Brake Pads for Mercedes Benz Sprinter Platform

Brake Pads for Mercedes Benz Sprinter Platform

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:WVA29125

Certification:TS16949

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Rear

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Box, Carton, Pallet

Standard:TS16949, ISO

Origin:Qingdao

HS Code:87083010

Production Capacity:10000sets/ Per Month

Product Description

Fh12 Fh16 FM9 FM12 Fl6 Brake Pads WVA29125 for Volvo
1). Material: Semimetal, ceramics, asbestos free
2). Delivery time: 15-25 days
3). Stable coefficient friction
4). Less noise, no dust
5). Pass ISO and TS16949 certificate
6). Small wear rate and dual wear
7). Good performance of heat
8). MOQ: 100 sets
9). Packing: Box+carton+pallet

Brake Pads for Mercedes Benz Sprinter Platform

Q: looking for a motorcycle to begin riding.: All the Shadows are excellent machines. I have a 600cc Shadow VLX that I bought new in 95

Q: I am still a new rider so I am getting use to all the techniques. Lets say I am on the highway and need to slow a little as there is traffic coming up. I know that I would downshift to engine brake. Lets say im entering a turn and need to slow but not stop.just slow down. They taught me in my MSF traning to use both brakes( but dont hold in the clutch) when entering a turn and then roll on the throttle. Is this right? So to slow in any instance, esp a turn I would use both brakes or maybe just the rear ( i heard its better than using the front) to just slow down? If lets say I am in first or 2nd gear already?: You can most definitely use the brake without using the clutch. Just be sure to keep an eye on your engine RPM so it dies not go too low. You do not necessarily need to keep your eyes fixated on the tachometer. Your eyes should be on the road, not the tachometer. Listen to your engine and it will tell you what to do. If the engine sounds like it is lugging and vibrating because it is going too slow then use your clutch and maybe a lower gear depending on the situation. My bike is a Cruiser style bike. Many Cruiser style bikes will not have a tachometer. You learn to listen to the engine. One last thing. Be cautious when changing gears in a turn. If the difference between engine speed and wheel speed is too great it can cause the rear tire to lose traction. You were taught correctly, you use both brakes and no clutch.

Q: I‘m new to ridding and have only owned a motorcycle for over a month now and been using a combination of engine braking and normal braking. I feel more comfortable normal braking and just dropping a gear or 2 if i suddenly need to pick up speed. But what is mechanically better for a motorcycle engine braking or regular braking? Which is better in the long run? Is it bad for the engine? because I would rather just buy brake pads more often if that‘s the case.P.S. The topic is about riding an engine that is already way past the break in point.: if you maintain the bike properly.oil changes etc bike will last 100,000 miles more for a bigger bike the correct way to slow down is to change gears down as you slow using the engine the brakes in unison that way you are always in the correct gear for the speed your doing if this wears the brake pads. or the clutch plates. or the engine a little more than just grabbing clutch brake changing down multiple gears to guess what the engine revs speed should be big Farking deal. you may even get an extra 5,000 miles out of the engine but getting it wrong once could cost you a lot more people been riding bikes for a lot of years they say change down use engine braking your front rear brakes Im guessing they know what there talking about on the point of braking. in an emergency stop. the front brake is the only one that will stop you in a hurry. I practice stopping using only the front brake. I can just about stand the bike on the front wheel if the rear wheel isn't touching the ground much engine braking rear brake ain't going to help stop

Q: the motorcycle will not decrease speed by gentle application of brakes, I have to floor the rear brakes and grab the front brake calliper.is there something wrong with my brakes?: I agree that Philip's down home wisdom is astounding, but Choppy made a very good point. Some older bikes needed an Arnold Swartzenegger type grip to stop. An older bike with a single front disc is going to need more grip than a double disc and an older, single piston double disc will most likely need more than a modern, multi-piston double disc setup. Sometimes brake shoes or pads will become glazed, especially when they have been used lightly for long periods of time. Once glazed, it takes tremendous pressure to get them to stop. The best thing to do is to remove them and use sandpaper to rough them up for better grip. there's also a big difference between pad material, especially in wet conditions. I've had pads that worked great when dry but in wet weather I could have dragged my feet and gotten stopped sooner. Old Honda front disc setups had the caliper mounted on a hinged affair that needed to be adjusted correctly. Old hoses on disc brakes get spongy with age and no amount of bleeding will firm them up. If you can mash the brake lever against the handgrip, you either have air in the system or the hoses should be replaced. On rear drum brakes, the problem can be as simple as the rod between the lever and brake needing adjustment. On rear disc setups, you may need to adjust the lever to that it sets higher and you don't have to bend your foot downward so far. Hose swelling on rear discs usually isn't as big of a deal because you normally have much less hose length compared to the front. Can you lock up your rear brake? If not, then you certainly do have a problem.

Q: I need to install a mechanical NOT a hydraulic brake switch onto my motorcycle. The bike is a 1978 Suzuki DR 370 enduro. The tail light bulb contains 2 filaments but I only get 2 wires coming out of the back of the tail light. I was told one wire for each filament and it grounds itself. hence why I‘m not seeing 4 wires. Anyway the main problem I am having is I‘m not able to find any mechanical brake switches to rig up to it. I keep finding hydraulic ones which I can‘t use. Been to numerous shops and researched online to no avail. I don‘t mind modifying an aftermarket switch if need be, because finding stock parts seems impossible and expensive anyway. I‘m sure ill figure out how to wire it in when I get a switch that will work but if anyone could tell me how that would be great too.: Get a switch from a cycle salvage or from any bike using rear cable drum brakes. Sometimes they go cheap and dont put the third wire in the taillight receptacle, even though you need it for a brakelight. Can you use a HYD switch on the front?

Q: I bough a used bike and after learning all the various necessary checks, realized that the dealer left the brake fluid at the low fill lines. I want to top up and got the recommended fluid for my Triumph Speedmaster (DOT 4). But I have no idea what brand is in there. I have to assume it is also the recommended DOT 4. Would it be safe to top up? Also, are you supposed to discard what‘s left in the bottle after a top-up?: Always use the recommended fluid. It will be marked on the cap of the reservoir. Different brands is not an issue, has never caused me a problem with car, truck, or motorcycle. Just use a sealed bottle, not an open partial. Brake fluid tends to absorb water - which you do NOT want in your lines. Discard, or dispose. Or, if the bottle is an appropriate size, you could do a full change with minimal leftovers. Now, a side-thought. Dealer.dealers should be making sure everything is in spec before sending it out the door. Just make sure you're checking it right before you go spending and working. If the bars or the controls have been moved, the level lines on the front reservoir will have moved as well (common on used bikes). Another thing that will show low level is pad wear. It is possible that the pads are worn, yet still sufficient. If this is the case, any fluid added will be excess when you change pads.

Q: The motorcycle discs are heavy and the brakes are not good: Change the brake line, brake pads just fine

Q: left side lower ribcage is swollen and bruised and yes it hurts bad. I laid my motorcycle down trying to make a corner too fast.: You most likely broke a rib, if you go to the hospital they will xray and verify and give you pain meds but there is nothing they can do to help it heal -- no bandages or braces as you need to breathe and wrapping it would constrict that. Because xrays see through your entire chest cavity and you have ribs on both sides sometimes they won't find the break as it gets lost in the jumble of tissue and ask you to take xrays again for a better look. A hard knot of muscle will form around the break to help isolate and immobilize the break so the bones can begin fusing and healing. You need to stay off of your bike during this or you will prolong the process. Take calcium supplements to aid in bone production in case you are deficient. I'm not a Dr. but I play one on the internet

Q: I PUT A SET OF FRONT BRAKES ON MY MOTORCYCLE, IS IT NORMAL FOR THEM TO WHINE WHEN STOPPING?: sometimes i don't think it's bad did you get any of that stuff that makes them not do that? i forgot what it's called it's a little packet you put on the brakes before putting them on haa

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