• ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump System 1
  • ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump System 2
  • ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump System 3
ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

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$150.00 - 200.00 / set get latest price
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Shanghai
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TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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                        ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

1.Structure of ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of the ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

very easy to be installed and maintained

•Driven through flexible coupling

Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water PumpSpecification

 

Design

Performance and dimensions referring to BS EN733/DIN24255

Structure

Horizontal,Axial,End-Sution,Single-Stage,Single-Sution,Volute,Casing,Back,Pull-out, Centrifugal Pump

Flange

DIN2501(ISO7005.2/GB/T17241.6 PN1.6)Standard, ANSI B16.5 Class150lb optional)

Rotation

Clockwise viewing from the drive side

 

Casing

Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Impeller

Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Shaft

ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional

Shaft Seal

Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional

 

Flow rate

2-1100m3/h

Head

2-152m

Speed

1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz)

Working Pressure

1.6PMa or 2.0PMa

 

4.Picture of ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

 

 

Q:I got a water pump replaced a few month back, ( i own a 95 Honda civic) i have a wierd muffled rattle coming from that part of my car, i was told by a mechanic that it sounds like a bearing is dried out, he says that it wont affect the water pump itself but the ratlle will remain ... is this true . . .
A bearing is designed to move freely, if it becomes dry there is a very good chance that it will cause it to fail. If i was you i would get it changed as soon as possible because you don`t won`t to be broken down.
Q:I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Blue pump, usually found on the floor near the furnace (sometimes mounted where plenum meets the furnace frame) is a condensate pump. One of the products of combustion is water. This water is drained from the ventor motor (a motor which runs and sets a artificial draft inside the combustion chamber) to a drain nearby or a electric pump which then pumps the water over a longer distance to a remote drain. If the pump's discharge outlet gets plugged from dirt the result is usually the mess you see. Remove the cover plate of the pump housing, clean it out and run a wire with a small rag attached as a snake through the tube to drain. There is usually some type of float switch inside the pump housing so make sure it is free to move. Check for operation by pouring some tap water in it and move the float switch to on (up) One final note and this is very important. If the pump or tube to drain is filled up with a crud that resembles paste, call your local trusted HVAC tech for furnace service. This condition can be an early sign of heat exchanger failure and is a major safety concern for your family
Q:Was I supposed to lube the water pump or what. I really don't know what it could be making the noise now. But it goes away after about 5-25 seconds of running, what could it be?
It rather sounds like a starter situation except for the actuality it stalled, and the front belts are shifting. If the front belts are shifting then which potential the starter is effective and the crankshaft is popping. pondering there's no compression or some thing i might want to assert the automobile has significant engine damage. What it would want to be although I unquestionably do not recognize. each of the pistons popped off the rods? each of the rods snapped jointly? lol sorry i did not help, I unquestionably do not recognize rather.
Q:my friend has a 2008 Buick Lucerne V8 model. She said its over heating, and steaming from under the hood. the engine is also knocking. Could this be a water pump issue or something else?
Give me a minute UPS has just pulled up the drive with my repaired crystal ball, be right back.
Q:My friends car is a 1997 jeep wrangler. The belt broke and she took it in to get it replaced and they told her metal from the pully that broke got into the water pumpand they have to replace that to? WTF? it makes a squealing noise and they want to charge her another 300 for that! we just don't understand how that could be if the pump isn't even leaking?
Well like someone else has mentioned the squealing usually comes from the round pulley that the belt rides on maybe in your case some metal has damaged the idler puller on your water pump and that would definitely give you a consent squeal. the price to replace your water pump is very excessive the part at any over the counter parts store ranges from 30-45 dollars the labor too do this on a jeep is 2.2 hrs @ the shops hourly rate which also varies but 45-55 hour isn't unreasonable... so on the high side of these figures it should be about 120.00labor 45.00 parts so a bill of $165.00 would be more appropriate......but if you don't make the repairs knowing it still has a problem you might void any type of repair warranty on your current repairs already completed...hopefully this has helped you somewhat...jimboz
Q:Is the pump head related to the water level of the entrance and outlet? If the water level of the inlet and outlet is on the same level, but higher than the height of the pump, does the pump lift need to be coupled with this height difference?
Pump head refers to the inlet and outlet pressure head, that is to say, the entrance resistance greatly affects the pump lift, of course, this inlet resistance has a degree, too large water pump does not bring water or cause water pump cavitation. If the water level at the pump inlet is the same height, the inlet flow resistance of the pump may not be considered.
Q:Okay my well water pump keeps turning on and off, i can hear it click on and off. Then the water stops running completely! What is wrong with it?? It has been doing this since last night.
You have what is called a waterlogged pump system. As Gordon said, all in one sentence, most domestic water pump systems operate by using the water they pull up from the ground to compress the air that's already in the resevoir tank either in your basement or back room. The standard working pressure limits are 20 lbs. on/40 lbs. off, or 30 lbs. on/50 lbs. off. The water is pumped in until the air is compressed to 40 psi., then the pressure switch shuts it down. When you draw water off by turning on a tap somewhere in the home and it eventually gets down to 20 or 30 lbs, whichever your system is set on, the switch calls for more pressure and the pump kicks back on. In older resevoir systems where air and water met, under pressure, eventually the air is absorbed by the pressure until there's no room left for air to be pressurized and the pump tank becomes waterlogged. If you have what is called a bladder tank, there is supposed to be a rubber film stretched across the tank somewhere near the middle to keep the air and the water separated, If that bladder bursts for whatever reason, eventually, you wind up with a more expensive older style water resevoir tank. You can repressurize these tanks, by turning off the electricity to the pump and turning on the house taps. Let them run a good long time, then shut them off, put some air back in the tank via the fixture on top, close everything back up and turn on the system. Let it prime itself and pressurize itself, it should be close to being right, if not right on. Or you can have a new tank installed.
Q:hooking up a water pump to my tank and need a power supply
whrere does red wire go and where does brown wire go
Q:Okay, I have a 1982 Suzuki Dt8 that someone gave me. But it will not pump water well, when you reve it it will have a little watter shoot out the water outlit, but heres the thing. if you take the cover off be the shift linkage and run the engin it will pump water through just fine
I've passed on answering your question a couple times, mainly because I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. So let me ask. In the water does the engine overheat? I'm not sure that what you are looking at isn't the relief hole and not the water discharge, which should be under water. How are you supplying water to your engine? Are you running in a barrel? The water pump should be replaced every 2-3 years, so unless you are going to do it yourself, take it to a shop and explain what you are observing. Taking the cowling off will have no effect on the water pump, so I'm guessing you are looking at the wrong place. P.S. This was a common error with Evinrude small motors back in the 70's and 80's, motors similar to yours. The exhaust fin was just behind the propeller. not higher up the leg
Q:In 2005, the water pump, export pressure in recent years decreased year by year, the running current is increasing, there are 4 pumps are like this. Professional personnel advice please!
The reasons are as follows:(1) motor guide bearing wear, water pump rubber bearing wear, sealing ring wearMotor or water pump bearings wear, will make the submersible pump in the machine on the wrong state of work, serious damage to submersible pumps, stator windings burned. The method is to repair or replace damaged bearings and bushings.(2) thrust bearing wear, submerged pump impeller and lower cover wearThis situation will also make the submersible pump on the machine in an abnormal state of work, serious damage to the submersible pump. The treatment method is to check the cause of the wear of the thrust bearing. Whether the mechanical seal of the shaft extension is damaged or not, which causes sand particles and impurities to enter the inner cavity of the motor, causes excessive wear of the thrust bearing. If it is caused by the mechanical seal of the submersible pump, the replacement of the thrust bearing, thrust plate and impeller, lower cover plate and other parts shall be replaced by mechanical seals at the shaft extension end.(3) the flow of the submersible pump is too large or too smallThe use of submersible pumps flow beyond the scope of use will make the motor overload of centrifugal pump or mixed flow pump, excessive flow, the pump shaft power increases, the motor overload; for the axial flow pump, the flow is too small, the pump shaft power increases, the motor overload. The treatment method is to adjust the valve properly, reduce the flow rate of the centrifugal pump or the mixed flow pump (increase the axial flow pump), and make the flow of the pump in the normal range of use.(4) the shaft of the submersible pump is bent and the bearings are not concentricThis is a serious case of submersible pumps, should be immediately overhauled, straighten the bent shaft, replace the unqualified bearings, re assembled submersible pumps.

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