• Customized auto spare parts,brake disc rotor for 4351235190 System 1
Customized auto spare parts,brake disc rotor for 4351235190

Customized auto spare parts,brake disc rotor for 4351235190

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Shanghai
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Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
10000 pc/month

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Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer

1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.

2.equipped with Disa sand process line.

3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates

4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.

5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )

6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)

Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc

uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc

OEM parts Good quality Competitive price 
Excellent part supply system 
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949




Q: I am looking for brand new brake parts that are as follows: drilled and slotted rotors hopefully 12 - 13 in diameter and heavy duty four piston calipers with a combination of metallic and carbon fiber brakes for a 2003 Honda CRV with four wheel drive and four wheel disc. Does any one know where you can find these parts?
Unless you are pushing 1000-2000 HP out of this CRV then it will be a waste of money. The carbon brakes will not even grab until they get up to a good temperature and believe me street driving DOES NOT get your brakes this hot. This setup also runs about $6,000 just for the front so you really need to ask yourself is it worth it?
Q: I bought my car new in 2007 and now have 90,000 miles on it. I can‘t ever remember having the brakes serviced or pads changed.
Until they wear out. Depends on alot of factors. Brake pads may be ablative or abrasive (metallic, semi-metallic, ceramic). There's also organic brakes, but i have no idea if they are abrasive or ablative. Pads that are abrasive have shorter life spans, but are less susceptible to heat distortion or damage from heat. Pads that are ablative have longer life spans, but are more prone to heat distortion or glazing, or other types of heat related damage. Then there are other factors, such as driving style, weight of vehicle, etc. If the car is subject to rather spirited driving, then the brakes tend to not last as long. Also the condition of the brake system makes a difference. The pads in a system that is sticking or binding (causing the brakes to be constantly applied) will not last as long as those in a system whose calipers move freely. Also, the same model vehicle may have different design brakes, depends on options they may be larger, or of a different type. An example that comes to mind are older F-Body cars, the 6 cylinder types had rear brake drums, while the 8 cylinder models had all wheel brake pads. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but I don't think that anyone can give a mileage as how often brake pads must be changed, or how long they will last. The answer to your question is, they last until they are worn out.
Q: Trying to find out what is the function of brake cylinders?
They are the hydraulic operators for a brake system. The master cylinder is actuated when you press the brake pedal and provides high pressure hydraulic fluid to the wheel cylinders in a drum brake system or the calipers in a disc brake system. In the wheel cylinders the hydraulic fluid pushes two pistons which expands the shoes into the drum to provide friction for stopping. In the calipers the hydraulic fluid pushes a piston which squeezes the discs against the rotor to provide friction for stopping the car.
Q: What is a Drum Braking System?
The drum brakes use the brake mechanism to press the brake shoe against the inside of the brake drum to produce the braking force, to slow down the wheel or to stop in the shortest possible distance to ensure safety Protect the car parked reliable and can not automatically slip. Drum brakes are less costly and easy to combine with parking (parking) brakes.
Q: I had to replace the left rear bakeline in my 93 Corsica and I am having problems w/ bleeding them. I have tried to bleed them all day and I am still getting air bubbles. I did see a drop of brake fluid by the Master Cylinder, So I am wondering if the Master Cylinder is the problem.
im thinking yu have tightened up any connections at the master clyinder also if you had let the cylinder go dry you gotta bleed it. ok then you need to keep plenty of juice in the cylinder there are 2 resivors. go to the wheel that is furthest from the cylinder, but first pull the drum on the replacement brake linings look at the brake cylinders pull back a boot not off just take a piece of it and peel it back not off if you get any fluid coming out of it you have a bad cylinder check the other side of the cylinder if it is good look to see if the piston push rods are set right if they look cool button it back up,, have some one get in the car pump it up and you open the bleed bolt. well you know how to do that retighten pump open hold down tighten untill a stright shot comes out tighten go back to the cylinder refill go to the rear drivers side same deal then front pass then drivers side you should have pedel just dont let your cylinder go down. If you have abs then you may need to vacum bleed them your shop has one. all else fails new cylinder ALWAYS go to the easist thing first and work up. how come you only replace one wheel brake linings? maybe i misunderstood. good luck
