hydraulic disc brake for Mazda Family oem:HB00-33-25XL1

hydraulic disc brake for Mazda Family oem:HB00-33-25XL1 System 1

hydraulic disc brake for Mazda Family oem:HB00-33-25XL1 System 2

hydraulic disc brake for Mazda Family oem:HB00-33-25XL1

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Certification:ECE

Type:Brake Discs

Material:Non-Asbestos

Position:Front

Export Markets:Global

Product Description

Brake disc
Standard: E-MARK
Origin: China
Features:
1) Hardness: 180-240HB
2) Long service life
3) 100% crucial dimension inspection
4) 100% qualification
5) Low noise
Standard for casting is G3000. Standard for machining is SAE-J431.
We use AIMCO# and OEM# and right now we have more than 1, 900 items that can be supplied to the aftermarket

AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#
3102	3438	5361	5588	8978	31163	31353
3104	3441	5362	5590	8979	31164	31354
3106	3444	5364	5593	8980	31165	31355
3107	3445	5365	5594	8981	31166	31356
3108	3446	5366	5595	8983	31168	31357
3110	3451	5367	5596	8984	31169	31358
3111	3452	5368	5598	8985	31170	31359
3112	3455	5370	5599	8986	31172	31360
3114	3457	5371	5601	8987	31173	31361
3116	3458	5372	5606	8988	31174	31362
3117	3459	5373	5607	8989	31175	31363
3118	3460	5374	5610	8990	31176	31364
3120	3462	5375	5614	8991	31177	31365
3122	3464	5376	5617	8992	31178	31366
3123	3466	5377	5618	8993	31179	31367
3124	3467	5378	5703	8994	31181	31368
3125	3468	5379	5704	8995	31182	31369
3126	3469	5381	5712	8996	31184	31370
3130	3470	5382	8101	8997	31185	31371
3132	3471	5383	8105	8998	31186	31372
3133	3472	5386	8106	8999	31188	31373
3134	3477	5387	8108	31000	31189	31374
3136	3479	5388	8109	31001	31192	31375
3137	3480	5389	8124	31002	31193	31376
3138	3482	5393	8141	31003	31197	31377
3140	3483	5394	8146	31004	31198	31378
3141	3485	5395	8147	31005	31199	31379
3146	3487	5396	8160	31006	31201	31380
3150	3488	5397	8163	31007	31202	31381
3151	3489	5398	8171	31008	31203	31382
3152	3497	5399	8173	31009	31204	31383
3153	3498	5401	8179	31010	31205	31384
3154	3502	5404	8190	31011	31208	31385

hydraulic disc brake for Mazda Family oem:HB00-33-25XL1

Q: If the motorcycle did not brake, how to stop?: Manual file forced to slow down the file to stop it. Automatic file can only be completely without fuel to stop the car slowly.

Q: My mom said i can have her motorcycle (a Honda CB-1 450) if i get it running again out of my own pocket. It has been sitting for a couple years and she never drained the fuel out of it so it‘s probably gunna need carb work and all that but I know that before it sat the bike ran perfectly so the only problems should be a result of it sitting . I would like to avoid taking it into a shop because of the cost but what do you think It will take to get it running. Also can someone tell me how to drain the brake fluid? The front brakes locked up and i had to take it off the wheel to move the bike.: Cool bike. I parted one out a year or so ago. I would take the brake line right off the front caliper (don't lose the little washers on both side of the bolt). Remove the brake pads from the caliper and try and compress the piston with a c-clamp. If it moves in the caliper is fine. If it doesn't move, it will need a rebuild or replacement. If it is fine, the problem is more than likely in your mastercylinder on the handlebars. You will need to remove that entirely from the bike and take it apart on the bench, clean out everything and put back together. It may need a rebuild kit depending on the condition of the parts (dry rotting, etc.). The carbs should be removed entirely. Torn down completely. Keep the internal parts of each carb in the bowl for that carb. Go to NAPA and pick up a gallon can of carb cleaner. This is not a spray bottle (but pick up a few of those also, Walmart sells em cheap for under 2 bucks a can). The stuff NAPA makes is heavy duty, don't get it on your hands. Be sure that all gaskets and rubber parts are removed from the carbs. Anything rubber including any black plastic floats (I think yours are brass) set aside and clean with the spray bottles. Soak everything in the gallon can, just set them right in. Let them soak 1-2 nights depending on how bad they are. Take them out and use the spray bottles to rinse all the parts. If you have a compressor, blow air through all of the passages. Than reassemble the carbs. I would recommend picking up a book for the bike as well. Find a Haynes or Clymer manual on OKorder. Not a bad little bike, good luck with it.

