• DG Type Perfect Performance High Pressure Boiler Feed Water Pump System 1
  • DG Type Perfect Performance High Pressure Boiler Feed Water Pump System 2
  • DG Type Perfect Performance High Pressure Boiler Feed Water Pump System 3
DG Type Perfect Performance High Pressure Boiler Feed Water Pump

DG Type Perfect Performance High Pressure Boiler Feed Water Pump

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

 Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Zhejiang, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number: DG
  • Theory: Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure: Single-stage Pump

  • Usage: Water

  • Power: Electric

  • Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

  • Fuel: Other

  • Pressure: High Pressure

  • Application: Fire

  • Max Temperature: 80 Degree

  • Pump: Multistage Centrifugal Pump

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:export plywood case for each DG Type Perfect Performance High Pressure Boiler Feed Water Pump
Delivery Detail:usual one week (according to your order quality)

Specifications

Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump 

1.Multistage centrifugal 
2.Inlet and outlet are both at horizontal 
3.small vibration 

Overview

  • TSWA Multi-stage Centrifugal Electric Water Pump is developed according to our national public security's regulation for the field of high building and fire fighting.

  • It is suitable for conveying water or physical and chemical properties similar to the other liquid water, also for mine drainage and factory building, city water supply, etc.

Q: What is a fair price to have a water pump with belts replaced on a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer?
My 2002 Trailblazer water pump went out. I was able to get a local mechanic to install it (after I bought the parts for $150.00 The fan shroud and clutch have to come off. You need a special tool also. I think the dealer wanted about 700 bucks. I had the guy do it for 150 I bought the water pump (about 40 bucks) and he replaced the serpentine belt since he had to take to old one off.
Q: The water pump needs to be able to pull up water roughly 8+ feet. Ideally the system should include a filter to eliminate the presence of jellyfish. I need the most cost efficient solar panels with wattage provided. The battery used would be something similar to a deep cycle marine battery. Additionally I must figure out the amphours. Does anyone know where I can look up previously constructed systems or my best method of approach. Whom should I seek help from? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The price range we're looking at is around $1000.
Dude okorder / You can visit them there, its got more info, i recommend call them and talk to a specialist. Good luck with the sweet aquarium!
Q: We usually wait 4 - 5 minutes for hot water in our master bath. I've been looking into ricirculation pump systems. This would have to be a retro-fit system since some of the lines run through concrete slab making adding a return loop on the line non-feasible. I have found some people comment on simply using a by-pass valve system without a pump (ie. Hot Water Lobster). We do have hard water which I've also read that can present a problem with pumps dieing quite quickly. While I'd like it, I don't need 1 second hot water, but I can't stand wasting gallons waiting for 4-5 minutes. A reasonable 15-30 second wait would be a huge improvement. Has anyone had reasonable success with the bypass valve without the pump or should I plan on getting the pump too? Thanks in advance!
Get the pump, the valve is useless without it. Why anybody would advise you to put a tankless heater under the sink to remedy one faucet when the recirc system will do it for all your fixtures is beyond me.You will not need a return line with the rscirc system. They work good!
Q: Looking for a pro's advice here. My Corolla has developed a strange noise over the past few cold weeks (Highs of 10 degrees max, well below zero at night). The sound would best be described as a cricket-type rythmic chirp noticable during acceleration. I don't believe it's a belt because it comes and goes though it has steadily gotten louder. I vaguely remember this sound being related to a bad water pump I had a few years ago. Do you think this could be the same thing? Three years for a water pump? And do water pumps tend to go out more frequently in the cold weather? Thanks!!!
First, you need to remove alternator belt and see if the noise disappear. then remove the AC (compressor belt) and notice if the noise disappear last , remove the power steering belt and see if the noise disappear IF NONE OF THESE STEPS HELP TO DETERMINE THE NOISE THEN YOU MAY HAVE TENSIONER TIMING BELT OR IDLER TIMING BELT OR WATER PUMP IS MAKING NOISE.
Q: (used in business units, cities in the North)1, how many watts, head M?2 is it fixed or removable?3, portable or heavy?4, how many units? What brand is good (Fire Department, or flood control command, often used brand, model)?5, diving?
Select the QW submersible pump, which is potential water, (flow, lift, bore, power)Flow, how many tons of water pump an hour to play, you choose how much?Lift, water pump from the destination is a few meters, how many meters?,Caliber, this pump potential water, without flange connection, only flow, head can reach.Power, look at the flow and lift is how much, and then choose the right motor (this is regular)The voltage is usually 380V.You can move, it is best to fix a seat, weight, this pump is basically a person can not move, and small can take.Brand, regular manufacturers can.Model, (caliber, flow, lift, power, voltage) tell the manufacturer.
