Auto Parts Brake Pads Price/ Supplier

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 20000 pc

Supply Capability:: 2000000 pc/month

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Quick Details

Packaging :

Packaging Details:	Usually packed by Neutro packing inside,white/colored carton outside
Delivery Detail:	within 30 days after deposit

Specifications

Japanese car brake pads
1.Good performance of brake pads with long life time
2.No black dust residue
3.Less brake disc wear

1.Material:

Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos.

2.Certificate:

ISO9001 and TS16949 approved.

3.Advantage:

-Significantly reduced dust development

-Practically noise-free

-Better rim appearance

-Greater comfort

-No brake judder

-Better environmental protection

-Lower repair costs

-Very safe

4.The price will be sent to you soon after get your OEM or Drawings.

We are trying to do our work better to improve our products so that we can make all of our customers' satisfied. All inquires will be greatly appreciated.

Product Name:	car brake pads
MATERIAL:	Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos
Life Time	above 40000kms
Standard	GB5763/2008
PRODUCT FEATURES:	1) High friction coefficient, Low noise,Wear resistant;
	2) Good thermal recession and recovery;
	3) Good performance of water proof;
	4) Friction coefficient:0.25-0.4/0.30-0.40/0.40-0.50/0.50-0.60
	5) long life time
Packing	1.Inner box Neutral box white good quality the size accords to product size. 2.Can be according to client requirement and use client brand.

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Q1: Why buy Materials & Equipment from OKorder.com?

A1: All products offered by OKorder.com are carefully selected from China's most reliable manufacturing enterprises. OKorder.com adheres to the highest standards and a commitment to supply chain safety and customer satisfaction.

Q2: How do we guarantee the quality of our products?

A2: We have established an advanced quality management system which conducts strict quality tests at every step, from raw materials to the final product. At the same time, we provide extensive follow-up service assurances as required.

picture of brake pad:

Auto Parts Brake Pads Price/ Supplier

Q:I have a 2005 mitsubishi galant. Recently i had an issue while driving where my brake pedal went all the way to the floor and i couldn‘t stop. I was in the process of getting new back brakes. I replaced the rotors, brake pads in back and also bought a brand new master cylinder, thinking that was what was causing the problem. However with all these new parts installed and yes they were bled correctly, its still going to the floor, no brake pressure at all, any ideas?: Sounds like someone put power steering fluid in your master cylinder. Power steering fluid can and will ruin all the seals in your braking system. You will need to replace the entire braking system, that is all the brake lines, all the seals anything that is rubber in the system. IF someone did put power steering fluid in your brake system all the rubber seals will swell and lose any property they had for making seals.

Q:caddie van brake system getting air into nearside back brake but not leeking brake fluid any ideas?: you can use or install a saddle valve under your sink on the cold water side, then run your 1/4 plastic tubing from the valve to under sink to the solenoid valve at the bottom of the frig. this is the easyist way and you dont have to shut off any water to do so. Another way is to replace the cold water shut off under the sink with a duel outlet shut off valve. One side connects to your cold water for the sink and the other connects to your ice maker water line. You will have to shut offf the water to your house to do this though. Hope this helps

Q:I have a 91 toyota MR2 and when i press the brake, i really have to press it down to make it stop. not sensative at all unless im pushing far down on it. not really sure what it could be. brakes make no noise or screeching sound so i don&#39;t think its the pads or rotors. anybody have any ideas or know any links to websites that might help me out?: hydraulics problem maybe, some of the brake liquid is out maybe

Q:The disc‘s in the front of my polo keep on warping i‘m going onto my 4th set of front disc‘s and the car has only done a total of 25000km(my brake pads are wearing just fine). if anyone could offer some advise on how to solve this problem.: The brakes are normally reliable on all VWs, I have just changed the discs on mine for the first time at 125,000 miles, it may be the way you drive, for example, when your brakes are hot don't press the brake pedal at lights or when you stop, use the hand brake instead, avoid sharp acceleration when you know you are coming to a stop soon after, between red lights for example. The discs are warping due to heat build up, which is then locked into one small space by the pads.

Q:Ok someone correct me if I am wrong. I assume that this is the way brakes are made upyou have the pads, which are cheapand ‘underneath them you have the rotors, calipers, etc. Why not just frequently replace your brake PADS, that way they would never grind down far enough to where you would have to replace the more expensive componants of your brakes. As in, replace your pads every 6 months.before they grind away and into the major components of your brakes. This would save everyone a lot of money correct?: the shape of the pads can be changed by simple road anomolies like dirt and gravel. Your rotors will adjust to this shape eventually, but the best thing is to replace your pads when needed and have your rotors turned at the same time. This will ensure the best use of your brakes, which is vital to the safe operation of your vehicle. Replacing your pads every 6 months is a bit excessive, brakes can last a few years if you don't abuse your vehicle.

Q:which car or which brake system for cars has the lowest 100-0 km/h or mph?(limit it to production cars)thanks!: Lead Additive For Unleaded Gas

Q:I recently replaced the master cylinder, calipers, pads, rotors, and brake fluid on my 1992 Jeep Cherokee. I have bled the system 4 times since then, so Im sure there is no air in the system, however only the left brake feels like it is working, it‘s not very evident until I apply them hard then it pulls to the left. Is there something that I didn‘t do or messed up?: possibly a bad brand new caliper on the right side or try replacing the brake hose on that side as it might be collapsing.

Q:I have a 93 ford explorer, my brakes line went out a few months back and i have just gotten around to replacing them. once i got the new line installed i bled out the lines and i had pressure, but as soon as i turn the truck on it all goes away instantly. i have checked under/around all the brake lines and there is no leak any where. does any one have any idea what i can do to try and fix it?: Yes, get smaller rims. A lot of after-market shops made a LOT of money selling over-sized rims for cars that should not have them. That little Mazda 3 shouldn't have rims over 16 inches. 15 if it was my car.

Q:I recently changed out my front brake pads and rotors. Now I need to bleed the brakes, do I blled all four, and the master? Someone told me just the front two!? Doesn‘t sound right to me, And how do u bleed the master, On my 95 Dodge Ram.: The easiest way is to buy some speedy bleed bleeder screws and install in your calipers. this will allow you to do it with one person. Then you would want to remove fluid from master cyl until about 1/4 full, fill with new fluid and bleed wheel farthest from MC first working your way to the closest. usually RR, LR, RF, LF. It's a little more technical with two people, if you don't want to use speedy bleeders. Timing and finesse are usually required, and usually goes like this: Pump pedal to build pressure, hold medium pressure, open bleeder screw, as the person depressing the pedal gets close to the floor they shout and you close the bleeder screw. It's best not to depress the pedal all the way. 3/4 travel is best. keep doing it till you see clean new fluid or if the fluid already looks clean pump a pint through for each rear and a half pint for each front. be sure to keep the reservoir full or you can pump air in. then it turns into a headache. this will bleed the master cyl, lines and calipers, but not the abs system if equipped. The master cylinder only needs to be bench bleed when it has been removed from the vehicle or it is new. And as dodge man said the gravity bleed is good too, almost fool proof, but takes along time. You just open the bleeder screw and let it slowly drip, then close the bleeder. with gravity feed i have done two wheels at once. rears at the same time, and fronts at the same time. be sure to keep an eye on that fluid level. No matter what any one says, you should replace your fluid every time you do your brakes. If you do that, pads and fluid are the only things you will have to replace.

Q:I have a Nissan Pathfinder, but would like to know the general rule of thumb to have automotive brakes inspected and possibly shoes pads replaced in order to avoid complete replacement of rotors and brakes every couple of years.: Pour ROOM temperature Water before you do it

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