Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Corolla 04465-20540

Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Corolla 04465-20540

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers!

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series.

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands.

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world.

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products.

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi.

5> We can produce as your samples.

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads.

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Corolla 04465-20540

Q: So I‘m thinking of buying this to practice on as I will be a new rider very soon ( and $1000 seems like a really low price for what I‘ve found). It‘s running good and only has 11,000 miles on it. The owner posted that it‘s a 2007 Lifan 250cc. So I tried looking up the specs to get some info on the bike but I couldn‘t seem to find anything So I‘m hoping that one of you guys can help me out and post a link to a website with details on it. Thanks in advance!: Lifan is one of the mainland Chinese manufacturers. The products have decent performance when new, good price--but the reliability and parts availability is not known to be best features. Outside of China the parts and mechanical support is very 'IFFY'- IF you can find the parts or the manual. IF you can do the work yourself then maybe it won't be a bad deal IF you can find the parts. Seattle and Vancouver area supposed to have a distributor for Lifan and some other names, UK supposed to have a similar warehouse, distributor for many but not all parts about half way between London and Birmingham. Taiwan and S. Korea, Singapore have some support for Chinese products- enough trade and fast enough to get the parts from southern China stocks. Locally the Mainland Chinese scooters and cycles are considered a one season use to learn to ride and minor wrench cheap deals- the local selling shop has a replace defective whole scooter 30 days warrantee- about like Harbor Freight for small engines. Most of the scooters run good enough for the season, the few early use 'defects' are simply swapped and the defect sent back for dealer stock replacement with a very few reconditioned sale specials later in season. The 'Honda Clone' engine serviceable at the Honda Dealer advertisements don't seem to note which Honda dealer does that- locally they won't touch them, won't say what parts may interchange and the mechs after work will say the parts interchange is a mess legally and mechanicaly- the few tradeins are usually sent to auction or a scooter shop that does try to fix them in a month instead of 3 to 5 days as a Taiwan make Kymco has for parts supply. Unless you have a local dealer with the parts network available- I wouldn't recommend it. I do know of a guy that has worked on some of them- he used to have a shop/dealership- and he says most of them can be fixed after he gets most of parts but that was a hassle even when he had dealership. They are getting better.

Q: like. how different are the two. pros and cons?: Many points have already been addressed, but one major difference is how you steer them. You steer a bicycle by leaning then steering into the lean most of the time. A motorcycle / scooter is steered by pressing the handlebar end in the direction you wish to go downward and slightly forward. Then lean with the motorcycle or scooter. Say you want to make a left turn: you'll press the handlebar on the left side according to how much you want to turn. Press the other side and you'll come back to vertical and a straight line. Doing a quick, light shove on each bar in turn will give you a controlled evasive maneuver. Don't shove hard unless you need to for an emergency. Start easy and slow and you'll get the hang of it. Budd

Q: I have a motorcycle made by Bajaj.It‘s 3 months old and run 2500 kilometers.I handle it gently and have never dropped or crashed it.Two days back, the bike developed handling problems at the front end.The handle bars feels heavy and refuses to turn.It‘s as if the handle is welded to the chassis.The problem is at it‘s worst between speeds of 10-20 km/hr.The bike is also pulling to either sides when grabbing the front brake.Negotiating roundabouts has become risky.The bike just wants to go straight rather than turning and i have to muscle it back to my correct path.It was not like this just a week ago.What could be the problem?.The air pressure on both tyres are perfect.The front disks are not dragging either.Is it something related to forks or bearings?.Do the bearings get tight automatically?.: Check to see if the forks are bent. This sounds like a mountain bike I had as a kid. I bent the forks so far, it changed the caster of the steering and it wouldn't turn.