Q: I ve never been into motorcycles,or even ridden one but I recently inherited one and have been warming up to the idea of riding it. Although I have a new found interest in motorcycles i m still a little skeptical about riding one. Is all the hype about motorcycles being death traps true? Or is it just as safe as riding a car if done carefully? I know anything is possible but getting some advice from real motorcycle riders would help me out. The bike is a 1974 Honda cb550 and has 50 horsepower. Also, i m in the Los Angeles area if that makes a difference. I ve never ridden a motorcycle, but I for sure plan on getting lessons, protective gear, etc.: I've been riding since the Johnson administration (that's Lyndon Johnson, not Andrew). I had one serious accident back in 1971, and it taught me to be paranoid of idiots in cars--not to assume they see me, not to assume what they're going to do, just stay out of their way. And that has kept me safe all these years! Statistically you are more likely to get in an accident per mile traveled on a bike than in a car. And of course when you do the consequences are more severe. But, well first of all, I think young guys on hot sportbikes skew the statistics. Secondly, something like half of all motorcycle accidents in involve alcohol or drugs, or some other totally controllable factor. Look at 'motorcycle fails' on YouTube. You'll see that in about 70-80% of accidents it's the motorcyclist who did something wrong, and usually something really stupid! Take the MSF course (Motorcycle Safety Foundation--you find them through the DMV). They don't teach you to ride, they teach you some important safety habits to keep you relatively safe while you learn. If you ride safely, not full-throttle all the time, if you don't take stupid chances and do wheelies and stunts, you're already a lot safer!

Q: I can not buy half a year after the brake wheeled rear wheel (after a round of rotation once, I think), many times to the maintenance station to check the maintenance and replacement of the rear three bearings, the problem is temporarily resolved. Three days after the emergence of the above situation, once again to the maintenance station maintenance, after debugging, the situation some improved (Pine brake, but not brake car, after several debugging without cure). The staff said that there may be the locomotive rear wheel drum is not round to the (why did not the initial ring?), The problem is not resolved. I feel my car rear wheel is this: the brake tightened, and can be in the 30 yards a meter brake car, rear wheel, but do not go when the empty push do not go, the rear does not turn, like in the brakes. Brakes loose, in addition to 4 meters brake car, the other situation is tight and tight situation is the opposite, I do not know what is the reason? Please brothers urged, I would like to thank you!: Please answer downstairs, the current issue of this I still did not drop!

Q: I like the overall appearance of the Yamaha R6 and R1. This would be my first bike. I am a 30 year old female. I checked out insurance for the R1 and it is pretty high. As for the R6 it is very reasonable. I don‘t want to purchase the R6 and be disappointed in the performance, wishing I should have bought the R1.I drive an subaru STI and a built mustang. I love the power. I love the competition with guys as well. I think a girl on an R1 is way cooler than a girl on an R6. Anyway, will I be disappointed with the R6 or is it a great bike and I am just making too big of a deal out of this?As you can tell I love the R1 but it‘s just the insurance:(By the way.please don‘t be mean to me and please don‘t give me other option like Honda‘s or Suzuki‘s. My heart is set on Yamaha.Thanks!!: the words first bike say it all , buy an R1 and youll be dead in a week if your not experienced this is a full on racing machine id say if its your first a 600 is also too fast your looking at plus of 155 mph with deadly acceleration and yes awesome handling this isnt like a car the speed is much faster than a subaru in acceleration so take some care about the machine you choose its not like the old days when bikes just went about 130 for 750cc they have evolved a lot since the 80's, my advice as a motorcyclist of 26 years and motorcycle engineer is go for a 400 cc machine if its your first bike

Q: is it the same principle as a scooter with a semi-automatic transmission. In other words is it shifted electronically or manually as you would with a traditional clutch ?: The Hondamatic motorcycles (CB400 and CB750) had a two-speed semi-auto transmission with a conventional foot-operated shift lever. You shifted when you chose, and there was no clutch lever. The front brake had a locking mechanism on the lever, so that it could be used as a parking brake. The bikes could move off from a stop in either gear (just twist the throttle), but were especially slow to accelerate in 2nd.

Q: I was driving my motorcycle yesterday a car cut me off I hit my brakes went into a fishtails then flipped over bike two times I was ok I went home now next day I have severe pain in my rib area when I lift my arm it hurts or even breath heavy if I move I‘m out of breath fast what should I do: Go to the hospital and get checked out.

Q: I need to get a motorcycle inspected, in MD? How strict is it?: either , air or hydralilc shocks and you need to find a shop that has them

Q: How to drive a motorcycle (bike)?I know the basics of motorcycle driving, but I need some details explanation. When we shifting the gear, how to use clutch and throttle. Please help me: Generally to move of, you runt the motorcycle on and a green light should come on. Start the engine. Raise the kick stand. Hold on the front brake. pull in the clutch, push the gear selector down. SLOWLY release the clutch at the same time and amount is twist the throttle, and when you feel the bike straining to go, release the front brake. To Increase speed, twist the throttle further back. To change UP a gear, release the throttle at the same time as pulling in the clutch, and flick UP the gear selector.

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