Q: I've searched the net but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for and hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction! Maybe I'm not looking in the right place....or do I have to fabricate my own? I'm up for the challenge!1) Trying to source a water pump that I'm going to power by HAND or a BICYCLE. 2) My choice of pump to give a continuous stream of water (very important) is a rotary (centrifugal) type or is there something else capable of a continuous output?3) This will NOT BE USED for potable water. SPECS:a) lightweight but durable, the smaller, the better. b) low RPM, high volume output and capable of producing/handling pressure. c) self-primingd) able to handle some small particulates in the water as I am using rain water. (from outside, NOT filtered, so the following may be present: bugs, dust, etc...) Thank you, in advance, for your help and would be nice to thank the individual(s) for a unique answer to my request at a later date so let me know you're preferred method of contact!
There are very small rotary water pumps designed to be driven with hand-held electric drills. These pumps may be purchased in some hardware stores or farm supply stores. One could be adapted to a bicycle- type drive. Small pumps have about a 50% efficiency so you would need to produce sustained muscle power applied at around 150-200 watts to achieve 75 -100 watts of effective hydraulics. Applied watts = (GPM) (PSI) / 1.277 million (eff.) Where eff. is as a decimal. Edit : A 3/8 drill will pull about 280 watts. I can do 200 watts on an exercise bike, but not for long. I am a 79 heart patient, so you can probably do better..
Q: My car is 3 years old and it only has 18,000 miles on it and I just got it back from the repair shop at the dealership because the water pump broke. They replaced the water pump and something else that was recalled. But I looked online and found water pumps should last a long time. What might have happened to it, and what would cause it to break?
water pumps are cast aluminum normally...maybe there was a weak spot on the pump casting and it failed (but you would of overheated and had a mjor coolant loss that you would of noticed), or maybe the impellor is what internally failed and or the bearing on the shaft.. but yes normally water pumps last for awhile. I usually dont see replacement of water pumps unless doing timing belts and or high milage...but hell annything nowadays since everything seems to be made in China is cheap and poorly built compared to the old days...
Q: Hello,I have a Kia Spectra, 4 doors, automatic, 1.8, 2002, 64000 miles, and the alternator belt just broke. It seems that there is a chance that the water pump was lost on the process.I looked on line and to buy from the dealership, these pieces together would cost me around $70.What would it be a fair price for the service? (thinking that I was unlucky enough to lose the water pump?How do I know if my water pump is good and they are only changing it to make me spend more money???I am a girl (foreign student), and don't understand of car, or know any repair shop that could take care of that...Thanks!!!
Changing a water pump is usually costly because it can be time consuming. Having the belt on your car break should not cause your water pump to go out, but having your water pump go out could cause your belt to break. A way to check your water pump would be to make sure that the pully spins freely but that it does not wobble or have extra play. Another sign that your water pump is going bad is when it begins to leak. This means that the seals are bad, and that water can now get into the bearings causing them to degrade and eventually seize up.
Q: I brought my car to a shop because I get no heat. The mechanic diagnosed my car as having a blown gasket head because there were hydrocarbons in my coolant. The repair cost was too high, so a I figured I'd just run the car until it broke on me. A month later I see it overheating on the way to work and a month after that it completely powers down (electrically) while I'm driving and I see a lot of white smoke (coolant was all over the engine). After it's had time to cool down I can start it up just fine. I pour coolant in and it comes right back out the bottom of the water pump.Could a bad water pump have been the reason for the hydrocarbons and no heat in the first place? Could it have caused the appearance of hydrocarbons in my coolant? If the head gasket is blown and this is just a symptom, is it cost effective to replace the water pump or will it just break on me again in a short time?
leaky water pump would cause overheating. *overheating* would cause a chamber gasket sealing issue. so it's not the pump that caused the coolant to fail the contamination test. it's collateral damage to chamber sealing caused by the overheat condition as a result of a bad water pump. the real Q here is the type of engine. we've no idea what that is or the yr/make/model of the platform. some engines have oil and coolant passages on the intake manifold. even if those passages are blind. so in the end, it could be an intake or head gasket that took a hit after the overheat condition. -------- cost effective to fix? couldn't tell ya. that would be determinded by the condition/value of the platform, and what all took collateral damage and cost of what needs to be done. since there's no vehicle or engine info, that can only be determined by you and a diagnostic tech of your choosing.
Q: my heater in my 94 ford ranger went out about a month ago today i flushed the heater core and it worked for a while and started going out again after i was driving for 15 to 20 mins. the hose going into the heater core was warm but coming out wasnt. could it have gotten clogged again or could it be something else.
your right on the problem so to really figure it out take the hose off or lose enough to make a mess and see it flowing. Take it off at the water pump thats where it comes out at. the water pump pumps water into the radiator or up, not the other way around.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords