• Single-stage Marine Fire Fighting Pumps Unit System 1
  • Single-stage Marine Fire Fighting Pumps Unit System 2
  • Single-stage Marine Fire Fighting Pumps Unit System 3
Single-stage Marine Fire Fighting Pumps Unit

Single-stage Marine Fire Fighting Pumps Unit

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Application

Apply as the transportation of liquids in the fields of air condition, heating, sanitary water, water treatment cooling, refrigerating system, liquid circulation, water supply, pressure boosting,sea water delivery and irrigation etc.

 

Working Conditions

Rotating speed: 3600r/min, 1800r/min, 2960r/min, 1480r/min

Medium: clean water or other liquids similar to clean water in physical and chemical properties

Medium temperature: -10 ~ 80°C,400°C available under special design

Ambient temperature: Up to 40°C

Range of capacity:1.8~2000m3/h

Range of head: up to230m

Maximum working pressure: suction pressure+head of pump≤25 bar

 

Pump Construction

Casing/impeller:cast iron,stainless steel,copper,bronze

Shaft:carbon steel 45#,stainless steel

Mechnical seal:graphite/silicon carbide/tungsten carbide 

 

Structure Description

Compact structure, most application for modern constructions.

1.Pump casing: the spiral casing with pipe connection is designed and manufactured by the most superior bydraulic model nowadays, with inlet and outlet the same diameter. Flanges conform to GB4216.5, and are equipped with Rp1/4 or Rp 3/8 pressure testing plug.

2.Impeller: closed impeller ,no limit to rotation direction under the water temperature below 80°C and 120°C.

3.Special design of dynamic seal ring ensure well seal and reliable operation..

 

Motor

TEFC air-cooled squirrel cage, 3 phase asynchronous motor.

Voltage: 220V,380V,400V,415V,440V,660V(other voltage ,pls inform before order)

Frequency: 50Hz,60Hz

Insulation : IP44/IP54/IP55

Protection class: B/F

Insulation modes: B35

 

Q: The water is being put in because it was overheating. We changed the thermostat and everything and it got better, but about a month later it started overheating again and now it is leaking water bad from underneath the car. Whatever is leaking is covered by a shield thing. Im not sure what it is, and I dont want to replace it before I know if thats really what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.
Q: what is NPSH for the water pump. Can you anyone explain in details? How can it calculate?
Net Positive Suction Head Equation
Q: mechanic says the bearings are going on the pump, and they might as well replace the thermostat while they are there.my question is he right?do they have to remove the engine to replace either the pump or the thermostat?seems like a lot of $ for a what should be a simple job ($450).thanks for your help!
Sounds like you really either need to ask the mechanic how much would just the water pump and repair labour bill cost you with the thermostat.I really don't think the extra costs are worth it if such a high bill. One thing you can do is call around on the price of a new pump and then call or check around to find out what a mechanic will charge you just in labour fees and decide from there. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I doubt changing the pump would take any mechanic much longer then 45 to 90 mins to replace especially if they have the right speciality tools.So I'd also check out while comparison shopping the prices on the thermostat but if you do change it I'd install an anti-stick thermostat in it for sure.
Q: i have a 1960 ford f100 and i was wondering if its better to have an electric water pump or mechanical. ive heard mechanical is worse because at low rpms it doesnt put as much water into the motor but i wasnt sure how true that was. What was is better so that my truck doesnt overheat? and how much better is one over the other if electric will just be a little better is it even worth using? also will i need to change anything on my motor to be able to put an electric water pump on it or will it just bolt on like the mechanical one does
Whoever told you that meeds to be slapped. Most elec water pumps do not flow enough coolant for daily street use, and they do not have along enough life span for daily use The mech. pumps are in the 50-60 gallon per min range on flow. Most elec units are in the 16 to 37 gallons per min range on flow. Yes they do have a few that moves 40-55 gpm but you will PAY for those. $536 for a 55 gpm flow elec pump for a ford.. It also draws 10 amps as while. I'm not a big ford man so I'm not sure about your alt, but on chevys of that age they only had a 37 amp unit... Drawing about 1/4 of the amps for just the water pump won't work so weill. You will need to update the charging system Most will only last about 5,000 hours awell... Some of the better ones says 10,000 hours.
Q: Two sewage pumps switch from each other, start with float switch control, the first sump, when the water is full, the first start, the second rotation to second units start, so the cycle of alternating
Do you mean that 2 pumps are used in a hole? With float switch control, plus time relay 24 hours, every 12 hours at will, you set time, seconds, minutes can be
Q: Question for you. I'm looking for a 12v (no AC converter, please) water pump to drive up to 4 water misters. Needs to run off the battery, without an AC converter (already found those). The pump will pull from a water reservoir and provide cooling relief on hot days through the misters. BTW... the pump should be reasonably small, limited to a few pounds...If you have any ideas, please advise.Thanks again,Robert
Again, I'm going to make you work for this one. Call around to junk yards. See if they have any parts you can use. There's a bunch of Pull Apart places where you can look up online to see if they have any particular part you're looking for. I don't know how much a typical automobile water pump weighs, but I don't imagine it would be too big. Ask around. If you know any mechanics, or just people who work on cars as a hobby, they may know. Sorry I'm not much help in the automotive department. I can put gas in it, start it, change my oil, and change a tire. But as far as the rest goes, I don't know too much.
Q: I just had my water pump/timing belt replaced and oil change. When the pump failed, white smoke was coming out, which I figured out to be coolant from the smell. Now there is smoke coming out from under the engine, which I believe to smell like oil. Also, the temperature gauge goes up to the halfway point when I am at a stoplight or idling. The highest I have ever seen it is at 1/3.I had my car serviced by the dealership and I asked them. The man said its burning oil residue from the oil change and that it will burn away in a few days. Is this true? I have had my car worked on and oil changed for the past year at this dealership and have never had any smoke or other problems. What else could be going on? Worse case scenarios. Thanks everyone.
Oil residue ought to go in a few hours, not days !!! Anyway, if the smoke persists then it seems that youv'e got a cracked engine gasket and oil is mixing with cylinder water. Check it and check your radiator for any clogs.
Q: How do I check my well water pumping system to see if there is a leak? I have terrible rusty water.
The radiator surely holds the water/coolant and the pump circulates the mixture via the engine. Upon returning to the radiator, the water is cooled from air passing via the fins of the radiator. The pumps job is to flow the mixture to verify that the nice and comfortable water to relax subsequently, the engine is then cooled.
Q: I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.
Why okorder /
Q: The water pump on my 1997 corolla has been leaking, I want to replace it by myself. I did some research online, and get the diagram of the engine structure. It seems to me it is not very hard to do, but who knows, it might end up being a very tricky job. Did anyone replace the water pump on 97 corolla before? How difficult was it? Two things I actually worry: 1. It might be hard to unbolt the water pump pulley, because there is little room insert a wrench. 2. Also, because of the lack of room, it would be also hard to unbolt the timing belt cover (the 2nd/middle cover). A shop gave the quote of $440 to replace the water pump, and I think I should be able to do it myself.
it is the water pump. you will be bettor off letting the shop put it on because if you don't have the right tools DO NOT TRY TO DO YOURSELF. the water pump is right in front fan motor all that has to come off to get to the pump.

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