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Q: I have a 99 mitsubishi eclipse, and recently the radio stoped working, along with the reading lamp that I have. I looked under the hood in the fuse box, and there was a fuse blown, but everytime I put a new one in, it would blow almost right away. What exactly is this caused from, and how can I get it fixed?: There's a fault with one of the components on the circuit or one of the power wires is grounding to earth (trapped wire/damaged sleeving etc). Identify exactly which items are covered by this fuse and switch all the items off. Change the fuse for a good one, and then switch each component on in turn to see which one causes the fuse to blow. A fairly common fault for aftermarket stereos is for a wire to get trapped between the mounting cage and the chassis of the stereo when it's being pushed into the dashboard, stripping the casing off the wire and causing it to ground to earth. Could also be listening to the stereo too loud (again aftermarket stereos are more likely to be affected) - the extra current to the stereo may cause it to pop the fuse.

Q: Any help greatly appreciated. So I drive a 2005 Chrysler 300. 3.5l v6. I have strange headlight and tail light issues. Mind you there are what I believe aftermarket LED halo style headlights in the front. Tail lights are from 300c hemiFirst of all my #8 fuse [15 amp] is repeatedly blowing for no appearant reason. A Working fuse gives me the fancy blue halos, orange lamps, 3 small LED's and my normal beams. As well as proper running tail lights for the back and a responsive light switch to turn them off and on. . When the fuse blows I'm left with no lights other than my normal beams up front. No tail lights. Yet when the fuse IS blown I press the break and all my tail lights come on [all reds, and yellow blinker lights both constant. Yellow lights don't blink] and a glitchy light switch. NOW aside from all of that. My bottom left fog light does not work. The bulb looks un damaged. Any help greatly appreciated: The fuse protects an individual circuit. The lights which work when the fuse is blown is on another fuse circuit. They could not work if they were on the same circuit as the #8 fuse. It sounds like you may have too many lights on the #8 circuit. If the lighting load is greater than 15 amps it will blow the fuse when you turn on enough lights to exceed the 15 amps. Disconnect a few of the lights to bring the load below the 15 amp limit, and see if it resolves the fuse problem. You could increase the fuse size to 20 amps, but this is not usually advisable as the fuse is sized to protect the circuit components. If its not a result of having too much lighting on the circuit, then I would look for a bare wire which may be contacting the car chassis. The battery is grounded to the car frame, so any power source which touches the chassis will result in a dead ground, which will cause the fuse to blow. I would suggest getting a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the left fog light. If you are getting power, then the problem is with the bulb or light fixture. If you are not getting power, then I'd look for a blown fuse or faulty switch.

Q: I have a 2005 Impala LS 3.8L engine with a stock alternator and a 100amp under-hood fuse. I don't know how many amps this alternator puts out. I will probably be getting a bigger fuse but I need to know what size too. I plan on getting 0 gauge power wire and a Hifonics ZRX2000.1D amp. The 15 L7's are 1,000watts RMS a piece so I will constantly be running 2,000watts at 1ohm. So if you could tell me what kind of alternator I need that will fit my car and how big of a fuse, I would greatly appreciate it. Any other advice is nice too! Thanks!: Actually they really are 2000 a piece depending on how you set the gain with a lot of watts to it. 100 amp fuse is awfully small for that system, you need to get up to 250 or 300 amps if you plan to run 1 ohm an another thing what ohm are the subs?? cause if they are 2 ohm subs then you're gonna need a amp for each sub.

Q: i have a 97 toyota camry and this fise keeps blowing in my car its is a 10A fuse and the fuse says 30 on it when it blows the car battery jus dies fast and over time like i will turn on the windhild wippers and the cd player will turn off i replaced the fuse 9 times and they all blown the last 1 i put in lasted for about 3 days but now they jus keep blwong what could be the problem please help me.: What fuse is it for? Check the line the fuse is for.

Q: ABS dash board lights comes on. break pedal funny feeling. Took it to the garage and all the did is take out the fuse and told me not to worry about it. And everyone that I've talked to says the same thing. I drive around with my son in this truck. What is ABS and why don't people want to fix it the right way. I don't mind spending the money. I also mantian my truck to what the book says.: Take it to a Chevrolet Dealership for service. You have an issue with your anti-lock brakes. Since these other shops just pulled a fuse, mark them off your list of ever returning for future services, they are not to be trusted.

Q: i have a samsung ln26b360c5d the picture quit working doesnt come on at all but if you push the power button it still does the sound it makes when coming on and the sound it makes when shutting off, i took the back off and there was a fuse blown the board says fm802s 250v/ t2. oah i want to replace the fuse but i dont know wich one to buy seeing as how i cant find any fuse that says that.: Any 2 amp 250 volt fuse that fits will work but chances are that some other problem caused the fuse to blow and the replacement will blow also. Good Luck

Q: I have a 2004 Dodge, Durango. It has the stock 6 disc stereo, DVD, Sirrus combo. One of the kids left the light on one night and we had to jump-start the car. Since then the CD player will not work. Everything else works just fine. It is like the CD player doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this happen? Does anyone know how to fix it? I know i could take it to the dealer and they could probably fix it for a marginal fee. I was trying to avoid that route if I could. I am mechanically inclined so if it can be fixed I could probably do it. If it is something that is actually broken, I guess I am SOL.: Several possibilities: Could be a blown fuse. Check your fusebox (in the cabin and maybe even under the hood). Sometimes fuses do joint duty. If your domelight stopped working, they may be connected. Could be that the jump damaged the cd player - yes, sorry, it can happen. Check for a reset button. It would be a tiny hole somewhere on the face of the unit that you would need to poke with the tip of a pen. There probably isn't one, but it might exist. Alternatively, if you can identify the fuse used for the cd player, pull it and then replace it. Just make sure if your unit is powered off that you don't need to enter a code to make it work again. From my experience, factory audio equipment has a short working life. Using cheap stuff is one way for manufacturers to save money. You may need to replace it. Might still be under warranty

Q: i.m doing my project and for that i need to collect the industry profile and i did my project in a fuse manufacturing company so i need fuse industry.can any one find and say me the address or in case if u have any details please mail to .in: there is no fuse industry - fuses are a very small piece of electronic components market

Q: i checked the fuses, i had similar problems when i tried to install a stereo deck myself. Also my srs lights are on and my window does not open.: time for another car friend. don't mess with this as it is old. face it jap cars don't last forever. u no n japan they don't rebuild anything? everything is replaced every 100,000 km which is 66000 miles. ur car isn't designed to last. that is why every jap car in a wreck is totalled. the jap car co's make more money selling u a new car. so but another jap car. I don't want to catch u riding n a real car, like a 57 chevy or 67 mustang. I will pop u n tha haid an take it from ya.

Q: I have an 2006 Ford Fusion SE. The vehicle is experiencing a parasitic draw of about 110mA. I've found that the draw is coming from fuse 19 in the underhood fuse panel. This circuit is one of the 12V Always Hot circuits that powers components controlled by the BCM, or as Ford calls it, the Smart Junction Box. I have already determined that it is not the Smart Junction Box, as well as a few other components powered by that circuit. I've read on another post that it was a navigation system problem. The vehicle is not equipped with any such equipment. I've also verified that neither an underhood light nor the trunk light are staying on. There aren't any TSBs regarding such an issue. I've also checked 2005 2007 with no luck. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what advice might you have for me as a technician?: Just a guess but check the ABS control module. If its not shutting down when the key is off it will drain the battery. With the key in the off position you should be able to hear it humming if its the problem. There's a relay that controls it but its inside the unit so the unit must be replaced if it gets hung up.

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