Automatic Jet Pump with High Quality (AUJET100M)

Automatic Jet Pump with High Quality (AUJET100M)

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 2100 unit/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:AUJET100M

Performance:Automatic Pump

Start Up:Electric Pump

Media:Water Pump

Application:Clarified Water Pump

Type:Blade Pump

Material:Cast Iron

Power:Electric

Structure:Single-stage Pump

Theory:Jet Pump

Assembly:Liquid Pumps

Industry:Household Pump

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Export Standard Carton

Standard:CE, SGS

Production Capacity:25000PCS/Year

Product Description

Automatic Jet Pump

Application
For water supply from wells or reservoirs.
For domestic use. For civil and industrial applications.
For garden use and irrigation
Operating Conditions
Maximum fluid temperature up to +60º C
Maximum ambient temperature up to +40º C
Maximum sand content: 0.25%
Total suction lift up to 8 m.
Continous duty
Motor and Pump
Rewindable motor
Three-phase: 380V-415V, Single-phase: 220V-240
Insulation: Class B
Protection: IP44
Structural Characteristics
Pump body: Cast iron
Front cover: Cast iron
Diffuser: Noryl
Impeller: Brass/Plastic/PPO
Mechanical seal: Ceramic and graphite
Shaft: 45# steel/stainless steel
Motor case: Aluminum
Tank: 24l(Cast iron/ SS)
Flexible hose: ½ "x1"
Pressure gauge: 7bar(100psi)
Cable: 1.5meters
Warranty: 1 year
(according to our general sales conditions)

TYPE	Power		H.max(m)	Q.max(L/min)	Size(inch)	S.Head(m)
TYPE	kW	HP	H.max(m)	Q.max(L/min)	Size(inch)	S.Head(m)
AUJET60M	0.37	0.55	35	40	1"X1"	8
AUJET80M	0.55	0.75	44	50	1"X1"	8
AUJET100M	0.75	1	48	60	1"X1"	8

Q: Suppose the liquid temperature range for the water pump is -20 .. 90 °C. However it should be worked under liquid temperature upto 180 °C. For this, what has to to be done?: (edited) The physical size of the pumping arrangement was not described. I assume that the pump has all metallic components because of the high (194 F) 90degC design operating temperature. There may be some problem with an elastomeric bellows in a mechanical seal at the 180degC (356F) temperature. Other than that, there should be no problem with the temperatures as far as the pump is concerned. There may be a need for shaft cooling to protect the standard electric motor and possibly the flexible drive coupling arrangement. (edit) Depending on the physical size, rotating speed and drive arrangement, a special coupling set-up may be needed to accommodate any potentially wide swing in operating temperatures. From ambient to 180degC there will be about a 160C (288F) variation. The liquid will be either a salt or a glycol brine solution for freeze protection at the lower temperatures. (edit) That same concentration will provide some elevation of the boiling temperature and therefore a reduction of the pressure of the water solution needed to prevent boiling. ( 130 psig is the saturation pressure of plain water at that elevated temperature.) This can be found on the charts provided by the glycol suppliers for the various glycol and salt solution characteristics. To prevent cavitation you may need to pressurize the suction. If the proposed pressure of the system is already above the vapor pressure of the solution at that maximum temperature, you may already be OK. A motor with high temperature windings may be considered.

Q: Do it yourself steps: The okorder You don't want to leave anything out and certainly don't want to trust a stranger on Yahoo Answers! Good luck!

Q: Mercedes 2000 ml 320. I changed radiator and water pump now car only runs half as worm than it used to. So now heat blows cold to little warm depending on how cold out side: If there is an air pocket in the system you will not get hot heat from the climate control system. If the heater worked OK before you replaced the water pump it's probably a stubborn air pocket. You need to raise the front of the car a good 12 and then rune the motor for 20 minutes with the radiator and reservoir caps removed. Have the climate control set to the hottest setting with the blower turned off or on low speed. Top up the coolant as the air bubbles purge. The heat coming out of the vents should be hot at idle, if it only gets hot when you rev the motor you still have an air pocket. Then try revving the motor up and down to 2,500 rpm and squeeze the upper radiator hose at the same time to get the air pocket to purge. If you can't get the air out you will need an expensive Airlift vacuum fill tool for the cooling system. Some vehicles such as Infiniti's will not purge the air with out using the Aitlift brand fill tool.

Q: The water pump was just put on by the previous owner! It was in water! So what could cause this to happen? Is it bad? Should I wait for water to pump up to it? Or should I just put a new one on?: Read my answer from your other question !

Q: I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.): ditto to magic

Q: I have some black RTV silicone that I got with a gasket for my oil pan. Can I use some on a gasket for a water pump instead of regular sealant or is there a particular type I need? If there is a certain or preferred type please give me a link to it at like autozone or something, thanks!: Black Gasket Sealant

Q: My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene: Have you checked the valve that shuts off the coolant when the heater is not required? It, or the pipes/ hoses to it, may be blocked, or the valve inoperative. I'd bet the coolant is not being allowed to circulate through the core by something. Backflushing doesn't guarantee the core isn't gunked up, either.

Q: A tank is full of water. Find the work W required to pump the water out of the spout. (Use 9.8 for g and 3.14 for pi . Round your answer to three significant digits.)The tank is a spherical shape has a radius r= 6m and a spout height of h=2m.I really dont know how to start this problem correctly. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!: The pump will not have to work until the water drains by gravity to the level of the spout. Then, Work = Weight of water * Height of lift Find the distance, d, of the center of mass for the remaining water in the bottom 2 m of the sphere. The height of lift will then be 2m - d. The hardest part is finding the distance d to the center of mass. I don't remember how to do that.

Q: We still have water, but it keeps constantly running, and won't stop. The pump itself got warm/hot, and we're afraid that it's going to get ruined or blow up or something. We turned it off for about 30 minutes, then back on to bottle up some water. It's the middle of a snowstorm, and a horrible time for a water pump to stop working, help please!! Any suggestions and fixes, please let me know. Thanks!!! :): You did not say if you had a submersible well pump or water jet. I am assuming that if you can feel the pump building heat it is of the jet variety. If the pump keeps running it is because the pressure switch is bad or because there is not enough water coming from the well to allow the pump to build shut off pressure. Try manually shutting off the pump for several hours and then switch it back on. If it shuts off on its own then you have a low water supply problem and may need a deeper well. If it does not shut off and you have good water pressure, then shut off the pump and turn off the electrical breaker and remove the pressure switch by disconnecting the wires and screwing the pressure switch off. Inspect the small water line to the switch for blockage from sediment or corrosion. If it is blocked you may get lucky and only have to clear out the line and screw things back together. If you are not lucky, replace the water shut off switch with a new one and you should be good to go. If you still do not have water, the intake screen to the pump could be plugged up and will have to be cleaned.which involves pulling the pipe from the well.

Q: What's the submersible pump?: Zhengzhou sea diving pump. Deep well submersible pump is a fountain, drinking water transportation, irrigation, hot springs, high-rise transport facilities, etc., deep well submersible pump excellent performance, so widely used in various fields.

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