Diaphragm Metering Pumps Diaphragm Pumps Canada
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Diaphragm Metering Pumps Diaphragm Pumps Canada
Features:
QBK Pneumatic Diaphragm Pumps also called Air Operated Double Diaphragm Pumps (AODD Pump) are rugged and durable self-priming, double diaphragm pumps, can handle any products that pours, from clean water to highly viscous, abrasive and chemically materials.
♦ Simple structure, easy to use and maintenance, less wearing parts. It can be working under liquid and running dry as well.
♦ Material: PP, Aluminum, Cast Iron, Stainless Steel. Diaphragm material: NBR, Viton, Teflon, FEP etc.
♦ Flow rate can be controlled from zero to max flow by increasing or decreasing air pressure.
Pneumatic Diaphragm Pump Advantages:
Idling ,Self-priming , Submerse capability.
Provide stall-free, ice-free zero leak operation.
Epoxy-coated air section for tough environmental conditions.
Low shear force , not easy to damage the material structure.
Bolt joint design provides even sealing pressure for optimal performance
Modular air valve,low pulsation operation,providing smooth and rapid changeover.
Diversity of material,no rotating parts,applicable to various erosive situations.
No electricity . It's safe and realiable while using in the flammable and explor place .
Can pump corrosive , volatile, flammable, poisonous fluids with particles and high viscosity.
Delivery lift and flow can pass the pneumatic valve open to realize the stepless adjustment
Specification:
Model | Diameter (mm) | Max Flow (L/min) | Suction (m) | Max Discharge Pressure (Bar) | Max Grain Dia (mm) | Max Air Consumption (L/min) |
QBK-8 | 8 | 16 | 5 | 6.9 | 1 | 300 |
QBK-10/15 | 10/15 | 20 | 5 | 6.9 | 1 | 300 |
QBK-25 | 25 | 100 | 5 | 6.9 | 2.5 | 600 |
QBK-40 | 40 | 140 | 5 | 6.9 | 4.5 | 600 |
QBK-50 | 50 | 240 | 5 | 6.9 | 8 | 900 |
QBK-65 | 65 | 280 | 5 | 6.9 | 8 | 900 |
QBK-80 | 80 | 400 | 5 | 6.9 | 10 | 1500 |
QBK-100 | 100 | 480 | 5 | 6.9 | 10 | 1500 |
Picture Shows
- Q:Why should we pump water into a pump when the country uses a pump to pump it?
- This is the water diversion, after the discharge of air, the pump started, under the influence of atmospheric pressure in order to absorb water.
- Q:Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?
- Remove the thermostat totally from the car and then start it with the radiator cap removed.Verify that there are no vacume controlled valves in the hoses or intake manifold.If the water isn`t moving in the radiator,the impellers are broke in the water pump most likely shaft is broken.Dumb question here(is the pump belt driven?On the front of the engine or internal pump?)
- Q:when replacing the Water pump on an Isuzu rodeo while getting a new gasket does it require gasket sealant for this type of vehicle?
- it depends mainly on the gaskets you are using whether or not they are paper type gaskets or rubber type gaskets or cork type some cars have only sealant and no gaskets most rubber gaskets don't need sealant some install it anyway for extra protection but to much sealant it could clog your cooling system if they are paper type gaskets a little sealant is added protection some mechanics put sealant on the gasket simply to hold it in place during the install some gaskets require sealant and a specific one at that there are many different types of sealant keep in mind if your gasket manufacture requires sealants to install its would be listed on the box it arrives in for the pre installation guides make sure you get the one they say also all sealant that dry some are wet sealants and never dry, keep in mine that if the sealant requires dry time after install you follow those guide lines otherwise it will leak keep in mind also that the water pump housing bolts have a specific install and tightening and torque down for that type of gaskets like 15 foot pounds on the bolts for cork type gaskets if you crank the bolts down to tight its going to split the gaskets and your back to square one replacing it again
- Q:Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?
- I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;
- Q:I'm going to be purchasing a laboratory distillation kit here pretty soon, the kit includes everything I need for the setup but the condenser requires a water pump to circulate cold water around the coils. What kind of pump would you recommend for this purpose?
- A small centrifugal pump that has the flowrate designated by the condenser manufacturer. I assume it has a heat exchanger of some type to reject the heat to the air and that would need a designate flow. Anyway, look in any lab supply catalog or web site and they will have many small pumps. You do not need to carefully control the flowrate, so stay away from metering or peristaltic pumps. The pumps may even be made of plastic, that is fine for this application. In my lab, we would just run the water from the tap through the glass condenser and let it drain out to waste. It is wasteful of water, but it sure was much cheaper than buying a pump and heat exchanger.
- Q:I have a 2004 Toyota Sienna and it has 80k+ miles on it. I guess it is the drive belt that is making the noise and I decide to have it changed. I can have the timing belt changed too because it is due at 90k miles. The dealer guy told me that I should also have the water pump changed too because of 2 reasons:1. the new timing belt will cause pressure to the old water pump. If not changed, it will leak in weeks.2. it is cheaper to do it altogether.Without changing the water pump, it would cost about $300.All would cost $1000+.My friend who also has a Sienna that has more miles on it, told me that he did not have to change the water pump.Your advice about the water pump is?
- When I change timing belts, I don't change water pumps. Since I do my own maintenance, I'm willing to spend another 4-5 hours tearing things apart to change the water pump if it subsequently fails. If I were paying a shop to do it, I'd have all the work done. Since the water pump is a moving part with bearing, its going to fail. Will it fail at 80k or 180k? Hard to tell. If you're willing to take the chance that it won't fail and are willing to pay the extra money to take it all apart again if it does, then don't change it. A better way to think of it might be in terms of how long you plan to own the vehicle. If you want to keep driving it another 100k miles, then I'd change it out now, if you plan on selling/trading it in in a couple more years, guess I'd be more inclined to skip it. Hope this helps.
- Q:and it still runs about every 1/2 hr even if you are not using water. I have no leaks from the pump thought the house so I think the problem is between the house and the well. I can't hear or see any leaks in the elbows in the well. I tried to pull the foot valve up but can't get it out. I replaced the pump cause it was worn out and it was running every 15 min. Do I need to set the pressure on the new one it cuts off at 42 and on at 20 psi and what else could cause it to run when it shouldn't? I know I should call a plumber, but haven't worked in months and can not afford one.
- Could be the check valve in your holding tank is allowing it to bleed the pressure back into the well thru the pump and once the pressure regulator drops to cut-in press the pump runs. Get a chair and watch the pressure gage.
- Q:I drive a 99vw jetta and the coolant was leaking from it i took it to a repair shop they said the water pump was bad and that the seals on the water pump where bad that was defiantly where the coolant was leaking from. I replaced the water pump and drove my car this weekend no troubles, then this afternoon my coolant light came on and i put coolant in my car and it just started trickling out i called the repair shop they said it may just be a loose hose or clamp, is this true or am i looking at something worse than the water pump that has to be replaced?? or would that issue have already came up when they where looking for where the leak was coming from before it was repaired? please help
- The pump may have indeed been bad. Did the shop put on the new pump or did you do it yourself? If it was done by the shop, take it back and make them fix it correctly. You have already paid them for the work. If you did it yourself, it should be fairly easy to spot where the leak is coming from. It is also rare but possible that the pump you put on was bad out of the box from the parts store. Not likely...but slim possibility. Hopefully it is just a loose clamp or hose.
- Q:We recently fixed our stone water fountain, and now we're trying to get it working. THe pump we had was about 5 yrs old, and didn't work. We've tried to get a new one online, but it only had one inlet for the water to go into the pump, and that got clogged in a matter of about 5 minutes. Since our garden has many trees, it's almost impossible for us to keep the fountain 100% clean all the time to prevent clogging. Anybody know where to get a pump for a 15gal fountain, that has multiple inlets?
- fountains are us
- Q:I have a 1986 Camaro and it is overheating. Thermostat was changed and fan is working. When it over heats it doesnt loose any coolant. Hoses are hot. I dont see any white smoke. No milky oil. Car runs good except sluggished going up hills. Dont see any leaks. I have notice that a water pump I replaced 2 years ago is all rusted on the outside. Could that be a bad pump? Why would a water pump rust on the outside?
- Water pumps have no protection so over time they rust, as do other underhood parts. NEVER replace any part 'till you KNOW the problem. You need to visit a RADIATOR SHOP and have your radiator looked at. Water pumps don't cause overheating, radiators do.
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Diaphragm Metering Pumps Diaphragm Pumps Canada
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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