Cast Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Specification
Usage:
Water
Name:
Cast steel centrifugal pump high pressure
Pressure:
High Pressure
Standard or Nonstandard:
Standard
Material:
Cast steel
Company Introduction
My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.
The company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.
The company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.
Product specification
1, petroleum and chemical industry
2, the oil industry
3, synthetic fiber industry
4, textile printing and dyeing industry
5, plastic and rubber industry
6, papermaking industry
7, wood industry
8, building industry
Features
1. Hydraulic design with wide flow-path non-clogged structure ,allowed fibres(3 times
length of inlet diameter),particles(30% size of inlet diameter )
2. Excellent design,high efficiency and energy saving .
3. Double mechnical seals in series,made of hard alloy corrosive proof silicon
carbide,which is durable and .wearable ,that enable pump safely operation for more
than 8000 hours continous.
4. Compact structure, small volume, easy moved and conveniently mounted , no need build
pump house, greatly reduct the cost.
pump superiority
High efficiency
Reasonable design
Reliable operation
Long in service time
Easy maintenance
Low running cost
Pictures show
Transportation
- Q: I just noticed a slight leak from my water pump. About the size of my fist. I called one mechanic and was told the 2001 BMW Z3's water pump seals are tight and do not leak with the car is running (engine is hot) but once the car cools the water pump seals expand resulting in the small leak, that I shouldn't worry about it unless it leaks more, the engine over-heats, or dash light turns on. The BMW said I should have the water pump replaced but he may have just said that to make a repair sale. Anyone out there know the truth?
- Some seepage through the bearing seal is normal for new pumps. I've never had it happen to me, but that is what I read in the information sheet that the pump came with. If it's leaking out of the gasket area, then you will need to put on a new seal. If the new seal doesn't have anything on it to help the gasket seal such a Felpro's printoseal, use RTV sealant on it and allow it to cure before driving. It is sticky and messy, but it works great.
- Q: I have never had to deal with this and I am probably worrying about nothing but every time I run water, even for a second, the pump starts clicking on and off. Is it supposed to do it with every little thing? Every time the toilet flushes, or the water gets turned on to wash hands it goes off and keeps constantly going off until the water is shut off. Is this what it's supposed to do?
- Jadee is correct. Your pump is waterlogged. This is a condition where all the compressable air has mixed with the water in the tank and the tank is full of water clear to the top, not allowing for any compression, which is where you get the pressure to push the water out when you open a fixture. When you open a fixture, regardless of which one, the pump senses a drop in pressure immediately and starts up. As soon as you close the fixture, the pump, which is now pumping water into the tank, senses the pressure coming quickly to where it needs to be and shuts off. There needs to be air in the top of the tank to compress in order for the system to function. If you have a bladder tank, (usually a green or blue tank with an indented seam around the middle of it), then most likely the bladder that's in the middle of the tank to keep the air and water apart so they don't mix, has ruptured and is now allowing the very thing to happen that it was designed to stop. You can drain the system of pressure and most of the water by turning off the pump and repressurizing the tank thru the air nozzle on top or the top side. Open a couple fixtures and allow the water to escape as you put pressure into the tank, until you get air and the water quits. Then turn off the fixtures, turn the pump back on and let it pump up. That will give you an air cushion on top of the tank and will let you use the system till you can decide whether you want to replace the tank or just use it as a convential resevoir system of old, (before bladder tanks). The procedure to restore the system to functionality is the same if it's an older tank without a bladder, only you may have a drain spigot on that type of a tank that will allow for gravity drainage of the water, instead of pressurization. It's not an uncommon occurance for those of us on older wells that don't have bladder tanks. We have to drain and restart ours about once every year or two, depending on how much time the grandkids spend here.
