropriate fuses in the box. Use the BAT feed wire from the ignition switch for your lighting fuses. More often than not, your head lamp switch has an internal circuit breaker for the head lamps.
- Q:around ignition fuse. 98 dodge ram.
- did you change the solenoid ? it could be that or the ignition switch.
- Q:I bought a bargain DAB radio, when I got it home it ran fine, then seemed to keep cutting out, would run finerepeat.Something suggested the power might be to blame, looked at the fuse, the plug is labelled 3amp, but someone had put in a 13 amp fuse. Will the radio be damaged through running with the wrong fuse?As I say, I paid a very bargain price for this, so if I'm gonna get a year or so's use, I'm happy enough. Not expecting too much anyway, and quite lazy about taking it back. But if it's going to be a useless lump by this time tomorrowCheers for any advice
- The larger fuse alone will not cause damage, but together with another problem may. My guess. What ever is causing the radio to cut out, was also causing a 3 amp fuse to blow. That's why the previous moron I mean owner replaced it with a higher value. I would be concerned that something is overheatiing and shutting the unit down. It's only a mater of time before it doesn't come back on after cutting out.
- Q:i have replaced this fuse 10x in one day. keeps blowing. it controls the pw mirrors,pw,pwr locks,heated seats, and i think the dashboard lights and radio illumination. they are also not working. does anyone out there know what the prob could be. im hopoing its something simple and i can avoid going to an auto electirc shop and get taken for diagnostics and labor. your help is greatly needed and appreciated. thanks
- You have a short somewhere between the head light switch and the balast for the head lamps. One way to diagnose this cheaply is to start with a bunch of fuses and start unplugging everything one at a time from the headlights back to the switch and see if it still blows a fuse. Whenever you unplug a connector and it does not blow a fuse, the short will be between the last two things you unplugged. I hope this helps.
- Q:Honda accord LX 2003 ac and wiper refuse to work.
- Check the fuse relay that's related to those circuits.If they are not blown,its either a problem in the wiring harness going to the wiper switch or ac clutch switch ac compressor switch,the switch itself like the multifunction switch that controls the wiper,,or its something wrong with the actual components that the fuse and relay powers such as the wiper motor or ac compressor.If the ac wiper button are on the same control panel,the panel itself is probably faulty if fuses are ok
- Q:Blown Kenwood KDC-P5028 CD Reciever?I have a Kenwood KDC-MP5028 CD player. I was installing the system and everything was going fine. The wiring harness has the yellow cable missing which I think the the 12v. I attatched a wire and hooked it all up and everything was working fine. When I pushed the unit into the dash the wire cameout and it touched the black ground wire. I heard a pop and noticed that the unit was smoking a little bit. Now my unit will not power back on. The fuse is still good so thats not the problem. The radio fuse is also intact. Does anyone know what the problem is? Is there an internal fuse I dont know about? Your help wil be much appreciated. Im also trying to avoid taking it to a repair shop because I know they are going to charge me an arm and a leg. Thanks, Johnnie
- rutrn to where you bought it tell them its defective
- Q:Any schematics would be very helpful, or an exact fuse location. I know it should be in the panel, but I do not have an owners manual. No power is getting to the fuel pump, but is getting to the sending unit. Thanks fo your help.
- It is in the fuse box by the drivers left foot. you have to pull the fuse panel off and then the panel that it attaches to. In my car it was the black relay in the front of the fuse box. It isn't marked on the inside of the fuse panel.
- Q:I recently bought an old 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and it runs ok, except it won't start nearly every morning. My mechanic told me the battery's most likely going. The only reason I'm thinking it's something else is because every morning when I go to start the car, there's a loud, intermittent noise coming from the fuse box; it's like a loud grinding/electrical noise that only lasts about a second at a time, but continually comes back almost on perfect rhythm (think of your directional, same sort of rhythm). Sometimes the lights will flash on and off with the noise too. Could this be something other than a bad battery? Or is it possible that these symptoms suggest a more electrical problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!
- From your description, I understand that indeed there is an electrical problem. I would start with what is called wiggle test. While engine is running, try gently to wiggle the fuse box back and forward. Should you find any abnormalities in engine running or engine stalls or anything that shouldn't be doing out of the ordinary, you can say that the fuse box is your problem. If all good, secondly I would remove the fuse box and do a pin test on all fuse box connectors from under the box (wiring harness that plugs into fuse box). This will tell you if any male connector is loose. Should you have any loose connectors, just close them up a tiny bid so that they wont move. Before you put the box back, apply some electrical stabilant to ensure proper conductivity on all electrical components. This procedure could be time consuming but is well worth it to try. Finally, before you do all these actions please, have someone doing an AVR test to ensure your battery is good and entire charging/starting system is normal. Hope this will help you.
- Q:I have 1999 Honda Accord. Recently, the buttons on the Climate control panel stopped working. The round knobs controlling air flow into the car and the temperature are fine. It is just that I cannot control where air gets directed via those buttons. At the same time, the clock is not illuminated (the clock is fine). Would like to find out if there is a fuse or an electrical component controlling both (control panel and the clock light) has gone bad? if yes, where can I find it? thanksrajesh
- Hey Rajesh, Well sorry that your climate control is not responding the way it should. I know most of us are beginning to realize the need for our heaters and stuff now that it is getting a little colder. I'm not too sure if the climate controls are tied in with the dash panel illumination Rajesh. They usually aren't, but for the sake of the symptoms, we wont rule it out ok? Most cars, including yours, have the heater doors and valves that direct the climate controlled airflow to go where the panel directs them is controlled by vacuum. It's designed that way because of expense. Vacuum servo devices are so much cheaper than electric servo motors and in some designs can be more reliable too. The round knobs you have are cable driven while the buttons redirect the vacuum which is created from the engine and stored in a reservoir. Lots of times what happens is in the engine compartment the hoses get brittle from all the heat. They will then crack and break. this will disable your heater control if the vacuun line to the reservoir is cracked. If that is not it then yo can check the fuses under the drivers dash by your left leg
- Q:Hi, I've had a lot of problems with my bike and I know I need a new one. Don't need to be told that. I own a 2005 R50x 50cc scooter. On my way home, the lights went off and the 'dash' went off including the rpm gauge. The horn, starter and full beam still work though. The fuse is fine and it isn't the battery. If anyone has a clue please let me know and the location of the components that may be affected. FYI, all the electrical bits are in the front not under the seat. Many thanks
- make confident the two events are not basically coincedence. because of the fact the different adult adult males stated, with the ignition change off, there could desire to be no juice going to any of the lighting fixtures fixtures. With the change off, the only place wires would be energized is between the starter soleniod and the change. i'm doubting that's a shorted cord on the grounds that could in very almost all likelyhood blow the top-rated fuse. If the fuse did not go, you may fry the shorted cord and at perfect you have got a melted wiring harness or at worst a charred bike. i've got had shorted wires and that i'm speaking from journey on that count. If this subject happens returned, i could verify the ignition changeperchance squirt somewhat WD-40 down the keyhole.
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TND series High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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