• Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Land Cruiser/Prado 04466-60060 System 1
  • Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Land Cruiser/Prado 04466-60060 System 2
Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Land Cruiser/Prado 04466-60060

Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Land Cruiser/Prado 04466-60060

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: Which brand of motorcycle brakes?
Brakes who can use, you want to be equipped with a bike can
Q: I‘m new to ridding and have only owned a motorcycle for over a month now and been using a combination of engine braking and normal braking. I feel more comfortable normal braking and just dropping a gear or 2 if i suddenly need to pick up speed. But what is mechanically better for a motorcycle engine braking or regular braking? Which is better in the long run? Is it bad for the engine? because I would rather just buy brake pads more often if that‘s the case.P.S. The topic is about riding an engine that is already way past the break in point.
if you maintain the bike properly.oil changes etc bike will last 100,000 miles more for a bigger bike the correct way to slow down is to change gears down as you slow using the engine the brakes in unison that way you are always in the correct gear for the speed your doing if this wears the brake pads. or the clutch plates. or the engine a little more than just grabbing clutch brake changing down multiple gears to guess what the engine revs speed should be big Farking deal. you may even get an extra 5,000 miles out of the engine but getting it wrong once could cost you a lot more people been riding bikes for a lot of years they say change down use engine braking your front rear brakes Im guessing they know what there talking about on the point of braking. in an emergency stop. the front brake is the only one that will stop you in a hurry. I practice stopping using only the front brake. I can just about stand the bike on the front wheel if the rear wheel isn't touching the ground much engine braking rear brake ain't going to help stop
Q: sometimes my husband‘s motorcycle gets hung up in curves and then only wants to go straight. it then cannot be controlled. the last time it happened, he had to slam on both brakes and skid to a stop. does anyone know why the bike does this? does anyone know how to prevent this from happening? he has a Harley Davidson 883
I have a couple questions. Were you or are you on the back when this happens? If so maybe you aren't leaning into the turn with him. This will definitely cause the bike to go straight. If this is happening sometimes and he is the only one on the bike when this happens then he could be doing something wrong sometimes. He may have a bad wheel bearing (I'm thinking front but raise the bike off the ground and check both) or loose wheel or the wheels aren't aligned. Check the front forks to make sure neither tube is loose in the triple tree clamps and the tubes are even height with each other. And check the swing arm too to make sure there is no slop side to side. Could be loose or a bad bearing again. Check to make sure the rear shocks are secure especially at the bottom where they attach to the swing arm. If you don't find a problem in either of these places I'd have to say your husband is doing something wrong. Ask yourself is this happening in left or right hand turns or both. When does it happen most often? Does it happen in hard tight turns or long sweepers? Does it happen with you on the back or when he's alone or both? Take your time , be cautious, think and look and you'll get it figured out. Good Luck
Q: I am trying to bleed my brakes, and I need to add fluid. My fluid is yellow, while the fluid already in the master cylinder/caliper is reddish.Does it matter if it is yellow? (The brake fluid is about 15 months old, and has been open for the same time. It is 'P' yellow)Is it yellow because it is a different brand, or does brake fluid change colors after it has come into contact with oxygen?It is DOT 4.
New brake fluid is CLEAR. Not yellow, not yellow-ish, and definitely not red. It's a good thing you're changing it. Moisture is the enemy of brake fluid, and you should only use a FRESH, unopened bottle every time. An opened bottle will attract moisture, even with the cap on, and brake fluid turns yellow when it's going south. Get some new fluid. Also keep in mind that DOT 4 and DOT 5 are NOT interchangeable. DOT 5 is pure silicon fluid, and will not work in a brake system designed for DOT 3 or 4.
Q: How do they compare (sport bikes)? Same as a normal car, like a supercar? Or better than both?
Motorcycle Braking Distance
Q: How is the motorcycle maintenance?
Is a new car, then more than a thousand kilometers of oil for a time, intake of cotton remember that often clear it
Q: a 70s or early 80s song tha starts with motorcycle speeding up and brakes?
Love is the Drug - Roxy Music? edit Burn Rubber on Me - The Gap Band
Q: KZ 440 disk brake.
On an old bike like that? Likely you need to rebuild the brakes. May need new seals in the master cylinder. New brake lines, fresh brake fluid, possibly a caliper rebuild, etc. You could try fresh brake fluid and bleeding the brakes to get all the air out and see if that fixes it on the cheap - for a while.
Q: There is a brakes on the motorcycle
If the mileage is not more than 30,000 km is no need to change the new, squeaky because the brake disc and brake pads between the tiny dust particles, a lot of time is the pressure of the road when the water muddy muddy water splash into the brake system , The sound more common in the motorcycle on the hollow brake discs, most of the motorcycle brake discs have such a voice!

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