Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
1.Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation Description
The Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump is designed for Irrigation, The casting is axially split, which permits removal of the complete rotor whish moving either piping or motor. Pumps generating high heads have double volute to reduce radial forces. Replaceable wear ring protect the casting at the impeller running clearances. Flange drilled to ISO, DIN, BS or ANSI. The close double suction impeller gives practically zero axial forces. Each impeller is statically and dynamically balanced according to ISO 1940.The pumps have a reduced number of parts and extensive interchangeability, which leads to minimum levels of inventory for customers and faster parts delivery. Vertical installation is a standard option with the same upper and lower casing parts. It is mounted for a space-saving configuration or when apace is at a premium. Soft packing or mechanical seal, grease or oil lubricated bearing is optional. Oil lubrication is with constant level oiler.
2.Main Features of Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
•Attractive design
•High efficiency, steady performance
•Big capacity, medium pressure
•High concentricity of components
3.Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm IrrigationSpecification
Casing | Cast Iron, Ductile Cast Iron, Cast Steel, Stainless Steel or Duplex S.S |
Impeller | Cast Iron, Bronze, Duplex S.S, Stainless Steel |
Shaft | C-Steel, Cr-Steel, Stainless Steel |
Wearing Ring | Cast Iron, Brass, Stainless Steel |
Capacity/Q | Up to 25000m3/h, Up to 110000gpm |
Head/H | Up to 280m, Up to 800 feet |
Temperature/T | Up to 200degree |
Speed/n | 2900/1450/980/740/580 rpm 3500/1750/1180/890/710rpm |
4.Picture of Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q: Can I install a recirculating hot water pump to a boiler? Someone just told me that I have a boiler not a water heater, but I have to wait for minutes for the shower to heat up
- Yes
- Q: coolant coming out around a tube that supplies the heater core (told its the water pump just don't see how)
- it could be a bad water pump or a hose split at the connection or a loose clamp on the hose
- Q: When we turn our water on in the house it will run for a while and then shut off.. It has been coming back on after 5 0r 6 mins.it used to do this about once a week but now it does it every day we don't mess with any breakers because they don't get triped . We are on well and this well is about 7 yrs old anyone have an idea what could be the problem .. If any more info is needed I can reply..
- Would say the pressure switch is bad. You might try TURNING OFF THE POWER to the well. Use a voltage tester to make sure it is off. Use a finger nail file to file the contacts of the switch, make sure they are clean and smooth when you are through. Turn power on and watch operation of the switch, If you have a pressure gage at the switch the switch should make at about 30 psi and open at about 50 psi. If you have to replace switch be sure and add a pressure gage as it is very helpful in setting switch and troubleshooting system..
- Q: I have to replace the hot water recirculating pump in my house. It is made in Hungary and the Manufacturer's letters look almost Russian. The only words in English are the spec's (amp draw, voltage, etc.) This house was built in 1998 and the plumber's no longer in business. It looks like it just threads onto a quot;capbut I don't want to start using pipe wrenches and just mangle it (it's very difficult to get to also). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
- Typically, such pumps come as an assembly with flanges to match the existing pipe. Determine your pipe-size and purchase the entire system to that size. Your plumbing supply will be able to help you match all that. And the difference in cost between just the pump cartridge and the entire system is nominal. Get a good one, by the way. Grundfos and Bell Gosset are amongst the best, TACO comes in pretty well also. Unless you have isolation valves on either side of this pump, you will have to drain the system to do it properly. While you are in there, you have the opportunity to install isolation valves and other sorts of refinements for easing future servicing. Hope this helps.
- Q: What are the parameters of the pump price?
- The first point: brand, manufacturers are generally different, the price difference is relatively large, the brand effect and quality of this.The second point: motor model and matching pump model, the general power is greater, the higher the price.The third point: special requirements, such as: to achieve a special lift, or special flow, special materials, special maintenance period, the rate of special accidents. The price is higher than the usual model.Basically, these are the pumps that determine the price of the pump. In fact, the same manufacturer, the power difference is not too large, there is no special requirements, the price is basically the same, the reason manufacturers do not the same price, is a marketing strategy, in fact, the cost is the same.
- Q: i want to hook a pressure booster pump to a well pump so i can have some pressure out of the well, is this doable?thanks!
- That's an interesting question and it raises quite a few complicated hydro-engineering questions. If you used two pumps with the same output pressure, sequenced to switch on together, I do not believe you would increase the final output pressure over using just one pump. I'd think you'd need to have the first pump run to a pressure tank with a check valve and then use a booster pump to raise the pressure from that tank to the house meaning you'd need another pressure tank and check valve in the house. Have you looked at the air bladder diaphragm tanks that allow you to set the pressure by regulating the air pressure behind the bladder? This might be a better option than 2 pumps. Look at a company called Well-X-Trol.
- Q: Water pump
- 35 okorder
- Q: I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6 cyl while driving home the other day my check engine light came on ,then I noticed my battery was loosing its' charge ,then I noticed my temperature gauge rising very fast.I stoped to see what the problem was.The vehicle had over heated and the serpentine belt was partially off Iet it cool down then I put water in it and drove it home which was about a quarter of a mile.I noticed no problems with the fan hitting the water pump pully until I put the belt back on .My water pump pulley appears to be off line how do I fix this?
- your water pump bearing is probably worn out, unfortunately if this is the case replacing the water pump is the only option take the belt off again grab the fan if you can wiggle it forward and back its no good if its ok go to the belt tensioner, Its the next most likely culprit if it get out of line it will throw the whole thing out of whack good luck
- Q: I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.
- Im guessing you have the 3.4 liter engine. You will need to remove the pulley bolts first 10mm, then pull off the pulley and the belt. there should be a few 10mm bolts holding the water pump on, remove them and scrape off the old gasket with a scraper and then clean the rest up with some fine grit sandpaper. Don't scrub one area for too long because the surface is soft aluminum. you will need to spray some brake clean on a rag and clean up the surface so there is no coolant or dirt on it. Now put the new gasket on the new pump and put a thin layer of silicone on the side of the gasket that is going to mate with the engine block. Do not put silicone on both sides of the gasket. Make sure to note wich way you took the old pump out because it only goes in one way and torque down the bolts so they are snug, don't overtorque or you will strip the aluminum. Now you will need a half inch rachet to pull back the belt tensioner to be able to put the belt back on. There should be a picture of how the belt is routed somewhere under the hood. Don't forget to buy Dexcool (Red Antifreeze) Make sure you don't mix it with the green antifreeze. Good Luck
- Q: I had high-pitch noise coming from my engine; it was coming from the belt area. I change the belts but the noise is still happening. After doing some research, I noticed that the noise is coming from the Water pump bearings. I installed this water pump Last year and the warranty is expired on it. A friend told me that if a bearing goes bad on a Water pump, then I should flush the cooling system because it leaves metal shavings into the engine. Is this true? I already flushed my cooling system at the mechanic (he has a special machine) about 2 weeks ago. Is it necessary to do another flush because of bad Water Pump bearings?
- well they do go bad but not very offen.. and really no need to flush if your going to replace it .. nothing to worry over
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Double Suction Centrifugal Water Pump for Farm Irrigation
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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