Auto spare parts for chery S11 QQ brake disc (OEM:S11-3502030)

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Q: my bf has well had a 2004 civic and hes had brake problems since he got it in 2005 having to change them more often then you should took it to honda they didn‘t know what was wrong and no one else did either well about a week ago coming to a stop sign the brakes completely went out and ending up bumping into someone and causing a wreck. I wanna know if there has been a recall on this model he never got anything in the mail about it but anyway I also wanna know if anyone else has had this problem with their brakes Iv looked on line and seen a lot of ppl with master cylinder we don‘t know if the brake line broke or if it was the cylinder.: shame about your brake problem mate :/

Q: the service brake system warning and brakes light came o.: You do not know if the brakes, as you call them, need to be replaced. The brakes of any car have many components. That is why people take their cars to a mechanic for an inspection and estimate of repairs. There is no charge for this. Did you bother to read the owner's manual as this warning light or icon or message? I did and I also have a Mariner Hybrid SUV. The general recommendation is to contact a mechanic, preferably a Ford dealership. However, any auto repair business can take care of brakes. This could be something as simple as low brake fluid which may indicate a leak or improper service or brake pads or a few more additional items. Asking here as to repairs is both not smart nor logical. Repairs vary by city, state and country. As I said, brake inspections ARE FREE OF CHARGE. No reason at all not get the car to a mechanic. As mater of procedure, cars are inspected periodically. Brakes require an inspection during an oil change as a matter of service.

Q: I‘m working on a friends car, he drove with the E brake on for about 50miles or so, I‘ve changed the wheel cylinder in the rear and all, he tried to change his from pads by himself (still had pressure issues) and broke a screw. He complained about the lack of pressure before, my question is, where could the pressure loss come from (aside from broken bleeder screw)? It a 95 camry. Also, this thing keeps eating tires, 3 sets in 2 years, the susspension is fine and they don‘t rub walls or anything. Thanks in advance.: sounds like there is a leak some where in the brake system other then the screw. how long has it been since the brake lines been inspected? the tire issue is hard to tie down. could be a alignment issue. or if the tires aren't the right kinda tires for the car then it would wear them down fast also. make sure that they are not just the right size but also the right rating as well. but your comment about them not rubbing walls gives me the impression that they are wearing on the outer edges which would be a alignment issue. but the leak might be the crew also I would deff replaced the screw

Q: Already replaced break booster, master cylinder, 2 wheel cylinders, checked the brake calibers and all the lines and the brake pedal still goes down to the floor. Please help me with any suggestions of what it could be. Anything will be greatly appreciated.: Not bled properly. Redo it.

Q: I have a 2000 v-star custom. I‘m changing the wire looms over every cable and have done everyone except the brake cable. How do you bleed the air out of the brake system after pulling the cable? How do you know when all the air is out of the system? I don‘t want to crash and die because I didn‘t get all the air out :)!: use surringe and force fluid to brake caliper whole air will go with the flow back to the brake reservoir

Q: MY RED BRAKE LIGHT IS ON IN MY 2001 NISSAN MAXIMA GXE. THE EMERGENCY BREAK BREAK LIGHT THAT IS. THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ISN‘T ON OR ANYTHING, BUT THE LIGHT IS. WHATS GOING ON?: That light also warns of a hydraulic malfunction in the braking system. If the pedal feels fine the most likely your brake fluid is low. Don't just top it off tho, it gets low due to brake pads being worn. Check your brake pads and replace them, when you push the caliper pistons back in it will raise the level of the fluid back to full.

Q: I added brake fluid and bled the line but still get nothing when i hit the foot brake.: often, rear callipers are the type that have one piston and have to slide across a bit to bite; usually they jam on not off. However, dismount calliper and spray with brake cleaner, maybe all it needs short term (but keep an eye on it and check pad wear whilst it's off). Check scored disc too, or if the disc has a pronounced 'lip' at the edge where it didn't get worn but now stops the pads biting. As you had to add fluid, the pads have obviously got thinner, hence the master cylinder went down a bit. That is normal but not all of a sudden - do you check frequently (of course you should) - weekly at least. Back to swing callipers - do they slide together apart as on oiled silk, or do they not budge? If the latter, they have to come apart and the rods holding the inner to the outer may respond to de-rusting. If the rubber boots covering those parts are even slightly damaged or just a loose fit, that is the probable story. Twin piston callipers (hydraulic push from both sides, nothing has to slide across) should be near infallible if the pads are OK. Any pad down to bare metal makes a fearful squeal - did that happen lately? BTW, is the footbrake pedal really really firm now, or a bit squidgy - have you really got all the air out of it? What colour was the fluid you bled, normally it's darker than when new but if it came out into the jar with crud, you may have a return hole blockage now. Drain whole system overnight, refill gently and re-start the bleed process with all fresh juice. If you're in the slightest doubt about what you're doing, take it to a pro; it is a killer to have brake failure.

Q: is it possible to put brembo brakes off of a 2007 Lancer Evolution MR on to my 1990 eagle talon tsi awd?(that is both the caliper and rotor): I believe there is a possibility. I'm looking into doing this to my 1994 4G37. I've been researching for quite some time, and it seems that we will have to create a bracket to hold the caliper in place, other than that, I think that's all it would take. Though, I'm not sure about the 1990 brake set-up, I don't know if they changed anything from the body styles from '90-'92. In any case, you could try bringing a spare '90 caliper with you and see how well they match up.

Q: What if someone never changed their brakes and the brakes are completely worn out? Would the ABS kick in or would the calibers be damaged? Thanks!: Both disk drum brakes have indicators which make a distinct metal-metal squeal or grinding when you apply the brakes on a car with worn pads. The indicators are pieces of sheet metal which hit the rotor/drum just before the pads are totally worn away. Once you hear it, the time to have the brakes checked is NOW. Before ABS (anti-lock braking systems), people would just slam on the brakes until they feel the car start to skid. Then, a good driver would take their foot off the brake, allowing the wheel to rotate, and step on the pedal again. This pumping action on a panic stop is exactly what the ABS does. only faster and more accurately. If you brakes are completely worn out, the car won't stop. That's because metal-on-metal slides. The pads pressing against the metal drum/disk cause more drag than metal-on-metal. With worn-out brakes, the car won't stop; without ABS, with ABS or even with the hand brake. And no, driving with worn-out brakes won't damage the ABS that is, unless you can't stop and drive into a tree. Many places, like brake muffler shops will do FREE brake inspections. When in doubt, have them do an inspection. If it needs brakes, they will give you a written quote, listing all the parts work to be done. (With that, you can take your car to a good shade-tree mechanic to repair your brakes fro a reasonable price. It isn't difficult.)

Q: I JUST bought a 2011 chevy cruze. Literally 3 days ago.And at first, everything was fine with it. But today I was driving it, and I go to stop and it starts bumping and I could smell rubber burn. Yes, it does have a button to put more traction on your wheels, and I turned it off. Yet on specific times I stopped it wouldn‘t, and it felt like it was trying to stop but wasn‘t getting traction. So does anyone know what could be the issue? I thought it was just the fact that it was new tires, but the first 2 days it was fine. I also don‘t have the emergency brake on. So I don‘t know?: Hope you're not driving with two feet one on gas other on brake this will overheat brakes. Car is new take it back to Dealer for check something may have been installed wrong. They should/will fix for free.Also suggest you read book that came with car so you understand what traction control is.

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