Q: Before a road accident,my car had been recently serviced and the brakes were very good. After the accident, the brakes were spongy and air had got into the system. In the accident,the car had impact damage on the near side wheel and the off side wheel had bumped up a high kerb.I had also braked excessively to try and avoid the collision. There was no evidence of any damage to the braking system.How could air have got into the system?
Sounds like you damaged something that is causing brake fluid to leak somewhere. Could be a line, a fitting, a wheel cylinder? If fluid leaks out it has to be replace with air. It's not so much how did air get in but where is the fluid leaking? Other wise the repair guys fixed some leak in the brakes and never bled all of the air out properly. I think I'd check in with the repair facility.
Q: ok so i just got new brake pads on my car and they squeal when i press on them. also there is a hard jerking motion and its almost a sudden stop when i press on them a little too hard. did they forget to oil them firsthand? any ideas would be great.
It sounds like your brake pedal is a lot stiffer than before the brake job. When you had your brakes done, they would have bled the air out of the braking system. Air can cause the pedal to feel spongy. Now the pedal probably feels very solid. You may need to adjust the amount of force you use to push the brake pedal. Metallic brake pads have a tendency to squeal. Brakes aren't oiled, they are greased and lack of grease can cause squealing too. Grease is applied to the back of the brake pads and sometimes to the caliper pins/sliders. If you feel something is definitely wrong, take your car back to where you had the worn done and tell them your concerns.
Q: I have a 1978 Chevy Corvette, I replaced the master cylinder, booster, calipers, brake pads, and rotors, and bleed the system 20 times, has new fluid, and each caliper is getting good fluid flow, and absolutly no leaks. The brake pedal feels good but it doesnt want to stop, stand on the brake pedal and doesnt lock up. There is no air in the system. Does anyone have any ideas on what else it can be? The only other thing I can think of is the Brake Booster I bought is bad. It was a re-man unit from the auto parts store.
achieveable complications are starter solenoid, starter relay, or ignition change, perchance a software computer chip and a lot less probably the before reported transmission or brake interlocks. it truly is the problem: it can not be clinically determined if the vehicle is taking off because the circuit is for sure operating then. it may purely be clinically determined even as the circuit isn't operating because then the meters can hit upon a spoil contained in the circuit. about the purely thanks to get this clinically determined is to have your motor vehicle towed to a mechanic even as it takes position next time and under no circumstances attempt to restart it. certain it truly is an severe priced soreness contained in the butt yet so is replacing factors blindly. My journey is this may happen further and extra many times and finally go away you stranded, perchance in a detrimental position. connect Allstate Motor club ($a million for the first 3 months) and performance it towed even as it takes position back, allstate grants you loose towing as a lot as $250 worth! undesirable issue, good success!
Q: Why is the Automatic Brake System(ABS) light of my Audi 80 car is permanently on?
I think you mean anti lock brakes. If that light is on it means there is a fault in the antilock system. Could be a wheel sensor or something else. Your breaks will still function but you will not have the protection provided by the ABS system. If you hit the breaks hard, they will lock. You most likely will need to have the ABS system scanned to see where the problem is.
Q: my brakes are sticking only when they get hot or when the brake fluid gets hot i have replaced the wheel beering schecked the calibers and hoses along with removing the abs fuse so what else could it be please give me some more ideas
Randall, all ya got to do is have the brake system flushed and fresh fliud in. What happens is brake fluid and water mix REAL WELL TOGETHER and can ruin the ABS system costing big bucks to replace it(#1 rule with brake fluid and ABS systems is flush at least once a yr). Your local dealership service dept can do this along with Midas or similar shops

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