Ceramic Brake Pads Duralast
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
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OKorder Financial Service
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Product Discription:
OKorder is offering high quality Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads at great prices with worldwide shipping. Our brake pads are available in a wide range of styles and materials, and are guaranteed with a full warranty. Our supplier is a world-class manufacturer of brake pads, and our products are utilized the world over, with OKorder annually supplying a full range of products to European, North American and Asian markets.
Product Applications:
Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads are use in many transport, construction, and agricultural applications. Our brake pads are suitable for trucks, transport vehicles, construction equipment and other heavy-duty vehicles.
Product Advantages:
OKorder's Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads are available in a range of styles and applications. Our supplier has over 15 years of production experience and offers 1,800 different brake pad models. Our R&D department is able to develop 10 new items per month; we are currently supplying heavy-duty applications for trucks, buses and engineering vehicles.
Main Product Features:
· Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon Fiber
· OEM services available
· 30,000km - 60,000km Guarantee
· Full Warranty
· Shimmed, chamfered and slotted OE Designs
· Positive mold
· Ultra-quiet, low dusting
· Rubberized multi-layer shims
· Responsive braking and longer pad life
· Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires
· QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified
Product Specifications:
Crossing Reference Number | Application | ||||
FMSI | D1203-8323 | FERODO | FDB1313 | Scania
Benz
Man
Iveco
DAF | |
WVA | 29087 | WVA | 29059 | ||
WVA | 29106 | WVA | 29105 | ||
WVA | 29062 | WVA | 29061 | ||
WVA | 29060 | WVA | 29046 | ||
WVA | 29045 | WVA | 29042 | ||
WVA | 29202 | WVA | 29201 | ||
WVA | 29179 | WVA | 29163 | ||
WVA | 29109 | WVA | 29108 | ||
O.E.M. | 0034201620 | O.E.M. | 0024204920 | ||
O.E.M. | 082135100 | O.E.M. | 0044202220 | ||
O.E.M. | 2992348 | O.E.M. | 1439324 | ||
Position: Front Axle
PAGID: C1004
VALEO: 541679
WVA: 29108/29109/29163
FMSI: D1203-8323
FERODO: FDB1313
Rate: EE&FF
Test: Link & Greening
FAQ:
Q1: Why buy Materials & Equipment from OKorder.com?
A1: All products offered by OKorder.com are carefully selected from China's most reliable manufacturing enterprises. Through its ISO certifications, OKorder.com adheres to the highest standards and a commitment to supply chain safety and customer satisfaction.
Q2: How do we guarantee the quality of our products?
A2: We have established an advanced quality management system which conducts strict quality tests at every step, from raw materials to the final product. At the same time, we provide extensive follow-up service assurances as required.
Q3: Are all brake rotors the same?
A3: Premium rotors deliver less noise, longer life and more consistent safe braking. In independent testing by a major name in brakes using identical disc brake pads and both a premium rotor and an economy rotor design, the data consistently proved that the economy rotor takes the brake system below manufacturer specifications during critical testing. The research showed that using their premium rotors reduced noise by 50%, extended pad life by 25% and allowed the vehicle to stop sooner! The economy-tested vehicles had 20% less stopping ability than the premium-tested vehicles. A 20% decrease in stopping power can convert to over 6m in real life.
Images:
- Q: So I‘m thinking of buying this to practice on as I will be a new rider very soon ( and $1000 seems like a really low price for what I‘ve found). It‘s running good and only has 11,000 miles on it. The owner posted that it‘s a 2007 Lifan 250cc. So I tried looking up the specs to get some info on the bike but I couldn‘t seem to find anything So I‘m hoping that one of you guys can help me out and post a link to a website with details on it. Thanks in advance!
- It's a Qianjiang motorcycle, made in China. I think $1000 is a bit high for a bike that cost $2000, 7 years ago. I would make a lower offer. Model 250F Lifan Features: ?ENGINE: Air-cooled , V Twin Cylinder, Four Stroke ?Displacement: 248 CC ?TDI Ignition ?Max. Power: 18.5 HP/ 8000 RPM ?Cruise Speed 85 MPH ?Max. Torque : 17.5N.m/6000RPM ?Electric Start ?BRAKE SYSTEM Front: Disk Rear: Drum ?TRANSMISSION: 5-Speed Manual shift ?TIRES Front: 3.0-18 Rear:5.0-15 ?SUSPENSION Front: Hydraulic telescoping forks Rear: Hydraulic Spring ?FUEL: Unleaded gasoline ?Fuel consumption: 100 MPG Max. Load: 330 lb Dry Weight : 355 lb.
- Q: Excuse me if im wrong, but from my previous studies in physics and riding a bicycle(since i am only 15), applying front brakes may provide some efficiency in stop the object faster but in reality its very dangerous as the motorcycle could lock up and flip over, thus leaving you in a bad situation. Why not just use the rear brake all the time? It seems much more naturale oui?
- Because at speed, the front brakes being applied compress' the front forks (giving leverage to the front wheel) whilst lifting the rear. Sort of digging into the road. This gives more pressure and grip to the front wheel. Along with two big rotors and two calipers on the front wheel gives it more stopping power. Brakes should always be applied smoothly and the more pressure you apply, the tighter the brakes will be. If you grab the front brake, you will either A- lock the wheel causing the front wheel to lose traction and take a spill or B- lock the wheel while maintaining traction, and flip the bike over the handlebars. This applies to the rear wheel as well. Obviously you won't fly backwards but you will lose traction, potentially causing a fish tale and crash. Generally when I'm coming to a stop. I apply a bit of rear brake ( again, giving leverage to the front) then apply the front until the stop is complete. There are infinite scenarios on which brake to use and when, but that's the absolute basics of it.
- Q: I have a suzuki gs500f with only 430 miles on it, its brand new but I was noticing a weird problem with the front brake fluid reservoir: it isnt always consistent. Like tongiht I went out and could barely see the brake fluid yet at other times the fluid seems like its half full...what could be causing this and should i have it looked at?
- The correct answer for a USED bike would be to check a service manual. Brake fluid expands with heat. Disc brake calipers get really hot, hence, rise and fall of fluid level. The correct answer for a NEW bike is to take it back to the dealer and make him answer your question.
- Q: I can not buy half a year after the brake wheeled rear wheel (after a round of rotation once, I think), many times to the maintenance station to check the maintenance and replacement of the rear three bearings, the problem is temporarily resolved. Three days after the emergence of the above situation, once again to the maintenance station maintenance, after debugging, the situation some improved (Pine brake, but not brake car, after several debugging without cure). The staff said that there may be the locomotive rear wheel drum is not round to the (why did not the initial ring?), The problem is not resolved. I feel my car rear wheel is this: the brake tightened, and can be in the 30 yards a meter brake car, rear wheel, but do not go when the empty push do not go, the rear does not turn, like in the brakes. Brakes loose, in addition to 4 meters brake car, the other situation is tight and tight situation is the opposite, I do not know what is the reason? Please brothers urged, I would like to thank you!
- Replacement of the brake pads on the ok!
- Q: Many new motorcycles use a belt rather than a chain to transfer the power from the transmission to the rear wheel. For my senior project my team is building an engine dynamometer and we are considering using a motorcycle drive belt and pulleys set up to connect the engine to the brake. I am wondering what the highest power these types of belts can handle. Thank you in advance.
- You need to be worried about torque, not horsepower. The bigger the rollers the more torque the belt drive is going to see. Also, in 1st gear a 200ft/lb engine might be putting down 1000ft/lbs to the rollers with a 0.5 trans ratio and a 3:1 dif. A belt from a powerful motorcycle would probably work, a belt from a supercharger might work. Check out Mcmaster Carr for chains, sprockets, belts, and pulleys. A v-belt or chain will be easiest since they don't require tension. You can run two or more smaller belts as well, this is very effective.
- Q: I do not have a motorcycle license yet, but I plan on taking the safety course this summer. My dream bike is the Kawasaki Ninja 650 ABS, but I know its a terrible idea to start out on a 650cc. The drivers school that I plan on going through lends you a 125cc while you are in class, but going from a 125 to a 650 is suicide especially since I wouldn‘t consider trainers school actual road experience. My mom has a 2004 Kawasaki Ninja 500r and I think she might let me ride it if I go through drivers school, but she still will probably tell me to ride a 250 first. I checked Craigslist for a CBR250r Honda and the cheapest I could find one for was $3,200. I can‘t see myself purchasing a trainers bike for that much money especially since I do not have very good sales experience and probably would not be able to sell it back for much. What are my options as far as working my way up to a 650. I would consider purchasing a 300 ABS but I‘m too worried about investing in a bike that might not be my dream bike.
- You didn't say where you live. In some places (UK) you have to start small and work up. In other places (US) you can start as big as you like. I know they use 125s and 250s for training, but partly that's because they're cheaper to maintain and operate and also partly because in training you do all of your riding in an empty paved lot at 10 mph and big bikes are just clumsy at that speed. If you never rode on the street, only in parking lots, and never above 10-15 mph, a 125 would be all the bike you'd ever need. If you plan to ride on the street, but never on the highway, never above 50 mph, then you'd never need anything bigger than a 250. If you plan on going on the Interstate more than a couple of miles at a time, 500cc is the minimum and 650cc would be better. Personally, I don't think a 500 or 650 is too big to learn on. It's quite a bit bigger and heavier than a 125, but not that much bigger than a 250. Maybe 50 lbs. That's not as much as it sounds like. I know lots of people who learned to ride on 650s, in fact some 650s (like most 250s marketed in the US) are designed as trainers, as 'entry level' motorcycles. The Ninja 650 is not an especially hard bike to learn on. I think this is just one reason it's so popular! Almost any viable, rideable, reliable motorcycle is going to cost you at least $3k. Anything cheaper than that is probably someone's 'project' that's been sitting in the garage for 5 years and they just want to get rid of it. If it runs at all, one thing after another will probably go wrong with it and it will just break your heart. Also I'm not convinced of the advantages of ABS. It makes a bike more complicated, taking wheels off, changing tires, changing sprockets or chains all become a lot more complicated.
- Q: OK, so I have been DYING to get a motorcycle (sick of riding on the back of my boyfriends haha) However, I have no experience. My boyfriend told me there‘s a beginner program to get you used to the motorcycle before taking the actual course to get your license. But after talking to a few others, they say its a waste of money because the course itself is easy.I‘m not sure if I should just spend the extra 100 to feel comfortable with the bike or go by what everyone else is saying. Any help is greatly appreciated along with any advice. I‘m nervous yet so excited. Thanks in advance for your help!
- Large MC drive belts should handle 100 HP and higher.Go to manufacturors specs.
- Q: I have a 78 CB125 that uses a cable actuated disc. I‘m putting on new bars and levers--doing some rewiring of the bike as well. The switch is basic and plugs in the lever right behind the cable. What are my options for preserving this feature? Is there an inline cable operated switch I could use, or are there aftermarket levers that have this feature built in?
- Keep the lever perch with the switch and change the lever only.
- Q: Will the motorcycle does not move, the oil supply system is normal, the circuit is normal, that is, how is the matter, seeking expert solution
- Hanging second gear to try to try not cheat
- Q: Like.lets say you are on a sportbike and riding at 70 m.p.h. an you have to brake and slow down all of a sudden on the freeway. What do you do, step by step? like lets say you are in 4th gear. What do you do?
- if it pulls when you hit the brakes then you have a caliper hanging up on 1 side.
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Ceramic Brake Pads Duralast
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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