• Brake Pads for Toyota Yaris/Platz/Vios (04465-52070) System 1
  • Brake Pads for Toyota Yaris/Platz/Vios (04465-52070) System 2
Brake Pads for Toyota Yaris/Platz/Vios (04465-52070)

Brake Pads for Toyota Yaris/Platz/Vios (04465-52070)

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: Changed my motorcycles front brake pads,Had to push the piston back a little bit to get them to go back on the caliper (new pads had more meat) Then I pumped my brake a few times to get a good pressure now they are REALLY tightShould I just wear em down by riding with zero glide?Should I take the brakes off and manually push the pads back?Or would brake bleeding resolve this issue?
if bleeding doesn't work,remove the piston and clean it with emory cloth
Q: When I press my front brakes down the first cm or so doesnt do anything. Then I can feel the lever kind of jump down another cm or so and the brakes jerk a little bit. When I first got it, the brake lever and brakes were smooth all the way through? What do you think is wrong?Also when I shift gears it sounds kind of rough, not really clanky, just rough. Is that because I have a dry clutch system as opposed to a wet clutch?It is a 2005 Suzuki gs500f
Sounds like you have bubbles in your brake line. You need your brake fluid replaced and rebled. GS500s have wet clutches. When was the last time you changed your oil? Do you check your oil level often? when you check are you making sure the bike is straight up and down? Has it always sounded this way? This bike has a 6 speed constant mesh transmission which means all gears are always making contact with another gear so that will make a bit of noise from the friction.
Q: Any information on motorcycle statistics is helpful, same with cars, thanks!
Roughly the same as those you get when you compare horses to mass transit. To make an honest comparison of anything you have to only have one element on each aside of the equation. Adding variables screws up the math.
Q: I‘m wondering because they drive on the wrong side of the car and street over there, and their bicycles have the brake levers reversed.
Traffic has been using the left side of the road for at least 2000 years; it allowed horsemen to greet or defend against passing horsemen with their stronger, right hand. The change to using the right side is relatively recent, and probably due to larger horse-drawn wagon drivers sitting to the left of their multiple horses in order to control them with their stronger, right hand. Just as in cars now, the driver wants to be sat at the inside of the road rather than at the offside to better judge the clearance for passing vehicles. Some countries therefore switched to using the right side of the road, while others continued to use the left to avoid confusion (especially when they didn't share land borders with other countries, like the British Isles, and didn't have cross-border traffic to contend with). Just as in a car, even though the drivers position switches sides, the throttle is still the right-hand pedal, the brake in the middle and the clutch on the left. Like others have said, motorcycle controls have been standardised for some time also.
Q: for Stop the motorbike generally by applying all the handlebar lever break and foot pedal break. my question is -gt; if I applying handlebar and foot pedal both in same time when I going in very speed , is it dangerous ?
Non racers apply the rear brake first and then apply the front brake to scrub off excess speed. Racers apply both of the brakes at the same time and then use the brakes to control the traction of the motorcycle. You will find that the front brake is about 70% of your stopping power, but you do not just want to jam on either brake or lock either brake up. Apply the brakes with constantly building pressure until the motorcycle slows down and then slowly release the brakes as the motorcycle comes to a stop.
Q: im looking to do a suicide shift on my 2000 vulcan 1500, unfortunately a hydraulic foot clutch is almost a grand. can the rear brake master cylinder be used for the clutch or are the internals different?
I can't say for sure, but I'm wondering if the volume it displaces isn't enough to operate a clutch. While not the most attractive thing in the world, a frame mounted Bendix type master cylinder like those used on 1930-60's cars would since they were made for drum brakes. I know you can still get them for hot rod cars and the same thing is used for surge brakes on stock trailers.
Q: what will happen if i dont repair the warping disc?
The warped rotor is causing serious vibrations. These vibrations are resonating through out your vehicle including the rest of your brake parts Vibrations cause other parts to fracture and bolts and screws to come loose. So yes it could be serious and especially on a bike. Get it repaired before you hurt your self or cause an accident
Q: Electric Motorcycle restriction questions?
i think of you may desire to strike the notice scooter out of your wording on an identical time as you're thinking approximately this. in accordance to the Minnesota handbook it form of feels notably sparkling. After a speedy overview of Minnesota's regulation, it looks like something over 50cc is assessed as a motorbike and something 50cc and under is a motorized bicycle (Moped.) Scooters are the failings that have tiny autos and you stand on on an identical time as you trip. Please examine the link under. trip secure.
Q: I have bought 1 '78 Honda CB400T and everything was fine until next morning where the front disk brake locked up. I suspect that it might have to do something with temperature change as the previous owner kept the motorcycle in his heated garage and didn't take it out for quite time and when I brought it home and left it overnight on cold weather the disk got locked up. (I live in NYC, so the weather isn't that brutal though) It has been standing for a week now. I went today to bleed the brakes but nothing helped. Any suggestions?
Unbolt the caliper, remove the brake pads, make sure the piston is clean and smooth with no rust, pitting or brake dust so you don't damage the seal in the caliper a copper or brass wire brush and contact cleaner will work good for this- do not scratch or gouge the piston because it will damage the seal and leak there my be a rubber dust boot over the piston you can gently roll to back before you clean the piston. If the piston is pitted or scratched then the caliper need to be rebuilt and the piston replaced. Remove the master cylinder cap so the fluid can be pushed back into the reservoir when the piston is pushed in have some rags handy fluid my spill then use a C clamp or channellock pliers to push the piston back into the caliper. pull the brake lever a few times to to push the piston back out then push the piston back into the caliper do this a few times don't over pump the brakes or the piston may pop out of the caliper. If the piston moves smoothly you can reinstall the pads bolt the caliper back on, pump up the brakes and bleed the system.

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