Ceramic Brake Pads Duralast
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
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Product Discription:
OKorder is offering high quality Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads at great prices with worldwide shipping. Our brake pads are available in a wide range of styles and materials, and are guaranteed with a full warranty. Our supplier is a world-class manufacturer of brake pads, and our products are utilized the world over, with OKorder annually supplying a full range of products to European, North American and Asian markets.
Product Applications:
Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads are use in many transport, construction, and agricultural applications. Our brake pads are suitable for trucks, transport vehicles, construction equipment and other heavy-duty vehicles.
Product Advantages:
OKorder's Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads are available in a range of styles and applications. Our supplier has over 15 years of production experience and offers 1,800 different brake pad models. Our R&D department is able to develop 10 new items per month; we are currently supplying heavy-duty applications for trucks, buses and engineering vehicles.
Main Product Features:
· Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon Fiber
· OEM services available
· 30,000km - 60,000km Guarantee
· Full Warranty
· Shimmed, chamfered and slotted OE Designs
· Positive mold
· Ultra-quiet, low dusting
· Rubberized multi-layer shims
· Responsive braking and longer pad life
· Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires
· QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified
Product Specifications:
Crossing Reference Number | Application | ||||
FMSI | D1203-8323 | FERODO | FDB1313 | Scania
Benz
Man
Iveco
DAF | |
WVA | 29087 | WVA | 29059 | ||
WVA | 29106 | WVA | 29105 | ||
WVA | 29062 | WVA | 29061 | ||
WVA | 29060 | WVA | 29046 | ||
WVA | 29045 | WVA | 29042 | ||
WVA | 29202 | WVA | 29201 | ||
WVA | 29179 | WVA | 29163 | ||
WVA | 29109 | WVA | 29108 | ||
O.E.M. | 0034201620 | O.E.M. | 0024204920 | ||
O.E.M. | 082135100 | O.E.M. | 0044202220 | ||
O.E.M. | 2992348 | O.E.M. | 1439324 | ||
Position: Front Axle
PAGID: C1004
VALEO: 541679
WVA: 29108/29109/29163
FMSI: D1203-8323
FERODO: FDB1313
Rate: EE&FF
Test: Link & Greening
FAQ:
Q1: Why buy Materials & Equipment from OKorder.com?
A1: All products offered by OKorder.com are carefully selected from China's most reliable manufacturing enterprises. Through its ISO certifications, OKorder.com adheres to the highest standards and a commitment to supply chain safety and customer satisfaction.
Q2: How do we guarantee the quality of our products?
A2: We have established an advanced quality management system which conducts strict quality tests at every step, from raw materials to the final product. At the same time, we provide extensive follow-up service assurances as required.
Q3: Are all brake rotors the same?
A3: Premium rotors deliver less noise, longer life and more consistent safe braking. In independent testing by a major name in brakes using identical disc brake pads and both a premium rotor and an economy rotor design, the data consistently proved that the economy rotor takes the brake system below manufacturer specifications during critical testing. The research showed that using their premium rotors reduced noise by 50%, extended pad life by 25% and allowed the vehicle to stop sooner! The economy-tested vehicles had 20% less stopping ability than the premium-tested vehicles. A 20% decrease in stopping power can convert to over 6m in real life.
Images:
- Q: My front brakes were making a squeaking noise on and off on my motorcycle so I changed the front brake pads (in which they needed to be changed bc the pads were shiny)... and now they squeak and squeal even worse! High pitch noise. And I don't even have to be pressing on the brakes for them to squeal, I can hear it going 45 mph! What's going on here? Btw the rotor is smooth/no ridges. Best answer, 10 pts! Thanks
- You should always lube the bearing surfaces of the caliper when you change the brake pads on any vehicle - motorcycles, cars, trucks, etc. The bearing surface on most motorcycle brakes is the two pins that run through the caliper and pads. You can use specially formulated stuff if you like, but they get moly grease from the factory and that's what is generally recommended. Just a thin coating and rub it around with your finger. You can get a normal person's lifetime supply can from OReilly for $5. Make sure it's moly grease, and not white lithium or some other type. It will be black and have an odd odor. Other than that, some pads come with a coating on them that has to be worn off and will squeak for the first few uses. Especially budget ones made out of cheaper compounds. I always spend the extra money for EBC on my bikes and Wagner on my trucks.
- Q: So I‘m taking a couple of private lessons before i take the MSF, I‘m having trouble stopping the bike smoothly from 2nd gear. The instructor told me to brake first and then clutch + downshift, Is it possible to just brake and clutch, then downshift after I‘m stopped?
- This Site Might Help You. RE: do you have to use flux when soldering copper pipes?
- Q: how to remove a motor from a 2005 z-10 kawasaki motorcycle ?
- 1/. undo every nut and bolt you can find and eventually it will fall to bits. 2/. buy the workshop manual. 3. Ask if your local Tek college do courses. 4/. go to www.carlsalter.cm and down load a manual,free. A Little tip for you. I bought a none runner ?5 paid for it, was a while ago, like 50 years, really, pushed it 3 miles home, ka nak ed, and having absolutely no idea where to start, simply kept undoing things until it was in bits, spread over the workshop floor. Spread out so i would know what came from where. Dad decided I was taking up too much room and put al the bits into boxes! Stripped every thing except the spoked wheels, and eventually finished the rebuild/replacements and tried to fire it up. Two stroke, no idea how to time it, asked my Dad, he did it fired it up, snicked it into gear and shot of backwards up the yard! Oops, timed wrong. Sorted that and off I went. Road it to college 10 miles every night for 3 years, through thick snow each winter, 1960's. Cost me fiver to buy it, ?30 to re-bore, build, paint it, and it never let me down. I had no previous, no manual, just a note pad and some tools. Sold it for ?30 and bought a B31 350cc, in a similar state and id the same to that. Next worked 2 jobs saved up bought a new Norton 650ss, awesome.Now on G S's for (too) many years and still do all of my own servicing etc. Don't do tyre swaps any more hard job with modern tyres. So, if i can do it so can you, so just surprise your self and go for it bro.
- Q: And never hit the car infront but fell due to trying to brake what can the person riding the motorcycle do now ?? also what can the driver of the car expect from this ??Driver was cited with a unsafe lane change ticket *** Motorcycle driver had road rash and a broken ankle I believe
- Probably not much. Since there was no contact with the car, the crash damage was mostly the result of the rider of the motorcycle not being able to keep his bike upright during an emergency braking maneuver. That's called failure to control and often results in a ticket, regardless of the situation. Also, the vehicle in the rear of a two car accident usually is at fault for not giving enough room to stop. It's called tailgating and is illegal because it's dangerous. You aren't clear as to which driver got the ticket - the motorcycle rider or the car driver. If the car driver got the ticket, I would make a claim on their insurance ans see what happens. If the motorcycle driver (they are usually called riders) got the ticket, there is no hope for a claim on the car's insurance. I'm guessing since one person already got a citation, there will be no more citations in this case. The officer has already made their decision as to who was at fault.
- Q: In order to brake on a motorcycle, should you have the clutch pulled in? Or is it okay to start braking while slowly closing the throttle and not using the clutch?I dont need to know anything else about stopping power, front/rear brake, emergency stopping, etc. Just want to know if I need to fully disengage the clutch before braking or not.
- I will keep it simple just like you asked. If you are slowing down, you can take off a little speed by just rolling off the throttle and using a little brake if you need it. When you let the revs drop too low, or come to a complete stop the clutch is needed. There's a bunch of variations described nicely by other answers, but this is the short version.
- Q: a motorcycle brakes down and the rider has to walk the rest of the way to work. The motorcycle was traveling at 45 mi/hr, and the rider walks as a speed of 6 mi/hr. The distance from home to work is 25 miles, and te total time of the trip was 2 hours, how far did the motorcycle go before it broke down?
- motorcycle went 1/3 hours 15 miles then onfoot 1 2/3 hours 10 miles from the equation 6x + 45(2 -- x) 25 giving x 5/3 1 2/3 for onfoot.
- Q: I am putting new pads on the front brakes of my ZRX1100. Got the new pads on one side but having little trouble with the second side pads. The calipers have 6 pistons, 3 on each side. I can get 3 on one side to retract far enough back but not on the other side far enough for new pads.Do I need to open bleeder valve on the caliper I am having problem with, or remove some brake fluid from reservoir on handlebars.
- Your on the right track, assuming its been topped up in the past, pushing the calipers back will push the fluid back. You need to remove a small amount of fluid some how. Roll a piece of kitchen roll up and soak up fluid in the master cylinder. As you say, you could use the bleed valve, if you wanted to drain /renew the brake fluid while your at it.
- Q: A motorcycle can become airborne by speeding over a steep hill. How far will travel? What happens if the rider applies the brakes while in the air?
- The distance that a motorcycle can travel upon leaving a ramp dependent on the following: 1. velocity at which it leaves the ramp 2. angle at which it leaves the ramp 3. air resistance Even it the rider applies the brakes while in the air, nothing will change the physics of the situation. The motorcycle will keep on going on its path until it touches the ground or lands on something.
- Q: engine braking do you roll of the throttle or do you keep the throttle steady while you shift down?
- Only thing I would add is when downshifting blipping the throttle a bit as you're letting out the clutch to match RPM's can smooth out the transition to the lower gear. Also you really want to make sure you have a feel for your bike and where your shift points are. Dropping into first from the high end of second could be not fun, like say in the middle of a sharp turn. You also want to be very aware of not double shifting, so say dropping two gears from third to first and then just dropping the clutch. It's not so great on your clutch or engine, and will likely result in a quick locking of the rear tire for a short period, which while when the bike is stood up is not so bad, in a turn could prove disastrous.
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Ceramic Brake Pads Duralast
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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