• Double Suction Agricultural Irrigation Water Pump System 1
  • Double Suction Agricultural Irrigation Water Pump System 2
  • Double Suction Agricultural Irrigation Water Pump System 3
Double Suction Agricultural Irrigation Water Pump

Double Suction Agricultural Irrigation Water Pump

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Double Suction Agricultural Irrigation Water Pump

 

Features of Double Suction Agricultural Irrigation Water Pump

Single Stage Double Suction Centrifugal Pump

Both the inlet and outlet are below the shaft axis of pump, so it doesn't need to disassemble pipes and motor for check or repair

Pump shaft seal can be mechanical seal and soft packing seal3) Pump can be directly driven by motor or by gas engine if necessary

 

Application of Double Suction Agricultural Irrigation Water Pump

Electric stations

Fire fighting

 Irrigation

Municipal

Industrial water supply system

 

Operating conditions of Double Suction Agricultural Irrigation Water Pump

Flow: 50-36,330m³/h

Head: 8-160m

Medium temperature: ≤105°C

Operation pressure: ≤25 bar

DN: 80-1,600mm


FAQ

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?

A: Yes, the WQ models.

Q: does anyone know how to remove the water pump on an 84 corvette its killing me
take pictures during the removel process so to put every thing back together in reverse first remove shroud covering radiator.empty anti freeze from radiator into a drain pan and put it up out or reach from animals this will kill them than remove tranny lines from the radiator only,,, than remove radiator hoses at the radiator and water pump than remove radiator... next take fan belts off by losining altinator and moving it to take pressure off belts than remove belts if you have a serpentine belt get a chilton manual to find how to release tension from belt and remove belt take pictures so to put belt back on in reverse remove fan and pully off the water pump than remove bolts from water pump take water pump off than clean off all of the old gasket clean area with razer blade or scrapper with out damaging the flange.put new gasket and put every thing back together do not use gasket sealer a dry gasket will do..
Q: my sump pump keeps filling with sewer water. i cant figure out why or where it could be coming from. and the smell is awful.
I'm guessing that instead of the ground water being pumped to outsde somewhere, it was installed into the sewer system. If a check valve wasn't installed or if it leaks by, and your sewer line is backing up, it will backfeed down the outlet pipe and into your pit. If you had a lot of water coming in from the ground, it would force the sewer water out of a drain somewhere, like a laundry drain, sink drain, shower drain, or toilet. If this is the case, get your sewer line to the main checked and have the sump pump installed properly.
Q: Pump pumping small is what happened?
Multi pass is self-priming pump, right? Check that the water inlet pipe is connected. If there is a little leakage, the lift will not be high. If the submersible pump, impeller pump or screw pump, they do not have irrigation. If it starts small and then flows, it may be that the water in the well is not rising so fast, that is to say, the water is poor. This happens, too. If it starts small, which may be the well did not hit the good position. Suggest a little more. Is it used in your house? Still have other uses?. For home use. A bucket of water is enough.
Q: I have a 2004 Toyota Sienna and it has 80k+ miles on it. I guess it is the drive belt that is making the noise and I decide to have it changed. I can have the timing belt changed too because it is due at 90k miles. The dealer guy told me that I should also have the water pump changed too because of 2 reasons:1. the new timing belt will cause pressure to the old water pump. If not changed, it will leak in weeks.2. it is cheaper to do it altogether.Without changing the water pump, it would cost about $300.All would cost $1000+.My friend who also has a Sienna that has more miles on it, told me that he did not have to change the water pump.Your advice about the water pump is?
When I change timing belts, I don't change water pumps. Since I do my own maintenance, I'm willing to spend another 4-5 hours tearing things apart to change the water pump if it subsequently fails. If I were paying a shop to do it, I'd have all the work done. Since the water pump is a moving part with bearing, its going to fail. Will it fail at 80k or 180k? Hard to tell. If you're willing to take the chance that it won't fail and are willing to pay the extra money to take it all apart again if it does, then don't change it. A better way to think of it might be in terms of how long you plan to own the vehicle. If you want to keep driving it another 100k miles, then I'd change it out now, if you plan on selling/trading it in in a couple more years, guess I'd be more inclined to skip it. Hope this helps.
