Auto Parts Brake Pad for Nissan System 1

Auto Parts Brake Pad for Nissan

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Auto Parts Brake Pad for Nissan

Q: So i‘ve been riding for about a year, and I‘ve put about 2K miles down, so I‘m very comfortable with riding.Now my girlfriend is about 5‘4 and about 100 pounds at mostI ride a 1994 Yamaha FZR streetfighter, stage 2 jet, mods etc.Now her area is full of blind and very sharp turns where i actually have to turn, backup and turn to complete it, like they are at a 140 degree turn.Now I‘m a little nervous, because she dosent have insurance.AND my dick roomate keeps saying how difficult it is.I would LOVE tips, concerns, and ideas on this question. How difficult is riding with a passenger? How much harder is turning going to be? Shes riddin on the back of other bikes, so shes not to nervous but I‘ve never given a ride before.Any help is great help, Thanks!: To start with, you do not have enough experience, to ride a passenger. You don't even have enough experience, to ride safely solo yet. Now, that being said. When you are riding with a passenger on the back, you have to account for the extra weight. Your low speed balance will be harder to control. You will accelerate slower, you will brake slower. Your tiers have only a limited amount of traction, added weight means you will have to corner slower. It will take more effort, to control the bike. The ride, will be a lot more ruff. Start with a short ride around the block, till you get the feel of her. Stay off those 140 turns and blind spot turns. Backing up with a passenger, is a pain in the a$$. Over all, if you remember to take it slow. A passenger is no big deal. Granted, I ride a big Harley. But at 100lbs, I'd have to reach back, to make sure she was still there. Now try riding with a 200+lbs passenger, now that's a challenge. But not a hard one.

Q: They‘re always jackknifing and sheet. Whats up with that? My 1989 BMW motorcycle has anti-lock brakes, but brand new semis go around rolling on top of Miatas for no reason. So, wtf is going on, mang?: All new trucks are now required to have anti lock brake systems. Some manufacturers have been installing them for several years but the reason they're still jackknifing is that the law only went into effect one year ago so there are still a lot of trucks out there without ABS.

Q: Recently my front brakes locked up on a motorcycle. I was told that the front brakes caliper needed to be replaced. The brakes stay closed and will not release. The fluid is correct. Is it better to replace the caliper or rebuild it? It is the kind of brakes with pads.: The caliper just needs a good clean out. Remove it from the wheel and spray with brake cleaner. The pistons are covered with crud and won't retract. And all brakes have pads or shoes.

Q: My motorcycles brakes is broken.What should I do?: Fix it by self or go to the repair shop

Q: I always brake with my engine. I rarely use my brakes unless I use the engine and the brakes at the same time. When I use the engine for braking, I pull out the clutch a little to graze the engine and that helps slow down. Is that bad? I don t pull the clutch all the way out, just enough to slow me down a little and then I go down some gears and release the lever and slowly come to a stop. The reason I m asking is because lately I ve been hearing a tinking noise when I down shift and use engine braking. It s like i have something on the engine and every full rotation of the engine I hear the clink. It only does this when down shifting and using engine braking. I have an 08 gs500f with 12k miles now.: engine braking when done right is perfectly fine. the reason for this is that the engine and gearbox are already spinning, using their mechanical properties to help you slow down is not going to decrease their life. BUT what you are doing is wrong. you are wearing down your clutch extremely quickly. your engine will be fine but your clutch won't be. to engine brake on a bike, downshift (and rev match) to raise the engine RPMs and minimize driveline shock. when done perfectly, you shouldn't feel much strain on the bike at all. then, with the clutch fully released begin to coast. the higher engine speeds will produce great compression and slow you down gradually. as your engine RPMs drop closer to idle, you may wish to downshift again to keep engine braking. you must be aware that the higher the RPMs the more effect your engine braking will have. BUT engine braking only works on the rear tire. if you don't rev match properly or manage your RPMs well, you could lock up your rear tire and that could cause a crash. if you can't rev match properly, practice it before you get aggressive with your engine braking. keep in mind that most bikes have pretty short gearing so you may need to downshift twice to get RPMs up to a point where engine braking is effective.

Q: Should I feel resistance? Does it take much to activate the breaks? I barely touch them and the brakes respond. Is this how it‘s suppose to work?: Yes, that's pretty much how they are supposed to work. There shouldn't be much lever more than 2 or 3 millimeters travel between first contact and full lock on the front brakes. Each bike is different, but every bike has a specification for free lever travel before brake activation starts. It will be in your owner's manual.

Q: Bike is an m50 and I like the feel of the disk brakes more. Would rather have two disk up front than one.: You could put the second rotor up front if you can find the matching mirror-image fork leg to attach it to. Someone may actually make that. If so, probably require a larger master cylinder and dual brake lines, then the additional caliper, etc. Replacing the drum with a disk probably ain't gonna happen.

Q: I previously posted a question about my front brakes squeaking but have since figured out that it is my rear brakes. Is this something I need to have checked out immediately? Are there things I can check?1983 Honda Magna V45: is it a disc brake? if so take out the pads and put a smear of copperslip on the back, that should sort it, if they are drum brakes take rthe shoes out and just take the leading edge off with a file, you dont need to talke off much, just give it a bit of an angle. cheers

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