• Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad System 1
  • Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad System 2
Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
20000 pc
Supply Capability:
2000000 pc/month

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Quick Details

Packaging : 

Packaging Details:Usually packed by Neutro packing inside,white/colored carton outside
Delivery Detail:within 30 days after deposit

Specifications

Japanese car brake pads
1.Good performance of brake pads with long life time
2.No black dust residue
3.Less brake disc wear

                                                      car brake pads


1.Material:

 

Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos.

 

2.Certificate:

 

ISO9001 and TS16949 approved.

 

3.Advantage:

 

-Significantly reduced dust development

-Practically noise-free

-Better rim appearance

-Greater comfort

-No brake judder

-Better environmental protection

-Lower repair costs

-Very safe

4.The price will be sent to you soon after get your OEM or Drawings.

We are trying to do our work better to improve our products so that we can make all of our customers' satisfied. All inquires will be greatly appreciated.

 

Product Name:  car brake pads
MATERIAL:Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos
Life Timeabove 40000kms
StandardGB5763/2008
PRODUCT FEATURES:1) High friction coefficient, Low noise,Wear resistant;
2) Good thermal recession and recovery;
3) Good performance of water proof;
4) Friction coefficient:0.25-0.4/0.30-0.40/0.40-0.50/0.50-0.60
5) long life time
Packing

 

1.Inner box Neutral box white good quality the size accords to product size.

2.Can be according to client requirement and use client brand.

picture of brake pad:

 

 

Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

 

Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

 

 

Q: I had my brake pads replaced, because I knew it was time, after 3 years of driving on the same pads. I had a little grinding but not much at all. I took it in the a brakes only brake shop, and the guys says that my calibers need to be rebuilt because they are scraping the brake pads, and if i didn‘t do this, i would be back in 2 months because the will then need an entire new brake system for my 3 year old car. i told him to just replace the pads. now when i stop (like at a stop light) i hear a scrubbing noise when i take my foot off the brake. The car stops just fine, even from a higher speed. Did the shop do something to my car b/c they couldn‘t up sell me?
Try driving your car for a while and when you're out of traffic try a few hard stops. This should stress the brake system a little and help to seat the pads and hopefully free up your calipers. You were right to opt for just the pads. Even if your calipers require replacement, that mechanic was blowing smoke. There's no way your calipers can scrape anything that's going to matter. Worst case: They could possibly have been scraping the back side (non-stopping surface) of your pads. This would cause a nuisance noise, but that's about all, and very unlikely on a three year old car. If my suggestion doesn't do the trick for you, find a different shop to fix your brakes.
Q: I have been told that it will cost upwards of $1000 to have a mechanic do the job and I‘ve priced parts to do it myself which will save me about 60% but I don‘t know where to begin!
I stumped my toe I suppose I gets a hair reduce. Makes approximately as so much experience as what you probably did. What fool talked you into striking a brand new motor in when you consider that it could now not begin? I have heard of a few beautiful shady tips to milk a few cash out of men and women however this one is headed to the highest. Get a tester and assess the battery.Auto Zone will do it at no cost.If it really works assess the starter.Hey bet what? Auto Zone will do this to.If it really works it have to be a relay earlier than the starter. please inform me that is only a funny story and also you fairly did not change the motor when you consider that it would not begin.
Q: Older car, not bad shape. No brakes to mention. Pedal almost to floor. Changed master cylinder, bled all wheels, still the same. No visable leaks, does not lose fluid. Shoes and pads are OK. Any ideas?
Properly done the quickest stop involves first using the rear brake to set the motorbike low on it's suspension and then using the front brake to it's greatest extent without flipping the bike over the front tire. (try that in a full bore I'm going to crash panic!)
Q: I noticed that the brake fluid reservoirs are located high enough to be above the brake levers. why is this? Does it have something to do with gravity pushing the brake fluid down so the system is filled with brake fluid at all times?
This Site Might Help You. RE: why are brake fluid reservoirs located so high on motorcycles? I noticed that the brake fluid reservoirs are located high enough to be above the brake levers. why is this? Does it have something to do with gravity pushing the brake fluid down so the system is filled with brake fluid at all times?
Q: I‘m doing an assignment, and I was wondering if I could get an answer on compression brakes. I‘ve done most of it, i just need some confirmation. Any history of these brakes and the materials they are made of and hav been made of would be great. thanks
Locomotives have three types of brakes . 1. Air brakes 2. Dynamic Brakes there not really brakes the engines power is cut from the traction motors that are attached to the wheels . when you do this the wheels wanna turn backwards slowing the train down is a very strong force 3. Hand brakes a trains brake system works by air . if there is any disruption in the train ( i.e. separation, derailment, or going to fast ) the train goes into Emergency all the air is dumped and all brakes automatically apply,on all cars
Q: I just bought a 99 ford contour from a used car dealership and while driving it home it died twice while braking(never did it while test driving). Since then it has died on a few other occasions, all while braking at low speeds. I also noticed that when braking at higher speeds, the car seems to jump with the brakes. I can feel it in the brake peddle pushing back and forth with resistance rhythmically while the car is coming to a stop. The fuel pump has also been making a whining noise. Not sure if it‘s the braking or the fuel pump that‘s causing the car to die. Any ideas what the problem is?
sounds like you've got a winner, the brakes bumping back and forth is your anti-lock brake system trying to keep your brakes from locking up, sounds like your in need of a brake jobA.S.A.P. The stalling is either a bad injector/leaking injector, or a vacuum leak, which the vacuum leak could also in a round about way be connected to your anti-lock brakes acting up. You should've had the car checked out before you purchased it, oh well, it's your problem to fix now. Not unless you can somehow conn the dealer you bought it from into fixing it, give them a sob story. If your successful in that, hats off to you. Good luck. Either way, your going to have to get it to a Mechanic A.S.A.P. and get it looked at.
Q: hi, im trying to replace my front brake, my brake is really old, so i bought new brake pads, but once i bought the new brake pads, and try to put everything back in the caliper will not fit inside? i have no idea how to put my caliper back in.
You need to get a c clamp and use it to open the caliper (push the piston in) so it will fit because the new brake pads are thicker than the old ones. Be careful letting brake fluid spill over out of the master cylinder. It will catch fire if it falls on the exhaust or something hot enough.
Q: like to do a project on regenerative braking system any help please?
I would say ask solar car motor manufacturer Solectria but they were bought out. Honda and Toyota hybrids use them. In general the regenerative braking systems are velocity dependent and tend to absorb less efficiently at low RPM. They also tend to be much less efficient than the electric motor.
Q: My brakes are squeaking and they‘re not doing too well. I really have to press down on them to really brake. I have a 1998 Camaro Z28. What would I need to do to them? Is this a job that I can do myself? I‘m trying to do everything myself with this car so I can get a better knowledge of servicing my own vehicles. Thanks
The problem could range from a simple adjustment, air in the brake system or the most severe; total brake failure. Having a professional perform the necessary bleed, adjustments and inspection to determine the exact nature of the problem would be advised. Due to anti-lock brakes and the ever increasing complexity of brake systems, it is not a good idea to allow a shade-tree mechanic or yourself to risk damage to extremely expensive components. It is better to allow a certified technician to perform the task.
Q: Why is it that when my car is turned-off, I can only press the breaks a couple of times before it stiffens up?
Modern Auto Brakes have what is call Vac assisted brakes that mean that the braking process is made Easier with enging Vac supplied to a Brake Booster. What you are doing when you depress the pedal with the moter off is Bleeding off all the stored Vac in the Booster The hard pedal after bleeding off is what your brake would feel like without Vac Assist.

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