Q: So I know that braking when cornering on a bike should be avoided as it can result low/high sides. But with these new supersports offering ABS and traction control would it prevent you from crashing if you brake in a corner?: No they only drive the front wheels. Feathering can be caused by warn shocks/struts or by alignment problems

Q: Kinmen and Matsu motorcycle did not brake how the matter: I do not know the disc brake or drum brake, if it is disc brake, check the brake pump is damaged, whether the lack of brake oil, brake system is leaky oil, brake pads are too large or improper installation. If it is drum brake, check the brake shoe is excessive wear, brake cable is broken or improper adjustment and so on.

Q: I‘m looking for the average price ranged for a brake adjustment/replacement for a 03 suzuki gsxr 750: GSXR 750's are designed, like each motorcycles, to end on the front brakes – it is the reason there are 2 extensive discs on the front and a tiny one on the returned so the quantity of extremely use in anger (extremely than utilising it for the duration of a hill-start up) ought to be low, then returned wanting alternative at 10,000 km (6200 miles) isn't that undesirable. particularly why you will possibly choose to fasten up the returned is previous me yet doing that is going to placed on the rear brake pads way swifter. the key clarification for brake fade is the fluid boiling because it reaches those temperatures it compresses extra (the extra it could compress, the fewer hydraulic rigidity gets to the pistons interior the caliper); the key clarification for fluid boiling is repeated heavy use, there's a warped rear disc that's inflicting warmth (sarcastically probable brought about via warmth from the pads); if warmth isn't the subject a warped disc will additionally push the pistons returned into the caliper – once you come back to apply it you will ought to depress the lever numerous situations to get rigidity up – it is not brake fade however the rear disc desires to get replaced. to lessen the probabilities of it occurring at an important 2nd base your braking around the front brake and don't ignore engine braking.

Q: I only know that the mountain car brakes have disc brakes and v brake two.: Simply say it, V brake is the advantage of light, the disadvantage is affected by the weather and various conditions affect the braking effect; disc brake is the advantage of good brake feel, easier to control the intensity of the shortcomings of a long time when the brake is not good Affect the brake effect, disc brake sub-disc and oil dish, disc feel better than oil dish

Q: Okay, the other day I was washing my rims on my Gixxer. While using the hose, I think I may have wet the rear brakes (pads n pedal). About an hour later, I took it on the interstate. After about 15 minutes of riding I realized my rear brakes weren't working at all. I got to my destination and tried to pump them and nothing. About a half hour later I tried again and they worked. Did this happen because I wet them while washing my bike or is there something else wrong with them? If there is something wrong with them, then how did they all of a sudden start working?: Yes, it's because they were wet. Disc brakes can lose their effectiveness when wet. There is a difference between riding in the rain, and hosing the brakes. Pumping the pedal while still will not dry them, they need to be moving for the water to be wiped off. This happens very quickly while riding. I always check brake action after a wash. A quick check is all it takes to dry them.

Q: Well I‘m 14 but wanted to start thinking what type of vehicle I wanted when I turn 16 and I‘m not a car guy--I don‘t dream about them, I don‘t think about them, I just don‘t much care. But I was thinking of trying to get a motorcycle to save gas (seriously, close to 100 mpg ?!?! that is insane!). But I‘ve always been fearful of motorcycles cause they just look more dangerous (I‘m sure flying off motorcycles in GTA doesn‘t help at all lol): Riding a motorcycle isn't dangerous . crashing one is. So its largely on you the rider to prepare yourself skill wise to avoid accidents, and gear wise to protect your body if you do meet pavement. First thing you should do is look into taking the MSF beginners course in your area to build a really strong, educated foundation for how to operate a motorcycle. There are a lot of little things you don't want to try and figure out as you ride. They will teach you as well how to brake effectively and manuver at slow speeds. This is important because if you can handle a bike a slow speeds when the gyroscopic force holding up the bike is weakest, then you an handle it at higher speeds for sure. Also when you gear up, always wear full gear and the best you can afford. Trust me it, its much cheaper than a stay at the hospital. You can't avoid drivers that do stupid things but you can prepare yourself to deal with them.

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