- Q: Ok, here's my problem. My parents bought this house a few years ago. No problems at first, but then during Hurricane Katrina, the basement started to flood from the heavy rains. Now whenever it rains, it floods. We have a half bath down there and the water would drain out in the shower drain. Now no water drains out, and we've already check the drain for clogs. It's clear. We currently have to bucket the water out.I'm looking for a good water pump to get them before I move out. I'm not sure if it has a sump pit or anything.We don't particularly care if we have to pump it out through a window or anything, as we have a pasture next to us. I just need something that could pump out the water when it rains. Preferably something not too expensive but that will still get the job done.Note: This is in Louisiana; lord knows what compelled the people who built this house to build a basement.Any suggestions/advice are much appreciated.
- Look okorder /
- Q: how do i take water pump off took all hoses and bolts i think off dont know whats holdin it on how many bolt hold it on i know the seal can hold it on ther but it wont budge even when i use block of wood and tap with hammer
- If you haven't figured it out already, it's best to remove the plastic shield around the fan first. Then remove the declutching fan from the water-pump. If you skip this step, when the water-pump does come loose the fan blades will blast right into the radiator. There are only four bolts holding the water-pump to the engine block. When the declutching fan is off you can use a dead-blow hammer on-top of the water-pump drive spindle with the other hand underneath the water-pump snout to prevent from hitting the radiator core. If your not riding around by now it's because you'r having trouble figuring out where all the crap is in Roberts Rules Of Order.
- Q: Water pump. A drip on the edge of the pump or drip on the ground. Serious concern on which one?
- any water pump leak can be fatal to an engine, replace asap
- Q: 2000 3.3L engine. I understand,depending on engine year, it can be a very difficult job. Is this the one or is it much more difficult on the 3.0 L ? One involves timing belt ? Help ? Thanks' Ken
- If there are not any obvious leaks, the 1st factor to envision may be the Radiator/coolant reservoir cap for a lacking gasket or o-ring based at this variety of cap, and if ok, do a tension attempt to work out if the cap is preserving tension. in the journey that your engine has a bleed screw, you ought to use compressed air source (and regulator, if mandatory) to pressurize the engine to particularly below the cap score and than seem for leaks. If none chanced on, a compression examine will point out a a probability blown head gasket.
- Q: I would like information to use an automotive water pump to ( or possibly another device ) to pump water approximately 60 feet (20 meters) elevation from creek without electricity. I only need enough water for 25 chickens. So we are not talking about a households supply of water.
- a car water pump is run off a belt like your alternator etc so you would really be able to use its not a pump that u can just stick anywhere. if it is only to feed 25 chooks then it wouldnt hurt to just fetch them a bucket of water of every morning that would do.
- Q: i have a water leak near the water pump in my 1990 cadillac deville i replaced the water pump but it was remanufactured and a pipe on the back of the water pump can it be a heater core or should i buy a brand new one p.s. water leaks after it passes the radiator
- this is why I do not buy remanufactured pumps, it is best to buy a new water pump if you can, it will last the lifetime of the car pretty much, remanufactured for what ever reason the water pumps just did not do the job, and I know my mechanic got tired of putting one on, only to have to take it off because it leaked, make sure the water pump is the problem though.
- Q: Every time i turn off the engine i hear like liquid noises behind the dash board in the drivers side. My fan isnt working properly but i just took a trip...4 hours away.. on the highway the temperature would be fine but on regular streets my temperature goes high pretty fast..i have been putting anti freeze pretty often lately because it goes low but there is no signs of a leak anywhere. Could it just be that my fan isnt working properly or is it because the water pump is going bad? or both? I have a 93 Toyota celica
- Not it's because you have a cracked cylinder head. Does the exhaust spew out a lot of white smoke? Edit: Having a blown head gasket does not explain the missing coolant. If you had a misfire or the engine was struggling a little then yes the head gasket would explain that. If you've never seen white smoke from the exhaust or under the hood, then I would say it is because the fan is not working properly. The gurgling that you hear is the boiling water going from the radiator to the reservoir tank. It is probably overfilling the reservoir tank and evaporating as well.
- Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
- Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.
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Cast Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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