Q: I want to know how to start up a water pump so i can move up to my camp.
There's a few different kinds of water pumps. If you're referring to a hand-pumped well water pump that doesn't work, then it's generally lost it's prime. Some well pumps are constructed so you pour a quart or so of water into the pump and stroke the handle up and down until the water rises in the well. Other kinds of well pumps you have to take the hand pump off and pour a bucket of water into the well hole. It just depends on what kind of water pump you have.
Q: I am having water shortage problems and wonder if there is more I can do to maintain the health of my pump motor , pressure switch , and diaphram tank , if I run one outlet in or out of house , it only takes another spigot being used or a toilet flush to cause the system to run dry .I then have to reprime pump to have water or pump will run dry until it overheats ,
The okorder /
Q: Power went out of my house and we just had it restored, though now the water is no longer running. We called the people who installed our pump and they told us they would need to dig up the well which is going to cost $1500. However i remember a time before where this happened and all we needed to was reset the switch. Do you think these ppl are trying to get me for my money? Does anyone know if there is a less expensive way?
Yes, they are trying to get your money. Check the breaker and see if it needs to be reset. If your pump is not submersible, you will need to prime it. Remove the gauge or one of the plugs and, with a funnel, fill it with water before you run it. This should be repeated until your pump is primed and filling up the tank. Make sure you have a faucet or two opened when you do this. No matter what, your well does not have to be dug up. It doesn't work like that. The power going out doesn't have anything to do with the water in the well or the piping going down to it. If all else fails, call a different well company to get some advice. Edit- If the pump is running ok, it should be primeable. It takes time to do this. If the pumps impeller was damaged by running dry, the pump may need a rebuild or replaced.
Q: I have a new water pump with its new gasket to be installed tomorrow. Do I still need to apply a gasket sealer (blue RTV silicone) on the gasket itself? If I do, do I need to apply it on both sides of the gasket? Thank you.
that completely depends on the year/make and model, and type of gasket that it uses.
Q: A rectangular tank that is 2 feet long, 3 feet wide and 6 feet deep is filled with a heavy liquid that weighs 80 pounds per cubic foot. How much work is done pumping all of the liquid out over the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping all of the liquid out of a spout 5 feet above the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping two-thirds of the liquid out over the top of the tank?How much work is done pumping two-thirds of the liquid out of a spout 5 feet above the top of the tank?I thought that math was hard enough and now they added physics..
Work is force x distance, which is conveniently pounds x feet. Since we are only interested in the height here (as that is the direction we are pumping), we only need to integrate along that path. The differential weight/force being pumped is the volume (LxWxH = 2 x 3 x dH) times the density (80) and the distance is the height that volume is pumped (6 - H). So W = integral( 6 * 80 * dH * (6-H)) from H=0 to 6 W = integral ((2880 - 480H) dH) = 2880H - 240*H^2 = 2880(6) - 240*(6)^2 = 8640 foot-pounds of work. If you are pumping from the spout, replace the 6-H with 11-H, and the answer becomes 23,040 foot-pounds, which makes sense since you have almost tripled the averge height you were lifting. For the 2/3, change the range of the integration to H = 2 - 6, since H = 0 - 2 represents the water at the bottom of the tank that will still be there later. This gives you answers of 3840 and 13,440 foot-pounds respectively, showing that the last couple of feet are the hardest to pump out (because they have the farthest to go...)
Q: I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!
We have owned Honda's for years, including three 90's Civics. We have had the timing belts changed by the dealer also - also the cheapest price - and they have always recommended changing the tensioner and the water pump while in there. The timing belt is such a critical piece of equipment that is should be changed on schedule. The new belts go much longer than the old belts. But it's only a hundred more at most to have the water pump replaced at the same time so make them do it. If you water pump goes out in another 20000 miles, the labor charge to get to it will be 400 or 500 bucks. Most dealerships will do the water pump for parts cost markup if they are also doing your timing belt. You can also negotiate your price with a dealership. Try it. If they won't budge, find a new dealer.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords