• Brake Pads for Toyota Yaris/Platz/Vios (04465-52070) System 1
  • Brake Pads for Toyota Yaris/Platz/Vios (04465-52070) System 2
Brake Pads for Toyota Yaris/Platz/Vios (04465-52070)

Brake Pads for Toyota Yaris/Platz/Vios (04465-52070)

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q:I am trying to bleed my brakes, and I need to add fluid. My fluid is yellow, while the fluid already in the master cylinder/caliper is reddish.Does it matter if it is yellow? (The brake fluid is about 15 months old, and has been open for the same time. It is 'P' yellow)Is it yellow because it is a different brand, or does brake fluid change colors after it has come into contact with oxygen?It is DOT 4.
As long as it is the proper DOT rating for your application (DOT 4 is correct for most motorcycles), you'll be ok. Brake fluid does change color slightly overtime. Generally, brake fluid is clear/yellowish but a lot of companies are now putting a dye into their fluid so when you do a fluid flush, there is a visual indicator to show when all the fluid has been replaced. *EDIT* I just re-read your post. DO NOT use brake fluid if it is old or has been open for a long time. It will absorb moisture and you don't want that in your brake system, especially on a motorcycle. Go to the store and get a new bottle of DOT 4.
Q:Front brake works but rattling gets more common.What needs to be repaired or replaced? Any help appreciated.
So you got this high price extra that is to improve your gas mileage and give you so much more horsepower and now you find out it didn't give you any more power and with the engine light on your gas mileage is crap. So put your old air intake back on or punch a hole in the new one and put your MAF sensor in. It may work, or it may not.
Q:I am a car blind, intends to buy a motorcycle, give some advice!
Carburetor: carburetor with plunger and vacuum diaphragm type, now high-end four-stroke mostly vacuum die. Vacuum diaphragm carburetor can automatically adjust the intake air volume according to the change of the engine speed, so the fuel consumption is low, the slewing speed is smooth and the ride is comfortable. The latest technology of the vacuum diaphragm carburetor at the same time with multi-functional structure. Such as accelerating pump, inertia enrichment system, idle system, start enrichment system, heater and so on.
Q:Was riding the motorcycle and the wheel just locked up. I came to a skidding stop. It won‘t roll, won‘t go in to neutral or shift easily. Am I looking at a transmission or final drive problem?
something wrong in the drive shaft most likely. Have you kept up with the proper oil in that drive shaft? It only needs to be changed twice a year.
Q:I have a sukida sk 125-5 patriot sport model, and i seem to have a constant brake light? does anyone know why this is and how to fix it? the brakes all work as they should do, but the brake light is constantly on, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Yep, brake light switch. However, you might have one on the front brake, also.
Q:whats up guys ive been wanting to go to motorcycle mechanics institute for awhile now i have a passion for bikes and love working on them i wanted to go to motorcycle mechanics institute in Arizona but ive been reading and ive only seen bad reviews i want to eventually work at a shop then start up my own shop any ideas on what i should do thanks for the help
in the REAL world (on ships) zinc is the best because in the REAL world, coatings have defects (holes) and zinc protects despite such defects btw most paints are plastic (not thermo plastic, but solvent deposited plastic) most modern paints (not primers) consist of long chain organic chemicals
Q:I am getting a 03 Chevy Cavalier with warped rotors, and am wondering what it will cost to get this fixed.it has 130,000miles and this is the main thing that needs repair.
Rotors are $20-$30 each at the auto parts store. The disk pads are 20-40 bucks a pair. They are very easy to change and you can take it in and get it all done for under $150.00. If you know someone handy with cars, you can get it done for under $100.00. Wrapped rotors are not a big deal except the car shutters and vibrates when you stop. Its usually caused by the fact they are getting thin and the heat from normal stops caused them to wrap. when you take off your wheel, the rotor is loose and you remove two bolts and take off the caliber and the rotor just comes off. Its not even bolted on. So changing it isn't hard but you will probably want to check or change the disk pads while you have it apart. Look at a motorcycle front brake and its pretty much the same on a car.
Q:I am looking for some opinions on the aftermarket clutch and front brake handles sold on EBay.Specifically the ones from China and Taiwan. If you have used these handles what do you think about them.Do they fit properly? Will they last? Or are they just a piece of junk.
From what I have seen, they are pretty cheaply made. You can hold them in one hand and hold an original one in your other hand and feel the difference in quality. I'm sure there are some decent ones out there so you just have to look around.
Q:I have a motorcycle and i would love to make a career out of fixing and repairing them i would love to be a mechanic. Any schools around? The only one i know of is wyotech in long beach ca but the problem is i live in santa ana and what would i do if my bike broke down and i had no way to get to school? I prefer to go to a school close for if my bike broke down i would at least be able to bus it there cuz i work full time and dont live on my parents.
Motorcycle Classes Orange County
Q:I PUT A SET OF FRONT BRAKES ON MY MOTORCYCLE, IS IT NORMAL FOR THEM TO WHINE WHEN STOPPING?
This depends on a few factors. - Installation - Compound If they were installed and were not done properly it could be. However, if you upgraded your pads to a high metallic compound (popular with high performance pads) you will hear anything from a whining to a squeaking and sometimes metal contact sound at lower speeds. Brand new pads also have to sit themselves in and basically conform to the unique shape of your rotors. Every rotor has small grooves from the wear and tear of the pads and the rotor. So new pads take a little while to seat in before they conform to that shape. In the mean time things like fine dust can get in the grooves and cause squeaking. Try squirting water up by the pad and rotor to clean them off, let it try and go for a ride to see if it is any better. You could also have something like a small piece of cinder rock stuck in there which would cause it as well. Otherwise the other factor to look at will be to make sure that the brakes were installed properly. If they seem to stop normal, you see no strange grooves and the pad is sitting flush with your rotor then I would not assume that it is a concern. It sounds far more likely you went to a high performance pad, or, are suffering from a fine dust and brake pad wear in period. There are also non-queak compounds you can buy from performance shops to help with the squeaking if it is a high performance pad. Sometimes it doesn't eliminate it, but helps. (Only helps if that is the case)

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