• Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad System 1
  • Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad System 2
Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
20000 pc
Supply Capability:
2000000 pc/month

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Quick Details

Packaging : 

Packaging Details:Usually packed by Neutro packing inside,white/colored carton outside
Delivery Detail:within 30 days after deposit

Specifications

Japanese car brake pads
1.Good performance of brake pads with long life time
2.No black dust residue
3.Less brake disc wear

                                                      car brake pads


1.Material:

 

Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos.

 

2.Certificate:

 

ISO9001 and TS16949 approved.

 

3.Advantage:

 

-Significantly reduced dust development

-Practically noise-free

-Better rim appearance

-Greater comfort

-No brake judder

-Better environmental protection

-Lower repair costs

-Very safe

4.The price will be sent to you soon after get your OEM or Drawings.

We are trying to do our work better to improve our products so that we can make all of our customers' satisfied. All inquires will be greatly appreciated.

 

Product Name:  car brake pads
MATERIAL:Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos
Life Timeabove 40000kms
StandardGB5763/2008
PRODUCT FEATURES:1) High friction coefficient, Low noise,Wear resistant;
2) Good thermal recession and recovery;
3) Good performance of water proof;
4) Friction coefficient:0.25-0.4/0.30-0.40/0.40-0.50/0.50-0.60
5) long life time
Packing

 

1.Inner box Neutral box white good quality the size accords to product size.

2.Can be according to client requirement and use client brand.

picture of brake pad:

 

 

Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

 

Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

 

 

Q: I have been having trouble shifting out of park.I press on the brakes, lights come on and everything, but I can‘t seem to get it out of park and the brake pedal would get real stiff when I press on it. It used to happen once or twice a week, but now its happening every day. When I press on the brakes I hear a hissing sound which I know is a dead ringer for air in the brakes. Now, my question is this: Since I have air in my brakes, is that the reason why I‘m having trouble putting my car into gear OR could that possibly be a separate unrelated problem? Thanks so much.
As others have stated, the hissing sound is not at all a dead ringer for air in your brakes, it is a defective brake booster. It is not likely to affect the shift lock system which you are having trouble with. Most cars have a method to bypass the shift-lock system by depressing a generally hidden button by the shifter. The whole system is usually controlled by some brake switch that recognizes when the brake pedal is depressed. Look for some sort of switch that gets depressed at the pedal, see if it's knocked out of place or otherwise faulty If you can't attend to that, figure out how to deactivate the shift lock mechanism
Q: so my car breaks are pretty much in need of some new break fluid. my car keeps yelling at me every day i don‘t change it, and honestly I‘m a little scared to drive it before i get this problem fixed. i would look in the manual but i don‘t have one, so can you just tell me where the brake fluid goes, cus that would be just fantastic :)
Well, cars aren't designed to turn a light on, or tell you that you need to change the fluid. The light may be on for LOW fluid, but never change brake fluid Google your car's make and modle, say, Ford Taurus brake fluid reservoir make sure to use Brake fluid reservoir after the make and modle. Also there is a cap on it, or a silver/grey lid with a metal strap arm over it. that's it. Or take it to autozone. or some place like that, they can do it for you probably for nothing. You'd have to buy the fluid though
Q: So today I noticed that my ABS warning light came on while driving. I pulled over, turned the car off and back on, and the light reset. By the time I got to the store, it was back on. When I left the store, it was off and didn‘t come back on all the way home. I know that ABS stands for anti-brake system, but what could be causing the light to come on and why wouldn‘t it stay on constantly?
ABS Anti lock brake system. intermitent problem with the wheel speed sensors are not uncommon. A code has been set into the computers memory and a qualified tech can fix it easy and for not to much money. Have a nice day!
Q: I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 4wd extended cab pickup. I was driving in 4wd auto yesterday and my brake pedal went to the floor, it stops the truck but its low to the floor. Anyway i decided to put the truck back into 2hi and the brake pedal was fine. It did not go to the floor and felt normal. What is causing this and how do i repair it?
There is no connection between the 4WD system and the brake system in that vehicle; I think you just experienced a coincidence. (In some newer vehicles, there might be a connection through the traction control system. But not in 2002.) A brake pedal that sinks to the floor, but returns to firmness when pumped even once, is a classic symptom of a failing master cylinder. Go out and sit in the truck, and press on the brake pedal. Doesn't matter engine on or off, or whatever. Pay close attention to your foot: Is the brake pedal slowly sinking to the floor? Give it a full minute with your foot on the brake. It's possible that you've got a leak elsewhere in the system. But I'd bet on the master cylinder. Don't wait, though. Get to a mechanic before this thing kills you.
Q: I am a freshman in high school and I'm taking an engineering class in which we have to have a wheel and axle used and a lever, acting as the brake has to stop the wheel and axle from moving and then start it again. I need some advice because I'm kind of lost on this particular project.
How about just having a wooden lever rub against the wheel? At the other extreme you could go to an auto junk yard and get a brake caliper, disc rotor, and a master cylinder with reservoir.
Q: ok, so i have a bmx and its a few years old but i like it. except for the brakes that is. my back brakes dont work at all even though i replaced the pads not to long ago, and i 1 brake pad off my front tire so the metal will rub on the tire so i can actually stop! why are they like this and how can i fix it?
As long as they are the same (bias ply, or radial) for both tires, and the tread patterns are simular you should be okay. Also stick with name brand tires-STAY away from cheap brands of tires like Chen Shin (which are great dry weather tires but really suck in wet weather).
Q: I had an car accident. It costed $2500 for body shop. Then it was told that mechanical repair is needed for brake system since brake fluid leak. How much might it cost? Thanks
That's a LOT of money for a Saturn. I hope you got some insurance settlement for the repair. Depends how severe the leak is. Possibly the master cylinder or one of the brake cylinders. Either way the brakes need to be bled again so include that into the bill as well. Contact a shop about the pricing. This is yahoo answers not yahoo mechanic quotes
Q: 2000 Isuzu Trooper. Left rear (driver side) is very hot VERY HOT !I took it apart and tried to press the piston back with a C clamp. It sticks out about 3/4 inch.Is that ok. Should I only replace the rotor and pads ?
the piston has to go back far enough to be flush with the caliper, you can't use a c-clamp on the rear calipers to get it back in place as the piston turns in instead of pushing in, not like the front calipers, go to autozone or any auto store and buy the special tool for rear calipers to be able to get the piston pushed back in properly.
Q: Why is Modern hydraulic braking systems dual designs and why is it important?
You sound 0% sure and 100% lost. Want to know whats leaking? Crawl under there and look. Stop being a Nancy boy.
Q: and it doesnt rust fittings, i know the down side to it is its spongey brake feel but i think itl do i mean im not gona be racing and would prefer not to have the bike rust from the inside out like lower dots. anyone disagree?
Never Never never use DOT 5 in a motorcycle brake system. Dot 5 is for cars. Use DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1. Dot 5 will eat seals and hoses if used in a bike system read your manual. All brake fluid absorbs water. The diffrence is they have different boiling points lower for 3 higher for 5.1

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